Glock reloads

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The only problems I've run into when reloading for the Glock barrel are:
1. Bare lead must be of sufficient softness to deter leading. Of all the commercial cast offerings, all would lead to some degree regardless of powder, seating depth, plunk test, bore diameter, some "expert" opinion, etc.
2. FMJ, plated, cast lead, powder coated run fine. Its the slightly loose chamber on the Glock barrel (versus chambers on aftermarket barrels) which causes extra stress on the brass and can lead to premature splits on the mouth. If you're wondering, I loose approximately 2% to splits on the Glock barrel compared to my Storm Lake barrel.
 
ar-newbie take a file to one of those FMJ's and see how thick the "jacket" is also look at the base is there lead showing? Just curious.
 
Like many of the others that posted earlier, I've had no issues with the coated hi-tek bullets. I have used both Bayou and Black Bullets International (BBI) with no issues in several Glocks
 
I have shot 9mm and 45 Missouri Bullet Hi-Tek in my Glocks. No issues at all. http://missouribullet.com/details.php?prodId=237&category=5&secondary=8&keywords=

Coated bullets are a bit more smoky than jacketed so I use the coated outdoors.
There are several different coatings and methods used to apply the coating. Also, if you use a powder that generates a temperature hot enough to damage the coating they will become smokey and smelly. Some of the coated bullet companies provide a list of powders that are problematic. (Tight Group is commonly listed) I have used Acme coated more than other brands with TiteGroup, HP-38, CFE-P, and International Clays. I usually load mid range (best accuracy) for SIE FMJ bullets and have no issues with smoke or smell at indoor range. As with plated, do not over crimp.
(Glocks with factory barrel and Baby Eagle with polygonal barrel)
 
There is big difference. Please refrain from giving out bad information. PD does not make a plated bullet.

From PD's FAQ page..

Q. What is the difference between a plated and a jacketed bullet?

The difference in a plated and jacketed bullet is the outer covering of copper. As the plated bullet name hints, the outer shell of copper is applied through a process of electroplating baths of usually cyanide chemicals. This plating process results in a thin outer coating of copper that is about .003”-.005” thick. The disadvantage of a plated bullet is the copper outer covering is soft so in turn it is a more delicate bullet. When reloading, greater care must be taken as to not dent or crack the outer copper shell. A plated bullet also has a velocity restriction, generally around 1,050-1,100FPS is the fastest you will want to push a plated bullet, any faster and the bullet will start to fragment when it exits the barrel. Plated bullets should be loaded to lead velocities.
The reason we make a jacketed bullet, is we only want to make the very best bullet available. Our bullet start out with a swaged lead core and then are mated with the solid copper jacket in another process that forms the jacket to the lead core by force. Our jackets are made out .014” stripping to give you the very best bullet. By using a true solid copper jacket we end up with finished product that is much more consistent, accurate, and can withstand any of the velocities of any handgun calibers including magnums.
Plated and Coated have no exposed lead and is a factor for some people.
 
I've run thousands of powder coated and hi tech coated bullets through a stock 34 barrel without any problems.
 
I too shoot MBC Hi-Tek coated through a G19 with no problems. They are just about all I shoot in 9mm.
 
I'm starting into this and have read a lot of misinformation regarding glock barrels. The most common one is that all glocks have "polygonal rifling" well, not mine! Maybe glock calls it polygonal but one look and you can see it's just not. They have a rounded groove type rifling. If anyone thinks that the shape of the rifling has anything to do with leading I'd have to question that. It may be possible that a certain type of rifling would mask poor reloading practices better than another, but to me the rifling type of a glock is irrelevant.
Powder coating is a great equalizer for guns and can be abused much more than bare lead, however, as usual bullet/barrel fit is king. Id go so far as to say it's the first consideration on loading lead projectiles for any gun. If your coated bullet is .356" and your barely major diameter is .356 you run the risk of leading regardless of coatings. It's like flame cutting the lead A's gasses slip by the sides. Bullet hardness also may contribute as mentioned above. If the lead is nice and soft, it can obturate better and fill those smooth rifling grooves.
I'm no expert but I'm not going to shy away from loading lead in my glock because I feel like it's a fine barrel that can handle unlimited quantities of lead, as long as I do my part in the reload process. For my glock I'm casting .358" bullets, coating them to .359-.360" sized with a lee push through sizer that I opened up to .357" (it was labeled .357 but was actually sizing them to .3555") and I slugged the glock barrel and came out to .3555". So, I have about 1.5 mil interference fit and so far, only a few hundred rounds, zero leading.

I'm not giving advice as I don't know enough yet to do so, but after all these posts I'm going to throw out that it's silly to debate bullet constructions and brands and barrels without slugging what you're using. You need the bullet and the barrel to have the right relationship, by measuring both, and this is important with all bullets, but with lead bullets it will evidence itself with leading if it's wrong.
 
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