got problem after disassembly Ruger 22/45 Mark III, Please help!

[efeng9622]

I bought a Ruger 22/45 MarkIII but I got trouble today, I disassembled it and
Reassembled , but now this gun has some problem after I put everything back.
1)It can’t be dry fire.
2)When I tried to pull bolt ,it is not smooth like before.
I try to re-disassembly it and hope I can figure out the problem but I failed. Because no matter how hard I pull the mainspring housing, but I couldn ‘t pull it out. I don’t know if someone had experience and can give to me some advices?

Thanks!

 

[XavierBreath]

Try this page.

 

[dmccorki]

Try the Mark III.org web site--lots of experts on that site. Many new owners that have had similar problems--www.guntalk-online.com/fsprocedures.htm-- lays out the reassembly process.

 

[efeng9622]

if the web is www.themarkIII.org? I tried, but doesn't find.

Thanks!

 

[rantingredneck]

http://www.guntalk-online.com/TroubleshootingPage.htm

That's the troubleshooting page.

 

[jim314]

The same thing has happened to me. The only advice I can give is to walk away from it for awhile and settle down. I tend to get frustrated rather easily and that always makes things worse. I don't know how I got it in wrong to begin with, but knew when I did, it wasn't right. Trying to get it back apart was totally frustrating I left it alone for awhile and went back and kept fiddling with it and it finally came out. Just don't get mad and start banging on it. You'll get it. When it finally comes apart, use XavierBreath's link to put it back together, it will work.

 

[efeng9622]

I don’t know if you can remember what you did wheh it finally came out? Because my situation is :
Right now I can’t pull the trigger. This is the key point. The procedure
is “ Squeeze the trigger, listen for the hammer to “ click” ( Hammer must be in the fully up or uncocked position to proceed with the disassembly) then you can
Pull out the mainspring body. I pulled the trigger, but I couldn’t listen for the hammer to “Click.” So I think somewhere is locked inside.
I checked the troubleshooting page, but I haven't found the symptom which
match my case.

 

[efeng9622]

I guess there is one procedure I did wrong ,
When I do reassembly procedure, I need to “ squeeze the trigger and hold it, move the hammer fully forwards with a tool” but this time I forgot to do it and just pushed the mainspring body back. So , I guess now somewhere (maybe hammer ) is locked inside. I don’t know what can I do now? Should I need to disassembly the whole gun or call ruger for
Helping?

Thanks!

 

[Kruzr]

You need to remove the mainspring housing again. Pull the latch down and use a mallet or hammer and a piece of wood on top of the bolt stop and tap it down to get it started out. You can also use a punch to drive it the rest of the way out.

Right now, the hook on the housing is pushing against the hammer strut (which wasn't lined up on the mainspring by holding the muzzle straight up when closing the MSH.)

 

[ZeSpectre]

efang622...
Getting the right angle to drop the hammer strut back into the spring is a NIGHTMARE until you learn the trick. Read the manual and follow the steps EXACTLY including the angles you hold the gun at to do the moves.

Some of my comments on this gun are in this reviw.

If all else fails, send me a PM and tell me where ya are. If we're close I'd be more than happy to show you the trick.

Ze

 

[efeng9622]

I called Ruger this morning , a lady told me that I can take a screw which is on the mainspring housing out then I can pull the whole housing out, I checked the instruction book and maybe what she said is “ lock pin ”.( part# 53) But I am not sure if this screw’s position already come out enough and can let me to take when I pull housing out partially ( right now I only can pull out the housing partially.) I will try tonight when I go home.
ZeSpectre, I got your message!

Thanks!

 

[efeng9622]

Tonight I finally pulled the mainspring housing out ( hit the gun) . But when I reassembled this gun, the trigger still didn’t fire. ( no " Click"
I suddenly found I lost that fire pin stop , I don’t know when I lost it and also don’t know if this can cause that the trigger doesn’t work? ( should not) But I will try to order that pin tomorrow from Ruger.
Now I have a question about hammer position because I was confused by Ruger’s instruction book.
When I do reassembly, what is “ hammer should fall to its full forward position “ ? Is it the horizontal ( cocked) position or it is the vertical ( uncocked) position ?

Thanks!

 

[CajunBass]

When I do reassembly, what is “ hammer should fall to its full forward position “ ? Is it the horizontal ( cocked) position or it is the vertical ( uncocked) position ?

Ahhh HA! This is the real rub I had when I was learning to reassemble mine. My hammer wouldn't "fall" anywhere. I learned to take a pencil, and push the hammer forward (toward the vertical, it's already horizontal) at that point. Once I started to do that I never had any more trouble.

I suddenly found I lost that fire pin stop , I don’t know when I lost it and also don’t know if this can cause that the trigger doesn’t work?

Do not dry fire the pistol without the firing pin stop. The pin stop keeps the firing pin from going past a set point where it will hit a rimfire cartridge rim, but won't hit the chamber area. Without that stop, the firing pin will batter the chamber area to a point where it can't be repaired.

 

[efeng9622]

Quote:
I learned to take a pencil, and push the hammer forward (toward the vertical, it's already horizontal) at that point. Once I started to do that I never had any more trouble.

I tried to use a tool to push the hammer forward to vertical because it's already horizontal, but I couldn't move it, I will try tonight.
I also want to know, if I still can hear " click" when I pull the trigger if my gun has no fire pin stop? I am think maybe I couldn't hear " Click" because I lost
fire pin stop.

Thanks!

 

[efeng9622]

Hi!

