How do I fix a S&W model 10 ejector rod not latching properly

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Riss

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I got an old Victory model S&W, the model 10, last week. I noticed that the ejector rod was not properly latching and was slightly bent. Got it straightened and it still is not latching all of the way. What else could be the cause and how do I fix it ? I smoothed out the latch end of the ejector rod on a lathe since I had it in there to straighten it. Hole in rod and locking piece line up, but still will not latch all the way. It also seems to jump out of engagement when I shoot it. Which could be really bad if the cylinder comes unlatched as the bullet is fired. Where else should I look on the gun, what else could be the problem ?
 
You are really dealing with several things at once.
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/sc...?schemid=571&m=15&mn=Smith+&model=K-Frame+10+

First, the center pin spring #7 inside the ejector assembly has to be there and strong enough to push the thump piece bolt #3 back in the recoil shield all the way to lock the center pin #6 at the rear.
The thumb-piece bolt spring #5 and plunger #4 have to be able to compress inside the thumb-piece bolt far enough to let the cylinder pin lock in the recoil shield.
That makes room for the front locking bolt to enter the ejector rod housing.

The front locking bolt & spring #31 & 33 have to have full travel inside the barrel lump in order to reach inside the ejector rod housing at lock-up. The bolt has to be able fit inside the ejector rod housing.

SO, you got three springs and two plungers, and one thumb piece, and one ejector rod housing to check.

rc
 
The locking bolt has full travel but I see does not fit inside the ejector rod properly. When I had the cylinder off I checked the fit. IF the locking bolt should fit all the way inside the ejector rod then possibly the rod needs to be bored out a hair. Will look at replacing all the springs. It has about a 20 lb trigger pull. Even the SA pull is hard. Smooth and tight, but heavy. The springs are light compared to my 686 which has not been used that hard. IF I need a new ejector rod, will a standard model 10 rod fit, or do I have to look for a certain revision number ? Or a specific Victory model rod ? Either way the springs are getting replaced. The gun is otherwise tight, with only 2 cylinders slightly out of time.
 
DO Not drill out the ejector rod housing.

Work the bolt down until it fits.
If you mess it up, you can make a new one out of a drill bit shank in about five minutes.

The same cannot be said of an ejector rod housing for a Victory Model.

New K-Frame parts will not work in your gun.

The newer ejecter rod housings are left-hand thread. Yours is right-hand thread.
The old long action is different internally then more modern short action guns.

I think the spring kits will fit, but a lot of the other parts will need to be old parts.

rc
 
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