How Many Problems With Pistols User Induced

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94045

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Disclaimer: Don't take this the wrong way. If you have a lot of problems with a lot of pistols and none are shooter induced (or even if all are) I'm sorry. I wish you were not having these problems.

I've bought dozens of pistols in the last few decades. I have very few problems with any of them. If I do they are things like magazines that are hard to insert when loaded without a lot of force or depressing release button (EC9S). Or a brand new magazine that is so tight the last few rounds were difficult to load with an UpLula and stopped the slide on each cycle which never occured again after first loading (P365). Or stops fully returning to battery after 400 rounds of particularly dirty ammo (P365). Or a brand new mag that loaded the last empty case back into the mag the first time through which was likely a burr that caused a stuck follower (LCP). Of course I have a few brand new pistols that wouldn't quite return to battery until a few rounds were cycled through due to tight clearances and a new chamber. But after a few rounds they fixed themselves.

If they are relatively clean, broken in and have proven ammo they have all cycled perfectly including a half dozen 1911's and a couple of Taurus.

It makes me wonder how many cycling issues are user induced. Am I just extremely lucky and they extremely unlucky or is the truth somewhere in the middle?

How many malfunctioning pistols are user induced?
 
I've had exactly two pistols that had to go back to the factory for issues in 30 years of buying guns, and neither was shooter induced.

But I recently joined a Sig forum for my P365 and I've seen a few instances of issues that were due to new shooters either not having a proper grip or didn't clean and inspect their new firearm correctly.

I suspect as more new shooters buy the sub-compacts, that a lot of problems are due to improper grip, technique, or not properly cleaning the weapon.

I did have a buddy who is a notoriously bad shot have me take his Ruger SP101 to the range to shoot since neither him or his wife could get it to group. Both my brother an I shot it and concluded that it was just an inaccurate gun. We could barely get 4" at seven yards. He and his wife were getting around a foot at seven yards. I think he just traded it for a different gun.
 
I unfortunately can’t give any data on this matter but I buy all my pistols used and can say I have never had any real problems with anything...ever.

They say variety is the spice of life but when it comes to my guns, I get what has a good reputation for flat out just working with no drama. Call me lucky but I am pretty astounded at how many problems people have with their guns in general on this site. Leads me to believe that expectations are too high, people are buying guns made to a price point and not guns made to a standard, or their problems are user induced.

I have, with few exceptions, only owned Glocks, 1911s, Browning Hi Powers, 3rd Gen Smiths, and Revolvers which probably don’t really count for the purposes of this thread.

I also have a lot of trigger time with Sig P22x pistols with zero instances of failure.

I see a trend. Older, proven designs in all instances. Do they have disadvantages? Yes and plenty of them. General ergonomics in the case of the Glocks and Smiths and heavier weight with all of them but the Glocks just to name a few. Will you be able to shoot an entire mag as fast as you feel like pulling the trigger every time? Yes and yes.

Change occurs with me very slowly and I have been thinking about buying an S&W M&P 9mm for my next pistol. I shot one at the range which had an Apex trigger and that gun was a really nice shooter.
 
Some are user induced, some are modification induced, some are a result of something that didn't come right from the factory, and some are the result of a previously-ok gun experiencing some breakage or wear.

There's really not any other reasonable way to answer this question.
 
Some older pistols require proper operation in order to function reliably ; the PPK comes to mind. Limp wrist a PPK in .380 or get hesitant when cycling the first round and you are asking for trouble.

Modern designs pretty much go bang unless there is a mechanical flaw. A person has to be REALLY limp wristed or otherwise out of touch/uncomfortable/stupid to induce a malfunction with a good quality modern semi-auto pistol.
 
Like Trey over the decades I've returned exactly two to the manufacturer.
A Taurus 85 that came with my wife some 20yrs ago. (Light strikes, crane was adjusted)
Glock 19g4 Bought when they first dropped and it was a single shot pistol. (Wouldnt extract, Glock sent a new pistol)

I will say the only guns in my safe that haven't had a malfunction, simply have not been shot enough. I dont make excuses for any failure regardless of the name on the side
 
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How many are actual problems with the gun and how many are shooter induced? Weeeelllll, what are we counting as shooter induced? Are we counting things done by Bubba the Dremel King? That's going to bump up the ratio of shooter induced errors. Are we also counting people that use inappropriate ammunition then are angry that their new gun won't feed any and all bullets they can find for it? Because, that will also jump up the ratio. We will also bump up the ratio with people that brag how their gun has gone 5k rounds without cleaning or oiling.. then suddenly it can't make it through a whole magazine without choking.


