Hornady Pistol Bullet Feeder: Big Performance Mod How To

[Tilos]

I really think the gears were made to be the "shear-pin" to prevent motor damage.....so metal replacements may not be that wise....so maybe PLA is good enough....yet I'm not convinced 3d printing would make accurate enough gears that would keep going. RushGears.com have stock Delrin gears that are exact in every way except that the drive gear on the Hornady is bored smaller than the other gear.....smaller shaft. The idler gear is exact, even the bore.....was wondering if someone makes sleeves to go from one bore size to the another.....that could be easily "printed". I printed RushGears cad drawing of the two gears on Autocad, printed them out 1:1 and they fit Hornady's gears perfectly. Even sprocket pin angles were exact.

The Hornady drive gear is "keyed" by a horizontal pin....which would have to be routed into a non OEM replacement gear....the idler just has to be retained....it spins on the shaft, a nut screws over the top.

I'm replacing both, since I discovered a missing spoke on the drive gear.....

RushGears will make a custom version of the drive gear....new bore and maybe even the horizontal key slot......just don't know how expensive that gets....haven't priced anything. Hopefully this is all moot with gears supposedly on the way from Hornady.

Is this the drive gear?:

You could file circular V notches in the pin, right at the shaft diameter, creating a weak point that would shear if extra torque is applied via a jam.
If that's not the drive gear, never mind

 

[Blue68f100]

I've been following this thread, very good work. I don't use any kind of bullet feeder, like to peak in the brass for powder.

I only have a original style brass feeder on my LNL-AP, which I need to start modifying or setup to print a new one. But currently it's not high on my must do list.

 

[AR-Bossman]

Lookie what I made..

.

 

[GW Staar]

Obviously, you figured out that was the drive gear. You mean you're going to post a picture and then not give the details! Shame on you. Here I've been searching for the cad drawing on Rush Gears for you. What software did you use? What drawing did you use? Dang it, I'm going to have to buy me a stupid 3D printer now....way to go!

Specs for the drive gear:

Part # FP2030
Pitch 20 (angle of teeth)
30 teeth
1.5 PD (pitch diameter)
Style A
Outside Diam 1.6"
PA 20
Bore .375" (this is the wrong bore for this one actual bore is smaller)
Face thickness .38"

https://www.rushgears.com/tech-tools/part-search/gears/type/replacement_parts
Go there, set the PA to 20, then click on cad, then pick 2d or 3d then pick drawing type (for which software you use)

 

[AR-Bossman]

I had to do some quick studying and guess my butt off. I'm doing the other gear right now. I could print off a few and send them to ya. Have em outta here by tomorrow just cover shipping.

 

[GW Staar]

More pictures on the Project.....

This picture shows the cutout that finally works on all four bullets....actually five as I added the Gold Dot .45 230 grain that was giving me fits. The metal piece under this was refined a bit and the cutout was lengthened so the big long G.D. had time to drop.....almost ready to order a piece of UH and make the final one.
The too big hole was covered with styrene card to give the switch good top support. Didn't have round head screws....trip to Home depot tomorrow will fix that.



Speaking of Bottom the little press in anchor pictured was something I had around....have no idea even where it came from, but it's dang convenient. I originally intended to make a bracket or something out of aluminum, license plate thickness.



Above shows the connections to the bullet die on the Pro 2000. This is specifically for .40 S&W. The next few pictures will describe the parts.
Coming down from the Feeder is 5/8" thin wall tubing. The connector is made from two pieces, one is 9/16", and 1/2" inside of that. The 1/2" is about 1/2" shorter than the 9/16" to give that Hornady spring tube a place to go in.....the recessed 1/2" stops the spring tube. I glued the two tubes together with super glue....it's real simple: you just drill a small 1/16, or 3/32 hole in the center of the outer tube, place the inner tube where it goes.... drop a drop of super glue in the hole........capillary action does the rest....all you need it that....once.



