How do I know if I swaged 5.56 correctly?

Bosn Ski

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Apr 16, 2019
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Virginia Beach, VA
I am using the Lee APP and the Lee APP Primer Pocket Swager. https://leeprecision.com/primer-pocket-swager I have a Burstfire Guns Go-No-Go small primer pocket gauge too.

I set up the Swager per the instructions and ran several crimped cases. The gauge inserts into the pocket smoothly without force. It's about the same resistance on a non-crimped case.

Before I go too much farther, do I need to test with a live SRP? (Haven't made that purchase yet...) SPP? Used SPP??
I don't want to go through my 5-gallon bucket only to find out that I didn't do it right.

Anybody else using the Lee APP and Lee Swager?

Any reloaders here in Hampton Roads?

Thanks
Ski
 
How do you know? That's easy. The primers seat just below flush every time. They don't deform, they don't crush. Oh, and they don't fall out.

I have the first version of the tool.....at first it was iffy......then I read the directions better. Worked great. Supposedly they improved it with the new version.....if it's supposed to be better than the first version, all the better.;

But I would like to know why they changed it, and how they changed it, and why and if I ought to upgrade. It's not like it's that expensive to upgrade. That said, I'm never opposed to easier, better, more efficient. ;) Comments anyone?

Maybe the why was people like me.....who don't study directions unless they have to.
 
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You can't guess if the primers will fit correctly, you have to seat a primer to see.
Don't overdue the process. All you want to do is swage out the excess case material to restore the pocket. Don't remove too much and no gauge necessary. Swage out the pocket and seat the primer. If it's snug without having to deform the primer you are done.

I do not suggest you play with the primer pockets without having primers on hand. You need to use a live primer since fired primers which are removed from brass are not the same size for the most part.

BTW, are you sure the entire 5 gallon bucket brass all have a military crimp?
 
I don't swage any primer pockets. I just seat primers all the way to the bottom of the pocket forceably. I don't mess with "below flush measurements" just make sure all are seated completely. I cannot remember any primers seated too deeply, FTF...
 
I use these:
I think they’re similar to your tool. The reason for those gauges is so you don’t have test with a real live primer. While I admit I had a 5 gallon bucket as well, and was trimming swaging it all, I did have SRPs on hand to try a few but it was unnecessary. If you’ve tested properly with the go no go gauges, you’ll be fine. If you want, an SPP has the same dimensions as an SRP. I wouldn’t use a used primer, it may be deformed a bit.
 
I have a 300 aac case stuck on my decapp tool for the App 1st gen. not the first time either, BUT yes you will need to use a primer, could perhaps try with a used one if you dont have any., but then take it out again. thats what I did before potentially wasting a good one. I usually try and run one in the case if it is a factory case with a ring crimp and not a converted 5.56 with the 4 bar crimp, those I def run through the decapp. But even soem of the ring ones need to be decapped for me...
 
I use these:
I think they’re similar to your tool. The reason for those gauges is so you don’t have test with a real live primer. While I admit I had a 5 gallon bucket as well, and was trimming swaging it all, I did have SRPs on hand to try a few but it was unnecessary. If you’ve tested properly with the go no go gauges, you’ll be fine. If you want, an SPP has the same dimensions as an SRP. I wouldn’t use a used primer, it may be deformed a bit.
I use those too. They work well.
 
Baton Rouge Louisiana ...
You know it's done when you can seat a new primer without crushing it .
In my 50+ years experience with crimped primers a swagger will allow some spring-back of brass at times and thus not do a proper job moving the crimp out the way . Swage them then use a Reamer to finish cutting the crimp away ... I usually finish-up mine with a Lyman Primer Pocket Uniforming Tool ... it cuts eac pocket to a uniform diameter and depth .
After doing the crimped primer three step ...Swage - Ream - Uniform ... you are done for the life of that case !
Gary
 
I use a set of primer pocket go/no go gauges when setting up my Dillon super swage. Usually when switching between 223 and 9mm. Been working great for years.
 
I don't swage any primer pockets. I just seat primers all the way to the bottom of the pocket forceably. I don't mess with "below flush measurements" just make sure all are seated completely. I cannot remember any primers seated too deeply, FTF...
You have to swage crimped primer pockets. Or chamfer them. I know that with my dillon super swage, you can definitely feel it when it's working and you definitely feel it when you get a primer pocket that isn't crimped.
 
Fer nigh onto 30 years I have been cutting primer crimps out, starting with a 60 degree x 1/2 HSS countersink with 1/4" hex shaft. (lifelong machinist/mechanic and I had several in my tool box) Of the thousands of crimp removals, I have had zero problems. Never any crooked, too much or widening pocket. I have read and heard of swaging gone wrong, crooked pockets, inconsistent swaging, etc.
 
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