Half the servicos aventuras primers I have used fail

[castile]

I bought a box of these primers. I just loaded up some 380 and 9mm for my wife and I to go to the range. It was about half would not fire even on a second strike. Has anyone had any issues with these types of primers? This is unreal. Maybe I got a bad lot.

 

[CQB45ACP]

I bought a box of these primers. I just loaded up some 380 and 9mm for my wife and I to go to the range. It was about half would not fire even on a second strike. Has anyone had any issues with these types of primers? This is unreal. Maybe I got a bad lot.

Wow

 

[lightman]

I bought a box of these primers. I just loaded up some 380 and 9mm for my wife and I to go to the range. It was about half would not fire even on a second strike. Has anyone had any issues with these types of primers? This is unreal. Maybe I got a bad lot.

I have no experience with these but thanks for posting this. Their price is certainly attractive. Enough so that I have been tempted.

 

[Mr_Flintstone]

I’ve used a bunch of them and never had an issue. It seems like they may be a little wider in diameter than most primers, making them a little harder to seat all the way down. That may be causing you an issue. It could be a bad batch though.

 

[Ironicaintit]

What's your case priming technique?

 

[JohnB-40]

Like Mr Flintstone,I had a few fail to pop when I first used them. Now I turn 180 in the shell holder and press again when priming on my LCT..So far,all good.

 

[Havok7416]

I went through 1,000 if them with no issues. There are however, 19,000 more on my shelf...

 

[Mr_Flintstone]

I bought a box of these primers. I just loaded up some 380 and 9mm for my wife and I to go to the range. It was about half would not fire even on a second strike. Has anyone had any issues with these types of primers? This is unreal. Maybe I got a bad lot.

What particular pistols were these used in? These primers do seem to be a little harder than most small pistol primers. I’ve not had much of a problem with this either, but all my pistols are hammer fired. I can see where some small lightweight strikers may have issues, but I can’t verify this with my guns. The only .380 I’ve run them through was a Bersa Thunder 380 and it ate them like candy.

 

[Walkalong]

99.99% of the time, primers not going off is from not being seated deeply enough. Investigate that.

An old primer seating post

 

[J-Bar]

Most of them will ignite if struck by a heavy hammer spring. I have a high rate of failure with the SA primers in some S&W revolvers when fired double action, but most of those go bang when fired in single action mode. If you don't have a gun with a heavy hammer spring, you may be out of luck. I won't be buying any more when these run out.

 

[castile]

What particular pistols were these used in? These primers do seem to be a little harder than most small pistol primers. I’ve not had much of a problem with this either, but all my pistols are hammer fired. I can see where some small lightweight strikers may have issues, but I can’t verify this with my guns. The only .380 I’ve run them through was a Bersa Thunder 380 and it ate them like candy.

Ruger SR9C and Walther PPK Interarms. The primers were seated flush with the base of the case. I don't think it is a seating issue.

 

[Walkalong]

The primers were seated flush with the base of the case. I don't think it is a seating issue.

Flush can be too high and not touching the bottom of the primer pocket. Mine are all below flush.

 

[9mmepiphany]

The primers were seated flush with the base of the case.

You should be seating your primers well below flush.

Which priming method are you using?

 

[castile]

So I just unloaded the rounds. This is strange. I used the same box of primers for the 9 and 380. When the 380 failed at the range I tried it a few times on double action to strike the primer a few times before trying another round. Same on the 9. I pulled all the bullets and then put the bad primed case in both the same guns and they fired. I have no idea why. My primer is a Hornady hand press. It puts the primers flush with the bottom of the case. I check so I don't get a slam fire. Any ideas?

 

[9mmepiphany]

then put the bad primed case in both the same guns and they fired. I have no idea why.

That means they weren't fully seated. the multiple hammer strikes likely seated them

My primer is a Hornady hand press. It puts the primers flush with the bottom of the case. I check so I don't get a slam fire. Any ideas?

Flush isn't deep enough. They should be seated below flush...assuming the cases will allow it.

I don't have experience with SA primers, but would think they are metric. That makes they a little wider and will likely require a bit more pressure to seat fully. I do use Ginex primers from Bosnia and they are also metric...I don't have any issues seating them below flush on my Lee Pro 6000 press. I tried them out first with my Lee Auto Bench Prime (ing) tool and didn't have any issues, with a little additional pressure, getting them below flush.

Was there any consistency in the headstamp of the cases you had problems with?

 

[Walkalong]

Flush isn't deep enough. They should be seated below flush...assuming the cases will allow it.

Correct, and all the cases I have will. I am sure there are exceptions, but............

At a MINIMUM the anvil legs MUST be seated to the bottom of the primer pocket (They come sticking out of the cup just a little)

Seating until the cup hits the bottom of the primer pocket is best, pushing the anvil legs down into/flush with the primer cup opening and "preloading" the anvil.

It's very difficult to seat primers so hard they won't fire, very difficult.

 

[Soonerpesek]

Flush can be too high and not touching the bottom of the primer pocket. Mine are all below flush.

This is the final answer....................in my opinion.
I guess I don't check 'em, just seat them as far down as they'll go in a Dillon 550..................

