Ideal dimensions for a loading bench

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No shallower front to back than 16". I built mine at 16 to use lumber efficiently, but I have always wanted a few more inches. 20 inches seems optimal.
 
I don't think there is one ideal size that will work. We each have our own requirements. If your only going to do 1 function at a time you can get away with a smaller bench. But if your like me I have several things going on at once, which all require there own space. My bench is 30" x 7' long. I have storage bins stacked at the wall so that eats up 8-10" of the bench. Which the out of reach if your sitting down. Have 2 presses on Inline Fabrication removable mounts. One is set up for standing, other sitting.
 
I work out of my garage.(two car) I also garage my two cars. SO, here's what I do, Use any size bench you want, fasten a sturdy piano hinge to the back of it. Fasten a 4 or 5 inch shelf to the wall and fasten the hinged bench to it. When not in use it drops down out of the way. For legs I use 2x2's (2) I put a dowel (1/2inch Dia.) in the end to match the hole I drilled in the bench bottom to hold the legs in place. I also placed 1/4 inch T nuts in the underside to mount the press. To store I simply remove the legs, unbolt the press and drop the bench down. Sets up in about a minute. Works for me. Howie
 
2 of my brothers reload. One has a 2' x 2' bench a few shelves and a tight budget. The other has 12'+ of bench and a bunch of shelves and not such a tight budget. Different strokes for different folks. They are both fine reloaders.
I started out with a 2' x 6' bench and quickly saw where that would lead. So I made a smaller 2' x 4' bench and added a 4' shelving unit next to it. That sort of keeps things under control.....
 
My new bench, when I get finished will be 18" deep and 16' long. This will hold all my reloading, bullet casting and lure making stuff. I'll also have 16' of 12" deep shelving to hold all the "extra" stuff and pegboard behind the loading bench.
 
I use an old teacher's desk. Press on one end. Vice on the other. A wooden cabinet contains my powder. Bullets and dies go in the drawers.
 
30 inches deep X as long as you have room for.
It doesn't matter how long you start with....at some point in time it will get too small.
50 years ago my bench was 30" X 30" ..... now there are two benches 30" wide X 15 feet long on each side of a small building and I still have and use the original 30" X 30" bench !
It Ain't Never Big Enough !
Gary
 
Are you talking about a permanent or temporary structure? Most door ways are about 30" wide, if you plan to move it later that might be a consideration. Average persons arm length is about 24", width should be about the length of your reach. An exception to that would be if the bench is an island that is accessible from all sides.

Went with a modular bench system that can be moved, rearranged, with storage above & below the work surface. Fit my situation, not for everyone.

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Don't forget to make sure you have plenty of outlets...

This was one of my concerns as well. I put them all at the rear below the top so cords wouldn’t be flowing everywhere and control them by two switches mounted on the front of the bench. One for the air compressor and the other for all the outlets.

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I actually just built a bench based on the space in my room. I already had two benches and ran out of room. So I built my third bench 30"Dx35"Hx60"L. I also built a standing shelf unit (3 shelves) to sit on the back 8". Over time, you will need more bench space over whatever you already have.
 
As important as the bench (24x60 in my case) are the peg board at the back and the 72" tall chrome or black wire five high shelving on casters next to it for powder, dies, empty cases, wads, empty cartridge cases, primers, etc. Two safes next to that: one for guns and one for loaded ammo.
 
when I'm using my press, I'm only taking up about 24" of space on my bench. But it sure is nice to have other tools securely mounted on the bench; bench primer, powder measure, etc., and I often keep my reloading manual within reach...
 
I started out working in a spare bedroom with a Harbor Freight woodworking bench, which I believe is 20" depth. I would consider that to be a minimum. For what it is worth, I would consider 20" to be a minimum, and I think 24" would be ideal. I still use the same bench even though I moved into a dedicated workspace (12x20 prefab building).

I did not go the pegboard route. I mounted the shelf brackets over every stud in the building, and for most of the shelves I use the wire type. They don't collect dust, and the ones mounted up high allow me to look through the shelves to see what is there, and also they allow light to pass through.

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Storage is more of an issue than the bench. Brass and bullets are heavy!
 
I would say build it to fit your space, unless you have too much space (said by no one ever!).

I’m currently working on a bench for the corner of my garage between the sink and closet. Mine is going to be L shaped 90” x 43” as measured on the outside part of the L. 30” deep on the long leg and 24” deep on the short leg/foot. Sink will be at the end of the short leg/foot. I think height may be a more important decision than width/depth. I’m going to end up at 42” high (bar height) for mine but it will be a multipurpose bench. I’m 6’2”. Primarily for standing but the lower shelves will be set back on the long run to allow sitting on a stool and be able to put feet/legs under the bench top. Im putting a vice on the right hand corner and thinking about some type of sliding insert around the middle. Still thinking about the insert and how I might use it.

