Need Advice on a "Safe": Amsec v. Sturdy v. Other?

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I have a friend in Houston who owns a locksmithing company. I've seen several safes at his warehouse that were "skinned" as Pure Kustom described. A 3-sided cut into the steel plate on one side, then the flap peeled back and the concrete pounded away. Another cut through the inner wall and they were through (These were business safes, from department stores and such) It's a crude method, but it works. One of the safes had over $15000 of cash, jewelry, ect. stolen through a 9" X 13" hole.

To keep this on topic, We got a great Amsec safe from him. It's a "16-gun" safe, and we've actually gotten 17 longguns in it!.
 
Amsec is also harder to skin because it is made out of one piece of sheet metal on the out side. Not 2 sides and a back then welded. The are the easyest to skin because the weldes were already ground down for the finish.
Amsec's a broke then the tops and bottoms are welded on or capped.
 
Regarding the photo of the Liberty, how did he actually unlock the door bolts by reaching his hand in through the hole? I am skeptical that the door was actually opened by reaching in.
 
Regarding the photo of the Liberty, how did he actually unlock the door bolts by reaching his hand in through the hole? I am skeptical that the door was actually opened by reaching in.

The door was opened by a safe tech.

The safe was emptied through the hole in the side during the burglary (which lasted just minutes). One bad guy was beating the lock on the door, and the other bad guy was beating the side.
 
a1abdj...Do you have any idea of what sort of tool was used on the Liberty safe??
Having seen that picture a number of times on this site i have always been curious of this.
It looks as if the whole side of that safe is pock marked.
Wonder how long it actually took them??
One of my earlier posts on this thread i mentioned taking my three foot wood chopping axe to a 12 gauge trash dumpster,mainly because i have read on this site how easy one could do this to a 12 gauge safe and it was not all that easy to put a hole in the thing.
I know my axe is not a fire axe with the hardened spike but still to get a hole in that trash dumpster the size of that one on that Liberty safe seems to take a lot of effort.
And i weigh 175 pounds and am in pretty good shape.
 
Thanks for all of your replies.

I saw safes by Amsec, Fort Knox, Cannon, Liberty, and Champion this weekend in person. While they all had nice paint jobs, I walked away very, very impressed with the Amsec BF. When one looks at the BF compared to the others, I can't believe it is the same price or less than the others. The Amsec appeared to be a "real" safe in comparison to the others. They had a cutout cross-section of the Amsec steel and concrete wall and it sold me. While the 10 gauge outer wall isn't too thick, when one considers that it's from one piece of steel and that it is combined with concrete, it makes a formidable barrier. The 1/2" steel plate on the door is also something none of the others had.

The Fort Knox safes have nicer interiors, better paint jobs, and more bolts, but I'm not convinced they are better safes than the Amsec BFs. The cheapest Fort Knox I'd consider buying is the Executive, due to its 3/16" outer plate (the thickest Fort Knox offers) and that safe would cost more than double an equivalent Amsec BF model. To me that's not a good value, as I'd rather spend a little more and get a Graffunder.

a1abdj: Just out of curiosity, if you were a regular consumer buying an Amsec BF, what would be the maximum dollar amount in goods (e.g. guns, jewelry, coins, etc.) that you would feel comfortable storing in it? $10,000? $100,000? At what dollar amount in goods would you move up to a true safe like a Graffunder or one of the "High Security" safes you sell? Also, assuming both Amsec BF safes were bolted down, would it be harder to knock over a 6030 than a 6032 due to its squarer footprint? Thanks.
 
Do you have any idea of what sort of tool was used on the Liberty safe??

The burglars had an axe and a sledge hammer. If I had to guess, they started with the axe to tear the steel, and pounded it down using the sledge hammer.

Are you sure that dumpster was only 12 gauge? That seems pretty thin for something that would endure the abuse that a dumpster would.

if you were a regular consumer buying an Amsec BF, what would be the maximum dollar amount in goods (e.g. guns, jewelry, coins, etc.) that you would feel comfortable storing in it? $10,000? $100,000?

This gets a little complex, because there are other factors involved. Do you have an alarm? What type of police response times do you have? Nosey neighbors?

With just the safe, I'd probably be comfortable up to the $20K range so long as I had insurance on the contents. You could probably increase that slightly if the questions above were answered properly.