 

[Walkalong]

That means they weren't fully seated. the multiple hammer strikes likely seated them

Yep, a classic primer misfire from not being seated fully symptom.

 

[W.E.G.]

Primers need to be SEATED BELOW FLUSH.

Which means: Seat the primers ALL THE WAY TO THE BOTTOM of the primer pocket.

Look at any factory ammo. Primers seated below flush. Usually about 0.005" below flush.

It would be very unusual to encounter a batch of brass that won't allow you to seat below flush.

If you don't seat primers all the way to the bottom of the primer pocket, you can expect misfires.

That said, the SYA primers are different than CCI primers.
CCI primers have the anvil placed such that it is slightly proud. The anvil is compressed into the cup when the primer is seated.
SYA primers have the anvil placed flush with the cup. This exacerbates the chance for misfire if the primer is not seated ALL THE WAY TO THE BOTTOM of the primer pocket.

What makes things even worse is the horrible design of new-model RCBS and LEE hand-priming tools.
I have one of each.
They are horrible.
Each takes maximum strength, to push the lever the full range of movement.
When pushed to the full range of movement, BOTH tools seat the primer only flush - at best. Usually about 0.002" proud. Which is horrible.
My Old-Model LEE hand priming too easily seats the same primers in the same brass all the way to the bottom of the pocket.
I don't know what LEE and RCBS were thinking when they designed the current model of their tools. But if you have one of those new model tools, you're gonna have lots of trouble.

USE A TOOL THAT SEATS THE PRIMER ALL THE WAY TO THE BOTTOM OF THE PRIMER POCKET.

 

[W.E.G.]

I've loaded about 2000 SYA primers with the old-model LEE hand-priming tool.

All seated below flush in the world's largest hodge-podge of .38 Special brass that could possibly exist. I've been accumulating 38 brass since the 80's.

I've fired about 500 of those primers.
Not even ONE misfire in a 686 no-dash.

 

[castile]

So just to check, I set up the primer system. I took the dented but not fired cases and as I have done on all my reloads The primers are flush but the priming tool is also bottomed out. I have had this set up for 12 years and never had any issues. My guess is the primes themself. There are a lot of people on line saying between 5 and 20% don't fire. I have never had any issue with other primers. It does not explain why it would fire with the bullets and powder removed and not when I struck the complete round in the gun several times. I will have to do some research on the primer below flush but I have Loaded ammo for going on 30 years and never have I had this issue. So I know the primers are some what different than others I have used. If others are having this issue also. It happened in two guns the only thing the same is the primers. I pick up brass cases so my brass is a Heinz 57 mix. It may be that the metal is harder than other primers? I don't see a clear reason but there is a reason. I am about 99% its something in the primers.

 

[rperyam]

I bought 10,000 of them when I first saw them. I was getting occasional (7%) failure to fire in my 9MM Springfield, Kahr and Glocks. I loaded up my Beretta 92 with them and was getting about 90% failure rate. The gun is an older Italian model with the original springs in it. I bought some Wilson springs, 12, 13 and 14 pounds. The 13 pound spring gave me about an 80% success rate so I put in the 14 pound spring. Finally back to 100% success firing this old gun. I loaded up some .38 Special and .357 Magnum and get about a 90% success rate in my Smiths and Python.

I am definitely not buying any more of these. I have been loading them on my Dillon Square Deal and making an extra effort to seat them fully. I can’t see wasting more time with these when American brands are more readily available now.

 

[Soonerpesek]

OP….
I don’t have any experience with the hand priming devices, is there an adjustment on them to deepen the ram….??

 

[dannyd]

The primers work used 9,200 primers only 4 have truly FTF, now these are mostly used in Ruger or S&W revolvers and a Sig 1911 (I think SIL's pistol and a Springfield GI 1911). Yes, in 34 years I have FTF from other manufacturers especially Winchester, but I have used more of them. If I ever carry I only use store purchased ammunition, everything else is for Paper and Cardboard.

Used about 400 this week with not problems, not saying SA's don't have problems, but I have not encountered them yet.

 

[9mmepiphany]

It's easy to test.

Take a handful of cases...maybe 50...of the same headstamp; I recommend W-W and prime them insuring that the primers are below flush. Then load them and see if they'll go off at your next range session.

The primers are flush but the priming tool is also bottomed out.

I heard of this before, but it turned out that the loader was using his LPP ram with his SPP. Assuming that this isn't happening, it is also possible that they ram has shortened over time to less than optimally seat your primers.

There are a lot of people on line saying between 5 and 20% don't fire. I have never had any issue with other primers.

There are a lot of people who aren't taking into consideration that these might be metric primers. Larger primers do take more pressure to fully seat and if one isn't are that correctly seated primers should be below flush, they could also believe they are seating them correctly. I doubt that these primers are as easy to ignite as Federal, but I wouldn't think they are much harder than Remington or CCI

5% I would write off and uneven seating pressure. This could even apply to 20%. But when you get into the higher percentages, the likelihood of improper priming technique becomes more likely

It does not explain why it would fire with the bullets and powder removed and not when I struck the complete round in the gun several times.

Correlation does not imply Causation