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Glock recoil springs

Discussion in 'Competition Shooting' started by Red Cent, Jul 17, 2010.

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  1. Red Cent

    Red Cent Member

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    I want to order a 13# and a 11#. Since IDPA will not allow steel guide rods, do you take the end off the factory guide rod and use it as a non-captured assembly?
     
  2. Jim Watson

    Jim Watson Member

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    The tip snaps off... and back on. The last couple I bought, at least.
     
  3. Red Cent

    Red Cent Member

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    Which tip?
    Where do get the guide rods? I am still looking on the internet.
     
    Last edited: Jul 17, 2010
  4. Riss

    Riss Member

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    The end that is towards the muzzle. No guarantee that it will go back on or not break but it should come off with little effort.
     
  5. Red Cent

    Red Cent Member

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    I have searched and searched. I cannot find any guide rods (plastic) or a 11# and a 13# assembly. I guessI can pop the factory and buy the springs.
    Help please.
     
  6. echase1

    echase1 Member

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  7. glockgod

    glockgod Member

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    Why are you wanting to change recoil springs?
     
  8. GRIZ22

    GRIZ22 Member

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    Why are you wanting to change recoil springs?


    Good question. I've used Glocks for about 13 years and a friend of mine since they were imported (1986 or 87) and only once had to change a recoil spring and guide. That was when the guy broke the guide putting it back together wrong. I was a LE firearms instructor and oversaw several hundred Glocks so we're not talking a small sampling.
     
  9. jonboynumba1

    jonboynumba1 Member

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    the factory springs in most models should cycle about anything but super light loads...you could trim a little off a factory I guess? They are less than $10...I wasn't aware of the guiderod rule....I assume that is if it's not factory? Anyway I use Wolf one piece non-captured guidrods and have an assortment of tuning and replacement springs...I trust a solid one-piece design...and I use wolf springs so that just makes sense...I've never had a failure of a factory $7 assembly but they do tend to get chipped and chewed up looking....still....for $7 you get a whole new one. The only one I've seen broken was a GLOCK 30 with the dual recoil assembly...a customer decided to strip it down and tried to re-assemble it before I got there and "sproing" it went (cracked the base off having failed to seat it properly) GLOCK sent a replacement free. It was a little disturbing how easy it broke though...so although I've never had one fail...I still preffer the wolf one piece...which their springs fit perfectly so that's nice.

    I shoot factory weight in my 21SF and +1 in my 23. I will order the lower power calibration set for the 21 if my 21 fails to cycle my target loads with the 17# spring...but I havent gotten a stainless barrel to shoot lead through it with yet so it hasn't been an issue (200gr SWC with a whole 5 gr. of Unique) it's a nice paper puncher and you can deffinately let anyone shoot it all day! It ran fine in a 5" 1911 with 18.5# spring...but then the 21's slide probably has more mass....so who knows...time will tell. Years ago I went up in spring power several pounds in my old 21 and found it increased recoil and decreased my accuracy....weird huh? You never know till you play I guess.
     
    Last edited: Jul 24, 2010
  10. Red Cent

    Red Cent Member

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    Setting it up for IDPA. Just received a Wolff Calibration pack of 15#, 14, and 12. I will have to use them uncaptured. Got a Ghost Rocket connector with ot stop, increased power trigger spring, aand reduced power striker spring. With a lot of polishing, got a 2# trigger. Shooting 147s Berry plated bullets at about 850fps to make power factor. Wanting the flattest cycle I can get. No :) muzzle flip.
     
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