How did you pull them without damaging the primer? Just wondering...
Wrong term, you
PUSH them out
GENTLY with a FL, neck or universal decapping die. Key word is
gently.
1. In order for primers to fire, they must be held securely in the pocket of the brass case that is chambered in the appropriate firearm, then hit hard by a pointed firing pin.
2. Or they must be smashed by a hammer against something heavy.
3. Or heated to at least 500 degrees,(a guess).
4. Crushing them like when they get pushed in sideways won't set them off.
To kill a primer is just about impossible. Water soaking only works if they're kept wet. Drying water soaked primers will make them active again. Oil woks for a while but usually results in a reduced pop, not enough to light the powder. Penetrating oil, the same erratic ignition. All
MODERN primers have a sealant applied to the top of the assembled primer, or to further explain to the top of the anvil. What do you think causes the color coding to each primer? It's a lacquer based paint. This thin film keeps out most things that will cause the primer to be inert. I remember being cautioned when I first starting loading back in 1962 NOT to handle primers with my fingers, the oil on my fingers,(lanolin), would cause the primers to not fire!
Primer "dust". That myth rears it's ugly head again! The priming compound/pellet is inserted wet. It is pushed in with pressure to fill the entire bottom of the empty cup, every bit of it. Then it is covered with a paper disc, then the anvil is placed on top of that paper disc. Then it is covered with that lacquer sealant. Now where does that primer dust come from? My guess is there's a magician conjuring up the dust from an unknown source.