got a solid rifle but need a better scope, any ideas

[datruth]

i just posted yesterday I think about my new addition to my collection,savage 110 in 30-06 and like i was told it is very impressive so far but i need to upgrade two things asap the first being optics. I need to know who makes the better scope for the money without breaking the bank, not rich but you get what you pay for, I have came to understand , keep it between 3-700 dollars if possible and which rings to match, the next is stock for hunting primarily and range work, i have heard choate and mcmillan, as two makers that are good, which model, because 06 in a super light synthetic stock but i would like to keep the stock synthetic just not this one, thanks in advance

 

[Regolith]

Leupold Mark IV's are, from what I've heard, hard to beat Getting something significantly better would likely cost you much more. You could also check into the VX series, which are specifically for hunting, and generally cost less than the Mark IV's.

http://cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templ...602006&parentType=category&parentId=cat602006

 

[Bob R]

Go to www.midwayusa.com and take a look at all the scopes they have. Make sure to look at closeouts and inventory reduction also.

bob

 

[Davo]

Leupold, Nikon, and Bushnell make great variables around 500 bucks that will serve you well. Get good rings, but dont spend over 150 bucks for em.
HS and Macmillan are great stocks, but a little pricey for a hunting rifle IMO.

 

[rangerruck]

the bushnells, 32 and 42 series, plus the muellers, are good , and tough to beat for the money, you can throw Nikon in there as well. Also , if you go to a gunshow, or shop, don't forget anything 10 to 30 years old, Japanese made, especially the Tascos, with the very shiny outer tubes. Great scopes for the money.

 

[Just_a_dude_with_a_gun]

I've heard the Bushnell Elite 3200-4200 series are great, particularly for the money...

 

[Whitman31]

I've been extremely happy with the Nikon Monarch series...

 

[Vern Humphrey]

What's wrong with the scope you have? Is it broken, fogged, or not holding zero? Can you shoot well with it?

If there's nothing wrong with it, use it! If it breaks, then it will be time to get another -- but you paid for this one, so you might as well get what benefit you can out of it.

 

[eldon519]

I love the Nikon Monarchs. They're usually about $100 less than a comparable Leupold VX-III and in my opinion, they have a better picture in side-by-side comparison than my Leupy VX-III.

 

[Nhsport]

I am well impressed with the Leupolid Rifeman line . I own the 1.5X7 which is clear,bright and quite light and compact . They are fairly reasonable ,starting at $160+-. The 3X9 rifeman is around $200. I also own some of the regular VX-3 leupoilds and they are very nice but a lot more money

 

[Vern Humphrey]

In my humble opinion, optics isn't a problem with rifle scopes. You don't spend hours and hours staring through a rifle scope so that optical imperfections cause blinding headaches.

In my opinion, functionality is the critical aspect in rifle scopes. Are the optics "good enough?" Does it hold its zero -- even under rough conditions? Is it fog-proof, even if someone brings it out of a heated cabin into below-zero temperatures?

 

[MassMark]

Though I can't comment on their recent production, the Swift 4-18 I had on my AR-15 flattop was one of the nicest scopes I've used. It does not have all the tactical bells and whistles, (ie: external knobs illuminated recticle etc), but it is an awesome scope which helped my AR HBAR to drive tacks. It now sits in my safe waiting for another rifle to mount it on. I bought it about 8 years ago at a price tag of about $250.00

 

[Limeyfellow]

Also , if you go to a gunshow, or shop, don't forget anything 10 to 30 years old, Japanese made, especially the Tascos

Though older Tascos are rather nice. They have the high quality japanese optics that you pay a small fortune to find today before they went to Chinese optics. Its fun to think they are now considered collectors items.

 

[datruth]

this is the set up i decided on, am I one target ?