There is one however that I see all the time IRL and on the internet that is 100% shooter induced and often gets blamed on the gun: "This gun shoots low left, I need to get the sights adjuster" It's not the gun buddy.
 
How many are actual problems with the gun and how many are shooter induced? Weeeelllll, what are we counting as shooter induced? Are we counting things done by Bubba the Dremel King? That's going to bump up the ratio of shooter induced errors. Are we also counting people that use inappropriate ammunition then are angry that their new gun won't feed any and all bullets they can find for it? Because, that will also jump up the ratio. We will also bump up the ratio with people that brag how their gun has gone 5k rounds without cleaning or oiling.. then suddenly it can't make it through a whole magazine without choking.


There is one however that I see all the time IRL and on the internet that is 100% shooter induced and often gets blamed on the gun: "This gun shoots low left, I need to get the sights adjuster" It's not the gun buddy.

Well their are exceptions to every rule. I did have a .40 S&W that left a nice golf ball size hole two inches low left at 7 yards after several magazines. I couldn't really seem to fix it. Called a local instructor over and he looked at my form and asked, "Can I try the pistol for a moment?". He proceeded to take a nice solid rest and put 5 rounds right through the existing hole. "It's not you".

Disclaimer: The above is not to be construed as a claim to being immune to right hand shooters disease. I'm definitely susceptible.
 
It makes me wonder how many cycling issues are user induced
Probably a great many, especially depending on the type and size of the handgun.

But I recently joined a Sig forum for my P365 and I've seen a few instances of issues that were due to new shooters either not having a proper grip or didn't clean and inspect their new firearm correctly.
A lot of new autos are packed from the factory with some pretty thick grease or protective substance that absolutely needs to be cleaned off before shooting.

And for certain types of autos, the manner of gripping is huge.

A problem many first-time 365 users have is riding the slide stop or having the middle/base of the thumb on the slide. Guaranteed the slide won't lock back on an empty mag or the pressure from the thumb will impede the slide's reciprocating and create a failure to eject or failure to feed. Not an uncommon issue with sub-compact semi-autos. Even the full size SIG P-series guns have many first-time operators saying the slide won't lock back on an empty mag, but they're riding the slide-stop as a 1911 shooter rides the safety. The E2 grips are especially horrible for some (including me) because you either have to place your thumb underneath "the hump" which doesn't feel natural, or over it, which causes the aforementioned problem.

One rule that a guy who was an armorer for many types of semi-autos (and a pretty good gunsmith) used to tell me was, "The smaller the auto-pistol, the more often you clean and lube it." In other words, don't expect the miniature pistols to keep on firing without malfunction like it's a full-size pistol.if you're not cleaning the carbon and gunk out after a couple hundred rounds and keeping some oil on the slide rails. I've had small Kel-Tecs, Berettas, Brownings and a couple others that realistically could/should have been cleaned and oiled after just a handful of mags down the pipe, before I started moaning about the repeated malfunctions.
 
Probably a great many, especially depending on the type and size of the handgun.

A lot of new autos are packed from the factory with some pretty thick grease or protective substance that absolutely needs to be cleaned off before shooting.

And for certain types of autos, the manner of gripping is huge.

A problem many first-time 365 users have is riding the slide stop or having the middle/base of the thumb on the slide. Guaranteed the slide won't lock back on an empty mag or the pressure from the thumb will impede the slide's reciprocating and create a failure to eject or failure to feed. Not an uncommon issue with sub-compact semi-autos. Even the full size SIG P-series guns have many first-time operators saying the slide won't lock back on an empty mag, but they're riding the slide-stop as a 1911 shooter rides the safety. The E2 grips are especially horrible for some (including me) because you either have to place your thumb underneath "the hump" which doesn't feel natural, or over it, which causes the aforementioned problem.

One rule that a guy who was an armorer for many types of semi-autos (and a pretty good gunsmith) used to tell me was, "The smaller the auto-pistol, the more often you clean and lube it." In other words, don't expect the miniature pistols to keep on firing without malfunction like it's a full-size pistol.if you're not cleaning the carbon and gunk out after a couple hundred rounds and keeping some oil on the slide rails. I've had small Kel-Tecs, Berettas, Brownings and a couple others that realistically could/should have been cleaned and oiled after just a handful of mags down the pipe, before I started moaning about the repeated malfunctions.

