Hunting Zero for Thick Timber Elk

[NickEllis]

A buddy and I are prepping for the upcoming elk season here in Colorado. He'll be shooting a 30'06, I'll be shooting a .375H&H. We plan on hunting an area with thick, black timber, second or third season. Elevation 9500-11000ft.

I rarely hunt big game with a rifle, always been more of a bow guy. However, when I have hunted rifle, I've used a turret scope and rangefinder to adjust to whatever yardage necessary. With as thick as this timber is, I'm using a VariX-III 1.75x6 for acquisition. The terrain just does not allow the time to adjust elevation etc., so I'm leaving the turret scope behind.

Which brings the question: in this kind of terrain, does one use a 100 or 200 yard zero?

Using a 100 yard zero on the .375, if I jump something in the dark timber, a 50 yrd shot is only 0.2 inches high, with a 200 and 250 yard shot being 3.7 and 7.7 inches low, respectively.

Alternately, with a 200 yrd zero, a 100 yrd shot would be 1.8inches high, a 50 yrd shot would be 0.8 inches high, and a 250 yrd shot would be 3.1 inches low.

At this point, I'm thinking its best to go with a 200 yrd zero (though it does make sighting in a bit tough, since there aren't all too many 200 yrd ranges close to us). I guess, using a 100 yard range, I could just sight in shooting 1.8 inches high and call it good.

Thoughts?

 

[Bwana John]

Go with zero at ~25 yards, ~2" high at 100 yards, and zero at 200 yards.

Its not all "heavy timber", and the elk will never notice the differance if you hit him 2" high.

Id probley go with the lighter 270 grain bullets for a little flatter trajectory. Again a N.A. elk is not going to notice the 30 grain differance.

 

[jmorris]

From entering the data into my pact it looks like 1.5-1.8” (depending on the bullet & scope height) high at 100yds would be correct.

This link is useful also


http://www.eskimo.com/~jbm/calculations/traj_card/traj_card.html

 

[NickEllis]

jmorris,

Yep, I use JBM to calculate my ballistics. With it all plugged in, a 100yrd shot would be 1.8 high.

Its good to see that a 25yrd shot and a 200 yrd shot are pretty close to the same, however. Guess it has to do with bullet rise and fall from the bore.

Bwana John: I'm planning on using the 270grn BarnesTSX.

 

[Kosh75287]

I wonder what kind of trouble you'd be inviting by splitting the difference and sighting it for "on" at 150. If you're restricted to a 100 yard range, then sighting it for the appropriate elevation at 100 yards (0.8 to 1 inch high?) may get you what you want. If you can be METAPHYSICALLY certain that you won't get a shot longer than 200 yards, your point of impact shouldn't be outside the 6" diameter "kill zone".

 

[rcmodel]

I would zero it for maximum Point-Blank Range.

In the case of the 270 grain bullet, that would be 2.65" high at 100,
Zero at 215,
and 6" low at 250 yards.

With a max PBR sight-in, you can hold dead on from the muzzle to 250 yards without worrying about it. The bullet will always be within the kill zone.

IMO: Scope Dial "Twitching & Switching" is best left to the movie & TV snipers!

Most game animals will be in the next county while you are still counting clicks and trying to remember where you left it set the last time you moved it!

rcmodel

 

[Vern Humphrey]

Those are both cartridges that call for a minimum of a 200 yard zero.

Remember, no matter what range you zero for, you can't control the animal. He's gonna be where he's gonna be -- five yards away, fifty yards, two hundred and fifty.

A two hundred yard zero will put the bullet where you want it at any reasonable range.

 

[Kosh75287]

I like RCModel's idea. I wouldn't feel lost with a 200 yard zero, since it's so close to PBR (215 yards).

 

[NickEllis]

That all sound good to me. Would you say the same holds true for the '06? A 215 zero, that is.

In defense of the "twitching and switching" as you say, rcmodel, I actually found it very helpful for antelope last year. There were many shots I could not have made without a good rangefinder and easily adjustable turrets. With a zero of 100 yards, it was easy to apply the dope and just pull the trigger. Quite fast actually.

However, I agree that application is not what we're looking for here. Hence the VM-III.

Great info, thanks. How does one figure the point blank range of a given bullet?

 

[Art Eatman]

Year in, year out, I've always zeroed for 200 yards with my hunting rifles. That way, I don't have to think about holdover or holdunder. I see an animal, automatically judge the distance, and automatically hold appropriately for the distance, It's all reflex; no hestitation to try to remember where my scope is set.

My effort is to minimize the number of steps between seeing and shooting.

And, on something the size of a deer or elk, it's just a case, anyway, of, "Point it and pull."

 

[Vern Humphrey]

A 200 yard zero will do for either rifle. With a 200 yard zero you'll only be about 1.8 to 1.9 inches above like of sight at most, and down less than 8 inches at 300.

This is for a 180 grain bullet at between 2700 and 2800 fps.

 

[rcmodel]

There were many shots I could not have made without a good rangefinder and easily adjustable turrets.

You just don't get out and shoot enough!

I grew up hunting coyotes in Kansas. Rifles were sighted in for 200 yards or thereabouts, depending on caliber.

Any coyote we came across between rock throwing distance and 500+ yards was DRT.
Our only Rangfinder was a 1/4 mile fence line at 440 yards if we were lucky enough to have one available.

That was mostly with Weaver 6x scopes with covered turrent dials.
The only time I ever touched a scope adjustment was when changing loads, or putting the scope on a different rifle.

If you know you have a 200 or 250 yard zero, you only need to remember the trajectory of your rifle beyond that to hold over the proper amount as far as you can see them!

rcmodel

 

[NickEllis]

Now rcmodel, do you really think Kentucky Windage (and elevation) is more reliable than a proper doping?

Hey, I think its great to know your rifle, but at 500 yards its pretty hard to judge inches over a 'yote's back! I'd rather not throw dust between his legs with my first shot. Especially if I'm going to be eating it later.

 

[NickEllis]

Great info, guys. Thanks. We'll be out this weekend getting him set up with a solid 200yrd zero.

For the 30'06, any suggestions on factory hunting ammo for elk? I haven't bought factory ammo in so long, I didn't know what to suggest.

 

[Art Eatman]

I have found that the Federal Premium High Energy is as accurate in my '06 rifle as my handloads. From email discussion with a guy who has a chronograph, it matches advertised muzzle velocity. It uses the 165-grain Sierra HPBT. Otherwise, I'd imagine most any decent bullet up to 180 grains oughta work.

 

[NickEllis]

Thanks, Art.

 

[jmorris]

For hunting I really like the Shepard scopes (photo below). They are purchased caliber specific but do work hands free in an instant.

 

[langenc]

For the 30-06 in thick stuff I do 1/2' hoigh at 100. AND try a couple shots at 50 or so just to see where she prints. Might also try a couple at 15-20 yards-for rabbit or such. You will be surprised where that prints.