No worthy pics yet just started framing the top up.
 
I would say build it to fit your space, unless you have too much space (said by no one ever!).

I’m currently working on a bench for the corner of my garage between the sink and closet. Mine is going to be L shaped 90” x 43” as measured on the outside part of the L. 30” deep on the long leg and 24” deep on the short leg/foot. Sink will be at the end of the short leg/foot. I think height may be a more important decision than width/depth. I’m going to end up at 42” high (bar height) for mine but it will be a multipurpose bench. I’m 6’2”. Primarily for standing but the lower shelves will be set back on the long run to allow sitting on a stool and be able to put feet/legs under the bench top. Im putting a vice on the right hand corner and thinking about some type of sliding insert around the middle. Still thinking about the insert and how I might use it.

No worthy pics yet just started framing the top up.
I wanted to be able to sit on a stool with mine, which is why I used the Gorilla rack as the base (~19" deep) with a 24" kitchen countertop as the surface
 
3 feet deep, 3 feet high, as long as you can make it, 3/4 ply top, side by side 2x6 core, 3/4 ply bottom so it will not flex.
 
I load standing, so my bench is set for that height without strong mounts (also works with bar stool). I built this with a friend to emulate a 30" x 8' bench I'd used for years while on active duty. It could break down into 4 pieces for moves. Current bench is 20' x 30" 43" high and built into the walls:

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Like others I like a lot of room between my presses. I also have my presses mounted to boards with the same mounting template so I can move them about on the bench depending on what I'm focusing on. My old bench 30' x 8' has now become a cleaning and brass prep area.
 
Had/have a pro cabinet shop. Took these out of a house,we put in full build cherry. These are about 1962-64.

24" is a std for base cabs and allows you to get good mileage out of 4X8 sheet goods. 8' length is also kinda a given. That's basically what this setup is,2'X8' more or less. 20180911_172556_resized.jpg
 
When I built mine I measured my basement door opening. That's where I reload. I built it in my garage and moved it into my basement. I think it's something like 48"Lx28"D. I can measure it if you need exact. That gives you a little more than 8 sf to work on. I generally don't keep powder, cases, primers or bullets on my bench. Just what I'm working with while loading. I have a purpose built cabinet for that stuff.

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Are you talking about a permanent or temporary structure? Most door ways are about 30" wide, if you plan to move it later that might be a consideration. Average persons arm length is about 24", width should be about the length of your reach. An exception to that would be if the bench is an island that is accessible from all sides.

Went with a modular bench system that can be moved, rearranged, with storage above & below the work surface. Fit my situation, not for everyone.

View attachment 814380 View attachment 814381
Those units look like the ones from Sam's Club.................
 
I think it depends on many factors... dedication and scope of your reloading needs or desires... the important one to me is fitting the space well... it took me a lot of years making due ,,, still do but have started purpose building to the space available combined with the need .
 
Are you talking about a permanent or temporary structure? Most door ways are about 30" wide, if you plan to move it later that might be a consideration. Average persons arm length is about 24", width should be about the length of your reach. An exception to that would be if the bench is an island that is accessible from all sides.

Went with a modular bench system that can be moved, rearranged, with storage above & below the work surface. Fit my situation, not for everyone.

View attachment 814380 View attachment 814381

Nice setup. Mine is smaller but similar in the modular approach.

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My reloading bench is a 18" x48" table that used to be a work bench in a locomotive railroad repair facility. My father in law worked for the L&N Railroad. Each of five presses are mounted to their own free standing floor stand. When in use, I move the press to be used next to the table. When not in use, they are located against the wall, out of the way. I also have a floor stand for powder measures. Powder measures not used on progressive press have a shelf stand for the measures not in use.

The table sits in the middle of the reloading area with storage selves and cabinets lining the walls around the area. One of the selves is a heavy steel unit from the same locomotive shop. It holds lots of bullets and brass.

Power to the reloading table is supplied by drop cords from the ceiling.

By having the single, limited space table, if forces me to keep the area relatively tidy so that I can reload.

I got into the floor stands for the presses when I spent a year on temporary duty at one of our paper mills. I took reloading along for entertainment but I had to move out of the room at the end of most weeks. I got to like the ability to move the press around during reloading to keep it comfortable to operate.

As an aside, we have made several moves since I began reloading. Space for my reloading hobby has always been a priority in choosing a new residence including that the reloading space is climate controlled. The space has been in the basement or a bonus room over the garage, but it is identified before acquiring the residence.

It is not necessarily as easy when adding reloading to your current residence. I had to sacrifice a corner in my car shop for my first reloading area as there was no other "free" area in the house.
 
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