How do you seat your caps your revolver?

[AbitNutz]

I seem to be getting too many soft primer strikes, at least one or two per cylinder. You know, you drop the hammer on it once and nothing, and then on the second strike it goes off. I always figured I'm just not seating them well enough. So I make it a practice to push down hard with a wooden dowel. Still no joy. I guess the combination of my light hammer spring and RWS 1075 caps was going to be a problem...

Then I saw a guy named Paul Harrell on a youtube suggest a method of seating the primer caps that I'd never heard of before. He said to seat each primer with the hammer of the gun. He said to rotate the cylinder around and press forward on the hammer on each primer.

So I tried it...it worked, It worked like a charm. I seated each cap just as I normally would with my snail capper and then pushed forward with the hammer with my thumb, muzzle pointed down range of course. I did not have a single failure to fire.

 

[Fingers McGee]

Using the hammer to seat the caps is not safe, and is outlawed in SASS matches. Most people I know us an antler tip, short starter, or a length of dowel.

I use a Ted Cash revolver/snail capper to install and seat the caps in one operation. Takes some practice; but, I don't have misfires from poorly seated caps.

 

[Crawdad1]

That's the absolute first thing I get rid of when I buy a revolver, the factory nipples. The after market nipples are so much better, light years ahead of those factory nipples and I never have problem seating caps. They just slide right on and a light push with the thumb and they're seated.

 

[rodwha]

I place them on by hand and that's it. My ROA has ToTW nipples and my Pietta NMA has OEM nipples. Works every single time. But then I switched to Rem #10's. Prior to that I used CCI #11 Mags and had the issues you described. Rem #11's needed pinched.

 

[Tommygunn]

I just put them on by thumb, never had a problem with Uberti, Pietta, or any other make.

 

[AbitNutz]

The RWS 1075's are for lack of a better word...mushy. They seem to be softer and tend absorb the hammer strike rather than setting it off.
The Remington caps I have are noticeably harder and do not suffer the same problems as the RWS's.

That being said...the RWS caps are significantly more powerful than any other cap I've tried, Remington, CCI, etc. This is important to me because I use Triple Seven black powder substitute almost exclusively and T7 is more difficult to light. So I seem to have a choice between hang fires and soft strikes. I'm probably exaggerating things. I suspect that the Remington caps would ignite T7, I've just always went by the recommendation of Triple Seven to use the hottest caps available.

 

[JT-AR-MG42]

+1 with Fingers.
I use a downward motion when pulling the Ted Cash capper
away from the cylinder.

JT

 

[J-Bar]

It sounds like you are determined to seat your caps with the hammer. It is going to go bang one of these days. I hope you are paying attention to muzzle direction when it happens.

In my opinion you would be safer to find nipples that fit the caps you want to use. In my experience 777 ignites easier than Pyrodex in revolvers. I never had any trouble with loose granular 777 ignition using Remington 10s. I just don't use 777 because it's more expensive.

 

[rodwha]

The RWS 1075's are for lack of a better word...mushy. They seem to be softer and tend absorb the hammer strike rather than setting it off.
The Remington caps I have are noticeably harder and do not suffer the same problems as the RWS's.

That being said...the RWS caps are significantly more powerful than any other cap I've tried, Remington, CCI, etc. This is important to me because I use Triple Seven black powder substitute almost exclusively and T7 is more difficult to light. So I seem to have a choice between hang fires and soft strikes. I'm probably exaggerating things. I suspect that the Remington caps would ignite T7, I've just always went by the recommendation of Triple Seven to use the hottest caps available.

Use use Rem #10's and have had no issues with quick ignition of T7 or Pyrodex in either revolver I own. My ROA wears ToTW nipples and my NMA wears stock Pietta nipples.

It seems the packaging claimed 40% hotter but the tins don't make such a statement. Seems it's said that for the last few years when I began using them due to ignition issues with CCI #11 Mags needing a second strike.

 

[Panzerschwein]

I use a small wood dowel.