Thats one thing Ive learned about the P365.
500 Rounds with S&B NATO or 124+P Gold Dot "Seconds" no problem..

With WWB or Fed Black Pack ain't happening unless you want light off-center strikes the last 100 rounds.(not quite returning all the way to full battery).

...and with my large palmed (it's a 2 finger gun for me even with the extension) and short fingered 8" hands real estate is at a premium. I tried floating the support thumb and riding the knuckle with the strong thumb and still wouldn't lock back. I was riding with the heel of my support hand. Had to resort to a revolver grip to resolve it.

I consider both of those shooter induced. Clean it often enough, feed it the correct ammo and don't ride the controls or slide and it works fine.

In my opinion before buying a Micro Pistol consider if your handsize is conductive to shooting the platform. The P365 is borderline to small for me.
 
With WWB or Fed Black Pack ain't happening unless you want light off-center strikes the last 100 rounds.(not quite returning all the way to full battery).

Ironically WWB is my litmus test in 9mm

(I dont load 9mm)
 
P365 ... With WWB or Fed Black Pack ain't happening ... consider ... before buying a Micro Pistol
Ironically WWB is my litmus test in 9mm
Same here as I often use Winchester or Federal white box to break in my new pistols.

My M&P Shield 9mm, Taurus TCP 738, PT145 SA/DA, Glock 26/27/30, all subcompacts, have reliably fed and cycled the slide from day one with both factory and my reloads.

Of course, my 9mm/40S&W Glocks and M&P40/M&P45 all have run reliably right out of the box without slide cycling issues.
How many malfunctioning pistols are user induced?
If your new pistols are having marginal difficulty reliably cycling the slide with "white box" ammo but will reliably cycle with hotter S&B/NATO spec ammo, this is due to new stiffer recoil springs. Try locking the slide back until your next range trip and see if reliability improves with "white box" ammo. ;)

If a pistol remains unreliable after sufficient break-in, I will attempt to identify the cause and if I cannot make the pistol reliable, it won't stay with me too long. Fortunately, I have hardly come across such during my lifetime.

I have a few brand new pistols that wouldn't quite return to battery until a few rounds were cycled through due to tight clearances and a new chamber. But after a few rounds they fixed themselves.
Most of the time they are more reliable just left alone.
While vast majority of current production pistols will run reliably straight out of the box, some will still require few hundred rounds to "break in".

My railed Sig 1911 XO has tightest chamber I have seen with no leade requiring shorter very consistent 200 gr lead SWC reload dimensions. But from day one, after around 200-300 rounds of factory FMJ ammunition, the Sig 1911 has reliably fed and chambered my Lead SWC reloads without issues. Due to tighter chamber, after around 400 rounds, cycling will slow down but after a quick cleaning of the chamber, reliable feeding and chambering continues.

When the range got several new rental RIA 1911 Tacticals along with friend's RIA 1911 Tactical (which has enlarged flared chamber mouth), I got to shoot them right out of the box and they fed reliably and fully chambered factory ammo and friend's RIA 1911 even fed his sloppy reloads and continued feeding while fully chambering for several hundred rounds more after my Sig 1911 slowed down before needing a cleaning.

brand new magazine that is so tight the last few rounds were difficult to load
This is due to new stiff/extra power magazine springs. I usually tell people to load new magazines with however many rounds they can comfortably load and leave them loaded and after a while, they are able to load the rest of the rounds.

I always replace worn magazine springs with Wolff extra power springs so after they are set, they continue to provide reliable feeding. Kinda like 16 lb 1911 recoil springs becoming 15 lb springs and 18.5 lb recoil springs becoming 16-17+ lb springs. ;):D
 
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Same here as I often use Winchester or Federal white box to break in my new pistols.

My M&P Shield 9mm, Taurus TCP 738, PT145 SA/DA, Glock 26/27/30, all subcompacts, have reliably fed and cycled the slide from day one with both factory and my reloads.

Of course, my 9mm/40S&W Glocks and M&P40/M&P45 all have run reliably right out of the box without slide cycling issues.

