Homemade Torque Wrench

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mwsenoj

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The attached pic is something that I dreamed up to help get me out to the range this Saturday morning. I have a new scope coming in and I dont have the extra cash to have a smith mount the scope and I dont have a torque wrench. I want to do this right since I finally got a decent scope for my Rem 700 SPS Tac and I wanted to know if my idea will work *well* What do you all think?


*things are not to scale in the image ;)
 

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Looks good - I assume you need 18 inch-lbs of torque? What size fastener are you torquing? Remember, keep your weight at a right angle to your lever.
 
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That'll never work unless you're torquing a left-hand screw. ;)

Seriously, I'm afraid you'll interfere with the torque too much just by holding the allen wrench up. It might be better to make a rig like that to "calibrate" your wrist so you'll know what 18 in-lbs feels like.
 
I have been mounting scopes without a torque wrench for about 50 years.
Never damaged a scope so far, or had one slip in the mounts.

It doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure out how tight you should tighten a scope ring screw with common hand tools.

IMO: You are more likely to do damage with that jury rigged hanging weight deal then you would just using the Allen Key and common sense.

rc
 
The goal in tightening a fastener to a prescribed torque is to obtain an accurate preload; torque is just the method of getting there. The problem with the torque method is that small variances in frictional factors result in big changes in the preload of the fastener. In fact, the actual preload will vary some +/- 25% using the torque method. But torque is still a more accurate method of preloading a threaded part than using the wrench-feel mehtod.
 
No,

That will not work either way unless you calculate the proper weight for the length of that particular allen wrench. The longer the wrench the more weight is felt by the bolt. It is a leverage thing.
 
Sometimes, I think that certain sports are not for certain individuals. Someone can be smarter than Einstein, yet have no common sense at all.

I also have installed many scopes over the 40+ years I have been shooting, and I have yet to use a torque wrench and yet to have any problems of overtightening or undertightening!
 
As others already stated, the length of the wrench must be a part of the calculation. It can be done but it wouldn't be worth it to me. I'd just buy the proper wrench.
 
I can see it now. :scrutiny:
Spend all this time, making sure every bolt is exactly as prescribed, then go to shoot, only to find that the crosshairs are crooked! :cuss:

I know, as, I have had to loosen rings on more than one occasion when tightening them down turned the scope a bit! Even when I went from left, right, left, right,etc. - I would have them tight and the scope had turned on me!

One thing I hate is a straight rifle with crooked crosshairs!
 
I will do it the way I always have, without the torque wrench, and all will be fine. Heck, most rings come with a free allen or torx wrench.
 
First off I agree with rcmodel and Friendly, Don't Fire!, but if you absolutly, positively think you have to use a torque wrench Harbor Freight has them at very reasonable prices.
 
Physics 101 eh?

Torque = Force X Radius
(or f*r*sin(theta) for you physics nuts)

18 in lbs of torque is 18lbs of weight hanging from a 1" allen key.

Or the same amount of torque can be had with 3 lbs and a 6 in allen key ;)

Or 1 lb and a 18" allen key, etc

Right hand rule people!
 
Sometimes, I think that certain sports are not for certain individuals. Someone can be smarter than Einstein, yet have no common sense at all.

I also have installed many scopes over the 40+ years I have been shooting, and I have yet to use a torque wrench and yet to have any problems of overtightening or undertightening!
I am not sure if you meant to imply that I, the OP, have an absurd lack of common sense, but I couldnt help from sensing that. Maybe I am way off base, if I am I apologize.

As far as common sense goes, common sense really comes from prior experience. Optics are sensitive equipment and I just payed more than three times the amount that I had payed for my previous scope and I was thinking more along the lines of your motto, "Anything worth doing is worth doing *right*" My last scope came loose from the picatinny rails after I took the common sense approach and hand tightened. I am still new to shooting and I guess the point of asking is to draw on the experience of others.
 
Inch pounds and foot pounds are two different measurements. There are 12 inch pounds in one foot pound keep this in mind or you will seriously over torque something.
T
 
I am not sure if you meant to imply that I, the OP, have an absurd lack of common sense, but I couldnt help from sensing that. Maybe I am way off base, if I am I apologize.

