Apocalypse-Now
Member
I'd tell you if you had asked in a less insulting manner
Questioning people's honesty is generally considered rude.
Glock guiderod question...
- Thread starter TheProf
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I'd tell you if you had asked in a less insulting manner
Questioning people's honesty is generally considered rude.
Apocalypse-Now
Member
luckily what you think doesn't matter
so you really have no clue what they cost? .........and you're accusing me of blowing smoke? LMAO
Apocalypse-Now
Member
reaper4206969 said:
lol
the rods are metal on my g29 and g26. the end cap is plastic though.
recoil spring
I change out my recoil spring about every 3 to 5 K rounds on my G23 and 32.
A simple test to see if they are good to use or should be replaced is this.
Unload and verify 12 times the gun is empty. OK maybe just a couple times.
Dry fire the weapon holding the trigger to the rear.
Turn muzzle up. Reset the system by drawing the slide back about 1/2" while still holding trigger to rear.
As slowly as you can, ease the slide forward ( muzzle still up, trigger still depressed).
The slide will generally stop short of the fully forward position.
Start rotating the pistol to horizontal.
The slide should fully engage before horizontal to indicate it is still functional.
This info is regurgitated from a guy who used to instruct at a fairly well known school in Az.
I change out my recoil spring about every 3 to 5 K rounds on my G23 and 32.
A simple test to see if they are good to use or should be replaced is this.
Unload and verify 12 times the gun is empty. OK maybe just a couple times.
Dry fire the weapon holding the trigger to the rear.
Turn muzzle up. Reset the system by drawing the slide back about 1/2" while still holding trigger to rear.
As slowly as you can, ease the slide forward ( muzzle still up, trigger still depressed).
The slide will generally stop short of the fully forward position.
Start rotating the pistol to horizontal.
The slide should fully engage before horizontal to indicate it is still functional.
This info is regurgitated from a guy who used to instruct at a fairly well known school in Az.
Apocalypse-Now said:
That's what they cost a the places where 99.9% of Glock owners get their parts. There's still smoke in the air until you post where you get yours for $11. My guess is your price plus shipping & GlockParts.com's price +$3 shipping will put the pretty close in total cost anyhow .
http://glockstore.com/pgroup_descrip/371_Guide+Rod+Assemblies/7971_Glock+Factory+Dual+Recoil+Spring+Assembly/?return=%3ftpl%3Dindex%26category_id%3D371%26_Guide%2BRod%2BAssemblies%2F
http://glockparts.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=7265&CAT=737
http://www.glockmeister.com/Recoil-Assembly-G26273339/productinfo/G2211/
http://www.lonewolfdist.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=441&CAT=176
We can bicker about the cost ad infinitum. The real issue is the reliability of the factory dual spring recoil assemblies. The factory single spring RSAs rarely break. That's not the case with the 2 spring units. I've personally experienced a failure and a Google search shows that I'm not alone. http://www.google.com/#q=broken+g26+recoil+spring+assembly&hl=en&newwindow=1&prmd=imvnsfd&ei=UW2hTsLmCMmCgAfUudiQBQ&sqi=2&start=10&sa=N&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.,cf.osb&fp=d566e0fbd09c8604&biw=1192&bih=548
It doesn't matter if the gun is a range toy, it does if it's your CCW. The Wolff dual spring recoil assembly (made up of 4 parts. Steel guide Rod ,machined steel sleeve, inner and outer spring) is functionally the same as the factory RSA ( made up of 7 parts. Steel guide rod, stamped sheet metal sleeve, inner and outer spring, plastic spring retaining plug, stamped sheet metal flange, and a rivet) . The difference is that the spring is uncaptured and it can't come undone inside the gun like the factory RSA can. So we have a difference of opinion......kind of a smoke blower vs a thinking man sort of thing. But hey....what I think doesn't matter
. There's plenty of info here for the OP and others to make their own choices. A note to those who've never heard of Wolff........Wolff Gunsprings is the "go to" place for replacement springs by gunsmiths and other firerarm professionals.
mgmorden
Member
I'll second that. I guess it depends on attitudes (ie, I know that in cars a lot of people trust stock parts more than aftermarket), but on firearms the reality is a lot of aftermarket replacements not only work as well as factory - they usually work better. That's why they usually cost more compared to factory (vs automotive parts where often the aftermarket ones are cheaper).
