Help with wheel purchase please!

[Stephanie B]

Yes that was it. How high is highly? I think they wanted 1100 for the 696

Maybe for a NIB/LNIB "no dash" model. If it's a "no-lock" model without the box and docs, that's a couple hundred high, maybe.

On the other hand, by 2017, $1,100 may be a "damn, I coulda bought one for that" price.

 

[Paddy]

Thanks a lot to everyone weighing in here. I was lucky enough to snag a NIB 25-14 and have it in my hot little hands! It's a special run Lew Horton model from unknown year, I think mid 2000's? It has a 3" barrel, square butt and a grooved trigger. Only 250 made. I hope it shoots as good as it looks, however I'm considering swapping grips to fit my not-so-little hands, and to preserve the stockers.
Anyway just thought I'd post a pic of it and a thank you and I'll update when I get some rounds down range.

 

[MrBorland]

Congrats on a fine gun, indeed.

Swapping grips is a good idea, both to preserve the original grips, but also because, while they might look nice, those grips have never been good to shoot with, IMHO. Be aware though, that in trying to find the best grips for our hand, most fans of the wheelgun end up with a box of them in the process.

Looking forward to the range report.

 

[Paddy]

Yeah, so what's with finger grooves? Seems like they are pretty common in revolvers, but almost never in other types of guns, and I see people talk down on em.
I like the g10 grips on my 1911 so I immediately looked for compatible versions for this one, however this led to a plethora of other nice looking wood grips, most of which seems to have grooves.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/62...quare-butt-checkered-hardwood-with-medallions

https://vzgrips.com/pistol-grips/sm...0s/n-frame-320-black-cherry-square-bottom-g10

 

[MrBorland]

Personally, I never found any of the factory grips (or their clones) to be functionally very good. And if you're going to compete with this gun, don't get hung up on "pretty" - function is more important, so don't rule out rubber grips just yet. Things to consider are how they fit your hand, having just the right amount of texture (especially when your hands are sweaty), recoil absorption, and whether there's enough clearance for speedy moonclip reloads.

And don't be afraid to modify them as needed. If you go with rubber, you can use an X-acto knife (or razor) to easily trim away the bottom finger groove, or trim for more moonclip clearance, for instance.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/24...rips-s-and-w-n-frame-square-butt-rubber-black

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/64...oves-s-and-w-n-frame-square-butt-rubber-black

 

[CraigC]

Blech, nearly all factory grips are unusable. The old Coke bottles were decent but checkering will eat you up at upper recoil levels. The later checkered walnut or goncalo alves grips were terrible. Way too thick and poorly shaped. The smooth presentation grips S&W did for a while were the closest they ever got to something good. I just go ta set of rosewoods for my K-22 and I think they'll stay. Hogue's, wood or rubber, are a big step in the other direction. Too thin and those ambidextrous palm swells are awful. The best I've found is some variation of the Roper/BearHug/Skeeter Skelton style.

Ropers from Herrett's (left, Culina micarta right):


Or Culina:




These Herrett production grips that funneled to CDNN are pretty good.



Some folks will disregard nice wood, stag, ivory or micarta grips as "pretty" and only for show. Stating that rubber grips are for shooting but rest assured, shooting comfort is the primary focus for all my guns.

 

[Paddy]

Thanks for the pics Craig. Can I ask your glove size?

And thanks Mr Borland for the links. I don't hate those at all, but I am hoping for something that doesn't look too modded after getting them to fit. Not sure how easy rubber will be to adjust.

Shiny wood does look too slippery to me, sweat is a good point, and rain here is sometimes an issue as well. My 1911 is aggressively checkered g10 and it does chew you up after a while, but it takes a few. Plus, my reloads shoot a lot softer than factory stuff.

 

[CraigC]

Size 9.

 

[TfflHndn]

Check out Altamont. They have some nice N-frame grips, either smooth or with subtle finger grooves, at very reasonable prices. I have Altamonts on my Single Seven and they are great. Haven't put them on any of my Smiths... yet.

 

[gotboostvr]

I've used Altamonts before, I'm mostly switching to Ahrends now though.

I do want a set from Kurac (Culina) though, maybe some repro combats.

 

[BCRider]

On the finger grooves issue. If the grooves fit your fingers when you hold the gun just like you want to hold it then they are great. But all too often the grooves aren't where they need to be. So all in all I'm a big fan of the smooth grips shown in the photos above. It's either these or you need to do your own wood working and make finger grooved grips that fit you specifically.

Out of the three finger groove grips I've tried only one set fit me correctly. And trust me, it really pained me to sell off the lovely looking cocobolo finger groove Hogue woodies to a buddy. But they just did NOT fit me.

 

[gotboostvr]

The only finger grooves I've found to be comfortable were Ahrends tacticals and RB combats. Although the old factory RB combats are pretty nice too (just frigging' expensive! )

Goodyears get pitched unless they're the original grips in which case they get taken off and saved so I can keep my nice grips if I decide to trade the gun.

 

[Paddy]

I think i will try the smooth version of G10 grips from vz. I wish they offered them in a pure white though.

 

[thomas15]

I realize that this thread has died down and the OP has made his purchase. But I was in the exact same place this time last year.

I wanted a revo for competition and mainly IDPA. This means a 6 shot with a 4.2" barrel max. As other posters have mentioned a S&W 625 in 45 ACP meets his requirement but since moons are needed has to shoot major powerfactor. In the new Smith line this leaves the 686 or some variant of it, 6 shoot and 4" barrel.

I decided on the standard 686 and really love the gun. However as delivered it had a 14# trigger. So, I have had trigger work, new grips and new FO front, black rear sights. I have yet to have the charge holes beveled.

I can use this for IDPA with speed loaders or ICORE classic. The only problem with ICORE is that I might be up against a longer barrel but that's ok. I used it last summer in a steel league and I'm torn, do I use the same gun again this summer or I get a 627 or 929 (both PC) and load up 8 rounds in the cylinder?

I guess that's why we call them collections?

 

[MrBorland]

As other posters have mentioned a S&W 625 in 45 ACP meets his requirement but since moons are needed has to shoot major powerfactor.

In USPSA, you can shoot Major (165k) or Minor (125k) Power Factor (PF = bullet weight x MV), but there's a scoring advantage for all non-A hits when shooting Major. Also, your ammo has to make it's declared PF from your gun.

In IDPA, however, a moonclipped revolver need only make 155k PF, and even then, from the longest barrel length allowed, not necessarily from your gun. For instance, if your .45acp load chronos at 150k from your 3" gun, it'd be ok as long as it chronos at ≥155k from a 4.25" gun.



I agree that a speedloader-fed 4" 686 is an excellent IDPA revolver. Congrats on your purchase.

 

[Paddy]

Finally got grips. Vz smooth ones. Not a lot to compare with but it's hugely better than stock was to hold. Thanks for the guidance everyone.

 

[Paddy]

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