There you go. The 91/6" tube is only long enough to go to the end of the bottom tee.....you don't want it to go in front of the proximity switch....the one 5/8" tube coming down from the feeder is all you want through the Tee....one thickness for best sensitivity. The bullet drop just fine IF.......



You bevel the two tubes at the top to get rid of ridges. I used my RCBS case deburr/chamfer tool. Takes only a few seconds. What's the red? Electric tape wrapped around and around so the spring tube can't push this transition piece too far up encroaching on the switch. You could also glue a short 1/2" long 5/8" tube at the bottom....but I like the color. I will use that to color code the different calibers.....red for .40 green for .45, black for .357mag....you get the picture.

 

[GW Staar]

I had to do some quick studying and guess my butt off. I'm doing the other gear right now. I could print off a few and send them to ya. Have em outta here by tomorrow just cover shipping.

Be happy to try them.....just give me the details...will pm my address. Let me know the cost. These are PLA, right?

Below is the specs for the idler.

Part # FP2024
Pitch 20 (angle of teeth)
24 teeth
1.2 PD (pitch diameter)
Style A
Outside Diam 1.3"
PA 20
Bore .375" (right size for the idler)
Face thickness .38"

Again go to
https://www.rushgears.com/tech-tools/part-search/gears/type/replacement_parts
When there, set the PA to 20, then click on cad, then pick 2d or 3d then pick drawing type (for which software you use)

 

[GW Staar]

I've been following this thread, very good work. I don't use any kind of bullet feeder, like to peak in the brass for powder.

I only have a original style brass feeder on my LNL-AP, which I need to start modifying or setup to print a new one. But currently it's not high on my must do list.

Thanks.

You better not spend too much time with us.....what we have is catchy....

I peek in my brass with this Home Made video powder cop
www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/video-powder-cop-station-for-my-pro-chucker-7.840175/#post-10901064

Sort of a have cake and eat it too.

 

[jmorris]

You could file circular V notches in the pin, right at the shaft diameter, creating a weak point that would shear if extra torque is applied via a jam.

I was thinking a clutch would be the way to go. A few ways to go about it but if the printed ones work that’s an easier soultion for sure.

Depending on the motor you could also limit current, so it would stall vs break stuff, if it’s a large gear reduction it might take something fairly sensitive though.

 

[GW Staar]

jmorris....dense this morning....my brain doesn't compute clutch.....or where I'd put one. Will be interesting to see how AR's prints will work.

Many thanks to you for the inspiration on this project.....you've been at me for a few years to try a flipper style feeder. Now I wonder why I drug my feet at the idea......especially because the the way multiple calibers can be used with only an outlet tube converter change....a lousy 2 " length of plastic tube.....and the speed....wow.

AR-Bossman...What printer did you buy and how big is the max. modelling diameter?
Same as jmorris's?

 

[jmorris]

Just needs something that can slip before something else breaks.

I have used a double split set collars in the past to make very simple ones. The clamping force to the shaft spins the plate unless something were to jam up then it spins on the shaft.




Sometimes I need more force, so I just increase the clamping pressure until that doesn’t do it and I just add bearing surface to further increase friction.



If you could lower your motor and add another section of shaft this would do the trick.

 

[GW Staar]

Interesting stuff.....never seen that before. Lot's simpler than an automobile clutch.....or even a dry wall screw gun (which I do use for my case trimmer/chamfer/deburr Forster-based tool.)

 

[jmorris]

You can get lots better mechanisms for the job but that method works to keep things from breaking, on the cheap.

 

[AR-Bossman]

While messing around with these gears, I believe the Hornady has a "clutch", but it is finicky. So, as far as I can tell, the idler gear is actually riding on a sliding (left-right) shouldered bolt. If that bolt gets too tight, nothing moves. If it moves freely, when too much pressure is applied to the bullet plate, it moves out of the way and kinda skips along till the pressure lightens up and it will re-engage. It seems possible if someone, like myself, is in there messing around or that idler gets dirty and dry, it won't move and the gears will take the full brunt of that geared motor and goodbye plastic.

