How many 1050 on a bench?

[tightgroup tiger]

I want to put a couple of 1050's in a row, since I am sick and tired of readjusting my Hornady LNL every time I need to load for a different caliber.

Not that I have anything at all against a Dillon press but if you are tired of the total of 10 minutes it takes to completely convert calibers on a LNL-AP why don't you just buy another LNL-AP.

It looks to me like your just trying to make up a reason to go spend a hell of a lot of money on a pair of 1050 supers when just a second LNL-AP would fix your problem.

If you have your heart set on Dillons, there's nothing wrong with that but don't blame it on the Hornady, especially when a second Hornady would solve all your problems for only $400.00 versus $3300.00 for the pair of 1050s and how many caliber conversion kits @ $270.00 each. Two conversions and press mounts, and the rest of the goodies will get you North of $4000.00.

Doesn't make sense to me, but it doesn't have to. All I'm saying is if you blame it on the Hornady LNL-AP your logic for buying the Dillons isn't sound.

 

[jmorris]

I somewhat have to agree with TGT. It is a lot of money; however, if it is what you want and can afford it you will be happy..

I remember how 30 min was forever in grade school class. if/once you can swing the cost you will be happy with more equipment, if you go with Dillon you can always sell it for more than you paid for it down the road.

My first two SD's cost $130 ea and could sell for over $200 today.

You could always buy a motorcycle or RV and loose thousands in an instant, when you drive off the lot...

 

[Shrinkmd]

More fantasy on my part than actual plan, but I'd rather spend time loading than changing a press over. Although I agree about rethinking the Dillons and reconsidering another Hornady LNL AP. I think I posted elsewhere that my main motivation for the Dillon is the swager and primer seating on the downstroke to alleviate problems I had loading range brass in 9mm. For the purposes of revolver calibers, my LNL has done just fine.

 

[TxBobS]

While not trying to discourage your dream bench building, you shouldn't need to be making adjustments with the LNL. You just leave the die in the bushing, right? These... http://www.midwayusa.com/product/1165277407/hornady-lock-n-load-die-bushings I have them on everything that goes into the press.

 

[stu1ritter]

A second LnL takes care of the problem. The hardest part, especially if you have a case feeder is the primer anvil changeover and then resetting everything on the case feeder for the change in case size. I finally bought a second LnL and that really solved everything. Change-over is now pretty quick. One machine small primer cases (except small primer 45ACP's which I throw in the scrap brass can) and the other for large primer. I load .44 and .45
in the large and .32 and .38 in the small.
Stu

 

[Shrinkmd]

I load mostly lead bullets, so my main problem is switching over the powder through expander. Unless something has changed, I had nothing but tears from the Hornady ones, and the aftermarket PTX works great. Problem is, even with dedicated lower powder drops, it still isn't 100% repeatable. I'm experimenting with the new little part which goes around the powder spring, which lets you fine tune the case belling. I used to dread the primer changeover, but not so much anymore.

 

[stu1ritter]

Understood Shrinkmd. I played around with the powder through expander and then gave up. And, regarding the primer changeover, I'm a retired Mercedes-Benz mechanic and quite used to starting screw threads in the most unusual positions but that little primer anvil just gave me fits. You know what I mean.
Stu

 

[Muddydogs]

I load mostly lead bullets, so my main problem is switching over the powder through expander. Unless something has changed, I had nothing but tears from the Hornady ones, and the aftermarket PTX works great. Problem is, even with dedicated lower powder drops, it still isn't 100% repeatable. I'm experimenting with the new little part which goes around the powder spring, which lets you fine tune the case belling. I used to dread the primer changeover, but not so much anymore.

I use dedicated powder dies for my most loaded rounds and I find that they are 100% repeatable but what do I know as I think the Hornady PTX die is way better for seating lead bullets then the aftermarket one. All the after market PTX dies I have seen just bell the case at the mouth, the Hornady PTX expands the case below the mouth as well as flairs the case mouth for perfect lead bullet seating.

As for the not new new little part that goes around the powder spring, I think its called a PTX stop, this will help with repeatability and makes adjusting the PTX a breeze.

