Hunting knife recommendation
- Thread starter dak0ta
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22-rimfire
Member
Sure, but I think you might be happier with the Buck 102 for all around field dressing chores. With me, a large blade just makes me more prone to either cutting myself when I do some of the detail work involved with field dressing or generally makes me clumsy. The 119 makes a good general purpose hiking knife capable of many woodcraft chores.
Steel Talon
Member
Stick with Buck,
My three fixed blades I have and suggest either one or all three
1. 119 over all great knife in the field and around camp
2. 103 Skinning knife has a great belly to it makes capeing a breeze
3. Buck Vanguard with no slip handle. This is my absolute favorite fixed blade it goes with me into the field, and into the barn. If you choose one then this is the one to choose.
Folding lock blade
1. Buck 110 folding hunter this is the second Buck knife you should own
Pocket Knife
1. Buck Stockman this is a fine 3 blade pocket knife that will provide you with a lifetime of daily service from opening mail to doctoring livestock all points in between and beyond! this is the third Buck knife you should have.
Here is the secret to maintaining a wicked sharp edge on your knife. Learn to polish the edge by stropping.
Get you a piece of heavy leather glue it to a piece of board (smooth side up)
go to Sears and buy you a block of GREEN polishing compound from the tool department rub it into the leather generously. Now slowly strop the edge, pay attention to edge contact..
I can give you tips on how to easily sharpen your knives using wet dry sand paper if you want.
Peace
My three fixed blades I have and suggest either one or all three
1. 119 over all great knife in the field and around camp
2. 103 Skinning knife has a great belly to it makes capeing a breeze
3. Buck Vanguard with no slip handle. This is my absolute favorite fixed blade it goes with me into the field, and into the barn. If you choose one then this is the one to choose.
Folding lock blade
1. Buck 110 folding hunter this is the second Buck knife you should own
Pocket Knife
1. Buck Stockman this is a fine 3 blade pocket knife that will provide you with a lifetime of daily service from opening mail to doctoring livestock all points in between and beyond! this is the third Buck knife you should have.
Here is the secret to maintaining a wicked sharp edge on your knife. Learn to polish the edge by stropping.
Get you a piece of heavy leather glue it to a piece of board (smooth side up)
go to Sears and buy you a block of GREEN polishing compound from the tool department rub it into the leather generously. Now slowly strop the edge, pay attention to edge contact..
I can give you tips on how to easily sharpen your knives using wet dry sand paper if you want.
Peace
OP
OP
dak0ta
Member
- Joined
- Feb 14, 2008
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- 2,428
Have you guys heard of the Spanish brand: Muela? I saw them when I was in Madrid and they look really nice and affordable. the Spanish are known for their knife making. The grips were 'stag' or bone and they all come with leather sheaths.
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Buck 110 Folder is right up there with sliced bread in my mind. It works for everything from chores to field dressing. It works exceptionally well for field dressing for me. The shape of the tip is perfect for making that initial cut. If you can't figure out how to clean it, buy a brush and clean under running water. A 110 goobered up with blood, fat, and hair will still cut until you get back to civilization. It is not the most top of the line knife you can buy, but it will cut through a dozen deer before you need to think about sharpening it. If you have to have fixed, the 102 is a solid choice, but I love the 110. A lot. My wife carries a 102 for a backup, and I carry a schrade x-timer in my pack for a backup. Both are solid, but the x-timer is more difficult to field dress with since it has such a fat blade. The x-timer takes a good edge and has a very ergonomic handle. I think it is discontinued though. Long story short- 110 will do everything you need it to for a great price.
MutinousDoug
Member
These knives come along when I'm camping or hunting.
The 14" machete is more of a shovel to dig a hole or collect kindling wood.
Below that are two "Canadian" knives: an old Hearter's (1969?) and below that is a G.H.Russell of the same design but SST rather than carbon steel. I like carbon steel knives better but I have no problem with SST if I think it's going to get wet.
Below those is an old, stacked leather handled PAL RH24 that I use for fishing or bird hunting when I don't take the little knife on the bottom; a Gerber "Pixie". The PAL was made before 1953 and has been rode hard and (literally) put away wet. I don't know if you can see how badly it has been pitted from abuse. If pressed I could get along on an elk hunt with this one alone (or, aside from the "Pixie" or the machete, any of those pictured).
Then there is a modified "Old Hickory" knife. I followed the instructions floating around the internet a few years ago to make a "Nesmuk" style skinner, a little over 4" blade. I haven't really baptized it yet other than in the kitchen where it's a great vegetable/meat knife.
The folder is a 1960's German knife that used to belong to my Dad. The gut ripper blade is the only style "gut hook" I'll use. The knife has a saw blade that I have no use for and an entrail hook for dressing birds and of course a cork screw. As noted above, this type of knife is a biatch to clean up.
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The 14" machete is more of a shovel to dig a hole or collect kindling wood.
Below that are two "Canadian" knives: an old Hearter's (1969?) and below that is a G.H.Russell of the same design but SST rather than carbon steel. I like carbon steel knives better but I have no problem with SST if I think it's going to get wet.
