Oh man I hate telling folks what I do to these things to make them tolerable... lest I get cussed cause it didn't work for someone else.
Anyhow, when the firearm is emptied and safe- I take off the grips and push out the pin that holds the little round plug in the bottom of the grip frame. I then pulls out the plug and spring. I then push out the hammer pin and remove the hammer and guide arm. I use a stone to polish any rough edges or corner on the curved guide arm, oil it and put it back in. Then, I cut a coil off of the spring. No more than one complete coil at a time, and I don't think I have ever cut off more than three (mostly just two). And finally, I cut a piece of 3/16" (I THINK) drill rod that is as long as the hammer is wide, cold blue it, knock off rough edges, and gorilla glue it or solder it into the round hole in the hammer. The reason for that is because the hammer is light and needs the spring power/momentum to generate enough oomph to strike the firing pin hard enough to ensure a good primer strike. If you take power and weight off of the spring- then the hammer ends up with less momentum. Adding the little bit of drill rod gives the hammer more weight to tranfer to power as it swings along it's arch.
I don't know what to do about the perceived recoil- replacement recoil springs may be available- just dont try to stretch the one you have.
So was the Makarov for that matter. The PA-63, though, was just punishing.
