Hakim questions!

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P95Carry

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Main question is re the gas valve ... first pic here shows this on mine .... now, have yet to make or get a key but .. thus far nothing seems very keen to move (might it be seized?). There appear to be seven ''detent'' positions, achieved thru rotation and the locating effect of a sorta spring steel collar.

In the pic .. to left is gas tube ..... to right is muzzle end. Notice, the locating tab is sitting in third notch from bottom ... but notice also - the ''teeth'' are staggered, like a ratchet .. as if rotation can be done counter clockwise but not clockwise, unless the locating tab is lifted.

My guess here is that it is on position #3 ... #1 being fully counter clockwise and I assume closed or nearly closed. Could be this position #3 is fine but, I'd rather start low and progressively open up ..... seeing as it will have Turk put thru it.

What do you think? And what might best course of action be? Brain picking here with those who may have had more experience of this.



hakim_valve_s.jpg


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Next question ... the muzzle brake appears permament .... but what about these other bits? On left is sling band, which is removed to enable removal of top hand guard. Then, a piece that is secured to end of woodwork with a long bolt .. that appears to be in two parts and it'd be nice to split it in order to get it off ..... but tho there seems a dovetail type of union between the two component parts ... not sure if any way to separate.

Again .. picking brains from those who may have gotten further.


hakim_end_s.jpg



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Also .... anyone know where (and if) there might be any source for spare mags? And lastly ........ any options for mounting a scope?
 
OK, your Valve is probably frozen from rust or just crud. Its not uncommon for Hakims that have gone a long time without proper cleaning.

Your gas port is pointing at the 6 o'clock position which means its almost wide open at the 5th notch. DON"T shoot turk 8mm ammo or any other "hot" ammo until you free up the gas ajustment. The first notch is where the valve is almost closed BUT will function with most 8mm ammo. Treat it like you would any other rusted/frozen part. I would loosen the lock nut on the gas tube and then unscrew the gas tube from the gas chamber. You will note there are two flat spots on the gas tube for a small wrench. The gas tube WILL back-out the receiver, a little WD40 can help here. Once you have access to the gas chamber, plug up the muzzle with a patch and fill-up the gas chamber with bolt loosener and let is soak overnight.
You will need a sturdy wrench to loosen that valve, it will unscrew completely out once its free. The .99 tapco plastic valve tool won't do the trick. I have used a M1 carbine gas piston wrench, the 3 lugs match up with the Hakim valve pretty well and give plenty of leverage.

That "collar" is the steel lock spring that keeps your valve from moving from its ajustment. It is a separate piece that fits to the underside of the gas valve and can be removed once the valve is completely unscrewed.

"a piece that is secured to end of woodwork with a long bolt .. that appears to be in two parts and it'd be nice to split it in order to get it off ..... but tho there seems a dovetail type of union between the two component parts ."

You are 100% correct, you can separate the two pieces once you remove the rust. Once separated you can remove both pieces from the barrel. The muzzle brake can be removed IF you have the Hakim combination tool. It unscrews, you will note a little hole on the side of the brake, that is where the spanner fits. To remove the sling band you would have to remove the muzzle brake.

Remember, about 9 o'clock valve is closed, 6 o'clock valve is wide open.

Counter clockwise unscrews the valve, clockwise screw it in.

I have heard/seen two scope options a scout scope mount mpunted forward of the receiver and a European made scope mount that bolts to the sides and trigger guard (not pretty) that sold for about $150 twenty years ago!

Aftermarket mags showup from time to time on the web and go for $50-85. But since the Hakim was intended to be charged with stripper clips, an extra magazine its required.
 
Hakim`s

P95, You need to go to the Egyptian firearms forum over on (Gunboards.com). You can also reach it without registering by going in the "backdoor" at (Mosin-Nagant.net). If you can`t get what you need there let me know, and I`ll try to figure out how to post the Hakim stuff I have saved without accidently nukeing my `puter or this board. Regards
 
tele ... John ... thanks both for responding.

tele ..... lot of useful info, and appreciate your typing time! On the other thread (yours) someone had mentioned something like 4 o'clock open and 7 o'clock closed .. which sounds wrong .. so you are saying the 6 o'clock is in the open end of things anyways.... and then clockwise will take me toward 9 o'clock which you say is closed. (I guess the ''o'clock'' factor can vary . this one looks like maybe 5 o'clock open and maybe 8 o'clock closed, approx)

So this notch in the pic is actually #5 and not #3 as I wrongly estimated, OK ... but what about trying to turn clockwise against those sorta ''ratchet'' teeth ... looks like rotation that direction gonna be tricky unless spring collar lifted ... am I right? I have no suitable key at all . so will have to be careful .. and I think see if I can weld up something from sheet steel scrap ... don't want to mar the thing.

Unscrewing the valve ..... is this I assume a std right-hand thread? Oops sorry ... you mentioned that. And, how fine is the thread? Just wondering how many turns to expect once I get it freed off.

I will undertake a good soak of this assembly a la your suggestions.

Ahh .. so that forend piece is two parts .. Ok that's good. I will have to soak that too. Does the inner piece come out of the outer forwards or backwards? On mine it appears it probably has to ''back out'' ... looks tricky tho whatever, to get any useful leverage etc.

