Grip bushings fell out of 1911 frame

[NorthBorder]

My son was 3D printing a set of grips for my RIA 9mm 1911. When I took the grips off the bushings came out as well. There doesn't seem to be any threading left in 3 of the holes of the frame. I tried some blue locktite but that failed. Any advice? Has this happened to anyone else? Maybe a little JB Weld.

 

[Pat Riot]

You could try these oversized escutcheons from Brownells.
https://www.brownells.com/handgun-p...uto-oversized-stock-bushings-tap-prod621.aspx

This would be my recommendation if you are handy. Or have a ‘Smith do it for you.

 

[JTQ]

Here's a tip from Brownell's



... or you could buy some bushings from Challis

http://www.challisgrips.com/pg/33-Bushings-and-Accessories.aspx

 

[NorthBorder]

Guess I need to get some red locktite.
Thanks. I'll give that a try.

 

[Walkalong]

I'd use blue, you may need to change them one day and will have to use heat if you use red.

 

[doubleh]

The Brownell's fix is the simple way. The OP said he tried blue loctite and it didn't work. JB Weld would do the job but red loctite is so much easier.

The very first time I had a bushing back out I removed it from the grip without damaging the thread and then remover the other three bushings. I cleaned the bushings and frame so there would be no oil and applied a bit of fingernail polish to each bushing as I replaced it. This has been a procedure ever since when acquiring a new 1911 and I've never had a bushing come out of the frame with the grip screw since. They are also easy to remove when you wish to.

 

[Walkalong]

Like you say, the parts need to be prepped.

 

[Zerodefect]

I'd use blue, you may need to change them one day and will have to use heat if you use red.

True. But I've found that any bushing that wiggles loose will eat frame threads.

So I use locktite red on the bushing to frame, and nothing on the screws. I use a micro torch to remove the bushings. Same for sight screws.

I use thin grip bushings, and usually thick grips. The squish of the grips usually keeps,the screws tight. I use the oring trick sometimes as well. In the past I've even used a dab of Permatex to glue the panel on. Lose a screw, but not a stage.

 

[cfullgraf]

If the threads are stripped out of the frame and you are fairly handy using taps, I'd go with oversize bushings from Brownell's. Then Loctite them in.

It's a better fix.

I've done some great things with JB Weld, but I'm always leery where the part is under load. But sometimes, it is the only option.

If there are some threads left in the hole, it would give something for JB Weld or red Loctite something to grip to.

As said, preparation of the parts is important, they need to be clean and oil free.

 

[NorthBorder]

Thanks for all the replies. Yesterday I applied some red Permatex to the bushings. This morning I mounted the grips and all seems well, but I guess time will tell.

 

[edwardware]

I agree with tapping for oversized bushings, and the most permanent Loctite or epoxy you can find.

The consequence of them coming loose include ruining the frame. In the unlikely event you need to remove them, a soldering iron will make quick work of any Loctite or epoxy with not damage at all.

 

[rskent]

This morning I mounted the grips and all seems well, but I guess time will tell.

If you need to take the grips off again, you might try a quick twist of the screw driver after its seated in the screw. Much less likely to unseat the bushings. IMHO

 

[johnmcl]

Keep us posted on how the bushings do over time. My thought from experience was to lean to the oversized solution.

 

[rbernie]

FWIW - I've used the oversized grip bushing (escutcheons) several times over the years, and it's a pretty simply and permanent way to make things right again if other methods don't quite work out..

 

[herrwalther]

That Brownells video would have been great a month ago. I put a cheap set of Magpul grips on a 1911 while waiting for my good ones to come in. I took them off the grips to do something and a bushing came with it. Couldn't get the bushing off the grip screw so I threw out the grips and ordered more bushings.

 

[waterhouse]

I don’t recall who said it, but one of the somewhat big name 1911 smiths used to say that the only thing Browning got wrong was that the bushings should have been reverse threaded into the frame. Good luck with your fix.

 

[TRX]

I took them off the grips to do something and a bushing came with it.

Besides being extremely susceptible to cross-threading, I've found many brand-new grip screws don't quite fit brand-new bushings. And I have a bushing tap because some of the bushings wouldn't fit a brand-new frame.

When dealing with fine threads it's a good idea to "bench test" the fit before installing grip panels. And if you need more torque than mild pressure from index and forefinger, STOP. Try a different screw or bushing. Because if you force it, instead of one bad part, you'll have one bad part and one part buggered to match.

Also, stainless screws in stainless bushings can be a problem. If both are the same alloy - commonly 416 or 17-4 - they can easily gall to each other. You'll know if you feel a "squeak" when screwing them together. Stop, look for buggered threads with a magnifying glass, and if they look OK, apply some copper-based antiseize with a toothpick. Note that a bit of antisieze the size of a pinhead will easily make several square feet of mess, so be careful... if it still squeaks or feels sticky going together, the best solution is to try different screws, bushings, or both.

With tiny threads you can easily MAKE them go together. It's getting them back apart that can get expensive...

 

[earplug]

Epoxy will work fine.