 

[GW Staar]

Is this the drive gear?:
View attachment 831143
You could file circular V notches in the pin, right at the shaft diameter, creating a weak point that would shear if extra torque is applied via a jam.
If that's not the drive gear, never mind

I saw the question "Is this the drive gear?" And I saw the picture....but I didn't notice the text following the picture until now! Then Ar-Bossman posted his picture of the drive gear he made, and I got confused. Thinking the question was answered by that, I went on and never saw that last idea......geesh.....you snooze you lose!

Now I see the idea Tilos presented! Sure why not!...you mean the cross pin through the motor shaft! Ahhh said the blind man! I think that might be as simple and easy to do as anything for backup insurance! Just make several back-up pins. Simpler than a clutch, I think. Thanks Tilos!

jmorris.....I've never seen a "double split set collars" system like you pictured...wouldn't know how such a thing works....I do, at least, understand shear pins....

I noticed your bullet feeder in the picture is way different than others with bullet flippers you've posted.....bullets rest side-ways like a case feeder. Interesting....

Ar-Bossman......I guess I never noticed what you did......just that it was geared down. You say there might be a built-in clutch.....if there is, it sure as heck didn't work.....just look at all the pieces in my hand......and it sure wasn't dirty....in fact just the opposite! Based on your observation, I'm going to take it all apart and check this new possibility out! Thanks!

 

[GW Staar]

Weekend is long past....and yes, I got gears Monday morning! Hornady came through with a set (far right next to the broken ones.)

And AR-Bossman made me 5! sets of them on his trusty 3d printer. I got the Hornady factory renditions about 10 AM from UPS and mounted them....worked fine of course, and I wanted a performance benchmark to judge the AR-Bossman's home grown specials.

They showed up about noon, so I went home and replaced the factory set with AR's. Did they work? Well yeah, matter O fact they did.....and maybe a tad smoother.......I left the 3D printed ones by AR-bossman on!.....and I have 5 backups for future catastrophes from my tinkering ways. Thanks AR-Bossman!




So no excuses left.....time to show what the new top fuel special modified Hornady Pistol Bullet feeder can do.....powered!

Two short videos of the hardest to achieve calibers, .45 Gold Dots 230 grains worth, then itty bitty .357 dia. 38 specials. The .40 Gold Dots and the 9mm hard balls were easy....didn't see the point in boring you with 2 more videos of much the same thing. Anyway here they are:


The .45 acp video stopped because the tubes were filled and the switch worked as it should!

.38's emptied completely because the disconnected tube to the feeder die just emptied into a bottle. Pretty fast.....for a Hornady.
Picture below shows the connections below my proximity switch for .45 caliber. The key to flawless proximity switch performance with any caliber bullet is the angle. The angle allows all bullets to lie on the switch side against it on the way down.


Last picture is of the parts typical of a caliber change.....all outside the feeder bucket and past the switch ..... no variation in caliber effects the switch.
Transition from switch to flex tube, transition from flex tube to feeder die, and of course the feeder die:


This project has been the simplest, cheapest project yet....and worth every second of the time it took. Need to acknowledge AR-Bossman, as he's part of the reason it stayed the cheapest! Would not take compensation for his switches!.....very generous soul, he is! Hope to be able to return the favor.......

Should acknowledge jmorris for the ideas and inspiration for these "nutty" kinds of projects....

And Tilos too.......he put me onto the idea, that maybe perhaps the gears don't have to break.....and it appears that perhaps AR-Bossman is right....there does seem to be a "slip" feature in the gear system, not working well. They seem to be working with his h.m. gears now.....go figure. Anyone notice the snap in one of the videos? That was a gear slip due to a minor hang.........will have to sniff out the cause of that hang......but at least it didn't break the gear.

 

[AR-Bossman]

I wish Hornady could see what could have been.

 

[GW Staar]

Hornady can see it if someone tells them to look here! But even if they are interested, I doubt they can do much without copyright infringement.....at least not yet.

I have to reemphasize that these last two calibers I videoed were by far the hardest to make work without hangs......I believe that is because of the wide tips. The .357 diameter was the smallest that I'll go with that platter. .223 for example is just too small.

