guys i am raising the funds for a 1858 remington 44c but need your thoughts on 8in barrel versus 5 1/2in barrel which one and why etc?

Congrats on the new piece. I have a couple of Pieta 1858's, steel frame with 8" barrels and one with the shorter barrel. Definitely prefer the longer barrel as it balances better for me. Strictly personal preference, of course. You're going to have a lot of fun with it.

Jeff
 
Eyrie G. Dogg said:
Virtue signal much?
He asked for advice, StrawHat, not money. So, he got advice. I don’t think a clapping seal would be of much use to fren midland man just now. Do you?
Click to expand...
I do not know what your first sentence means.

But you did not offer advice. You demanded he change his order, now.

Having been in a similar situation, I can emphasize.

Kevin
 
The south had some of the largest iron smelters in the country. It wasn't a lack of iron it was ease of manufacturing. The guns back then weren't brass, they were a bronze alloy. Henry Golden Boys are .22's. The centerfire rifles are Big Boys. The brass frame models are made of what Henry calls hardened brass. I don't know what that alloy is. He doesn't really understand what happens to brass frames with heavy loads. The cylinder ratchet imprints itself into the recoil shield and that's what causes excessive cylinder gap. Are modern brass frames stronger than older ones? I honestly don't know. I do know I almost ruined a brass 58 Remington .36 with 25 grain loads. That gun was made in 1976 but until somebody can prove a modern brass frame can hold up to heavy loads or the manufacturers state they can hold up to heavy loads I'm going to preach light loads only. AFAIK Pietta still advises 15 grains or at least they did in 2014. I have yet to see Pietta advertise brass frames as being hardened. Seems to me if they were they would be advertising it.
 
midland man said:
target plinking and just a extra sidearm for snakes when fishing!
Click to expand...
I carry my black powder revolvers in the field, and the shorter barrel does have an advantage as I'm sitting down a lot/often on the ground. Just that one, or one and a half inch difference really diminishes the Pogo-Stick-Effect. When the end of the holster hits the ground before your butt does. A bit less weight, not much less, but when I'm hiking or hunting from first light to dark, every ounce counts.

I have found 6" to be the ideal, for me. My 1863 Remington and my 1860 Colt both have 6" barrels. I popped off a couple shots over the chronograph with the 1860 the other day, I sure didn't see a lack of velocity. Them balls was screaming right along out of that 6-inch. Surprised me, as I don't remember ever shooting it over the chrono before.
 
Ugly Sauce said:
I carry my black powder revolvers in the field, and the shorter barrel does have an advantage as I'm sitting down a lot/often on the ground. Just that one, or one and a half inch difference really diminishes the Pogo-Stick-Effect. When the end of the holster hits the ground before your butt does.
Click to expand...

That's why you carry cross draw.
 
Then it pokes you in the belly, the barrel hangs up on your leg or the handle pokes up your ribs. Done that one a few times. I don't usually sit when I'm out hunting birds and such but either side draw can be troublesome climbing in and out of a car.
 
I’m with the shorter barrel crowd. My 5.5” 1860 in a strong side Three Persons rig is one of my all time favorites. Also very nice are the SAA w a 4.75” tube in the Three Persons rig. Good on horseback, in a vehicle, or wherever.
 
hawg said:
That's why you carry cross draw.
Click to expand...
Yes I do, and in the past I would usually remember to pull it over more towards my middle before sitting down. Usually. But sometimes take the pogo-stick ride. !!! With the shorter barrels, I can forget to do that and won't notice it is sticking in the ground right away. Then I just move it slightly, to "relieve" the slight pressure. However, not a real big deal and one can get used to the longer barrels, no problem if one spends a lot of time in the woods. I spent many many years packing a 7.5" SBH everywhere, even backpacking. It now has a 6" barrel. !!! :)
 
I'd take 6" over 5.5" anytime. Sometimes only one half inch makes a difference. But maybe that's just me. I have two SAA's at 5.5", but unless you get a longer barrel and cut it down, that's all one is going to get these days. Like Hawg, but different, I wish they was 6". However, 5.5" beats the 4" or 4.25" barrels for sure. (on single action revolvers)

Oh yeah, cross-draw "works", and I carry all my single action revolvers that way, but I really think 6" is the sweet spot. Another factor is how much "cant" the holster has on the belt. Some holsters hang straight up and down like a plumb-bob. Those are an issue regardless of barrel length. I designed a holster for my Plains Pistol (big old long thing) and had a saddle maker make it, (Hickman's in Post Falls Idaho) and was sure to DSC07551.JPG

put a lot of "cant" into it. It's not a problem sitting on the ground. That might even be a nine-inch barrel. !!!
 
look here what the big brown truck dropped off today! i even cleaned it and had 2 hours of daylight left so i went to the lake and shot it 18 rounds and had a good time with it :)
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20231219_140328.jpg
    IMG_20231219_140328.jpg
    79.2 KB · Views: 13
  • IMG_20231219_140325.jpg
    IMG_20231219_140325.jpg
    80.9 KB · Views: 13
  • IMG_20231219_140313.jpg
    IMG_20231219_140313.jpg
    89 KB · Views: 15
  • IMG_20231219_140305.jpg
    IMG_20231219_140305.jpg
    83.9 KB · Views: 14
the first 6 shots on the right are before i chamfered the cylinder and the group on the left with many more holes in it is where i used my rcbs deburring tool to make a 45 degree bevel on each cylinder so it'll stop shaving lead and instead swage the balls into each chambers so it makes the groups tight'n up!
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20231219_162415.jpg
    IMG_20231219_162415.jpg
    77.9 KB · Views: 8
  • IMG_20231219_162336.jpg
    IMG_20231219_162336.jpg
    52 KB · Views: 8
Last edited:
If you use a larger ball, it will swage a larger bearing surface for the rifling to grab.

or, use a 200 grain SWC for a bit of accurate fun!

Kevin
 
I use a tapered reamer to get the chamber mouths to stop shaving lead off the ball. I mostly deal with open tops and after the gun is tuned the barrel/ cylinder gap is set to 002 to .004. If it shaves lead those pesky rings can jam the cylinder.
 
Jackrabbit1957 said:
I use a tapered reamer to get the chamber mouths to stop shaving lead off the ball. I mostly deal with open tops and after the gun is tuned the barrel/ cylinder gap is set to 002 to .004. If it shaves lead those pesky rings can jam the cylinder.
Click to expand...
yep i like the fact that i'm using all that lead going down the barrel to help grab the riflings and it makes for a much tighter groups once the chamfer is done!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

R
  • Locked
Pietta Remington 1858 questions
Replies
14
Views
3K
Marlin 45 carbine
M
O
  • Locked
1858 Remington 22/44 conversion
Replies
4
Views
1K
Oldfalguy
O
H
  • Locked
Starting over need your thoughts
2
Replies
39
Views
3K
Ed Ames
E
H
  • Locked
I am considering a Ruger Mini-14 and I need your help.
Replies
15
Views
874
msgsummit
M
D
  • Locked
MYTH of Chrome lined bores busted
2 3
Replies
59
Views
7K
JWarren
J
Back
Top