Help disassembling & refinishing Marlin Texan stocks......

[MIL-DOT]

I just traded into the Marlin Texan 30-30 that I've been waiting to stumble into for years, and I'm thinking a refinish job on the stocks wouldn't be a bad idea. I've refinished a few sets of AK stocks, using Minwax stain and Tru-oil, I think I have that down pretty well, but it's the disassembly I'm mostly concerned about.
Are there any pitfalls or tricks I need to know about, or can I just start turning screws ?
Any advice much appreciated.......

 

[Txhillbilly]

Just know that any refinishing ruins the value of the rifle.

 

[greyling22]

Just turn screws. Marlins are super easy.

 

[Dr.Rob]

Boiled linseed oil and turpentine leaves a finish on the wood you can shine up or wipe dull. Great for a hunting rifle.

 

[Acera]

Just know that any refinishing ruins the value of the rifle.

You really had to post that garbage??

Ruins the value of your rifle, LOL. No it does not. smh.......

At the end of the day you will have a well made and nice looking .30-30 rifle, a lot of 'value' in just that.

It may somewhat detract from what a uptight collector might pay, but for a honest working rifle it will still be just fine.

In a lot of cases a better looking rifle will be more worth more to non-collectors than one that needs some cosmetic maintenance. That is if you even intend to sell it, if just for you it will only make it more valuable in your eyes.

Show some pictures of before and after when you are done.



.

 

[MIL-DOT]

Thanks for the replies, guys. These Texan models do have a slightly higher degree of desirability and collectibility versus the standard 336's, but it ain't anything huge. There are a still LOT of these things floating around the country.
This gun was someone's truck gun for a while, you can see the stock has yellowed and bleached out a little from the sun, and has some pretty noticable superficial finish issues (but nothing really serious).
I'm still flipping coins on whther or not I want to mess with a refin, mostly for the trouble rather than because of a possible reduction in collector value (which i agree with Acera, would be minimal or non-existent).
I've been wondering about the buttplate, with the white spacer layer. Does that whole thing just come right after after removing the screws?
It looks like it's glued in place (but that's just my impression).
Also, should I be applying any stain, or can I just apply some Tru-oil (or linseed, or tung oil,etc.) directly to the sanded wood? I know that you get some nice added tint just from the oil, I would think this would be sufficient, as it has in some other cases.

 

[badkarmamib]

The only thing I will say is be gentle at the tang area. I have carried a 336 hunting since I was 12. When I was 16, I got a cap-and-ball 1858, and carried it on my right hip. One day of the slung 336 banging against it gouged the stock (I was 16, gimme a break ). I decided to strip the furniture down and refinish it. Now, there is a noticeable transition between the stock and the tang. The rifle has a lot of history (it was the first gun my father bought after escaping... er, moving from NY), so will never be sold, and the refinishing is just one of many stories.

 

[greyling22]

http://m.imgur.com/a/opngk
This is the one I did. Got a new stock set from treebone carving while I was in new Mexico.

I have more pics from an 1894 I did with some fancier wood.