glass bed over existing glass bedding?

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1858rem

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i just did my very first glass bedding job on my 788, it went ok...but not great. about 30 seconds before i set the barreled action into the stock i realized "oh crap i forgot to antistickstuff the inside of the opening for the clip, i had play dough in all the stocks holes, and the small ones in the steel but totally missed the biggest hole in the action:banghead:! so i put some release agent inside the clips opening or bottom side of the action whatever thats called(sorry not up to..... terms.. with my...terminology... yet) and as i was letting the release agent dry i saw all the acraglas flow into the middle so i decided i had too much and scraped most onto the inside walls and scooped some back out, then decided there was too much in the recoil lug hole so i scooped some more out and ended up with a 3/4 of the way(height wise) bedded stock in the end:(

the good part!
- the barreled action does not move side to side now(was previously minor, about 16th inch collectively between both directions)!!

im mostly wondering if i can put a second coat of acraglas ontop of the first coat to make the job look a lot cleaner? if so what do i do to prep for a second coat? do i wait three days for the first coat to fully cure?
 
I would think that as long as you can scratch the current coat enough to create a mechanical bond between the two you would be ok. Much better would be to take off at least 1/16" on all surfaces and then re-bed it. This too would be to make sure that you have removed all traces of any release agent.
 
Riss has the right idea - roughen up the existing glass so you can get a mechanical bond, and then DEGREASE the existing glass with something like denatured alcohol and a toothbrush. You have to remove any release agent that may be on the surface of the glass.
 
Maybe even get a dremel with a small round cutter (ball).

Scratch the existing up, so the cuts are wider underneath than on the surface. That way, the second coat will really embed into the first coat. Make sure you kind of work the second coat into the new crevices you have created.

Also, like others mentioned, scratch up the surface of the existing real good and make sure you have removed any and all release agent!
 
I would wait until the time it says it takes to dry. If sandpaper is causing it to gum up or kind of clog the coarse-grit sandpaper, then I would wait another day.

What's a day if you are doing it right this time?
 
I don't know what it's called. I only ever bedded one rifle and it came out perfectly the first time.

I remember that it was important to dig in fairly deep with the dremel in various locations where the bedding will go and be sure to use plenty of the release agent.

Make sure there are no places that wrap around where, once dried, it will be nearly impossible to remove the barrel/action from the stock due to bedding material holding it in place, because in any places like that, the bedding will most likely break off.

My 22-250 pulls like 3/8" groups at 200 yards with the receiver bedded out to about 1/2" of the barrel (chamber), then it stops. The rest of the barrel is free-floating.

I do remember masking the barrel with an even layer of masking tape then carefully scribing a line with a high-quality compass to carefully scribe the lines on each side of the barrrel into the top of the stock where I wanted to remove stock (I used the pencil against the barrel and used the compass pin point to make a real fine line on the top of the wood stock -- parallel to the barrel, and under and around the barrel at the forend).

I then used a piece of wooden handle, or dowel that is the proper diameter and used real coarse sandpaper (40 or 60 grit) and kept going back and forth, taking away stock under and on each side of the barrel until I took away the wood out to the sharp line I had created -- which was about a 3/32" space between the barrel and stock. You might find that your thumb works as good or better than a dowel or round piece of wood, as you have more control which way to push the hardest to remove the wood just the way you want to to go out and meet the scribed line. You do want to dust it all off, then try the barrel several times to be sure it is all going as planned. When sanding, masking tape applied just along the scribed line might help for protection, just in case you should slip with the sandpaper.

The real test, of course is that you can run a dollar bill between the barrel and the stock all the way back to the receiver without it catching on any high spots that may be hidden under the barrel. I would rather take a bit too much wood off than not enough. On mine, I can easily run two bills together all the way back to the bedding.
 
Last edited:
Don't the call that a "skim" coat/bedding.
Click to expand...

Exactly.

When I skim coat. Usually after a barrel change out, I use a Dremel to remove about a 1/16 or so of the top of the existing bedding.

I only use Devcon aluminim liquid or putty.
 
Anyone here ever repainted a car?

What do you do first? You wash the snot out of it to get the old wax, grease, oil off the surfaces. Otherwise you just grind it into the paint as you prep the surface (sand) for the new stuff.

Bedding is no different (worse actually) due to the release agents used. Scrub that bedding with a tub of hot soapy water and finish up with some Acetone on a rag before you go scuffing anything.

Done properly, the result should look something like this:

beddingII.gif

MyPalmariflebedding.gif

Good luck.

Chad
 
I always start with uninletted blanks and I charge $1,000.00 to stock a rifle. That gets it inletted, bedded, cleaned up, all the peripherals, and the paint/finish.
 
Wow, in fact DOUBLE WOW!

Now, that is impressive! That certainly puts the one I did (only one) to shame!:uhoh:

All I can say for mine is it is functional!

LOL
 
If it were me I'd Dremel out most of the original bedding. Epoxy bedding is not very strong at all where it's thin. You can have chipping or flaking problems when it's thin IME. It only takes about 5 minutes with a Dremel to hog out most of the old bedding. I've tried skimcoating and wasn't happy with the results. It actually took longer to prep the old bedding for a thin skim coat than it does to just hog it out and start over.
 
LongRifles, Inc,

i noticed in your top picture the "gap" (don't know what it is called) is very similar (or it may actually be) to the one on my model 11 savage. I have bedded one gun, and it turned out successful i guess you could say. Any way the point being when i bed the savage should i feel the "gap with bedding material and let the tab on my action push out excess or should i leave the gap empty. Thanks
 
When I did my Savage, I had that gap to which you are referring opened up with the Dremel, so the gap was filled with bedding. That, I believe is referred to a recoil lug. I think the trick is to not actually fill that gap completely, but enough that some will ooze out. If you fill that gap completely, you will have a lot of oozing bedding to clean up.
 
Gap?

Ya' lost me buddy. There are two "gaps" in my bedding jobs and they are both engineered and carefully controlled to come out a certain way. Neither are visible without the action installed and even then you have to know what you are looking for to notice it.

Maybe copy/paste the photo into paint and draw some arrows so I know what your talking about.

Chad

PS.

Here's assembled and what the bottoms look like:

MorePALMA.gif

DSC_0099.gif

Floorinletwood.gif

floormetalfitting.gif
 
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