Help problem with SP101

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Overkill870

Overkill870

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Having trouble with a new, unmodified Ruger SP101.

If the trigger is partially pulled back then released, it locks up the gun. I try to pull the trigger again or pull the hammer they hit a dead stop.

The only thing that will unlock it is if I open or rotate the cylinder. This has nothing to do with ammunition as it happens even when the gun is dry.

Otherwise, if the trigger is pulled all the way through it works fine.

This is a concern for me as a defensive weapon. I know this is a problem because it doesn't happen on any of my other revolvers.

Anyone know what could cause this? I would like to fix it myself if possible, I hate sending guns in the mail.

I can maybe post a video tomorrow if my description wasn't adequate.
 
Clean under your extractor star, and also be sure you are letting the trigger fully reset. If it is not resetting cleanly and smoothly on its own, a little TLC inside is easy enough to help let the trigger plunger reset even under the slowest trigger release.

I'd bet a good cleaning will remedy the issue, but if not, the reset is the issue.
 
Varminterror said:
Clean under your extractor star, and also be sure you are letting the trigger fully reset. If it is not resetting cleanly and smoothly on its own, a little TLC inside is easy enough to help let the trigger plunger reset even under the slowest trigger release.

I'd bet a good cleaning will remedy the issue, but if not, the reset is the issue.
Click to expand...

If regular cleaning does not help I would send it back to Ruger.
 
The first thing I did was clean the revolver, especially under the extractor. It's spotless.

It's not from short stroking and not from the trigger not resetting. The trigger actually moves forward, it's just when you try to pull it it hits a wall and stops.
 
Overkill870 said:
The first thing I did was clean the revolver, especially under the extractor. It's spotless.

It's not from short stroking and not from the trigger not resetting. The trigger actually moves forward, it's just when you try to pull it it hits a wall and stops.
Click to expand...
I've used Ruger customer service and repair and was very happy, they were top notch. Send it in.
 
What you could do is rotate the cylinder out, and then depress the latch pin (which allows you to cycle the action without the cylinder closed), to see if you can recreate the issue with the cylinder out of the way. If you can, then you can discount the cylinder movement as part of the problem. At that point, you could follow the take down instructions in the manual and check for burrs, dirt and anything else. That would allow you to troubleshoot the problem without risking voiding the warranty.

Does it happen every time you pull the trigger part way back and the release it, or just sometimes? Does it happen over all chambers, or just certain ones? When it happens, is the cylinder starting to rotate, has it completed its rotation to the next chamber, or has it not started?
 
WrongHanded said:
What you could do is rotate the cylinder out, and then depress the latch pin (which allows you to cycle the action without the cylinder closed), to see if you can recreate the issue with the cylinder out of the way. If you can, then you can discount the cylinder movement as part of the problem. At that point, you could follow the take down instructions in the manual and check for burrs, dirt and anything else. That would allow you to troubleshoot the problem without risking voiding the warranty.

Does it happen every time you pull the trigger part way back and the release it, or just sometimes? Does it happen over all chambers, or just certain ones? When it happens, is the cylinder starting to rotate, has it completed its rotation to the next chamber, or has it not started?
Click to expand...

Happens every time, 100 percent repeatable, every chamber.

It happens just after the cylinder starts to rotate but before it moves to the next position.
 
Overkill870 said:
Happens every time, 100 percent repeatable, every chamber.

It happens just after the cylinder starts to rotate but before it moves to the next position.
Click to expand...

Try what I described and see it if still happens. My guess is that it won't and that the issue is based around the cylinder position, and therefore either the cylinder latch being at mid cycle, or the hand not regaining the correct position. Just a guess of course.
 
Positional reset of the trigger is not the same thing as mechanical reset of the action internals. If the action can and does cycle at all, then things are at least close enough to spec to function properly. But it is very common, in my experience in servicing Ruger revolvers, for a partial stroke to not yield a full reset of the trigger plunger (not the part most people think of, look it up in your manual if not familiar).

If the extractor truly is not binding (did you scrub the shank under the extractor with a brush, and/or remove the cylinder from the crane to clear debris?), then there really are only a couple potential issues. If the locking bolt isn't falling upon the 2nd pull, the plunger is not resetting. This is the 2nd most common cause for what you are experiencing, about 10 fold behind debris under the extractor. The least likely is a poorly fitted pawl, as in the second tooth is proud, and binding upon "carry" following pick-up by the first tooth - this is diagnosed by confirming the cylinder lock is falling, but the cylinder binding mid-travel. However, this generally will expose itself continually, with or without a partial travel of the cylinder. It sounds like your condition only occurs when you partially cock and abort - which rules out pawl fit, for me. Poorly fit hands are exceedingly rare, in my experience.

