Hornady lnl upgrades?

[thomas15]

Yes.

The bottom is where it touches/bottoms out on the frame. Make the part that the wrench fits thinner by filing on the bottom. Take everything apart. If I remember, C-clip, spring and plunger. DO NOT FILE THE PLUNGER, just the nut.

That is what I thought, take off the C-clip and disassemble and file. There is a bunch of discussion on this fix on Brian Enos forum some are taking it off the top which doesn't push the plunger deeper into the primer pocket.

Thanks k4swb

 

[DRAINSMITH]

I have the old style case feed funnel..can the old one be changed to the new style? I'm really not trying to be a pain in the ass...just have way to much invested in this press to let it sit and collect dust....I have spare time on my hands for a couple months before I have to go back to work and I figure now I might be able to work with the press and case feeder to get it running top notch.......maybe I should paint it all black...that would give me a different view of it...LOL

I have 4 Ammo-Plants setup on my bench 2 with the old case feeder and 2 with the new case feeder. If you time and adjust everything the old case feeder will work fine. Timing is everything on the AP. I have one press that I bought new about eight years ago, one used one I bought about six years ago, and two used ones that I bought about four years ago. All with the original retainer spring. All due to proper timing.

 

[choppertime]

but wouldn't it be helpful to have the newer style case feed funnel if you go from 9mm to 308...to be able to change the drop tube a little easier...instead of picking up the collater to change the tube?

 

[RealGun]

but wouldn't it be helpful to have the newer style case feed funnel if you go from 9mm to 308...to be able to change the drop tube a little easier...instead of picking up the collater to change the tube?

I am not following that. I can change drop tubes by releasing the top tube retainer ring, keeping the adjustment, if needed, by way of the bottom ring.

 

[k4swb]

Seems like we should decide if we are discussing upgrades from Hornady or the mods that have been thoroughly covered in earlier threads. Those subscribers set to "follow" this thread are getting posts that are off topic. Perhaps a couple PMs will settle the existing questions about mods to old parts.

If you have the power, blip anything I post. I've found it doesn't hurt any at all.

 

[DRAINSMITH]

but wouldn't it be helpful to have the newer style case feed funnel if you go from 9mm to 308...to be able to change the drop tube a little easier...instead of picking up the collater to change the tube?

It really does not matter when making caliper changes. I just lift both the old and new collater up. I originally took the funnel off of the new one but I broke a couple of the tabs that hold it on and went back to lifting the collater up about 2". The removable funnel is good for folks that have not been able to figure out how to get the cases to drop the right way down every time or get a jam.

 

[9mmepiphany]

It really does not matter when making caliper changes. I just lift both the old and new collater up.

That is what I do as well. I has never even occurred to me to detach the funnel...although I could see it being helpful if you had a bunch of cases jammed up in there

 

[choppertime]

Ok Hornady sent me some updated items......question is I have to replace a broken pawl,so I'm replacing both,what is a good starting point....is there a measurement to go by to start with or is it just a keep making small adjustments till its right

 

[Walkalong]

One of the mods done to the base was to knock off the corner where the cartridge retainer springs (around shell plate) drop down past station 4 for ejection at 5. Knocking/beveling that edge allows the spring to get out of the way earlier. This is not a factory mod but works very well.

What concern does this address / what benefit should one anticipate by performing this mod?
(I believe I've seen a pic of the finished mod {Walkalong}, but unclear on why it's done)
Thanks,

It cause the spring retainer to get out of the way earlier so ejection can accour without binding the brass on ejection. As you pick up speed this widely happened with the old wire ejector. It makes ejection smoother over all. As you spring gets kinks it prevents the spring from rolling out of the way as a new non-damage spring. So in turn it allows you to use a kinked spring longer with out malfunction.

https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/lnl-ez-ject-upgrade.464088/

(I went back and fixed the pics in the thread. Pre-software conversion thread pics don't show in the post like they should)

 

[Rule3]

Carefully take the punch assembly apart. Once the "nut" is stripped from it's innards, carefully sand, file or do whatever you need to do to take whatever is needed off the bottom to make the nut thinner. I needed to file mine down about .004", I think. Put it all back together and that should make the punch go that much further into the pocket thus seating the primer that much deeper.

It may also help to find a thin, hardened piece of steel, maybe a piece of hacksaw blade and super glue it onto the press where the bottom of the punch hits. This should take the dimple effect out of the press where the punch bottoms out.

Hope this makes sense and is helpful.

I do not understand this? Is this for older LnL presses?

I have a new one and it seats the primers fine??

 

[k4swb]

I do not understand this? Is this for older LnL presses?

I have a new one and it seats the primers fine??

The older LNL primer punches in SOME presses would not seat a primer below flush, if that much. Slimming the nut down fixed this.

The newer punches have been changed to fix the problem. Hornady sent me one each and the newer ones work as my older modified ones do.