Seems like mags and any scope mount will go strictly onto back burner!:p


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Edit to add .. re muzzlebrake .. the main body of it appears to have a braze fillet at rear . so is it just the front piece only that screws out? I can see a thread just inside behind that. That alone removed tho would not surely make any difference to removing sling band? Or is front sight removable at all?
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John ..... I will go look at the links .... but curious as to what format your info may be in. If it was saved html .. or TXT files or even PDF's ... should be possible to attach those to an email ... if I PM you my addy. Not trying to be too lazy here but ...... if you have some pages that might help then it'd be great to have a look. I am thirsty for input! Apart from itching to get this puppy fired up, safely.:)
 
In your pic, the top notch is the 1st notch and the least open. Most people say the 9 o'clock position is closed but I fine that a little before the first notch (6:30?) the gas is shut off. When your valve turns freely you will find it bottoms out at about 8 to 9 o'clock position.

The spring will click over the teeth but when to go the screw the valve back in I have to lift the rear end of the lock spring up in order to make the last turn or two. I suspect many people don't do this and have a wide open gas system without knowing it!

To completely unscrew the valve must take at least 6-7 turns. I have also used a home natural gas shut-off key to turn the Hakim valve but then my valve was never rusted in place.

Once the front barrel and and its base separate they will fall apart in either direction, the machining is very close...its over engineered. No one ever said the Hakim was cheap to make. A light hit with a mallet will make it separate.

Good source for many Hakim [email protected]
 
Update

tele ....... I tried to remove gas transfer tube but .. despite locknut undoing just fine .. tube was stubborn .. and didn't want to damage that by over doing the torque from the tiny 5mm wrench.

I did tho over night, give the whole valve ???'y a good soak from above with ''Liquid Wrench'' .. and added some also from the receiver end of gas tube .. so as to flood the housing.

Started fabricating a key tool but, before getting to welding stage on that managed to get first movement of valve using just large flat jawed grips, with leather softening. Once started it came out easy.

The pic is as much for anyone else's benefit ... this is the valve of course ... notice that the point of the ''pie'' faces slightly to the right in the pic .. this would be about ''click'' #1 in the detent grooves ...... it is apparent that the gas pathway faces all but head on ... thus showing what would equate to full open, as that would be totally lined up with the entrance to gas transfer tube. So much easier now I have eyeballed it.


hakim_valve_body_s.jpg


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The fore end assembly responded also to ''Liquid Wrench'' and just as you suggested ... a tap with mallet freed it into the two sections .... again a pic .. just a quick one but also might help others .... this is viewed from the rear .. as yet some more cleaning up to do!


forend_parts_s.jpg


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The muzzle brake ..... the rear of this shows what appears to be a braze fillet .. only part I can see as removeable is the very front piece, with the holes in . I can see thread just behind it. Seems here the brake is permanent. What about front sight? Is that removeable because if not the front sling band will have to stay.

Thx for those last links .. I doubt I'll play with mag mods and ..... $70 or so is too steep to get another methinks! At least the stripper clip enigma seems solved!
 
Great pics, you should write a book

The very front of the muzzle brake has a retaining spring/clip and the spanner wrench hole is located at the very end of the muzzle. I see no reason to mess with the muzzle brake or the front handguard band. If the muzzle brake is on tight, you are in good shape and as you know, once you remove the front band and base its easy to remove the handguard. Don't know what to say about the gas tube, but since its stainless steel it can't be rusted inplace. I would soak either end with liquid wrench and try again later. You did loosen the tube lock nut right?

Your metal is in much better shape than I feared it would be, just needs a good cleaning-up.:) The rear and front sights can be removed, the front is dovetailed in with a set screw and the rear site has a retainer clip & screws. I haven't seen the need to remove either one on my Hakim.

Good luck
 
Thx again for response .... yes indeed ... metallurgically things are better than I had thought ... in fact the only thing so far that ''ages'' the gun a lot really is the woodwork ... usual deal .. dings and scars!

True .. gas tube should not be rusted in . however ..... now the valve is out I don't feel the need to continue on that . I really did apply considerable torque and yeah ... lock nut was undone! :p

You're right .. I shall not mess up front now ... no real need to remove front band entirely .. only really considered that so as to be better able to file and dress some burrs etc.

Aha .. yeah .. I see the front sight setscrew .... I doubt I'll try and shift that ....... seeing the screw tho I immediately assumed it was there to permit windage adjustments .... does it have any bearing on that? Not played with it as yet.

I shall reassemble now and basically get the pup ready to shoot .. starting at closed and progressing toward more open ... much as you did. Hopefully it'll perform OK .... it has MUCH ammo waiting for it to eat!:evil: :p

Thanks ever so much for all the help. No wonder we all find this place such a treasure trove.:)
 
All back together ...... and hopefully now this puppy is ready to rock and roll ... valve is set on min' and so we'll graduate thru to a setting that works. Now to find time to sneak to the range .. once enough snow is gone.


hakim_01_s.jpg



hakim_02_s.jpg
 
nice camera too

What a "beaut"... err I mean if you ever want to unload that thing, just let me know.:D Is that a strip of "nasty" turk ammo I see?
 
Yep - ''nasty'' Turk ammo! :evil: :D

I have a confession ... the actual rifle does not look quite as pretty . I did tweak the images to clean up things like dings in wood etc .. !! Photographs can lie!! Still ain't at all bad tho ..... now to shoot it!

Thx once more for your invaluable assistance.:)
 
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