Good Alternative to S&W's J-Frames

[Redcoat3340]

I've got a couple of J-frame Smiths -- 642PC; older model 36; and a 638-3 on the way. Plus a 38/22 Terrier.

But I'm wondering who besides Smith and Colt makes J-frame-size .38 specials that are reliable enough for concealed carry; have good-to-very good triggers esp. in double action; and won't break the bank.

I guess Taurus. (I had an 85 years ago, was unimpressed and sold it off). Charter Arms makes a bunch of 'em, but I'm reading their triggers aren't all that good. Windicators are pot metal?

So what else are people buying, carrying and shooting in that size. (And yes, I'd include 2" S&W model 10s and the like. Plus a snubbie .357, not that I'd ever shoot full-power magnums out of a 2" barrel.)

 

[IlikeSA]

Ruger LCR series. In .38 they weigh around 12-13 oz, and in .357 around 16 oz. The trigger is fantastic for the size.

 

[rhino465]

I've got a couple of J-frame Smiths -- 642PC; older model 36; and a 638-3 on the way. Plus a 38/22 Terrier.

But I'm wondering who besides Smith and Colt makes J-frame-size .38 specials that are reliable enough for concealed carry; have good-to-very good triggers esp. in double action; and won't break the bank.

I guess Taurus. (I had an 85 years ago, was unimpressed and sold it off). Charter Arms makes a bunch of 'em, but I'm reading their triggers aren't all that good. Windicators are pot metal?

So what else are people buying, carrying and shooting in that size. (And yes, I'd include 2" S&W model 10s and the like. Plus a snubbie .357, not that I'd ever shoot full-power magnums out of a 2" barrel.)

Ruger LCR, without reservation. In my opinion, the triggers are noticeably superior to current production S&W j-frames, as reliable as a machine can be, and the most important thing: it doesn't hurt to shoot them like it does to shoot an airweight j-frame. Nothing else even comes close without significant work.

 

[fxvr5]

If you're considering a M10, then also look at the Colts, cobra and king cobra. Even the king cobra has a smaller frame than the S&W Model 10 k-frame. And the 2.5" Model 19 and 2.75" 66. In that light, also look at the Kimber.

Taurus 605 and 856 also have small frames and would fit the need.

 

[Anchorite]

I’ve had a couple of Taurus revolvers (85 and 605). Both were reliable, I eventually sold them - because I had other choices.

I’ve tried the LCR a few times, but ended up selling them off because firing with +P felt like I was smacking the palm of my hand with a ball peen hammer. They also seemed a smidge thicker than my comparable Smiths.

Presently I have a Smith 442, 49 and 340PD.

I also have a Colt DS and a couple of Cobras. My edc is a Colt Agent. Couldn’t be happier. It feels heavier than the 442, but has 20% greater capacity. Sadly, none of these Colts are made (or for that matter serviced) anymore.

I also have a SP101 with a factory bobbed hammer. If you could get used to the weight, that’s the direction I think I’d go. Only reason I don’t edc mine is because 99% of the time I’m pocket carrying and that little tank just doesn’t work for me…but a slim, OWB belt holster and I think I could grow to be very fond of that SP101.

 

[armoredman]

Well, my Interarms era Rossi 885 has been letter perfect. I am very interested in trying out thier new RP 63, but that's a wee bit bigger than a J Frame.
I had a Charter Arms Off Duty 38 snub about 40 years ago that was just fine.

 

[vanfunk]

Definitely consider a new Colt Cobra if the trigger pull is important to you. The DA and SA on mine is just like a baby Python; smooooooth and light, but not too light for carry. It’s all steel and heavier than a steel J frame but that also makes it much more controllable and I don’t find it onerous to carry at all. AND, six for sure vs. the J frame’s 5.

You may not be considering Colts but it’s my job to tell me you’re wrong.

 

[bannockburn]

armoredman

Well, my Interarms era Rossi 885 has been letter perfect.

I had a Rossi, an all stainless Model 88 with a 3" barrel. I got it mainly because S&W had yet to offer a stainless Model 60 like that. The Rossi was actually very well made, nearly the equal of contemporary S&W J frames of that era, and was a frequent companion on many a backwoods hike.

 

[Mike in Western Oregon]

What about a 2 “ Kimber k6s? 6 shots, 23 ounces. .357 or .38. Decent triggers. I have one that’s held up fine.

 

[JERRY]

My better half tried the problematic Charter arms light weight revolver and ditched it after it's second trip to the factory.
She then took up a J frame and liked it fairly well. She later tried my LCR and made it hers.