If you want to insist on Glock OEM parts then go ahead, but realistically I don't care who the OEM is, if Wolff makes a replacement I'd trust their stuff before I would the OEM.
Jenrick
Member
Only 5K rounds? My G34 is currently sitting at around 45K-50K rounds with no springs of any kind changed, sucker still runs just fine. Personally I prefer OEM parts, as I know my gun will run with them just fine, with whatever will fit in the chamber. Playing with spring weights on a carry gun is a no-no in my opinion.
-Jenrick
-Jenrick
Glock
Jenrick,
Yes, 5 K is about the limit I will trust on my carry guns. I agree the life of the part is probably quite a bit longer as you are a witness to, but I replace spring sets at those intervals.
I use almost all OE parts except sights ( I have Heinie Straight 8 slant pros- tritium and advise people to use steel, no snag, non adjustable sights on carry guns).
I use a combination NY1 trigger with a 3.5 lb connector which gives me about a 6+ lb pull but a more distinct reset.
I use no extended controls.
I use grease on the rails and pack it into the NY1 trigger.
That's just me. Everyone else can do what they please
Jenrick,
Yes, 5 K is about the limit I will trust on my carry guns. I agree the life of the part is probably quite a bit longer as you are a witness to, but I replace spring sets at those intervals.
I use almost all OE parts except sights ( I have Heinie Straight 8 slant pros- tritium and advise people to use steel, no snag, non adjustable sights on carry guns).
I use a combination NY1 trigger with a 3.5 lb connector which gives me about a 6+ lb pull but a more distinct reset.
I use no extended controls.
I use grease on the rails and pack it into the NY1 trigger.
That's just me. Everyone else can do what they please
DenaliPark
member
If you make yourself vulnerable enough the mall ninjas will have you swap out every part on any firearm. I use nothing but OEM RSA in my Glock pistols, I change them every 2500 rounds, never had a failure and I have a G17 thats eaten over 16000 rounds of Federal/Winchester +P+...
Apocalypse-Now
Member
you're guess would be wrong
now it's obvious you're just looking for an argument concerning guns and parts you do not own.
anyone can pm for a website where they're dirt cheap. anyone but you, that is
(p.s. that's not the only place they're dirt cheap)
NMPOPS
Member
27Hand - That spring test is taught at the Glock Armorers Course. Has been for years.
Also Glock now recomends changing out recoil springs every 2000 to3000 rounds.
Sent from my Ally
Also Glock now recomends changing out recoil springs every 2000 to3000 rounds.
Sent from my Ally
Apocalypse-Now said:
The "guess" that you're refering to was just that, a supposition not an argument. Learn the difference. The original poster (TheProf) asked for and received enough information on the subject to make up his mind. My last post (#32) was an attempt to put our differences regarding guiderods aside but you seem to want to play childish games. Your juvenile attitude makes continuing the conversation on the matter with you a non sequitur.
As for the guns and parts.....perhaps you missed my photos in post number 9.
I've found I can't trust my G27 with a single spring for all loads. For most loads, the stock spring is reliable. With hot loads, I have had failures to extract and multiple feed jams. With Wolff aftermarket 20 lb spring installed, the hot loads are reliable, but it won't reliably cycle lighter loads if I shoot one-handed.
Apocalypse-Now
Member
ElrodCod said:
ElrodCod said:
mgmorden
Member
In post number 9 he was advocating using an aftermarket upgrade from Wolff. I think its safe to say he indeed does not use nor has a need to source OEM guide-rod components.
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