How much crimp? Lee FCD guidance sought.

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A crimp on a pulled Argentine 147 Gr FMJ-BT bullet. They have a built in tapered crimp groove. The roll crimp edge pushed the case mouth into the groove quite nicely. I used an insert I machined for a Hornady seater.

147 Gr FMJ-BT in .300 Blackout.
Crimp on .300 Blackout with 147 Gr FMJ Pic 1.JPG
Crimp on .300 Blackout with 147 Gr FMJ Pic 2.JPG
 
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This is really a great thread! I am new to reloading and have owned a Hornady LNL press for 6+ months. To this day, I still haven't produced any rounds due to me second guessing my taper crimps on .45 acp rounds. Does anyone have any tips to test a crimp for sufficient setback? Thanks for the help guys, and I hope soon I'll be able to contribute too!
 
Neck tension holds the bullet in straight walled auto calibers. No amount of "crimp" can fix it if there is not enough neck tension. Test rounds for setback before "crimping". The crimp should remove the bell, or perhaps .001 more. Any more than that can be detrimental. I adjusted my .45 ACP crimp die so that the shortest cases get the bell removed and the longest cases get a hair more.
 
A Medium to Heavy Modified Roll Crimp. I used an RCBS "Taper Crimp" seater with no seater stem. The crimp ledge is not nearly as sharp an angle as the common roll crimp die of old, and is not anywhere close to as small an angle as a true taper crimp die, but is around 45ish degrees. It is about the same as the crimp ledge Hornady is putting in the sleeves for their seaters. This new angle seems to be the new "thing". I wanted to crimp to help with bullet setback if the bullet banged on something on the way to the chamber.

.300 BLK with a Speer 130 Gr Hot Core JSFP
300 Blackout with Speer 130 Gr - Modified Roll Crimp Pic 1.JPG
300 Blackout with Speer 130 Gr - Modified Roll Crimp Pic 2.JPG
 
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A Medium to Heavy Modified Roll Crimp. I used the same RCBS "Taper Crimp" seater with no seater stem as I used for the Speer 130 Gr above.

.300 BLK with a Hornady 123 Gr Z-Max (.310)
300 Blackout with Hornady 123 Gr .310 Z Max - Modified Roll Crimp Pic 1.JPG
300 Blackout with Hornady 123 Gr .310 Z Max - Modified Roll Crimp Pic 2.JPG
 
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Great thread...

Thanks all....

I have tested a few Rounds and had some Bullet Movements... so Back at the crimp Process again...

Thanks again THR... always some GREAt info to be found
 
Guess my question is what each of these look like recovered from a swimming pool after firing.
 
I don't load lead, so it's difficult for me to gauge your crimps. But for heavy +p jacketed loads, I would be perfectly comfortable with (D). I have a revolver or two lock up due to bullet jump, but I solved that by using a good stout roll crimp, but once again, I'm talking jacketed bullets and full tilt loads.

GS
 
Even though I am new to reloading this is really good stuff to consider because I have both the lee FCD and the Hornady die I will be using however I had planed on using the Lee FCD so this will help. Yep I'm a green horn!
 
I use the Lee FCD for taper crimped rounds, but NEVER use it for 38 special or .357 Magnum. I just use the roll crimp built into the seater die. Works great, and produces a nice roll crimp.
 
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