As far as common sense goes, common sense really comes from prior experience. Optics are sensitive equipment and I just payed more than three times the amount that I had payed for my previous scope and I was thinking more along the lines of your motto, "Anything worth doing is worth doing *right*" My last scope came loose from the picatinny rails after I took the common sense approach and hand tightened. I am still new to shooting and I guess the point of asking is to draw on the experience of others.
I clean all the threads with alcohol to remove any oil. I then use Medium Loctite (blue) to assemble the mounts and rings. I do not tighten the rings until I am certain everything is perfectly straight and the eyepiece is the perfect relief distance for my eyes.

I have never had to torque anything except an engine head once when I rebuilt an L6 Flathead engine.

I suppose the more we do things, the more we get to the point where we say "if I twist this any more, the screw might break!" If I don't listen to that little voice, I will overtighten it and the screw will break. It happens every time, the last time it happened was two weeks ago, installing a light switch into an aluminum outdoor weathertight electrical box! I had to drill the screw out and use a larger diameter. So, I am not perfect, I try to learn by my mistakes. I suppose if it is that important to you, maybe you should allow someone to do it who has done it quite a few times!

I got to know the 'feel' of what different inch-pounds feel like, based on how long the handle is and how much pressure I believe I am putting against the handle!

I can say, for sure, that, the heavier the recoil, the more careful one must be to be sure EVERYTHING is tight! I just mounted two scopes in the past month on two .22's. One scope was $5, brand new Tasco, the other was a $39 Bushnell. I did not use Loctite, but I did tighten those babies! I never thought I would see the day of using something other than Leupold, but I digress, these will get virtually no knocking-around, banging, jarring, etc. and they both work!

If your gun recoils much at all, I would use just a very tiny amount of blue Loctite, using a toothpick to put just a tiny bit on the screw threads. That is how I have done it many times, when I did not want the scope to move! Some people don't like to use Loctite, which is OK, too! I think the important thing is tightening back and forth and all around evenly so you are not putting any undue stress in any one place from a really tight fastener while the others are still loose! Like I said below, also keep making sure the gun is vertical (or how you typically hold it if not perfectly vertical) and the scope's crosshairs are level (horizontally) and plumb (vertically).


PLEASE, let us know how you make out!
 
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I have installed the scope and it seems that everything is aligned well and fits me well. I did not use my dreamt up torque wrench since my uncle ended up having an in/lb torque wrench. As it turned out, his torque wrench was probably around 30 yrs old and was not accurate any more, so, ironically, I tightened up the rings by hand =) This all happened last night and I got up early and went to the range at sunrise where it was 89*F and about 70% humidity and shot from 6:15 til 9:00 and I ended up shooting the best that I ever have to date (just shy of an inch at 100 and just shy of 2" at 200yds, all using $5.97 a box/20. I have been shooting centerfire rifles for just 3 months now) I do think that next time I will try to check my torque with something like my dreamt up rig, but instead of using a weight hung on the end of the wrench I will use one of those hanging fishing scales to check on things.

Thanks for letting me know what you all think.

Matt
 

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Thanks for the update!
I am impressed that you are shooting such a good group, that is something you should be proud of! I think I would get more of those cartridges that shoot so well from your gun! Now, it is only a matter of making each shot count when hunting!
 
+1 Rcmodel. I too have been mounting scopes for a good 30 yrs. and have never damaged one or had one slip. I torque the screws down and back several times so I can get a feel for the torques stop point. I worry more about getting it perfectly level to the action, than over or under torqueing it. But I can respect anyone who is intent on getting it right, especially when dealing with an expensive piece of glass!
 
I help lots of others at the range.
I have hundreds of beater guns that barely work.
I help myself the most, and take lots of tools to the range.

More than half the problems I have and others have is lose scope mounts.

Not loose scope rings.
The rings are usually on tight to the scope and the rings are on tight to the mount.

It is the mount screws that fasten the mount to the receiver that get lose.

One of the problems is that to check those screws, one would have to take the scope or [scope and rings] off. That would loose the zero.

I have come up with a process of cleaning the screws and screw holes before I apply Loctite 242.

I have also come up with a process of scope tube to barrel alignment when glass bedding between mount and receiver.

I have also come up with a process for calculating how much torque to use on scope mounts.
 
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