Anything over $25K in a stand alone unit should be kept in something more secure. By most standards, a B rate safe (1/2" door, 1/4" body) is not suitable for the overnight storage of cash in commercial service.

The TL-30's that we sell to jewelry stores are usually insurable in the $150K to $300K range depending on the insurance company. Storing cash cuts that number down to 10% of the posted figures.
 
A1abdj..Yes that dumpster was truely 12 gauge in body according to Roll Off's web site.
The floor is 10 gauge and other components like the framing was 7 gauge or 3/16th.
Strangely enough i looked up some other things on the web and found that those containerized cargo boxes used for shipping and that now you see every where today as storage buildings for farms,home owners and construction crews are made from 12 gauge or 14 gauge steel depending on the manufacterer.
That's the corrugated side walls and not the reinforced framing areas.
 
a1abdj

It seems I remember you or someone else mentioned a safe which is not commonly known as being the real deal but I cannot find the thread. Any ideas what that might have been?
 
It seems I remember you or someone else mentioned a safe which is not commonly known as being the real deal but I cannot find the thread. Any ideas what that might have been?

There are only three companies that I'm aware of that build a real safe with gun safe interiors.

AMSEC builds the RF6528. This is the only gun safe on the market with a UL burglary rating.

Graffunder builds safes ranging from B rate to F rate.

Brown also builds safes B rate and heavier.

I am not a fan of Brown, because I have seen some very poor products for the amount of money paid for them.

There are a number of other companies that build real commercial safes that you could buy and then install a gun safe interior.
 
If you can buy the best large safe,that's good.If you're like me and don't want to spend that much,you could buy two smaller well built safes.One for long guns and one for your hand guns and smaller items.That would take twice the time as breaking in to one safe of medium quality.I tossed the 3/8" anchors that came with mine and put 1/2" wedge anchors in place about 3" into the concrete.Those were as big as I could get through the hole without drilling bigger.Whatever you get,bolt it down.Your 1500lb safe might seem heavy but two strong men can take a hand truck and leave you an empty space in a few minutes.:(
 
Very helpful thread. Interesting - are all RSC's made with 10->12 gauge steel vulnerable to a brute force attack with common tools (prybar, axe, sledge, diamond bladed saw, etc.)? If so, it seems like the wise option for the OP would be to just buy a light, low-end 10 or 12 gauge RSC for under $1,000 unless one could afford $4,000+ for a real gun safe. Otherwise, one could spend lots of $$$ on RSC's in the gap between $1,000 and $4,000 but not really gain any security from a brute force attack. Am I wrong? Thanks for all the insight as I am shopping right now as well...
 
are all RSC's made with 10->12 gauge steel vulnerable to a brute force attack with common tools (prybar, axe, sledge, diamond bladed saw, etc.)?

UL thinks that A36 steel is vulnerable in all thicknesses less than 1 inch. In all honestly 1/4" is pretty tough, but can still be bent with pry bars. 1/2" is going to be pretty stout against most hand tools.

Otherwise, one could spend lots of $$$ on RSC's in the gap between $1,000 and $4,000 but not really gain any security from a brute force attack. Am I wrong?

This is what CB900F and I have been saying all along. There are some exceptions, but for the most part, you're right on the money.
 
Fella's;

If you want a quote on an AMSEC, contact A1abdj. If you'd like a quote on a Graffunder, contact me.

900F
 
Would you say the Amsec BF series is the exception to the "not worth it under $4,000" rule?
 
Although i dont sell safes for a living i would say the Amsec BF is certainly the exception for an under 4k gun safe.
Where i live i can buy a gloss 60x30 Amsec BF for under 1800.00.
That's a lot less than 4k and it's a better box than anything out there at that price that is called a gun safe.

Please note what a1abdj mentioned previously about a 1/4 inch plate body safe with a 1/2 inch thick door for the most part is not suitable for storing cash for over night in a commercial application.
The reason is obvious.
What i am getting at is your gun safe at your home would be very hard to breach by most burglars who would enter your home with simple prying devices if it was put together have right at all.
That goes for your sub 1k 12 gauge safes or your premium priced units with a 3/16th body.
But if i entered your non alarmed home and had myself an 18 volt Dewalt sawzall i could even enter your 4k plus Graffunder in a matter of several minutes.
And if i had a fireaxe or 16 pound sledge hammer i could huff and puff my way into your 12 gauge gun safe as well.