Below those is an old, stacked leather handled PAL RH24 that I use for fishing or bird hunting when I don't take the little knife on the bottom; a Gerber "Pixie". The PAL was made before 1953 and has been rode hard and (literally) put away wet. I don't know if you can see how badly it has been pitted from abuse. If pressed I could get along on an elk hunt with this one alone (or, aside from the "Pixie" or the machete, any of those pictured).
Then there is a modified "Old Hickory" knife. I followed the instructions floating around the internet a few years ago to make a "Nesmuk" style skinner, a little over 4" blade. I haven't really baptized it yet other than in the kitchen where it's a great vegetable/meat knife.
The folder is a 1960's German knife that used to belong to my Dad. The gut ripper blade is the only style "gut hook" I'll use. The knife has a saw blade that I have no use for and an entrail hook for dressing birds and of course a cork screw. As noted above, this type of knife is a biatch to clean up.
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Frozen North
Member
I gave all the hunting knives I had to my kids when I discovered the Mora Companion. I can get them sharper and they stay sharper than any other knife I have experience with.
The Buck 119 is the old standby, but IMHO, it really aint that great. The handle is uncomfortable for me, it gets slippery as heck, and I feel a full clip point is a poor choice for field dressing.
Do yourself a favor and give the modern handled Moras a shot. You absolutely will not be disappointed for the price.
As far as butchering, go pick up a Victorinox Fibrox skinning knife and a boning knife. They make the job much easier. These are what the pros use and they are not very expensive.
*Mora Companion for the field
*Victorinox skinner for caping
*Victorinox boning knife for processing.
The Buck 119 is the old standby, but IMHO, it really aint that great. The handle is uncomfortable for me, it gets slippery as heck, and I feel a full clip point is a poor choice for field dressing.
Do yourself a favor and give the modern handled Moras a shot. You absolutely will not be disappointed for the price.
As far as butchering, go pick up a Victorinox Fibrox skinning knife and a boning knife. They make the job much easier. These are what the pros use and they are not very expensive.
*Mora Companion for the field
*Victorinox skinner for caping
*Victorinox boning knife for processing.
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A mix of style and practicality. A 3.75" blade is about right. I paid $65 for mine. http://www.knivesofalaska.com/item.asp?id=6&r=store.asp?c=8
dmazur
Member
While Dozier makes more expensive knives, it's hard to beat their unpolished ones. Around $250 instead of $900, and the steel is just as good.
Here's the one I have -
http://www.agrussell.com/dozier-yukon-pro-skinner/p/DKhhhYSBRH/
I like the horizontal Kydex sheath...doesn't catch on anything when I bend over.
Here's the one I have -
http://www.agrussell.com/dozier-yukon-pro-skinner/p/DKhhhYSBRH/
I like the horizontal Kydex sheath...doesn't catch on anything when I bend over.
VA27
Member
If you want something smaller than the 119, the Buck 102 has a 4" blade.
Bottom knife...
+1. I've carried a 102 as a boot knife every day for almost 20 years. Classic good looks, big enough to do the job, small enough to stay out of your way. It is my 'survival' knife. And if I lose it, no tears, I'll just pop into the nearest hardware/gun store and pick up another.
Frozen North
Member
IMO, a slim drop point... Enough point to open a hole at the base of the sternum, but round enough to use your finger to keep the point from poking the innards.
Avoid big bulky blades.
Anything shaving sharp is better than anything kinda dull. You should be able to open the abdomen as easy as opening a zipper. No sawing, tugging, or ripping should be necessary.
Avoid big bulky blades.
Anything shaving sharp is better than anything kinda dull. You should be able to open the abdomen as easy as opening a zipper. No sawing, tugging, or ripping should be necessary.
Frozen North
Member
The 679...
T.R.
Member
This my Schrade Golden Spike mdel. Its a genuine keeper!
TR
TR
If it has to be between those to, I personally would choose the 679, only because I don't like field dressing with a 6" blade. I prefer a 3-4" blade. Even though I prefer a clip point for field dressing myself, I have used drop point with plenty of success. Drop points are a little stronger for other functions.
My wife has a 471, which I'm not sure if they still make, but it is very similar in looks to the 679. I prefer my 110 folder, but hers works fine. I like to cut the pelvic stuff out without splitting the pelvic, so the skinnier blade style works better for me. However, I did split the pelvis in a 4 1/2 year old doe last year with her knife, just stabbed and whacked the butt of the knife with the palm of my hand a few times. The point is sharp and have used it to bleed a couple hogs. Either way, go to the store and hold a few until you find one that fits your hand best. Bigger isn't always better with knives. I've even seen some guys that carry a 6 inch boning knife from their kitchen- a very useful blade style. At the end of the day, it just has to cut.
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Steel Talon
Member
I imagine the 112 will serve you the best.. Since you want to use it also on geese. The Max would do fine, but for me it would have to be without the gut hook option. I'd rather control the blade tip with my finger when I open a gut.
I think you should handle a Buck Vanguard with the none slip handle before you make your final decision to buy.
