How to choose a powder from a manual?

[ngaither]

When looking at a manual you can get any where from 5 to 20 different powders to choose from for a a certain size bullet caliber and weight. What are some of the ways people do to choose a couple of different powders from these groups to start working up loads without trying 20 different powders?

 

[rcmodel]

Generally, they are listed from the fastest that will work, to the slowest that will work.
Neither the top or the bottom of the list is usually the best choice.

Pick one just below the slowest one that shows compressed charges at MAX load.
Or kind of in the middle range.
That gives you a case full of powder for good load density, without getting into compressed loads.

Or, you can pick the one that gives the highest velocity for the bullet you are using, if that is what you are after.

Some manuals, like the Lyman show one powder highlighted that gave the potential best accuracy in thier test barrel.
Not a bad idea to stick around that burn-rate range with what you have or can get.

rc

 

[GW Staar]

Adding to RC's reply:

It's a good idea to read up on powders....Handloader Magazine is a good source and there are others. The point of that is to understand the characteristics of a powder as to how it may affect your rifle's action (especially a gas operated semi-auto), how accurately it meters in a powder measure (if you plan to use one), and how sensitive the powder is to temperature change (if you shoot in a cold climate). Those things affect a shooter's powder choice beyond, accuracy and velocity.

For example, a powder that works great in a bolt action .308 can damage the action on an M1A, due to extra violent cycling of it with a fast powder.

Another example is a load may be zeroed in in Georgia, but may not be during a cold Montana hunt, if the powder you used is sensitive to cold.

 

[RandyP]

I reload 4 handgun calibers and simply chose a powder that had data for all 4. In my case Win 231/HP-38 has worked quite well for the low-mid range plinking ammo I use and the data has a wide enough powder charge span to offer a substantial security 'cushion' choosing the mid or below.

 

[Fishslayer]

Unless you're going to buy online a look at local availability might influence your decision.

 

[Ky Larry]

I've been reloading so long I've developed favorite powders for pet loads. When something new hits the market, I'll give it a try. Right now I'm experimenting with IMR-8208 in .223 Rem.

 

[Blue68f100]

It was easier 40 years ago when when only had a few to choose from....

 

[Arkansas Paul]

I like to find the best combination that will give me the highest velocity with the lowest pressure.

Also, it's good to use powders that will load many different rounds. For example I like Unique for pistols and IMR-4350 for rifles because they're very versatile.

 

[Josh45]

Usually, I look for a powder that gives me some room in charges. I also see if it will do more than one just bullet weight. Unless I only plan to use that certain weight, Then it won't matter much.

I don't like powders that give me only .4-.6 grains of space to do.
Make sure there for your bullet weight, See if it will do more than once so you don't have to run around looking for another one if you can.

 

[James2]

Unless you're going to buy online a look at local availability might influence your decision.

Amen to that. This has been a big factor for me who has never bought online. When I started out, with no experience, I would ask the guy at the gun counter(who reloaded) what powder to use. He never sent me astray. Lots more powders now to choose from, and I haven't tried most of them.

 

[dickttx]

A lot will depend on your goals. When I started reloading I accumulated several different powders (at a cost of several hundred dollars in today's dollars) trying primarily various rifle loads in different calibers.
When I started again a year or so ago I only load for handguns. With my leftover Unique and a jug of HP38 I can load just about anything I want.

 

[mgmorden]

I've got a pretty good handle on what I want for what now, but when I first started I just found all the powders that would work for everything I wanted to load for, then took that list to the store to see what they had.

That did get me coming home with H380 and H414 - neither of which I'm particularly fond of - I usually use H4895 for rifles these days, but but they produced workable safe loads.

As mentioned, they're typically listed from fastest powder to slowest. If you're loading handgun, then if you're a beginner then I'd recommend slower powders. Typically it takes more of a slow powder to get a working load, and as such its harder to double-charge a case (and easier to notice it if you forget to charge a case).

 

[Winchester101]

I would say picking the "right" or "best" powder out of a loading manual just comes with experience. Which is not to say that a novice reloader can't make a good selection after inquiring of others, but some times your "right" or "best" powder might not be the same as someone elses.

Having said that, some general thoughts on how I personally pick a powder for a new or different load, after perusing several reloading manuals.

If I have a powder already on hand that seems like it will work, based on the books, that's my first choice. I already have too many different types of powder in inventory and I'm hesitant to add to the herd.

If I have to buy a new powder, or if I happen to have more than one in stock that will work, I tend towards the powder that will give the best velocity/pressure relationship. However, pressure data is not always included in every manual, so you may have to use velocity alone to make your decision.

When choosing from more than one "in-stock" or new powders that are close in velocity/pressure relationship, I look for the powder that gives optimum loading density, IE 85%+ density at starting load and 95%+ at maximum load.

If I'm still unable to narrow it down after those considerations, then I look at, in no certain order;

Meterabilty
Availabilty
Price

Again, after you've gained experience, you'll kind of just "know" which powder will probably work the best for a given situation. This is just my experience and the criteria I use, yours may be different.

W101

 

[orionengnr]

from post #2

Generally, they are listed from the fastest that will work, to the slowest that will work. Neither the top or the bottom of the list is usually the best choice.

Thank you, RC. Once again, I learn something new from your posts.

Pick one just below the slowest one that shows compressed charges at MAX load. Or kind of in the middle range.

Sounds like great advice, and I will follow it going forward.

Up until now, what I have done when I want to start loading for a new cartridge:
Read up and see which loads are common and or recommended.
If I have any of the powders mentioned, try that load. If not, add that powder to my collection. there was a time when I thought I could do all handgun loading with 231...that was true for a while, but no longer.

 

[twofifty]

sticky this thread pls

I'd like to suggest the great practical advice on this thread should be stickied.

 

[mizer67]

I would pick my bullet or bullets first.

For instance in .223:

69-77 grain SMKs = Reloader 15, Varget, TAC, 8208 XBR
55 grain Hornady FMJBT = H335, 2230

After having picked the bullet, I'd see if the powder I chose could meet velocity requirements I have, if any, such as a power factor floor in gun games, with some room to spare on the top end.

After that, there are a number of secondary criteria to consider, such as price, availability, metering capability (if thrown), case fill, cleanliness, recoil characteristics etc....

 

[zxcvbob]

With handguns, I usually try to load one of the faster powder that will get me the performance I want. That way I'm at the upper end of the pressure curve where the powders burn most efficiently, and it uses a little less powder than down-loading a slow burner.

For plinking loads or target loads, Red Dot usually gives the best accuracy, and it's really cheap to use. For heavy loads, a near-max charge of Unique or Herco or WSF is good. I have slower powders too, but I don't use them often.

I don't load enough rifle cartridges to know if this works for them or not.

 

[James2]

Some manuals name the powder that gave the best results in the testing. I have always felt this is a good place to start. Other than that, I like to pick a powder that is around the center of the list. Take a look too at different bullet weights and see if any of the powders listed works for all bullet weights. It may depend too on what your goals are, some full power loads or some economical plinking loads. Regardless of what I first start with it seems I will try something else at some point. I guess this is how we finally find our favorite powders for each use?

 

[2Bad4u]

This a great thread for new reloaders like myself.

 

[SHOOOTER1]

In reloading for rifles, barrel length matters. Longer barrels - slower powder - shorter barrel - faster powder. Pressures are also affected by barrel length. Most times not much but can become a problem w/some powders.