I am now a Believer .. New 1911! :)

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O.K., you're a Phillistine. :neener:

Seriously, I've sometimes wondered how much more material it would take on the dustcover to have something like the new S&W revelover, a removeable light rail. You could mount it and you light for H.D. and remove it (install protective screws) and stuff it back into a holster for a non-railed pistol.
 
Someone does make a removable "Light Rail" I don't remember who offhand, but it mounts with screws just like you said, and could come of easily.

Here it is. I found it. Novak. - Pricey though.
 
ftf...slide lock may be so close to, perhaps even touching the rim of the round to be stripped that it ~~well cant do it . by manually pulling back the slide allows the round to rise up as designed & stripped real proper. dbl taps....practice practice, slow at first & than 'slow in a hurry' . it takes 3000 repitions to form a muscle memmory.draw to dbl in under 1.4 seconds is good. under 1.1 is real good. triple tap 1.11 (3 inch group) is my personal best with a kimber i have had for about 30,000 rounds. good luck.
 
all my first round slide relase jams with 1911's (or "nosediving" as i call it) were fixed with new magazines. something to do with the follower design or the way the angle of the bullet sits in the feed lips.

i cant say enough about wilson magazines. even the eight rounders are reliable.

i've got a kimber 8 rounder that nosedives the first round almost everytime if i use the slide release. even with 230 ball. its clearly marked and is a range only magazine. darn thing hammers the nose of the bullet into the bottom of the feed ramp everytime. and even if the momentum of the slide is enough to overcome it, i know its setting my bullet back in the case some.
 
This thread pushed me over the edge and I went out and bought a 1911 this morning.

I told the wife it's your fault, hope you don't mind.
 
The sling shot method is also one of the most reliable methods of getting a pistol back into service when in a "Stressful situation" occurs, IE gunfight, competition. As one of my instructors told me its easier to MONKEY GRIP IT (Hand over the top), then to find a small switch on the side with your strong hand. People generally lose fine motor skills when being pushed in a stress inducing situation. Sling shotting the slide does not require fine motor skills.

Either method works if you practice that method. Muscle memory can be created after a few thousand times of practice. I use the sling shot method because it proves more reliable for me than just dropping the slide, 1911s or not.

Smooth is fast.
 
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Shooting consecutive shots quickly takes practice. But lets address something first. A double tap is two shots, one sight picture. As your shooting, you should be watching your front sight. What you should practice is controlled pairs. Two shots, two sight pictures. Get a good comfortable grip (high thumbs, thumb riding safety both pointing forward as mentioned earlier) and relax a little. Let the recoil do it's job, it'll come right back on target with the proper grip. As soon as it comes back on target, squeeze the trigger again.

You'll be surprised how quickly you two shots off in a controlled pair. Most people who shoot IPSC, USPSA, or IDPA are shooting controlled pairs, not double taps. Watch some videos on youtube. You'll be surprised what looks like double taps are actually controlled pairs.

Good luck!
 
Im trying to get away from using the slide stop anyway. My buddy is a San Diego Sherrif Deputy and he always yells at me and says I should be working the slide when reloading. I guess they train them to rack the slide when loading, reloading, clearing, etc.
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I think you get the pistol back into action after a reload quicker by releasing the slide with the slide stop lever than by pulling the slide back with your support hand and letting go. The latter method may compress the recoil spring a bit more and cause the slide to rebound with a bit more vigor, but you end up with your support hand behind the pistol when it could be supporting the pistol and bringing it back in position to fire.

The reload method I prefer during a slide lock back has the support hand seating the magazine, then taking a support grip while the thumb reaches up to release the slide by tripping the slide stop lever.

I suspect your sheriff's deputy friend is trained to pull the slide back and release because it works for both the locked back slide and the slide in the closed position. Said method simplifies training for the lowest common denominator police trainee and eliminates the need to analyze what position the slide is in.

Try both methods and see which is the smoothest and quickest way to get a reloaded pistol back into action.

Pilgrim
 
A double tap is two aimed shots fired quickly as the guy in the video says. However, what he demonstrated were "hammers", two shots very rapidly from a single sight picture. Double taps should be in the .25-.33 second realm between shots. Hammers are under .2 seconds between shots. A six round hammer should take about a second.
 
For fast follow up shots:

I obviously haven't seen you shoot, but grip is the first thing to check. In the youtube link in "related" there is a vid on grip by "shootingcoach". You should be gripping the gun like that. Pay particular attention to the left hand, how the fingers overlap and how the hand rotates forward so the base of the thumb sits in the pocket under the right 2nd thumb knuckle. Arms extended in Iso or Mod Iso stance.

Also make sure your upper body is slightly leaning forward into the gun. Back straight though, no rounding.

I taught this grip to my FIL and his follow up shot speed was immediately improved a lot.
 
Please help me source PX9707L Hi-Cap & Recoil Spring

Gentlemen,

I've owned and loved my Springfield Armory PX9707L for a number of years and have had a problem with it for some time. The last round of any of my 12OEM magazines typically partially feeds requiring me to bump the butt of the pistol to help it into the chamber.

I have 2,000+ rounds through it and have tried to use the magazines evenly, but would like to replace the recoil spring as well as the springs in my magazines.

The recoil spring is a standard 1911 as far as I can tell, 16-1/2 lb. The magazines are double stack 10 round. I've not been able to find them and the manual does not call out a part number for them.

Would you please be so kind as to help me find suitable replacement magazine springs?

thanks!
 
Another good reason to not use the slide stop as a chambering tool...the stop and slide-cut are made to catch the slide on the rebound, and angled for that purpose, with no spring load on the parts....using the stop as a release while under recoil spring pressure will eventually round off the slide cut until it won't hold the slide open...
 
Dustin,


Just an offhand guess, but I think your problem may originate in the ejector. Check to see that it is tight. Look at where your empty brass falls. Each are clues to issues.

Under ideal conditions brass should group. If your springs are all OK then it is mechanics, most likely extractor or ejector. (Ejector is culprit more often than expected).

Issue with feeding is generally ramp or chamber and polishing. Polish with a cloth. An electric tool, like a Dremel, will get you over the line and into new problems.

Go slow.
 
you got it right. its a slide STOP not a lide release.
Click to expand...

Actually...it's both. That's why the top has a textured surface. The gun should function using either method for releasing the slide. If it doesn't...it's not right. Fortunately, the top round issue from slidelock is most often a magazine problem. Look there for the bug before doing anything else.
 
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