 

[BullRunBear]

I use a Ted Cash snail capper on Colts and ROAs with no problem and rarely have to hit the cap twice. The cap notches on the Remington 1858s are too narrow so I place them by hand and use a small dowel or tip of a chop stick to seat them. Glad I don't have to load a Remington in a hurry because handling individual caps with my big old fat fingers is a challenge.
Jeff

 

[Malachi Leviticus Blue]

Use of firearms involves inherent risks. What danger is it that you all see as an unacceptable risk with the OP's method? It has been stated that the muzzle is pointed in a safe direction (down range). Obviously it would be possible for your thumb to slip off the hammer. However, if pointed in a safe direction, and if you are prepared for that possibility, this risk seems easily managed.

I do agree that utilization of caps that fit the nipple properly would be the preferred choice for me.

 

[J-Bar]

However, if pointed in a safe direction, and if you are prepared for that possibility, this risk seems easily managed.

A discharge from a gun caused by seating the cap with the hammer is an unintentional unaimed shot. It is hard for me to accept the idea that any unexpected or unintentional discharge can ever be a completely safe one. I simply don't like to hear anyone say, "Oops!" after a gun goes bang. Gasses escaping from the barrel-cylinder gap and from the nipple are concerns as well, since the shooter likely has his off-hand helping to hold the gun, manipulating the cylinder. Seating the cap with the hammer ensures that any accidental discharge will make the ball go down the barrel with full power. Such a discharge is completely avoidable by seating the cap at the capping slot rather than using the hammer. I personally use a small wooden dowel. An unsharpened golf pencil, with or without eraser is a cheap tool. If the cap ignites and the chamber fires out of battery, the ball will have very little velocity and is unlikely to cause any damage. I'm sure you have seen the research related to this, but perhaps others on the Forum have not:

http://www.brimstonepistoleros.com/articles/capping.html

 

[Crawdad1]

These guys shoot these revolvers all the time, they're the experts.

"Case one, the seating of caps with thumb or finger pressure (or any other body part). The ignition of a cap while seating it, seems to be a very remote occurrence (I can only find three cases that may be true). In order to press the cap with the thumb, the revolver will generally be held parallel to the loading bench or muzzle somewhat down. A ball launched from the cylinder in this position will pose a minimum threat to other shooters. The thumb or finger used to seat the cap will likely require medical attention. The explosive force of a percussion cap is considerable.

Case two, the use of the hammer to seat caps. This is without doubt, a most dangerous practice. A visit to most any CAS range will present an array of loading tables with bullet holes, and chunks of wood blown away by the accidental discharge of a firearm while loading. The vast majority of these ADs are from handguns, discharged while attempting to index them.

The act of seating caps with the hammer is an accident waiting to happen. The probability of a “slipped hammer” accidental discharge is extremely great. Such an accident will loose a full energy projectile! I can think of no greater hazard to the other shooters in the area (It is also a basic violation of SASS policy to lower the hammer on a loaded chamber).

Case number three, the use of a “push stick” seems to offer the greatest overall range safety. If a chamber discharge did occur , the projectile from the “out of battery” position will have very little energy, and therefore be less likely to do serious harm to another shooter in the area. Further the use of a “push stick” will keep the hand of the shooter loading the firearm, in a much safer location."


That is why I spend the money to buy good nipples for my revolvers. I want this last step of loading, When you're dealing with a fully charged chamber, to go as smoothly and safely as possible. I slip the cap on and if it takes more than a slight push with thumb or finger to seat firmly I go immediately to a wooden 'push' stick.

 

[Malachi Leviticus Blue]

...It is hard for me to accept the idea that any unexpected or unintentional discharge can ever be a completely safe one...

There isn't much if anything in this life without risk, including when it comes to firearms. However I think I get your point. I would definitely prefer to avoid that kind of excitement.

...The act of seating caps with the hammer is an accident waiting to happen. The probability of a “slipped hammer” accidental discharge is extremely great. Such an accident will loose a full energy projectile! I can think of no greater hazard to the other shooters in the area...