If your new pistols are having marginal difficulty reliably cycling the slide with "white box" ammo but will reliably cycle with hotter S&B/NATO spec ammo, this is due to new stiffer recoil springs. Try locking the slide back until your next range trip and see if reliability improves with "white box" ammo. ;)

If a pistol remains unreliable after sufficient break-in, I will attempt to identify the cause and if I cannot make the pistol reliable, it won't stay with me too long. Fortunately, I have hardly come across such during my lifetime.


While vast majority of current production pistols will run reliably straight out of the box, some will still require few hundred rounds to "break in".

My railed Sig 1911 XO has tightest chamber I have seen with no leade requiring shorter very consistent 200 gr lead SWC reload dimensions. But from day one, after around 200-300 rounds of factory FMJ ammunition, the Sig 1911 has reliably fed and chambered my Lead SWC reloads without issues. Due to tighter chamber, after around 400 rounds, cycling will slow down but after a quick cleaning of the chamber, reliable feeding and chambering continues.

When the range got several new rental RIA 1911 Tacticals along with friend's RIA 1911 Tactical (which has enlarged flared chamber mouth), I got to shoot them right out of the box and they fed reliably and fully chambered factory ammo and friend's RIA 1911 even fed his sloppy reloads and continued feeding while fully chambering for several hundred rounds more after my Sig 1911 slowed down before needing a cleaning.


This is due to new stiff/extra power magazine springs. I usually tell people to load new magazines with however many rounds they can comfortably load and leave them loaded and after a while, they are able to load the rest of the rounds.

I always replace worn magazine springs with Wolff extra power springs so after they are set, they continue to provide reliable feeding. Kinda like 16 lb 1911 recoil springs becoming 15 lb springs and 18.5 lb recoil springs becoming 16-17+ lb springs. ;):D

P365
The WWB / Federal BP was due to carbon fouling after 400 rounds. It's dirtier after 150 rounds of these than 500 rounds of S&B NATO.

P365
It's unusual to have to nearly stand on an UpLula to get the last 5-Rounds in the magazine. In retrospect I should have emptied and reloaded the magazine to try and alleviate the binding. They were bound up so solid that two weeks later when I tried to use them at the range it would completely stop the slide without even an attempting to strip the round. It took considerable force on the slide to force them out. Didn't happen on the other three mags or after the first loading of that one.

As long as I clean after 250 rounds of WWB/FBP and 500 rounds of S&B it is 100% now. However I don't shoot it well enough (Can't guarantee a T-Box shot at 15 yards) to carry it.
 
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IMO, I would say that MOST pistol problems are user induced. People like to tinker with their guns and I'm all for that. Just don't used that tinkered gun in a SD scenario and you're probably OK.

Any gun that is going to be used in SD capacity should be completely stock(maybe install night sights) and use OEM mags with proper factory ammunition. Make sure you run a couple of boxes of said ammunition in OEM mags to see if the gun cycles it properly. This all assumes you buy a pistol from a reputable manufacturer.

If you want to buy a gun (for SD or HD) and it just doesn't have all the stuff you want, don't try and "improve" it, just buy a different gun, there is a plethora of choices on the market.

If you want to buy a gun and "improve" it, designate that gun for range toy use only.
 
I suspect a lot.

I also suspect some problems can be attributed to inexperience with a type of firearm. For instance, with the prevalence of striker fired guns these days, there are many adult, long time shooters, that don't have any experience with a hammer fired pistol, whether it is a Traditional Double Action or Single Action auto or revolver.

Conversely, there are no doubt bunches of folks that have spent decades shooting a 1911, SIG P220, or even an S&W Model 27, who may have some issues with a G21.
 
having worked as a LE firearms instructor, as well as having been trained as an armorer for some different firearm brands, I've often observed to the old saying that day in and day out, upwards of 95% of firearms "problems" are shooter-induced in some manner. Might be because of something the shooter did, or something the shooter didn't do (but ought to have done). This has been mentioned in virtually all of the armorer classes I've attended over the years (26, last time I tried to gather and count certificates).

The breakdown "numbers" may vary by a couple percentage points, depending on the gun company folks discussing it, but basically I've always heard it stated as the percentage of "problems" breaking down as:
95% shooter-induced
3% ammunition-related
2% gun-related (as in an actual gun mechanical or manufacturing problem)

Shooter-induced issues can be interesting and frustrating for the shooter, and sometimes for the instructor trying to help. Like what some folks like to euphemistically call "limp-wristing" (grip stability issue during recoil/dwell time). Some shooters can't seem to make it happen no matter how hard they may try to induce it ... and yet some other shooters can't seem to prevent it from happening ... using the same pistol and ammunition.