 

[Styx]

Kimber K6s: it's 6 shot 23oz, all stainless in 38/357, and is pricey just like K-frame Smiths and the Colt King Cobra. That's because, unlike with S&W, it's made with all forged internals (no MIM or polymer). Uses a coil mainspring and has an out the box trigger that is comparable to S&W J-frames IMHO. I've owned a K6s for about 3 years now. It's a very well-made revolver. Better than the other alternatives in it's class IMHO.

Kimber has their newer K6xs, which is an aluminum frame 38 special only revolver weighing in at 15.9oz. It's hundreds of dollars less than the K6s and is about the same price as the 357mag/9mm/327mag Ruger LCR. It's also 6 rounds instead of 5 like Rugers and Smiths.

Ruger LCR: I've owned one since 2012, so approximately 12 years now. I own the, compared to the aluminum frame 38 special version (13.5oz), slightly heavier and more expensive PVD finished stainless frame 38/357 version (17.1oz). The main two very common complaints about the LCR are how beautiful it is and its trigger. I prefer the J-frame, Kimber, Colt, and even the tigger on my Taurus 85 better. The trigger return/rebound on the LCR is weaker than comparable revolvers. It makes short stroking the trigger when shooting fast almost unavoidable. Even experienced revolver shooters who have been shooting for several decades have reported the same issue. With that said, it is still a great revolver, with a trigger pull most love, and most seem to love their LCRs despite the quirks. I wouldn't part with mine. My 357 LCR looks almost as good as the same I purchased it 12 years ago. Unlike S&W's aluminum frame Centennials, the finish and coatings do not start to peel off within a short time-frame of use.

Charter Arms: Run

 

[Rexster]

I went with the SP101 more than twenty years ago, in my early forties. The second of my presently-owned SP101 snub-guns relegated my Airweight J to ”occasional” status, in 2002, and the third of my presently-owned SP101 snubs relegated the Airweight J to reserve status. (I have recently returned to occasionally using J-Frames, but .32, rather than .38, which is kinder to my aging hands, but that is not the subject at hand.) The factory Ruger SP101 grip is a PERFECT fit, in both my left and right hands

Friends, and high-level instructors of my acquaintance, all of whom I respect for their opinions on snub guns, include those who like the Ruger LCR-series. Do, of course, thoroughly vet ANY Ruger product, due to some QC/QA slip-ups.

My wife had a Taurus 85, which worked quite well, but she let a co-worker talk her into selling it to him. They were investigators, for a .gov entity, not an “armed” occupation, but likely to be seen as LEO-equivalents by some revenge-seeking miscreants. Had my wife thought that the Taurus 85 was not a reliable weapon, she would not have sold it to her colleague. She was simply more attached to her S&W K-snub, so, sold the Taurus. (Of course, she could “borrow” a J-snub from me, at any time, when her K-snub was too large.)

Why did I buy a third SP101 snub-gun? Well, the pair I had acquired, in 1997 and 2002, were equipped with spur-less hammers. I wanted to be able to use a horizontal shoulder rig, and a field-type holster, with a retention strap, from time to time. So, when I found a particularly smooth SP101 with a spur hammer, I bought it, on the spot. Then, of course, I just had to have a 3” SP101, and so forth…

 

[Rexster]

For those who think that an SP101 is too large, well, the J-Frame that I most dearly loved, and fervently wish that I had not sold or traded, was square-butt Model 60, with a heavier barrel profile, one of a limited run. I see the SP101 as being a perfect replacement for a square-butt, heavy-barrel J-Frame.

 

[JERRY]

For those who think that an SP101 is too large, well, the J-Frame that I most dearly loved, and fervently wish that I had not sold or traded, was square-butt Model 60, with a heavier barrel profile, one of a limited run. I see the SP101 as being a perfect replacement for a square-butt, heavy-barrel J-Frame.

It's not that the SP 101 is too large is that it's so heavy comparatively speaking. Small guns are generally meant to be concealed with lighter clothing. Weight of the gun becomes a factor.

 

[Rexster]

It's not that the SP 101 is too large is that it's so heavy comparatively speaking. Small guns are generally meant to be concealed with lighter clothing. Weight of the gun becomes a factor.

True. Weight is a factor. Sometimes I forget that, because I stopped wanting to shoot light-weight revolvers so very long ago, when thumb and wrist arthritis started sneaking up on me. Since then, I carry steel revolvers.

 

[Kleanbore]

It's not that the SP 101 is too large is that it's so heavy comparatively speaking. Small guns are generally meant to be concealed with lighter clothing. Weight of the gun becomes a factor.

It is heavy enough for rapid controlled fire and for extended range practice withput wear and tear on the hand. It is too heavy for pocket carry, but not for a belt holster.

I prefer a Colt or Kimber with a sixth shot.