I think "Pointed in a safe direction" is relevant. Your example seems to imply a loading station "behind the lines" where it is doubtful an actual safe direction is practical. When you are able to load on the line and/or without bystanders the hazards could be substantial mitigated. I can see where this could be a big problem at a SASS shoot with people everywhere, but in the real world (possibly Hunting for example) there could be situations where, with prudence, the technique could have merit if it does in fact increase reliability of ignition.

The OP has already indicated that seating with a wooden dowel has not eliminated his miss fires.
I would still recommend turning down the nipples to fit or replacing them as a preferred solution.

 

[DD4lifeusmc]

I guess over the years I've used about every cap that has been made since the 60's
I use an inline capper I bought in the 70's I just push them on and shoot.
while they could detonate using the hammer to push them on, very doubtful. They need to be hit with force. It's an impact explosive not friction. But you should still use caution,
I'd make sure the nipple and caps correctly fit each other, make sure there isn't too much end play in the cylinder and the hammer face is striking square on the nipple.
You shouldn't have to push them hard.

 

[Oohrah!]

I use a snail capper, and just shoot. For Cowboy shooting matches, I've started using cap-keepers I cut from IV tubing. I never had a cap jam or lost cap since starting that.

 

[Oohrah!]

On a related note, what is the opinion of capping a loaded cylinder before installing it on the gun?, i.e the hammer is in the half-cock position, 5 chambers are loaded, then the cylinder is spun to the empty cylinder before lowering the hammer.

 

[J-Bar]

On a related note, what is the opinion of capping a loaded cylinder before installing it on the gun?, i.e the hammer is in the half-cock position, 5 chambers are loaded, then the cylinder is spun to the empty cylinder before lowering the hammer.

What do you gain by doing it this way?

Carrying a capped loaded cylinder out of the gun is less safe than having it in the gun. If the capped cylinder is dropped and lands on a cap a chamber could fire...a completely uncontrolled discharge. While the ball will not be leaving the chamber with much force, I don't see how it can be considered a safe discharge. Why perform an act that is less safe?

SASS safety rules forbid carrying a capped loaded cylinder outside the gun at a cowboy action match.

Leave the Pale Rider/Clint Eastwood cylinder swap as Hollywood fantasy. If you are going into a gunfight, use something other than a percussion revolver.

 

[Fingers McGee]

What J-Bar said +1

 

[jeepnik]

I just do it the way folks did it back when these things were new. Give it a slight pinch between the forefinger and the thumbnail. Then push it on with my thumb.

 

[daboyleroy]

I am with Fingers,Crawdad1, and J-Bar

 

[whughett]

Wonder how our ancestors ever lived long enough to get the rest of us to this point. Hard to believe a civil war solider or a cow puncher carried all these snail drum cappers, bits of antlers, dowel rods ect. . Thumb and hammer was good enough for Elmer Keith, works for me.

 

[J-Bar]

Wonder how our ancestors ever lived long enough to get the rest of us to this point. Hard to believe a civil war solider or a cow puncher carried all these snail drum cappers, bits of antlers, dowel rods ect. . Thumb and hammer was good enough for Elmer Keith, works for me.

A cowboy action shooter with the alias "Cuts Crooked" might disagree. A photo of his thumb injury caused by an igniting percussion cap has made the rounds before. The thread and photo have already been seen on THR at least once:

https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...t-use-my-finger-thumb-to-seat-the-cap.649105/

For those who have not seen it, here is a screenshot taken from the CASCity thread.

Your thumb, your choice.

 

[Ephraim Kibbey]

Our ancestors were not trying to support so many lawyers nor so many folks suing everyone else for their own ineptitude. SASS must have the ambulance chasers giddy with expectations so they must have rules. If you fail to follow those rules and you blow something off that you wish you hadn't, they have deniability. "We wrote the rules for your protection, you read the rules, you broke the rules and now the result is on you not us!" There is no crying in the Single Action Shooting Society! Or was that Baseball?