I've often tried to explain to newly minted LE firearms instructors at my former agency that "fixing" a shooter's problem requires that you understand what's actually happening, or not happening (but should). Simply parroting some list of "corrections" and "grip technique advice" an instructor may have heard during their instructor's training class is easy and quick to do, but that doesn't mean it's going to help the shooter, especially if the advice isn't addressing the actual (or underlying) "problem" being experienced.
 
When I was breaking in my little Kahr CM9 the slide didn't lock back after I emptied the magazine. It made me realize I had my thumb on the slide stop.

I did manage to get an old Ruger P-series to stovepipe once. I had read someone online extolling the virtues of using grease instead of oil on the slide rails. The suggested shooters choice grease. Good stuff to be sure but I had put too much of it on. It had migrated through the whole gun & the extractor was slick. I cleaned the pistol & relubed it being much more sparing with the grease & it worked fine. The old P guns weren't pretty & didn't have the greatest ergonomics but the tended to work.

I took one of my sisters out to shoot & she was having issues due to limp wristing & a brand new gun that hadn't been cleaned & lubricated.

I've never limpwristed an auto pistol & was actually surprised when I saw her do it.
 
7 problems.... 7 problems are user induced.

Wait, it's Monday, no? So 9 problems then.

In all fairness, it depends upon the manufacturer.

The VAST majority of our issues with our firearms were the owner. Solidly 97%+ by closely held records for quality control and development. Now, that's not a 97% success rate per unit sold but rather, 97%+ of returns (itself less than 2% of total units sold) were owner induced issues.

Crap ammo, cheap magazines, failure to clean/maintain, flawed reassembly, garbage aftermarket parts.....

I eventually had to support the warranty with this, more or less:
"Lifetime warranty, blah, blah, blah...... if upon return, the firearm is deemed as properly functioning for accuracy and cycling as well as reliable and safe yet needed aftermarket components removed or a cleaning performed; a service charge of $58 per hour/1 hr minimum will be assessed."

Or something to that effect. Worked beautifully and garnered little if any animosity whether in person or on the internet - the usual playground of the eternal malcontent.

Prior to a return label being sent, only one of two of us would talk the customer through their issue and warn them again about servicing and ammunition prior to exercising there warranty.

I grew flat sick of stopping whatever was going on to attend to a fella going cheap (or worse buying airsoft grade crap), shooting lacquered ammo, changing parts out for components made of cheese or whining about accuracy on a gun already test fired.

May sound like a bitch but you try manufacturing for a world often motivated by cheapness and magazine articles highlighting items without addressing quality or lack there of.

Selling that company was an absolute joy if only to be rid of the; cheap, irresponsible, unreasoning and ridiculously argumentative 3-5% of customers. One fool could ruin your week. We... I would bend over backwards to help a customer out with customization, advice on parts selection and upgrades or advice on personal operator performance. Hell, they could even come in back to learn to maintain or clean the gun or go to an open range day with us and shout OUR ammunition but I'll be damned if we were going to clean it for them without charge.

But, come in whining that the used 8 dollar magazine from a gunshow didn't work or lie to me about wolf ammo when I can SMELL the lacquer residue or complain that my product is out of spec because some airsoft or worse garbage doesn't fit and I'd get rattled.

If I'm cleaning your gun or attending to your foolishness, someone ELSE'S gun is not being attended to.

If you think that's unreasonable, Apply the same scenarios to any other product like motor vehicles and such.

Interestingly, I only recall 2 customers ever that induced failures by *limp-wristing*. After several go-'rounds with each weapon, I finally took each out to the range with multiple firearms and found it was their technique that queered cycling. It was TOO damn weird. Like the person on who's wrist a mechanical watch simply will not work.

Even there - we got them set up with cycling firearms at no charge. The challenge of diagnosis and accommodation was really interesting.


Todd.
 
