Hk poly gripframe, how do you...

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Hk Paul

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I have a 3rnd burst pack from an MP5SD with the poly gripframe (this is the ambidextrious one that I am talking about) and Id like to know how to get into the internals, because it is not like the HK9X series. For thoes that dont know the 9X series you put onto safe with the hammer lowerd and you can just pull the slector out. However on this ambi poly one and I cant do it. However I havnt tried really reallly hard because I really dont want to break it.

Also speaking of the MP5SD, Can I dunk the suppressor portion in the ultrasonic? I want to do it and I dont think it would hurt it but everyone is like "No dont do it". Anythoughts? Will the insides rust? How do I clean the thing its really dirty.

Oh yeah the gun ROCKS by the way.
 
BTT Come on no one knows this? There must be some one!
The answear is killing me! I want that thing clean!
 
...

I.. don't think many of us... have that particular gun.

I would say that you should only put the silencer in the ultrasonic cleaner if you wash it off well and dry it afterwords, and if the solution is mostly neutral. Before you do that, however, understand that you really need to think of this in "worst case" terms. If it rusts, how easily can you get it fixed or replaced, and for how much? If the potential costs outweigh the benefits of ultrasonic cleaning, DON'T DO IT! Maybe fire off an email to HK about it.

Also, I heard that with the silencer, after two or three mags it becomes too hot to hold. True or not? I'm guessing not, eh?
 
Yeah the sucker gets pretty hot.
There isnt much clearence between the can and the gripframe, so it heats up a bit. Its not like the P7M8 though. But its smoke thats the worst.
Not that im complaining. the gun rocks. Sounds exactley like a full auto pellet gun in an indoor range.
 
You might try www.full-auto.com a couple of the doofus's over there are dealers or enthusiasts. I call them doofus's because I live in Ca. and I am prevented from enjoying such freedoms as transferable NFA firearms.

Pretty good knowledge base over there, I'm betting they will know as a few owners of MP5s are over there and even owners of HK53s.
 
it looks like each grip frame group is a separate functional unit:
http://gunshop.clandeadgoat.net/mp5/real/02_11_accessories_02.jpg

http://gunshop.clandeadgoat.net/mp5/real/mp5_mania.htm

The trigger mechanism is similar in design to that used in the FN FAL. When set on "0," "S" (safe) or a white bullet in a rectangular box with an "X" superimposed over it, the selector lever's spindle prevents all upward movement of the sear and its nose cannot drop out of engagement with the hammer's notch.

When put on "1," "E" (einzeln = single) or a red bullet in a box, pulling the trigger will rotate the sear down and out of the hammer's notch. When the hammer rotates forward, the sear slips forward and its end drops down off a fixed step. In recoil, the hammer is rotated back by the bolt carrier and catches the sear's nose, pushing it back in contact with the fixed step. After the bolt closes again, the auto sear releases the hammer, which is then held by the sear. Releasing the trigger allows the tail end of the sear to rise and move onto the fixed step. Pulling the trigger again will repeat the process.

When the selector lever is set to "F" (full-auto), or seven red bullets in a long box open at the front end (implying infinity), its spindle allows the sear's tail to rise so high that the sear's nose does not engage the hammer notch at all. The hammer is thus held by the auto sear only. As soon as the bolt carrier moves completely forward the auto sear is released and the hammer set free.

Three-shot burst controls are also available. They consist of an intricate ratchet-counting device fitted to the trigger mechanism, which holds the sear off the hammer until the allotted number of rounds bave been fired. The device ensures that only the correct number of rounds are fired in a single burst and any interruption commences a new count. After each burst the trigger must be released to set the counter back to zero. Although the burst mechanism is reliable when maintained properly, it adds significantly to the number of parts in the trigger mechanism. Furthermore, it is in my opinion a superfluous feature on this weapon, as its 800-875 rpm cyclic rate permits experienced operators to fire two-shot bursts with ease. U.S. Navy SEAL Team 6 experienced a serious accident during a training session as a consequence of improper disassembly/assembly of the 3-shot trigger unit, and discarded this option.

There are now four trigger units available for the MP5 series. All have housings fabricated from a two-piece synthetic molding. The standard "SEF" group provides safe, semiauto and full-auto positions with a selector lever on the left side only. Its pistol grip has finger swells, while the others do not but are flared at the bottom in the front to prevent the firing hand from slipping downward. The so-called "U.S. Navy" group offers the same three positions but uses bullets rather than numbers or letters for markings and is ambidextrous (a selector lever on each side of the housing). There is also the ambidextrous, four-position, 3-shot burst group.

The MP5 SF (single fire) carbine's ambidextrous trigger group has only two settings and will fire only in semiautomatic (this foolishness at the behest of the FBI). In addition, a special selector lever and lockout key are available to prevent the "SEF" trigger group from firing in the full-auto mode. The selector lever on all of these trigger groups can easily be pushed downward with the thumb of the firing hand while retaining the correct firing grip. However, the lever cannot be rotated upward - back to safe - without shifting the operator's grip. This remains as the single legitimate ergonomic criticism of the entire Heckler & Koch series.

maybe a video is the answer:
http://www.arizonaresponsesystems.com/store/storevideo/pagestorevideo.htm
Gunplumber's Guide to Heckler & Koch Home Gunsmithing Video Vol. I & Vol II. Includes disassembly, reassembly, inspection, and repair of selected HK firearms. Volume I covers models 91 (G3), 93 (33, 53), 94 (MP5, SP89), PSG1, MK23. Covers factory guns only - does not cover building kit guns on aftermarket receivers). Volume II covers models MP5/SD3 and ambidextrous trigger pack, P7, USP, Benelli M1 Super 90, USC .45 Carbine, SL8-1. 12 hour two volume set $50 delivered USPS.

H&K 91,93,94
http://www.americangunsmith.com/armorers_courses.html
Typical of fine German engineering, the unique roller lock and fluted chamber system on the HK series of rifles provides excellent reliability and performance. For the first time ever, AGI gives you a look inside this rifle and clearly explains how the roller lock system works. A detailed demonstration of disassembly is given along with identification of two specific parts that should never be removed. Some rare US variants are shown along with a number of hard to find accessories including the .22 LR conversion kit. Applicable to H&K 91, 93 and 94 (MP5).

Course #107 91 min. $29.95 ($5 S/H
 
Before you dunk the can in an ultrasonic cleaner send an E-Mail to the guys at GemTech, I think they have some definate ideas about that. I am not in the office but I think their product info mentions the ultrasonic cleaners and warning about their use. Sorry I can't be more definate about it but I have been soaking my suppressors in Kroil, shaking them out and blowing them out with an air hose.
 
Thanks for all the help guys, I figured out how to take the trigger pack out.

The silencer portion is weird. This thing cant get wet? Dont navy seals use silencers and stuff, carrying them underwater?
 
Sorry Paul I was not clear I guess. It is not that the can can not get wet, some moisture is actually left from the powder burning. I think most of the solvents used in ultrasonic cleaners can harm some materials in a suppressor. Don't remember if it is only the aluminum cans or not, thats why I say you should ask first. I am wondering if there are reasons an ultrasonic cleaner may not be right tool for the job with some suppressors, I think GemTech had some words of warning in their manual.
 
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