I know I mentioned developing a rifle capability for this....but I changed my mind. That would be too much alteration.....meaning I don't want to take the time to break down the tool to change from pistol to rifle calibers every time I need to load one or the other. I would rather build another dedicated home printed feeder for that. I know Dillon's case feeders are parted to do that.....but I wonder how many people like the hassle to change it out each time.

Point is, I have my Pro 2000 for pistol, now with it's own case and bullet feeders.....and a Pro Chucker 7 for rifle.....so far with it's own tube-fed case and bullet feeders....and maybe I'll do collators for it someday using a 3D printer.....next winter? We will see.

 

[GW Staar]

I was just thinking about DrainSmith. He has the right idea for convenience, 2 presses for pistol (using 2 Hornady Pistol Feeders) and 2 presses for Rifle (using 2 Rifle Feeders).

Borrowing his picture from another THR thread (LOVE this picture):


But not all can afford 4 presses. Nor are we all willing to take that much space....I'm going to settle for one of each.

Hornady's rifle feeder has the same hopper feeding mechanism as the pistol (except for the DC motor), but feeds to a different die setup that feeds and seats in one station. Perfect for 5 hole presses, but not needed for my 7 hole press. Yet the hopper, I would think, could still be improved to the more efficient and quieter bullet flipping method....if one wanted to.

But for me the best way to go would be with a 3d printed hopper/flipper, especially since I don't need to feed and seat in the same station.....and I have and love the new RCBS rifle bullet feeder die that includes an "M" die! Wow....that's 3 stations! decadent waste .... oh but so efficient and smooth....spoiled? probably...but Drainsmith wins the pretty and functional reloading room contest.

 

[GW Staar]

I had a little problem with little .357 hollow points....158 grainers. Nobody looked close enough at my last .357 video.....to notice the first or second bulled flipped alright, but it flipped the WRONG direction! It was weird....only one bullet in a batch, yet it nearly always happened! The fix? I had to build up the bullet drop-and-turn area, just a tad. I accomplished that with super glue and quick set catalyst, and a little finish grinding.

Seems that the drop-down area was 1/16" too far, towards the center.....and those hollow points were too rounded at the bases to always catch and stay upright. Amazing how sensitive that area's design is......

Anyway this is the last video for this project.....I added a little 2-video playlist on YouTube by request.....this is the 2nd one....a whole minute long......the time it took to collate a whole box of these little pain-in-the-ass hollow point bullets.

Now it collates 9mm, .357, .40S&W, .45ACP.....even the stooopid 230 grain Gold Dots.....the other pita bullets to make work. Anyway....DONE! Successful too.



BTW......the only parts that change during caliber changes are these.....

They go between the switch below the bucket, and the Press die plate.

 

[AR-Bossman]

That thing is so crazy fast. Can you imagine a machine that actually needed that kind of speed. You'd need a dumptruck hopper to keep it full.

 

[GW Staar]

It is! Very happy with it. Still on the first printed gears you made for it......plenty happy with those too! Thanks!

 

[jmorris]

Looks like it works great!

The hardest bullet I have had to collate were 100 grain hollow base bullets. The closer the height gets to width, makes them more difficult, then throw in reduced mass at the bottom and they get even more tricky.

 

[GW Staar]

Looks like it works great!

The hardest bullet I have had to collate were 100 grain hollow base bullets. The closer the height gets to width, makes them more difficult, then throw in reduced mass at the bottom and they get even more tricky.

Yes, those look fun (not)! Thanks for your video......I noticed a one positive for the Hornady's big diameter bucket........many, many more holes to cut......and therefore more bullets drop per revolution! It's no wonder it makes it faster.

That said, it a moot point since we can't reload that fast.

Also your video demonstrates why I had to "pre" drop the bullets part way to help get them out of the way before the next sprocket pushes the bullet against the side and binds. Yours has more time to drop.....but the pre-drop worked thank goodness....and really was only necessary on the big heavy bullets.....they had trouble with inertia.....