I really like the setup and think it will work well and looks very good as well but it working when i need to bag my first white tail/elk/ mule deer etc when i get to fort lewis, washington is far more important, tell me what you think

1.Leupold Rifleman Scope 3-9x 50mm Wide Duplex Reticle Matte
2.Leupold 1" Detachable Rifleman Rings Weaver-Style Low Matte
3.Leupold 2-Piece Standard Scope Base Savage 10 Through 16, 110 Through 116 Round Rear Matte
4.Choate Ultimate Varmint Stock Savage 110 Series Long Action Blind Magazine 1.25" Barrel Channel Synthetic Black

 

[datruth]

I just realized the rings are the wrong style ,

Im a rookie, its my first bolt action give me a break i think these are it
Leupold 1" Standard Rings Gloss Low

 

[CDignition]

For that Price Range, SuperSniper makes a scope thats hard to beat.

I disagree with some posts above. I spend Hours looking thru my glass...Buy the best you can afford.

 

[Vern Humphrey]

I spend Hours looking thru my glass...

What are you looking at?

Everyone I know glasses with binoculars, and the rifle scope only comes into play when the game is spotted.

 

[eldon519]

I also disagree. If you're using it for hunting, alot of your shots are either taken at dusk or dawn. Light transmission is pretty much directly related to the quality of the optics and their coatings, amongst other things.

 

[kimbernut]

Scope,rings,bases

Leupold VXII or better,Burris Signature, Nikon Monarch,Weaver,Redfield are all good from experience. The Bushnell Elite 3200 & 4200 series I have heard nothing but praise for. I like the two piece Leupold bases-some prefer one piece bases. I don't think you will be able to mount your 50mm objective lens on your scope in low rings. You will probably need at least high rings and possibly extra high rings. I believe Leupolds website has a chart to determine which ring height is appropriate.

 

[Vern Humphrey]

If you're using it for hunting, alot of your shots are either taken at dusk or dawn. Light transmission is pretty much directly related to the quality of the optics and their coatings, amongst other things.

Most scopes are equal or superior to binoculars in that regard. First of all, they tend to have larger exit pupils, and with adequate coatings, will be as good at picking out the target as your binoculars, once you've located it.

Next, my experience has been that two things -- big, fat reticles and sunshades, do a lot to make scopes work well in low light. You can buy a accordion-style rubber eyepiece that will do wonders for low light shooting, and a simple tube on the objective bell will make shooting up-sun in the late afternoons much easier.

 

[eldon519]

Interesting, I've never heard that about sunshades. How exactly does that work? It seems to me a sunshade would just reduce the amount of light coming into the scope and make it even harder to see in low light?

 

[Vern Humphrey]

Interesting, I've never heard that about sunshades. How exactly does that work? It seems to me a sunshade would just reduce the amount of light coming into the scope and make it even harder to see in low light?

Try a simple experiment. Take a pair of binoculars outside at dusk and hold them normally. Then hold them with your hands against your face, forming tubes between the body of the binoculars and your face -- notice how much better you can see. That's because the stray light entering at the side, between the eyepeice and the eye -- as small a gap as it is -- affects your vision.

The accordioning rubber tube keeps out this stray light between the optical lens and the eye.

When shooting up-sun in the evening, you will notice that the sun shining on the objective lens will produce a "bloom" effect. Bring your scope to your eye and move the muzzle toward the lowering sun and note how close you can get before the bloom wipes out everything. Then put a short cardboard tube on the objective bell and notice the difference.

 

[eldon519]

Ah, gotcha. I thought you were talking about big sunshades on the objective end for all circumstances. I didn't realize you were talking about those for up-sun and the accordian ones on the eyepiece.

 

[kimbernut]

Sunshades

Also facing a rising or setting sun a sunshade will cut the glare of direct sun on the objective lens. I've had nice bucks in my crosshairs a couple of times when I suddenly had no shot due to the sun. All I could see was sunlight. The accordian piece Vern mentions is to me very cumbersome but it cuts out all light surrounding the eye and ocular lens when seated against the eye which gives you a brighter sight picture in low light situations.

 

[Whitman31]

Anyone have a link to these accordian style eye-pieces? I've got the long sunshade, about 6", on my Monarch and it makes a notable difference in dusk/dawn hours...