Failure to reset by the trigger plunger is my bet. I pre-emptively remedy any potential for this in my Ruger action jobs by optimizing the plunger angle and shimming the trigger plunger in the trigger to eliminate binding and ensure linear travel. Insufficient or "tacky" lubrication can also cause the plunger to stick to the trigger and cause reset of the plunger to hang. Polishing the internal face of the trigger, the plunger, and the bore of the pawl spring (active at both ends) will generally help, but can also promote sticking if the plunger isn't properly lubricated.

You may want to study the Mechanism a bit, with Jim Marsh's revolver check out guide in hand. After working as many Rugers as I have, I'd be certain I'd have it running in under an hour if I could put hands on it, they're really not a complicated action, they tell you where it hurts readily, and correcting their errors happens quickly - but such is the curse of trying to help via internet rather than troubleshooting in my shop.
 
We had an sp101 that was binding up. It was purchased new and there was some internal rust and lack of lubrication. Check the hammer dog and pawl plunger for smooth action. The pawl plunger was sticking and locking the gun up but it's been fine ever since we cleaned it out and added a drop of oil. You can download the entire manual and diagram at the Ruger website if you don't have the booklet.
 
I took it apart and looked for anything obvious. No the in the action is what I would call smooth. The pawl plunger was extremely gritty. I will try cleaning out the channel it rides in.
 
WrongHanded said:
Try what I described and see it if still happens. My guess is that it won't and that the issue is based around the cylinder position, and therefore either the cylinder latch being at mid cycle, or the hand not regaining the correct position. Just a guess of course.
Click to expand...

I tried it and you are right. The issue goes away when the cylinder is open.

Actually when it "binds up" it feels exactly the same as when you pull the trigger when the cylinder is open.
 
Overkill870 said:
I tried it and you are right. The issue goes away when the cylinder is open.

Actually when it "binds up" it feels exactly the same as when you pull the trigger when the cylinder is open.
Click to expand...

I'm afraid I can't offer much more in the way of useful input, but maybe that information can help someone more knowledgeable to diagnose the issue.
 
If it makes you feel any better about sending it in, they just replaced one of my LCR 327s at no cost to me because it couldn't be fixed. They'll take care of you, even if it takes a few trips or a replacement to get it right. Good luck.
 
SteadyD said:
If it makes you feel any better about sending it in, they just replaced one of my LCR 327s at no cost to me because it couldn't be fixed. They'll take care of you, even if it takes a few trips or a replacement to get it right. Good luck.
Click to expand...

Thanks.

I think that's the way I will have to go. I was hoping this thread would reveal something simple.
 
Overkill870 said:
Thanks.

I think that's the way I will have to go. I was hoping this thread would reveal something simple.
Click to expand...

I had a 3 inch sp101 that had to make a trip back to them (3 trips actually). The original problem was that the trigger wouldn't always reset. Sometimes it was just stuck rearward and had to be fiddled with to finally go forwards. They ended up giving me a set of wood grip inserts, a holster, a shirt, and a hat for my troubles. As I said, they'll take care of you, even if it takes them more than one try. Ruger and Smith and Wesson both have good customer service. Let us know how it all turns out.
 
Is the transfer bar hitting the firing pin on its way up? I test shot an sp101 at a rental range before I bought mine and it would occasionally lock up do to the transfer bar hitting up against the firing pin rather than riding over it. When I bought mine it had the same issue. I chamfered the top of the transfer bar slightly and has never happened again in thousands of rounds.
 
I'm surprised there was a charge if it is a new gun. They have always sent me a FedEx label for free.
 
I had the same exact problem with a SP101 after sending it in to Ruger for repair for another problem. It never had happened before. I called Ruger and they said to send it in which I did. They called me a week later and said the gun wasn't repairable??????? They did treat me well and replaced the gun free of charge. Too bad it happened, I liked my old gun much better than the new one.
Ruger will fix it and treat you well. They have great C.S. and are a fine company.
 
SteadyD said:
I'm surprised there was a charge if it is a new gun. They have always sent me a FedEx label for free.
Click to expand...

Don't worry they will treat him well and may even send him free Fabrique en Chine hat or bag with a Ruger logo. My love affair with Ruger double action revolvers ended when push button for the cylinder on Service Six or Security Six (long ago I don't remember which) "froze" in pressed position and rendered entire gun useless. I sold it after gunsmith made it work again.
 
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