How do you unscrew a stuck (loctited?)ejector rod?

[Master Blaster]

The title says it all please share your method for unscrewing a stuck ejector rod. I can't seem to get mine unscrewed on my S&W 629 (circa 1981) I suspect maybe locktite was used, I tried putting it in a bench vise paded with leather and I turned the cylinder ( full of fired cases ) opposite the direction it rotates in the gun, no luck.

So what trick works for you all.

Thanks

 

[loneviking]

For Loctite (or most of these products) heat is what works. I'd suggest a gunsmith, but if you try it yourself, get a small butane torch. Carefully heat and work the end of the extractor just under the star. The metal doesn't have to be hot enough to turn color or detemper, so go very slowly and carefully. Heat it for a few seconds, try turning the extractor, repeat.

 

[isp2605]

The ejector rod has left hand threads. Make sure you're going the correct way.

 

[memphisjim]

show up at your buddies house (that is gunsmith inclined)
with a 12pack of americas favorite lager

 

[MMCSRET]

I use a heat gun to release locktite. The $30.00 B&D home model works, doesn't get as dangerously hot as a torch, takes a little longer but safer for a clutz like me.

 

[Master Blaster]

I have heard folks use a drill chuck to unscrew an ejector rod, anyone here use that method? I have a drill press, and I also have a very large chuck with a key that has a tapered spindle on it for a lathe. I hesitate to use that because I am afraid I will score the rod, are my fears unfounded? Will using a chuck be less likely to damage the rod than my vise padded with leather?

I have taken ejector rods apart on S&W revolvers before, but never had one stuck like this one is. I am afraid to force it (yes I know its a left hand thread (mfg 1981). I need to put a couple of shims in to fix a case of factory installed endshake.

Thanks

 

[earplug]

A dollar bill works well to pad the ejector rod if you put it in a vice or chuck.

 

[csmkersh]

I'd use a piece of heavy leather in a vice.
​

 

[ThomasT]

Brownells sells at tool made to clamp around ejector rods. Thats what i would use.

As mentioned before. Make sure you re turning it the correct direction. Older S&Ws have right hand threads and newer have left hand threads.

 

[machinisttx]

I have heard folks use a drill chuck to unscrew an ejector rod, anyone here use that method? I have a drill press, and I also have a very large chuck with a key that has a tapered spindle on it for a lathe. I hesitate to use that because I am afraid I will score the rod, are my fears unfounded? Will using a chuck be less likely to damage the rod than my vise padded with leather?

I would only use the drill chuck method if it was a new or little used chuck. Most of the time, drill chucks will end up with jaws that are scarred/burred/etc. from drills and other stuffing spinning in them. The other reason I'd only do it with a new or little used chuck is that older chucks tend to have splayed jaws from people over tightening them repeatedly.

 

[hornsmoker]

Try PB Blaster and let it soak overnight.

 

[Sunray]

"...For Loctite (or most of these products) heat is what works..." Yep and not much. 10 seconds or so, if that much, with a regular propane torch will do nicely. So will a BIC lighter.

 

[Stainz]

End shake? Call S&W (800-331-0852) - they'll send you a return label for paid pick-up & shipping. They'll stretch the yoke - or whatever is required - without shims. Get it fixed right. They can get that ejector loosened, too - of course. They may not even charge you, as several 'endurance enhancements' have occured since then. The 'shims' are a home-shop patch - they'll fix it right!

Stainz

 

[Master Blaster]

Last night I hit the rod with a torch for about 10 seconds and was able to unscrew the rod using my wood jaw padded vise.
I didnt find any evidence of loctite on the threads. I think my problem was not tightening the vice enough to keep the rod from turning while I turned the cylinder.

I checked the end of the cylinder and the end of the yoke for any scarring and there was none, apparently the factory let this gun out the door with a Yoke that was 2/1000 short hence creating one way end shake. The gun is a Pinned and recessed 629 made in 1981 and is tight in every other dimension. The 1st owner probably fired very few rounds from this gun. I added one .002 power custom end shake bearing and it eliminated the endshake problem and now I have a nice even BC gap. I have read that the shims are more durable than yoke stretching since they are harder.

Thanks to all for your help.