We all want to secure our stuff and we all agree on that but sometimes we get to the point of straining gnats with this.
I think that BF will serve you or any of us well 99 per cent of the time.
 
Keep in mind that a RSC is only rated to survive five minutes under attack with common tools. I plan to buy an Amsec safe after I buy a house.
 
True Beren but that does not mean at the end of that five minutes you will be in that RSC.
I dont think i could enter that BF with a three pound hammer and an 18" crowbar in five minutes or even 30 minutes.
Maybe i could with some cheesy Chinese 12 gauge wonder but even then i think it would not be that easy.
After swinging my three foot wood chopping axe against that 12 gauge dumpster i mentioned a few days earlier in this thread i came away from that knowing using brute force against even a 12 gauge safe to breach is some work.
Doable but still an effort.

We had a build out in the commercial building i operate a few years ago and some one tried breaking into one of the Greenlee job boxes with a crow bar and failed and those things are only 16 gauge steel.
Steel aint no lightweight issue to get through.
 
I purchased an Amsec BF 6030 from a1abdj back in 12/06. Very happy with the safe (RSC) and every aspect of the transaction. However, I learned, like many others, that you should always buy a larger safe than you think you will need:eek:.......it's true!
 
Keep in mind that a RSC is only rated to survive five minutes under attack with common tools.

It's actually worse than this. The RSC is only rated to survive 5 minutes under attack from a hammer and large screwdriver. This test does not include any real pry bars, real hammers, power tools, or pressure applying devices.

The RSC label means nothing. This is a rating that you have to pay big money to get, but it doesn't really do anything other that misleading consumers even further. I would not purchase a safe based on whether or not it had a RSC rating.
 
My concern is the 7 gauge steel versus the 10 gauge w/concrete barrier.
This is a common mistake to think of when it comes to amsec safes fire protection.
* Not A Solid Material

DryLight or other cement compounds are not really like cement. It's a plaster-pars type of substance and although it adds a lot of weight, it's not sturdy. It's capable of breaking easily, so assuming cement would add to the thickness/security/strength of the safe would be incorrect.

* Some Types Weigh The Safe Down

Some gun safes with certain cement like compounds for fire insulators have weights that are ridiculously high. With safes that use 12 gauge steel, the weight will have too much pressure bearing down. Therefore, they have been known to literally fall out of square several years later. It also raises freight prices.

* It's Cheap

It doesn't cost the manufacturers much money to use this as an insulator, so it will seem like your getting a good deal.

* It's Is Not Good Enough

Cement compounds work best on smaller safes about 2 ft high and in really, really thick layers, unfortunately they do not work best for larger safes. When it comes to DryLight, a 90 minute rating at 1275 degrees is not much better than sheetrock's UL ratings for an insulator, and we all know sheetrock does not work like an insulator, but turns the safe into a dutch oven.
 
While I agree that the cement-like fire insulation doesn't really add much as far as preventing break-ins, I think it is beneficial for fire protection. The dry wall insulation turns the inside of your safe into a 300 degree sauna and will lead to a rusty pile of metal before you can get the safe open.
 
This is a common mistake to think of when it comes to amsec safes fire protection.

Although I'll be the first to admit that many safe companies do many things that don't make much sense, I'm going to give AMSEC a little more credit here than you are.

After all, AMSEC is one of the largest safe manufacturers in the US that produces tens of thousands of safes each and every year. They have full time engineers on staff that work with these issues day in and day out. I'm confident that this issue was thought through, and the conclusion reached that this design was superior to others.

* Not A Solid Material

No "concrete" is a solid material. Gypsum board isn't solid either. It being "solid" isn't the point. Take an empty sand bag and fold it in half. Now, fill it with sand (not solid) and bend it in half.

Or....take that empty sand bag, lay it across your chest and let somebody swing a baseball bat at it. Now, try the same thing with it full of sand, and tell me if it makes a difference.

I'm not cheerleading AMSEC for any other reason than they build one heck of a product. Sturdy builds a better product than a lot of the big names too. I still think the AMSEC is better though :D

I'm not basing this opinion on what I read on the internet. I'm basing this opinion on 15 years of experience dealing with safes. 90% of my business is commercial, so if it's been burned, burgled, moved, or malfunctioned, I've seen it in person.