I eventually finished to reassembly it yesterday , Now I know there are
two key points have to be done
1)The hammer has to be in the full forward "fired" position I used a pencil to push it to that position ( almost vertical , but not 100%)
2)There is a sort of dimple in the housing where the main spring is,
the hammer strut has to fall into that dimple. I did it this time but I never know it before.
Ruger instructions mentions about 1) and 2) , but some web's instructions don't mention 2)
Now I can fire it but I don’t do it now, because this gun has no fire pin stop. I need to wait until I get it from Ruger. I ordered it yesterday.
By the way, Would you please tell me how I can directly use "Quote reply" ? I find I can't do that ( I don't have "quote reply" key)and have to copy some other people's message which I want to use and paste it before I write my message.

Thanks all of you.

 

[googol]

Ruger 22/45 Reassembly

Go to <http://www.majesticarms.com/index.html> and check out the Speed Strip. It eliminates all the headaches. All you need is an Allen wrench to reassemble the pistol.

I've owned a 22/45 for years, took it apart frequently, and had the usual problems with reassembly. But I always got the pistol put together--until the day I couldn't. I walked away from it, then tried again a few days later. Still no good. Finally, I figured that life is too short to put up with the aggravation.

Spend the $30 or so to get the modification. It will make cleaning the 22/45 a pleasure instead of a pain in the ass.

 

[CajunBass]

By the way, Would you please tell me how I can directly use "Quote reply" ? I find I can't do that ( I don't have "quote reply" key)and have to copy some other people's message which I want to use and paste it before I write my message.

First cut the part you want to quote and paste it in the new message. Then highlight it again, then "click" the little ballon at the end of the command bar that looks like a little cartoon ballon with some writing on it. It's right next to the "picture" Icon on my screen. That will add the "quote" command around the highlighted area.

Glad you got it back together. Reassembly isn't hard, it's just not real obvious. For me pushing the hammer into position with a pencil or a cleaning rod was the real key. Once I started doing that, everything else fell right into place.

 

[Bullseye57]

I don't know how I missed this thread but I see a few problems with your reassembly descriptions.

First, are you missing the firing pin stop or does your pistol have the hollow roll pin installed? All the new Mark IIIs have them now. Looks like this:



Look closely to see if there is a pin in the hole.

Second, in order to move the hammer forward in a Mark III pistol you must have a magazine installed - the Mark III has a magazine safety hook that holds the sear in place making the hammer impossible to move forwards when the sear is captured by not having a magazine installed.

The little hollow area in the mainspring is called the mainspring strut cap. The hammer strut has to be in contact with it or the pistol will not fire. By flipping the pistol upside down and closing the mainspring housing slowly the hammer strut will engage the strut cap when the housing is fully closed. Like in this picture.



Follow these directions and you should be fine.

http://www.guntalk-online.com/2245detailstripping.htm#m3fsreassembly

Hope this helps.

R,
Bullseye

 

[doc2rn]

Nice pics Bullseye, I have a Mark I but the very first time I figured it out but man those would have helped.

 

[Bullseye57]

Thanks. I have several web help pages dedicated to the Ruger 22 autos. The troubleshooting page is a good one and this one is more helpful if you have a regular Mark I/II/III style pistol.

http://www.guntalk-online.com/detailstrip.htm

R,
Bullseye

 

[efeng9622]

Bullseye57,
I just read you message, I think my gun is newer.
Yes, my bolt just exactly likes your picture and there is nothing in the bolt now except two holes, I already placed order on Ruger yesterday , but I just said I need" Fire pin stop" didn’t mention about “Hollow roll pin”.
. I checked instruction book's picture, the fire pin stop is just a pin . I think it cross the two holes. But the pin which shows on you picture is a “ hollow roll pin” . I like to know If my gun is newer and the instruction's picture is wrong?

I just called Ruger's guy again, He told me he will send to me two roll pins ( I think roll pin =hollow roll pin) on Monday. But he said I only need to use one and another one is back up. ( for free). He said the instruction book need to be updated in this point.

Thanks!

 

[Bullseye57]

Ruger substituted the roll pin for the solid firing pin stop pin within the last year. The idea was to prevent the solid ones from falling out during disassembly/reassembly - a fairly common occurrence. Sometimes people see that opening and don't look close enough to notice that there is actually a pin installed in the bolt. I've had several new owners say their new pistol is missing the pin but really the roll pin was installed.

Having a spare pin is a nice idea.

R,
Bullseye

 

[chris in va]

I had two 22/45's. Sold both, got a Kadet. Couldn't be happier.

 

[efeng9622]

Bullseye57,
Thanks for reminding to me. you are right.
I re-checked my bolt carefully and believe that actually the roll pin was installed there.
Please look at the two pictures as follows,
1)Picture “ bolt_2 “ shows there is a pin cross the bolt..
2)Picture “ bolt_1” shows there is a hollow roll pin was installed ( Like “C”)
I think a lot of people believe the pin lost because the pin is hollow and so small, we can use something to insert the hole and cross the hole, then we will believe there is nothing inside and the pin lost.
But now I have a further question , how can I disassembly this pin and fire pin in case I need to do ( for example if my fire pin was broken and I need to replace)? but may I get trouble if I disassembly this area?

 

[Bullseye57]

I clearly see the pin installed. I suspected as much but there was no way to confirm it without a picture. You are correct that many folks see that open hole as a missing pin. I believe this is because they're expecting to see that pin hole full of something metal.

To remove this pin you'll need a 1/8" pin punch. That is the size of the hole. The pin punch must be gently tapped to one side as to not damage the roll pin while drifting out the pin.

Hope this helps.

R,
Bullseye