OP
OP
dak0ta
Member
- Joined
- Feb 14, 2008
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Is this the Vanguard model you're referring to? http://www.buckknives.com/index.cfm?event=product.detail&productID=2925
This guy from Japan films his hunts and field dressed his deer with different hunting knives and gives his opinions: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jXq4IJqoKUM
He said that the Vanguard was his first knife and is really good! He says the 679 is good too, but it loses its edge after 1 deer. The 102 is too small and slippery he said, and also loses it's edge quickly.
This guy from Japan films his hunts and field dressed his deer with different hunting knives and gives his opinions: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jXq4IJqoKUM
He said that the Vanguard was his first knife and is really good! He says the 679 is good too, but it loses its edge after 1 deer. The 102 is too small and slippery he said, and also loses it's edge quickly.
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Steel Talon
Member
Yes that is the Vanguard. Shop around they can be had cheaper than nthat MSRP. They also make a Vanguard model with a rosewood handle very nice looking knife, but the non-slip handle is the way to go.
I also agree that the phenolic handle of the 119 and the 102 does get slippery the Vanguard will not. They hold a wicked edge also. And are easily "touched up" with a leather strop.
Ive never done a goose with a Vanguard but I've dressed many Elk, Deer, Antelope, Caribou, A Black Bear,A Mountain Lion, and many wild Hogs with my vanguard.
Seek one out before you buy....
I also agree that the phenolic handle of the 119 and the 102 does get slippery the Vanguard will not. They hold a wicked edge also. And are easily "touched up" with a leather strop.
Ive never done a goose with a Vanguard but I've dressed many Elk, Deer, Antelope, Caribou, A Black Bear,A Mountain Lion, and many wild Hogs with my vanguard.
Seek one out before you buy....
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Steel Talon
Member
Once a knife has been sharpened, a strop is necessary to maintain the edge after use. Strops can be made from many items cardbord,denim,....Traditionally they are made from leather. Think of a barber preparing to shave a customer he strops the razor befor touching the skin of the customer.
To strop you touch the blade edge to the strop and gently pull away from the grain not into. a lite touch and the proper edge angle is needed.
To make your own strop, you need,
*2 pieces of heavy leather 6/8 oz ( cut to 2x6 inches is my preference.)
*A plank to glue the leather on (top and bottom) Glue grain side down to plank
*Contact Cement
*A bar of green polishing compound
*A bar or black polishing compound http://www.sears.com/shc/s/search_10153_12605?vName=Tools&keyword=craftsman+4+oz.+black+rouge+buffing+compound&viewItems=25&sLevel=0&redirectType=SKIP_LEVEL&prop17=Craftsman%204%20oz.%20black%20Rouge%20Buffing%20Compound
If your near a Tandy leather purchase a tooling leather remnant (veg tanned) Or if a saddle shop is near again ask for a piece of 6/8 or 8/9 oz(TOOLING LEATHER)
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22-rimfire
Member
I agree with you other than the "necessary" part. Stropping gives you that razor edge that so many seek. Yes, this is the arm hair cutting edge. You can get a very good edge with the sharpening systems and regular bench stones. I would suggest if you go with bench stones that you get a diamond stone with two grits (coarse and fine). You won't use the coarse side much if unless you let the knife get really dull.
ArfinGreebly
Moderator Emeritus
Buck 105
May I also suggest you look at the Buck 105?
It's bigger than the 102, smaller than the 119.
Has a 5-inch blade, slender, adequate handle (the 102 handle is small for me).
May cost more than the 119, but I prefer it.
I have a Bucklite Max. The handle ergos are quite good. Lack of guard not a problem.
The Vanguard is also an excellent design. I don't have one -- yet.
BTW, I must also agree with those suggesting the Mora blades. Serious quality for not a lot of dollars.
The drop point -vs- clip point question tends to be kinda subjective. The drop point may be less "prone" to oopsies, but it's the guy holding the knife that's driving, so it's a matter of practice, experience, skill. A decent clip point with the point along the mid line of the blade, on a blade that's not excessively long, should be fine. Tons and tons of hunters have used them.
Pick one that balances well for you, holds well for you, takes a good edge, holds a good edge . . . and then get good with it.
Can't buy skill. Gotta earn that.
May I also suggest you look at the Buck 105?
It's bigger than the 102, smaller than the 119.
Has a 5-inch blade, slender, adequate handle (the 102 handle is small for me).
May cost more than the 119, but I prefer it.
I have a Bucklite Max. The handle ergos are quite good. Lack of guard not a problem.
The Vanguard is also an excellent design. I don't have one -- yet.
BTW, I must also agree with those suggesting the Mora blades. Serious quality for not a lot of dollars.
The drop point -vs- clip point question tends to be kinda subjective. The drop point may be less "prone" to oopsies, but it's the guy holding the knife that's driving, so it's a matter of practice, experience, skill. A decent clip point with the point along the mid line of the blade, on a blade that's not excessively long, should be fine. Tons and tons of hunters have used them.
Pick one that balances well for you, holds well for you, takes a good edge, holds a good edge . . . and then get good with it.
Can't buy skill. Gotta earn that.
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