Gun Safes that can take an Axe Hit..Amsec, Sturdy, Forts, Summitt?

[soapboxpreacher]

We pretty much know a 12 gauge will not hold up. And a 10 gauge isnt much better. Sturdy and CE Safes new Fort Knox with 7 gauge can take the hit. But will something like a Amsec BF? I am only talking body here not the door for all the doors are typically thick enough to hold off anything. But the Amsec body is a different ball game. It is only a 10...11 gauge body but it is filled...and not just filled but poured inbetween two layers one 10-11 gauge and the other 14 or so. The filling is similar but not quite concrete. it is far and away different to drywall. But would it hold up to an axe attack?

Another question...Sawzal or even an angle grinder...how well does the Amsec hold up? The DryLight is different so I dont really know. Obvious the 7 gauge Sturdy and Fort will do alright for a while...no safe is gonna stop every attack. So I am just curious for I have narrowed down my search to these few safes.

If you sandwich a concrete like substance between two pieces of steel (in which it is formed to it) I would assume it would hold up quite well add to the fact that it cannot be displaced easiy (this is very key) because if the material cracks inside or breaks...it has nowhere to go...still providing a ton of strength. Like taking a cinder block and wrapping all side tightly with steel...no air gaps...then hit it with a sledge...it will do much better than if it wasnt wrapped...same can be said for the steel by itself it wont hold up by itself very well at all.

Is anyone else curious? There is so much good and so many that recommend the Amsec but since it is not a straight forward design it is hard to determine for the laws of physics are a little more complicated. And for those that say Dry Light is just for Fire it isnt. Amsec clearly states it is for fire and protection...burglary! So there is more to their process then what we think.

 

[heeler]

Although all of these gun safes,or pretty much all,fall under the RSC label,some are obviously more robust than others.
My BF 6636 is bolted down in a corner that makes a pry attack impossible unless they tear down two sides of sheetrock wall and the vertical 2x4 studs.
Not likely in a residential burglary.
Power tools(electric or air powered) AGAINST any non tool rated gun safe is a timed affair in minutes in which the thieves will gain entry.
As far as sledge hammer attacks I can honestly state that if given enough time they could succed but it would not be all that easy and it would be truely noisy.
I have stated this before here, but at a place I worked several years ago thieves went at a Knaack JobBox full of expensive contractors power tools which is exactly made of 16 gauge steel using a sledge hammer and although it was ruined they did not gain entry.
Carbon steel is not armour plate but it certainly aint a marshmellow either.
Another thing is the handful of gun safes that have an inner steel wall such as the Amsec BF,fire lined Sturdy,or Fort Knox with the optional inner steel wall are a lot tougher to beat your way through because obviously after finally making a hole big enough to reach into then you find your self looking at yet another layer of steel to work on instead of the contents you are after.
I bought a Amsec BF because it offered me the best security and fire protection I could find at a weight and price I could afford.
Where I live I am far more concerned about a burglary than I ever am about a fire.
If a person is truely concerned about thieves entering a home residence with power tools to attack their safe then that person had better purchase a TL rated safe.

Edit to add...We all want the most secure gun safe we can buy but in a home setting where the owner resides and few people except close friends or direct relatives even know you have a safe the likely hood scenario of well equipped thieves coming at your safe with power tools or sledge hammers is slim unless you have them there for the taking.
At times the gun safe threads get overly thought out.

 

[a1abdj]

There is so much good and so many that recommend the Amsec but since it is not a straight forward design it is hard to determine for the laws of physics are a little more complicated

It's a pretty straight forward design. The vast majority of fire rated safes have been built in this fashion for over 150 years. Composite burglary rated safes have been built in this fashion since the 1980s or so.

In fact, your modern "stainless steel" bank vault is also built using the same technique.

The thing that sets them all apart is the strength of the fill materials, any reinforcement of those materials, and what supports the materials (outside and inside layers of steel).

 

[Elessar]

There is no RSC that offers much against the proper power tools. As stated already, if that is a concern, you have to bite the bullet and get a T rated safe. If not, your best bet is to place the RSC in a way that makes direct access very difficult. For example, where mine is going it is very hard to swing a sledge or axe due to the surrounding concrete walls. Likewise, long prybars would be hard if not impossible to manuever. The sides have little clearance for tools, so that leaves the top (limited clearance on a 6 ft safe) and front for cutting attacks, which would take a bit more time (i hope). However, the number one protection I have against a sophisticated attack is that there is no reason I would be targeted for such. I am not a jewler, gold collector, cash business, drug dealer, etc. Someone one with the desire, skill, and equipment to cut and torch safes would much rather take the risk on a bigger potential reward. Of course, criminals don't always make rational choices....

Additionally, layered security further reduces your risk exposure. Secure doors, windows, alarms, security lighting, cameras, hidden safe, etc etc etc.

 

[soapboxpreacher]

So no info of the amsec drylight? It isn't concrete, not as dense, nor as hard or strong. But still impressive. So my delema is how well will a 11gauge wall with drylight hold up to an attack with an axe or sledge compared to a 7 gauge? This is my hold up on the amsec. I am so unfamilar with drylight and how well it works against an attack i am holding back. Is it a marketing gimmick? The reason why is now i have found a contender to the bf...and the bf is my front runner. This new fort knox m2 from cesafes is quite impressive and curt has really made it attractive. It has a light, outlet, 7 gauge body like a sturdy and 5/8 frame, 3/8 plate door, recessed door, s&g lock, 1 1/2" bolts (3 sides active 1 side passive/fixed. It has the fort knox warranty on everything including the lock. It is also much nicer looking then the sturdy. So he I am?...on the fence. If the amsec can hold up the same and repel the same attack...for 11 gauge vs an axe is no match! With drylight this is very unknown?

 

[Archangel14]

Listen to the gentleman from Zycan Safe. He knows what he is talking about. As for an Amsec, I think the BF6030 fits your bill. Anything from Sturdy should also be very good. Terry at Sturdy is a good man. I held out and obtained a used Pro Steel vault. Quarter inch walls, 3/8 inch door with hard plate. Will stop an axe, but not likely a metal cutter.