You posted that you didn't want to get into conversion kits, why not? Why not spend a few bucks to make a change over easy instead of spending big bucks on a bunch of presses? I can do a caliber with primer change over in 10 minutes if I need to its really not that hard and the more times you do it or adjust dies the easyer it gets to do.

 

[ole farmerbuck]

I must be doing something wrong. I use a 'belling' die and have never had any trouble. Am I missing something?

 

[Blue68f100]

Once the PTX stop is set, no need to ever adj it again. It's function is to take the load off the linkage. Without it you will eventually fail the connecting arm between the upper and lower. Mine failed after 20k rounds. Hornady sent me a new one plus the stop so this does not happen again. Buy the powder die for each caliber and use the main thread to adj. Once you take the time to get every thing adj this way, it's a simple parts swap and your up and running. No adj needed. If you change the PTX stop it will impact all your setups, best not to. So a complete caliber change requires you to swap the powder die too. Adds very little time to the change over but saves a lot of time getting things adj too. You can do the same the for the Powder Piston or use a micrometer head.

 

[noylj]

ole farmerbuck:
Yes you are. IF, and only IF, you are loading jacketed bullets can you skip case expansion and not have some problems.
The case ID, over the length the bullet is to be seated, needs to be 0.001-0.002" under bullet diameter.
Any smaller, and the cast/swaged/plated bullets can be either swaged down in size or they can be seated crooked and cause a bulge in the case where the off-center bullet is pushing out on the case wall.
If top-flight accuracy isn't your goal (say you shoot action pistol or just shoot at close distances), then you may be alright, as long as all cases chamber.
The elimination of case expansion and only performing case mouth flare/bell is one of the prime motivators for the Lee pistol FCD--it irons out the bulge from not performing proper case expansion.
This is also one of the prime reasons so many think that they have a tight chamber--they aren't properly expanding the case and the slight bulge is preventing chambering.
What doesn't help is that Lee and others call their case mouth flaring stems "Expanders." They are NOT expanders.
As for me, I get the "right" size expanders for my lead bullets--they are as-cast and tumble lubed and I do not want them swaged down (either by bullet sizing or bullet seating).
Also, I have never had a problem removing the powder measure and leaving the powder die/PTX in place in the bushing and returning right to where I was before.
Even better is buying a metering assembly for each and every per load so you can mount the measure in the powder die and drop in the already set metering assembly.

 

[Level10]

I prefer my 1050 on the right corner of the bench as to give more access to the back side for various reasons. Middle of the bench is doable but do not like leaning over bench or around the press. Personal Preference really. With that in mind..I would say no more than 2ct 1050s per bench with minimum 4-5' between unless you have a separate bench to work on for the miscellaneous items/presses/powder scale etc

 

[joed]

Not that I have anything at all against a Dillon press but if you are tired of the total of 10 minutes it takes to completely convert calibers on a LNL-AP why don't you just buy another LNL-AP.

It looks to me like your just trying to make up a reason to go spend a hell of a lot of money on a pair of 1050 supers when just a second LNL-AP would fix your problem.

If you have your heart set on Dillons, there's nothing wrong with that but don't blame it on the Hornady, especially when a second Hornady would solve all your problems for only $400.00 versus $3300.00 for the pair of 1050s and how many caliber conversion kits @ $270.00 each. Two conversions and press mounts, and the rest of the goodies will get you North of $4000.00.

Doesn't make sense to me, but it doesn't have to. All I'm saying is if you blame it on the Hornady LNL-AP your logic for buying the Dillons isn't sound.

Why 1050's? If you're going to be a bear, be a grizzly.

Don't like changes on the LnL, you'll like them even less on the 1050. Sometimes 30 minutes depending on what you had and what you're going to.

I've had a Dillon 550b, 650xl and a 1050. I think it took 10 minutes to change the 550B, maybe 15 on the 650 but an honest 30 minutes on the 1050.

But, after owning a 1050 I'll tell you it's top of the line. I have never seen a press produce ammo so fast.