DryLight or other cement compounds are not really like cement. It's a plaster-pars type of substance and although it adds a lot of weight, it's not sturdy. It's capable of breaking easily, so assuming cement would add to the thickness/security/strength of the safe would be incorrect.

So let's discuss the 99% of safes built between 1850 and 1930 that were built like this. There are a lot of these safes still in use today, and for obvious reasons.

The fill material itself is not hard like steel, and it doesn't add "a lot" of weight, because it doesn't have a lot of moisture inside of it. It is not a material that you would use for a driveway or a building, but that's not what it was engineered to do.

The weakness of any steel on a brute force attack is the steel flexing. The more rigid the steel is, the longer the safe is going to remain intact. There are essentially three ways of making steel rigid:

Use thick steel. This is obviously the best choice, but creates two big issues. Steel is expensive, and steel is heavy. So now you have a really expensive safe that is too heavy to go into a house.

Form the steel into a rigid shape. Think I beams, or car frames. If you shape a thinner piece of steel, it becomes much more rigid. This can work out for the door frame of a safe, but you can't really do this with the safe body or door.

Lastly, you can Sandwich the steel onto another rigid material. Think cardboard. On its own, the paper is very weak. Take two weak pieces of paper, and place them on either side of more weak paper with some glue, and all of a sudden it becomes very rigid.

So now the question becomes this: Is Sturdy's 7 gauge steel body more or less secure than AMSEC which uses a 10 gauge steel body, 2 inches of composite fill, and a 16 gauge inner liner.

I am not an engineer, but here's the simple math. The Sturdy has a body that offers a total steel barrier thickness of .1793". The AMSEC has a outer steel barrier thickness of .1345", and inner steel barrier thickness of .0598" for a total steel barrier thickness of .1943". So AMSEC is using more steel than the Sturdy, not counting the rigid fill material between the steel layers.

* Some Types Weigh The Safe Down

Some gun safes with certain cement like compounds for fire insulators have weights that are ridiculously high. With safes that use 12 gauge steel, the weight will have too much pressure bearing down. Therefore, they have been known to literally fall out of square several years later. It also raises freight prices.

Safes are supposed to be heavy.

Please tell me which gun safe manufacturers (there are only two that I'm aware of) sell gun safes with ridiculously high weights as a result of the fire fill.

If you could also tell me which 12 gauge safes using this construction method have had issues with their "squareness" I would also like to know.

The vast majority of fire rated safes and file cabinets have been built using the exact same method you describe for over 150 years.

* It's Cheap

It doesn't cost the manufacturers much money to use this as an insulator, so it will seem like your getting a good deal.

Drywall is much more expensive :D

It's not the material that adds cost, it's the process. Filling a safe with any type of fill material is much more labor intensive, and requires a variety of machinery.

*
It's Is Not Good Enough

Cement compounds work best on smaller safes about 2 ft high and in really, really thick layers, unfortunately they do not work best for larger safes. When it comes to DryLight, a 90 minute rating at 1275 degrees is not much better than sheetrock's UL ratings for an insulator, and we all know sheetrock does not work like an insulator, but turns the safe into a dutch oven.

Then please tell me why every major safe manufacturer that builds fire rated safes builds all these huge safes with UL ratings. If these 6' and 7' tall safes using these cement compounds don't work, then UL must be wrong.....Especially on the safes that will withstand 1800 degree temperatures for four hours.

Sheetrock is not UL rated as an insulator, and to my knowledge, no UL fire rated safe exists which uses gypsum board. UL rates drywall as a flame barrier for construction purposes. A cement filled safe will outperform a drywall lined safe in a fire everytime.

There are other products gun safe manufacturers have used as well, but the bottom line is this. Millions of cement filled safes are being used daily, and the only safes with the UL fire ratings are cement filled. If all of the other methods were better, wouldn't more real safe companies be using them?
 
I don't know much about RSCs. In this thread we have (at least) 2 very knowledgeable safe dealers and a safe manufacturer. They can provide much better advice than I can, so I won't try to comment on which "safe" is better.

I will say that I bought a Sturdy safe, and I was very happy with both the service and communication from the company. I'm very pleased with my "safe." It doesn't have pretty glossy paint or anything, so you might not want it sitting in your living room, but I believe it to be a very good value. I have a 7 gauge one without the fire liner.
 
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