Chester32141
Member
Is there a chemical that can safely remove Gun Kote w/o hurting the blued surface beneath it ?
Gun Kote Removal
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N.Schafer
Member
Not that I'm aware of if it's already cured. If it's not cured, acetone or brake cleaner gets it off. If it's cured, I've heard epoxy paint remover will remove it, but that stuff is really harsh, so I doubt your blueing will remain.
Are you sure there is still blueing beneath? I sand blast every gun I Gun-Kote. It may be easiest to sand blast the coating off and polish it and reblue.
Are you sure there is still blueing beneath? I sand blast every gun I Gun-Kote. It may be easiest to sand blast the coating off and polish it and reblue.
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
If it was professionally or advanced hobbyist applied, there is almost no chance it was not bead or sand blasted to remove all bluing before the Gun Koat was applied.
rc
rc
About 95% of the curing for Gunkote is done in a forced air oven. The other 5% is completed over time...about a year. If the Gunkote finish was properly applied and has been cured, there is no way to safely remove it with chemicals. Any chemical that will remove it may or will damage the metal underneath. If it wasn't cured and is still pretty fresh, it can be removed with brake cleaner or Acetone and a brush. If it's been cured, the best way is to just abrasive blast it off, then re-Parkerize it and start over. Just curiousity: Why are you wanting to remove it? Keep yer powder dry, Mac.
Tuff-Gun Finishes. The Name Says It All.
Mac's Shootin' Irons
http://www.shootiniron.com
Tuff-Gun Finishes. The Name Says It All.
Mac's Shootin' Irons
http://www.shootiniron.com
Chester32141
Member
This is on the slide of an auto that I recently purchased and I don't believe it was done properly as it is coming off in some areas and was applied to both the inside and outside of the slide ... I think the GunKote on the inside of the slide is causing friction on the rails and although the gun functions about 90% that's 10% too low for my purposes ... 
Gun is only about 6 months old ...
Gun is only about 6 months old ...
If applied properly, none of the various Gunkote's will increase friction. We use the 2400 Series of Gunkote in our Tuff-Gun finish and it will reduce friction due to the built in lubrication qualities of the Mollybdenum Disulfide. Again, that's assuming it was properly applied.
When we refinish a semi auto pistol, all of the metal parts are coated (Ex. springs & little pins) inside and out. (Ex. the bore) The frame and slide are both coated inside and out. However, the slide and frame rails must then be lapped to match each other.
If the finish wasn't properly cured, it will cause "wooly buggers" to form at all friction points. This is caused by the finish being to soft to burnish and instead, it just rolls up into little balls. This WILL cause an increase in friction!
Here's a couple of things to try: (Not in any order)
1...Degrease the slide, disassemble it and cure it again for an hour at 300'. Remove Tritium sights and make sure it's degreased well. 300' will burn a lot of lubricants and turn them into glue.
2...Clean the rails with WD40 on a Q-tip and re-lube with a good lube. (WD40 is not a good lubricant but it cleans off gunk, adhesive, etc. really well!)
3...To check if the finish is really Gunkote and cured correctly, use a drop of Acetone on a Q-tip and rub the surface in a hidden spot. If the finish rubs off or gets smeary, it's either not Gunkote or not cured. Properly cured Gunkote can be soaked for days in Acetone and not be affected.
4...Check the chamber for any defects that could cause a hang up. Check the firing pin locking plate. Beveled versus a sharp edge can make a huge difference in the cycle speed.
5...Make sure the recoil spring is correct for the ammo, no hang ups in the slide action, different ammo, etc. Eliminate any possible mechanical problems. It's a lousy feeling when you spend money to fix a problem only to discover that the money spent had no effect on the problem.
...Hope this helps. Keep yer powder dry, Mac.
Tuff-Gun Finishes. The Name Says It All.
Mac's Shootin' Irons
http://www.shootiniron.com
When we refinish a semi auto pistol, all of the metal parts are coated (Ex. springs & little pins) inside and out. (Ex. the bore) The frame and slide are both coated inside and out. However, the slide and frame rails must then be lapped to match each other.
If the finish wasn't properly cured, it will cause "wooly buggers" to form at all friction points. This is caused by the finish being to soft to burnish and instead, it just rolls up into little balls. This WILL cause an increase in friction!
Here's a couple of things to try: (Not in any order)
1...Degrease the slide, disassemble it and cure it again for an hour at 300'. Remove Tritium sights and make sure it's degreased well. 300' will burn a lot of lubricants and turn them into glue.
2...Clean the rails with WD40 on a Q-tip and re-lube with a good lube. (WD40 is not a good lubricant but it cleans off gunk, adhesive, etc. really well!)
3...To check if the finish is really Gunkote and cured correctly, use a drop of Acetone on a Q-tip and rub the surface in a hidden spot. If the finish rubs off or gets smeary, it's either not Gunkote or not cured. Properly cured Gunkote can be soaked for days in Acetone and not be affected.
4...Check the chamber for any defects that could cause a hang up. Check the firing pin locking plate. Beveled versus a sharp edge can make a huge difference in the cycle speed.
5...Make sure the recoil spring is correct for the ammo, no hang ups in the slide action, different ammo, etc. Eliminate any possible mechanical problems. It's a lousy feeling when you spend money to fix a problem only to discover that the money spent had no effect on the problem.
...Hope this helps. Keep yer powder dry, Mac.
Tuff-Gun Finishes. The Name Says It All.
Mac's Shootin' Irons
http://www.shootiniron.com
flrfh213
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