I have not owned a lot of guns by some standards, but I have experienced the following factory defects. Ruger, pins that did not line up or stay in place on a New Vaquero, MK3: defective extractor, and LCI that caused out of battery explosions, 10/22 with a defective extractor. RIA, with the frame so far out of spec it could not be fixed. Springfield 1911, barrel did not fit the frame correctly, shot 7" at 5 yards. Remington 1911, extractor was missing most of the hook. Kimber 1911: wont get through a magazine, any magazine with ball (not mine). Bushmaster: Gas block not drilled correctly, gun didn't cycle when hot. Uberti, broken springs after the first box of ammo. Many 870's with bad chambers. 2 savages (one mine, one not) with chambers that were not fully cut. WASR with the rails welding in the wrong spot (not mine). These are the ones that I can think of at the moment. I have experienced some type of significant defect at a rate of about 40%. I don't believe I'm the only person who gets defects, and I know people who have defective guns and pretend they don't. For example, the Kimber and WASR's guys are just "having problems with defective ammo, or magazines" permanently. I really think anyone who's owned more than 3 guns made in the last 15 years, and never had a problem either never shoots, or lies. No need for rebuttal, I know that one guy (or 10) who "never have a problem and I shoot 40,000 rounds of hollowpoints through EBay mags every month" will have to declare I'm wrong, but thats my observation. I have seem many people wast a huge amount of money on ammo trying to prove the guns not defective, before giving up, buying a few one, and letting the first rust in a closet.
 
Based on many, many years behind the counter, more than 75% of the time when a customer came back with "a problem gun," after intense examination and careful testing, we would discover the real problem was the nut on the trigger! Thanks for asking.
 
I have not owned a lot of guns by some standards, but I have experienced the following factory defects. Ruger, pins that did not line up or stay in place on a New Vaquero, MK3: defective extractor, and LCI that caused out of battery explosions, 10/22 with a defective extractor. RIA, with the frame so far out of spec it could not be fixed. Springfield 1911, barrel did not fit the frame correctly, shot 7" at 5 yards. Remington 1911, extractor was missing most of the hook. Kimber 1911: wont get through a magazine, any magazine with ball (not mine). Bushmaster: Gas block not drilled correctly, gun didn't cycle when hot. Uberti, broken springs after the first box of ammo. Many 870's with bad chambers. 2 savages (one mine, one not) with chambers that were not fully cut. WASR with the rails welding in the wrong spot (not mine). These are the ones that I can think of at the moment. I have experienced some type of significant defect at a rate of about 40%. I don't believe I'm the only person who gets defects, and I know people who have defective guns and pretend they don't. For example, the Kimber and WASR's guys are just "having problems with defective ammo, or magazines" permanently. I really think anyone who's owned more than 3 guns made in the last 15 years, and never had a problem either never shoots, or lies. No need for rebuttal, I know that one guy (or 10) who "never have a problem and I shoot 40,000 rounds of hollowpoints through EBay mags every month" will have to declare I'm wrong, but thats my observation. I have seem many people wast a huge amount of money on ammo trying to prove the guns not defective, before giving up, buying a few one, and letting the first rust in a closet.

I'm not doubting your experience so why would you doubt mine?

Out of the last 12 I've bought if broken in and reasonably clean I have one firearm with an issue. Ruger EC9S has a magazine catch issue. Loaded magazines are difficult to insert without depressing the magazine release button. The bullets.appear to be contacting the magazine catch when inserting. Need to take the time to see if I can fix it myself with minimal effort or it's worth sending it back to the Mothership.

I've been averaging around 3,000 rounds a month. Not a lot but more than many.

I've had a half dozen Kimber 1911's.
One Ruger 10/22 (Bought nearly 40.years ago).
A couple of Savage Model 10/110 Rifles.
No 870's but I have 1100"s (all 40+ years old).
I think that covers the firearms that we may have in common. None had a manufacturing defect unless you count bad magazines (1911's). Some have broken parts through the years (like extractors) or needed springs replaced or worn out magazines (1911's) but maintenance is to be expected.
 
Here's a user induced problem I just re-learned myself, a little while ago.
Dirty mags. How many folks neglect to clean their mags, then start having extraction and feed lockups, due to sticky feeds?
 
I think people buy a 1911 like a Kimber or Dan Wesson, don't bother to clean/lubricate it and go to the range and have issues. I've got a 3" Ultra Carry 9mm Kimber that was traded in at a great loss because it's first owner never bothered to read the manual, follow instructions.

I've had it for three years and it has never jammed on me with simple cleaning/oiling.
 
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