Got a new sharpener today

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Corpral_Agarn

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That's an interesting take on the KME system. I wish the abrasive holder was flat on the back and didn't have that dorsal fin grip so you could use an angle cube to verify the actual angle since deeper blades will have shallower angles than shallower blades, and vice versa.
 
I started with am inexpensive Arkansas stone, than moved up to lansky , than wife bought a chef knife sharpener , than I bought the Work Sharp sharpener, and now I have Norton Water Stone kit with 220 grit on one side and 1000 on the other side, and 4000/8000 . They all work great, it is me that sucks.
 
So it's easy to setup, that's for sure.

So far it's easy to use. I started with the course side and worked my way up to the fine stone.

I haven't started with the ceramic yet, I think I'll wait for the disc adhesive and the sand paper for the extra options.

Just with the fine stone, it's reasonably sharp but not anything amazing.

The part that I appreciate the most is how even and shiny the sharpened edge is
 
Your gonna love it!

I started with a Lansky 20 years ago, wish work sharp was around then.

Same here. I'm still using the Lansky. In fact, I just got another stone for doing serrated blades.

Agarn's kit seems to be the same principle as the Lansky. It looks more ergonomic. The Lansky is hard on my wrists these days. Wish I had a way to measure pre existing blade angles before I set up the sharpener.

By the way, @Corpral_Agarn buddy of mine down in California ran into Larry Storch (The actor who played Cpl. Agarn on TV for those who might not know) a couple weeks ago. 98 years old. He was wearing his hat from F Troop. You know, I should create an alter-ego here and name myself Sgt. O' Rourke. I don't know why everyone says you're so dumb.
 
Same here. I'm still using the Lansky. In fact, I just got another stone for doing serrated blades.

Agarn's kit seems to be the same principle as the Lansky. It looks more ergonomic. The Lansky is hard on my wrists these days. Wish I had a way to measure pre existing blade angles before I set up the sharpener.
Yeah... I wish I knew what the angle was before I started too. Seems like no matter what you do you end up spending the time and re angling it...

By the way, @Corpral_Agarn buddy of mine down in California ran into Larry Storch (The actor who played Cpl. Agarn on TV for those who might not know) a couple weeks ago. 98 years old. He was wearing his hat from F Troop. You know, I should create an alter-ego here and name myself Sgt. O' Rourke. I don't know why everyone says you're so dumb.
WHO SAYS I'M DUMB?!

LOL that's awesome. I didn't know Larry was still kicking it! I have seen interviews with him in his latet years and gotta say the guy is a nut!

It would be fun to meet him. They just don't make TV like they used to...
 
My homemade sharpener uses W&D sand paper. I tried disc adhesive and didn’t like it because it was too hard to clean up the glue. I prefer an Elmers Glue stick as it is water soluble, easy to clean up and it’s cheap.
 
My homemade sharpener uses W&D sand paper. I tried disc adhesive and didn’t like it because it was too hard to clean up the glue. I prefer an Elmers Glue stick as it is water soluble, easy to clean up and it’s cheap.
Now that you mentioned homemade, I had forgotten I had made my own setup too for sharpening. I used a piece of 5/8" plywood wood about 4 1/2" wide by the length of a mouse pad and would cut sand paper starting at 100 grid and changed them to 400 grit. I would attach the sandpaper with rubber bands.
 
Now that you mentioned homemade, I had forgotten I had made my own setup too for sharpening. I used a piece of 5/8" plywood wood about 4 1/2" wide by the length of a mouse pad and would cut sand paper starting at 100 grid and changed them to 400 grit. I would attach the sandpaper with rubber bands.
Rubber bands is pretty smart...
 
I'm too lazy. I tried a lot of different sharpeners. I just bought the ken onion workshop powered deal. Works plenty good for me. Got it one year with cabelas points. Ill spend 20 hours sanding wood or filing or polishing metal on restorations. I have patience. I hate sharpening knives though. Want it over with quickly.
 
I suck too, but the Lansky makes me look like a pro!

I started with am inexpensive Arkansas stone, than moved up to lansky , than wife bought a chef knife sharpener , than I bought the Work Sharp sharpener, and now I have Norton Water Stone kit with 220 grit on one side and 1000 on the other side, and 4000/8000 . They all work great, it is me that sucks.
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I'm too lazy. I tried a lot of different sharpeners. I just bought the ken onion workshop powered deal. Works plenty good for me. Got it one year with cabelas points. Ill spend 20 hours sanding wood or filing or polishing metal on restorations. I have patience. I hate sharpening knives though. Want it over with quickly.
I feel much the same. My solution is a Chef's Choice 1520. Still have my Lansky and use it now and then on a really top shelf knife - but for 95% of my sharpening work it's the Chef's Choice.
 
Okay I feel a little bit like a dope here, but I'm not getting that hair popping sharp edge that I'm going for.

I think maybe I'm over thinking it or over polishing it.

I have done the 600 grit, then jumped to 1000 then 2000 and it's shiny, but the edge itself is... so so.

Is the jump from 600 to 1000 too big a jump, maybe?
 
No, 600 to 1000 is a normal progression. Also, no, you're not going to over-polish an edge. Have you tried coloring the edge with a sharpie to make sure you're actually getting to the apex, or using a loupe to help you better see the edge so you see what's going on? Also, what steel(s) are you sharpening, and at what angles?
 
No, 600 to 1000 is a normal progression. Also, no, you're not going to over-polish an edge. Have you tried coloring the edge with a sharpie to make sure you're actually getting to the apex, or using a loupe to help you better see the edge so you see what's going on? Also, what steel(s) are you sharpening, and at what angles?
Asking the real questions!

I have not colored the edge, that's a good idea that I should have thought of.
IDK what a loupe is... (I am so ashamed LOL)
It's D2 steel, which, I know is harder to sharpen...
20 degree angle (maybe a little too shallow?)
 
20 degrees per side is fine for D2. It's the max I'd go on D2 unless I was chopping hard stuff. For a pocket knife or kitchen knife I'd go a bit shallower.

A loupe is a fancy magnifying glass. They're the small, higher magnification hand-held lenses you commonly see jewelers and coin collectors using.

How much pressure are you using? It's easy to use too much. You just need to guide the stones and let the abrasive do the work, not pressure.
 
20 degrees per side is fine for D2. It's the max I'd go on D2 unless I was chopping hard stuff. For a pocket knife or kitchen knife I'd go a bit shallower.

A loupe is a fancy magnifying glass. They're the small, higher magnification hand-held lenses you commonly see jewelers and coin collectors using.

How much pressure are you using? It's easy to use too much. You just need to guide the stones and let the abrasive do the work, not pressure.
Yeah I figured with this new sharpener, I can dress up the edge easier so no worries about a nice angled edge.

I wasn't trying to use too much pressure... but I am betting that could be my issue. I was watching TV and probably not paying as much attention to the pressure.
 
Yeah I figured with this new sharpener, I can dress up the edge easier so no worries about a nice angled edge.

I wasn't trying to use too much pressure... but I am betting that could be my issue. I was watching TV and probably not paying as much attention to the pressure.
Could be too much pressure. Could be a burr that you're moving back and forth as you switch sides of the knife and never completely removing. Or it could be that you're setting a slightly shallower angle than factory grind, and you haven't quite gotten to the apex yet.
 
Just a guess but... It can take more time with the coarser stones to get the blade properly profiled than you might think. Once you get that done, the finer stuff goes pretty fast. At least that's been my experience with the Lansky system, which uses the same principle as the unit you're using.
 
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