 

[dickydalton]

I bought a Kimber KSXS a little while ago. I now carry it almost as much as my 632-2 327 Pro Series.

 

[Styx]

For those who think that an SP101 is too large, well, the J-Frame that I most dearly loved, and fervently wish that I had not sold or traded, was square-butt Model 60, with a heavier barrel profile, one of a limited run. I see the SP101 as being a perfect replacement for a square-butt, heavy-barrel J-Frame.

I know you stated square butts, but the SP101 will still a noticeable bit larger and heavier than steel frame round butt J-frames. Keep in mind that M60 below has larger/longer grips than the SP101 pictured, so it's even smaller. The SP101 is also 5oz +/- heavier than steel frame Smiths. I can still pocket carry the 21 +/- once steel frame J-frames, Kimber K6s, Ruger LCRs, etc. I'm not interested in shooting 357 out of any of them including the SP101 other than maybe once in a blue moon just for kicks.

 

[halfmoonclip]

Sorry, I stick with Smiths, especially Centennials. The lower bore axis (choke up on the humpback) will reduce felt recoil. The steel 640s are more pleasant to shoot, a 340SC makes a great hiking gun.
I've handled Kimbers, but they seem graceless things, with their straight line design.
Moon

 

[.38 Special]

For my money, nobody* makes a snub with a "very good" DA trigger. Older S&W triggers are going to be smooth, but heavy. Modern ones may or may not be especially smooth, and still heavy. Every Taurus 85 I have tried has had a lousy trigger, and my efforts to lighten them (spring kits, etc.) have generally been disastrous. Charter triggers are even worse, in my experience. I've never owned one so have never tried to fix one, and probably wouldn't. Ruger DA triggers are also pretty workaday in my experience, and depending on the exact gun, can be very difficult to improve.

Which is a long way of saying that the only route I'm aware of for a "very good" snub trigger is a gunsmith.

*I don't have enough experience with Colt products to say for sure. I have heard that the Detective Specials have better-than-average triggers, but the two I have tried were pretty ordinary.

 

[Tallball]

My favorite carry piece is my Ruger LCR. Second favorite is a S&W 642.

My two older Charter Arms revolvers have been fine. Both of the newer ones had to go back to the factory.

My steel Taurus j-frames have been fine. They usually need a new spring kit from Wolff to have a decent trigger. Cheap and easy fix. The older aluminum framed Taurii had a problem with the firing pin channel. I think it would get peened out of shape. If they put a steel insert there now, those should be fine, too.

This one was barely over $200 used and goes bang just fine.

Taurus Model 85 38 special DAO

• Tallball
• Feb 12, 2022

 

[Styx]

My favorite carry piece is my Ruger LCR. Second favorite is a S&W 642.

My two older Charter Arms revolvers have been fine. Both of the newer ones had to go back to the factory.

My steel Taurus j-frames have been fine. They usually need a new spring kit from Wolff to have a decent trigger. Cheap and easy fix. The older aluminum framed Taurii had a problem with the firing pin channel. I think it would get peened out of shape. If they put a steel insert there now, those should be fine, too.

This one was barely over $200 used and goes bang just fine.

Taurus Model 85 38 special DAO

• Tallball
• Feb 12, 2022

The Taurus 85 was in production from 1985 until 2018 (33 years). I'm sure equipment, springs, etc, have changed over the duration of its production as has personal experiences. All I can speak on is my personal experience with my one example of a stainless 2" 85 that was purchased NIB around 2017 for $214.99 shipped from KyGunCo.com, so mine is a late production version made a year before they went with the 856. The trigger on my example is on par with my J-frames and my K6s. It's been 100%. For an all stainless forged frame revolver that's 3x to 4x less than other options on the market, they are well worth the price.

Yes, a couple of very inexpensive Wolff trigger springs will improve the trigger if needed. Some Mothers Mag & Aluminum Polish and wet sandpaper will give it a S&W type brush finish or a mirror finish. With a little TLC, they're great shooters that can look good and do everything their much more expensive competitors can do. They also fit S&W J-frame holsters perfectly.

 

[JERRY]

The new Smith and Wesson Lipsey 6 shot 32mag centennials coming out make this all a moot point, unless you like carrying heavier guns or smacking your hand with a hammer in other calibers.

 

[P5 Guy]

 

[.455_Hunter]

For me, the LCR design forces too low of a grip and a too high of a bore axis. I much prefer variations of the "magna" or service style grips that allow high hand positioning, and similarly dislike grip adapters like the Tyler-T. The whole "rear of the trigger guard hitting your knuckle" thing is overblown to the point of seriously comprising either concealment (with oversize monster "combat" grips) or proper full-finger grip placement (with "boot" grips).