IDPA holster

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ny32182

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Part of my pending transition from carry to competition gear for use in IDPA needs to be the holster.

Is there one holster that stands above others for IDPA speed/gaming use for some reason?

I typically buy my IWB's from Comptac. I see they have belt/paddle OWB's that look similar what the top competitors use. Would those be a good choice for top speed in IDPA (noted on the site that they are legal) or is there a different model somewhere that I can't live without? Thanks.
 
A straight-drop Kydex holster of some sort seems to be preferred by a lot of the quicker shooters. Bladetech, Comptac, etc. will all work fine. Unless you are shooting an unusual gun with few options, there will be several fine choices.
 
Good deal... I figured that answer was as likely as any. I will probably go with a Comptac just because I am familiar with them. Is there any particular reason to pick the belt over the paddle or vice versa?
 
Is there any particular reason to pick the belt over the paddle or vice versa?

The belt loop style may hold the gun tighter against your body which is good when you're at a sanctioned match and the SOs are doing equipment checks. You don't want a lot of light visible between your body and the gun.

I'd be very surprised if most paddles were really out of compliance, though. Probably a non-issue.

I happen to feel that the belt loop kind (I use Bladetech's "stingray" style for my CZ) are a bit more secure or less likely to shift fore-and-aft than a paddle.

Having said that, I use a leather belt-slide for my 1911, the xD gear paddle style kydex holster for my xDM, a Shado leather Bruce Nelson style for my revolver ... I'm all over the place and have no real complaints about any of them.
 
I have the Comp-Tac Paddle holster for several guns I shoot in IDPA. It does hold the gun in tight and is completely legal. (I am a SO).

Three things I like about this holster is delivery is usually within a week, Quality and Customer Service is #1 and specifically I like the paddle because too many pants have the belt loops in the wrong position to place the gun where it needs to be for access and legality with IDPA.

The paddle lets you put the gun where it needs to be and is very secure.
 
Most better belt holsters have the belt attachment split, so you can position it straddling a belt loop. Having tried them all, this is the most secure setup I've found.

Comp-Tac also has a 'locking paddle' which, despite its unusual looks, works very well, and combines the security of a belt holster with the convenience (almost) of a paddle.

Larry
 
Has anyone used both the regular paddle and locking paddle, and if so which would you pick and why?
 
Hey? Why not use your IWB model?

I'm a Master class shooter in 3 divisions (It'll never be 4 or 5 gun master because I hate revolvers). Trust me when I tell you that the draw will not be significantly slower from a Comp-Tac IWB than from a belt holster. Now, in USPSA it would, because there is no cover garment.

So, let's say it's .2 seconds slower. That's .2 on any stage, regardless of length. Unless it's a 2 round stage, IT WON'T MATTER. And you get decent practice outta your carry holster--dude, there's value in that.

Right now, I'm using an MTAC for IDPA, and I'm winning matches. Not just my Division, overall, and by a significant margin. The draw isn't what makes ya win a stage, it's (in this order) not getting penalties, getting your hits, target transitions, and split times. Now, movement matters too, but not as much in IDPA as USPSA. Be explosive, and do everything but shoot at top speed. When shooting, go for your natural maximum speed that allows you to shoot 90% -0s or better. Wrangle those in tight and forget the holster. As long as it's secure, it's the least of your concerns in terms of being competitive.

Dan
 
I have been using my exact carry gear including IWB holsters casually for five years. I'm trying to get a little more serious about scoring in IDPA now. I agree that shooting matches with your carry gear is great for giving you reps with that gear. That is actually why I started shooting IDPA in the first place. There is a non-competetive match at my club once a month that I will probably continue to shoot with carry gear.

Now I'll say up front I always carefully consider input from people who shoot MA level consistently, because I can't do that yet. I agree the draw is slightly overrated, but I don't think it is insignificant for two reasons:

1) Speed - If it is .2 seconds per stage difference, that is 1.2 seconds total at a 6 stage club match; 2.4 seconds total at a 12 stage sanctioned match. I've read scores from plenty of matches where the margin of victory was less than that.

2) Consistency - For me, I envision an OWB holster improving my grip consistency on the draw as being as much or more of a potential improvement factor than overall speed. Since the gun is so tight into my hip with the IWB, it is primarily my "fingertips", from the second knuckle down, that are pulling the pistol from the holster. As it is leaving the holster it is settling into the web of my hand, and this results in inconsistency at speed since the pistol is mobile at that point. Sometimes the result is a thrown first shot; sometimes it is an extra 0.x to adjust my grip; sometimes both. If I could get my hand around the grip before the pistol starts moving I think it would make for more consistency.

I've never seen an MA using an IWB before, though I would really like to. Any chance you ever shoot any matches in the southeast?
 
No chance at all! LOL. But I will be at the Illinois State match, and a couple of other bigmatches in the midwest. (I'm in Iowa).

Keep in mind--1.2 seconds is less than shooting one single -3. You don't usually see margins of vicotry like that unless you have Matt Burkett shooting against Scott Warren.

Consistency--my brother IDPA shooter--this is a training issue. Maybe a gear issue? But mainly a training issue. I too started shooting IDPA and USPSA for practice with my carry gear in situations that I couldn't replicate on my own. Thats still why I do it!

I know of 2 MA shooters in Iowa--myself and a commercial pilot who runs the USPSA club south of me, the guy who got me to start a club up here. We're IT. I started using the MTAC last month, I'll be honest. Before that it was a Blackhawk CQC, butI've done a lot of timer work in practice between the two; I may shoot Illinois with the MTAC. I don't really care about winning. There will be sponsored shooters there, after all. But I would like to place well against 'em...LOL.

Okay--ya wanna make Master? Yoou need to shoot .18 splits and .25 tranitions. Your Mozambique should be 3 shots with no pause--<bam, bam, bam>, and your 20 yard shooting must be spot on, and reasonably quick--call it .2 splits and .3 target transitions. My record on stage 3 is down 4. The guy who screws up the least will win that one. <g>

Notice that "Draw really fast" never came up? okay--10 shot stage, 5 targets. Your split time is .3 and transitions are .45. If you get to where I pointed you to, you'll shoot that stage almost 2 seconds faster with the only change being your eye speed and your target transitions. Don't get me wrong, a 1.2 draw helps, reloads help, but the speed of engagement is where it's at on anything but a very small stage. (IMHO)

Dan
 
I'm a Master class shooter in 3 divisions (It'll never be 4 or 5 gun master because I hate revolvers). Trust me when I tell you that the draw will not be significantly slower from a Comp-Tac IWB than from a belt holster. Now, in USPSA it would, because there is no cover garment.

I am a 5 gun master, because I like all firearms. I use comptac for 4 of them and a home made comptac replica for the other. I prefer the speed paddle but use a locking paddle for one. I would say your choice of cover garment makes a bigger difference than what kind of kydex you draw from. I have also won or lost by less than draw time difference on one stage not to mention a number of stages. Every (split) second you can save adds up. Lets say you save a tenth and you spent that extra tenth aiming for one shot makes a hit on steel (save split time) or turns a -1 into a 0 (save .5 seconds). If you want to be on top don't think you can waist any time, if the clock is running time matters. There are a lot of folks that can physically shoot faster than me so when I come out on top it's the things I do (faster) while not pulling the trigger than makes up the difference.
 
I can do the .18 splits, at least within 4 yards or so. Don't know about the rest of it. :what:

I'm not one to blame my performance on gear, but my local MAs advise I switch to competition gear so that is what I'm doing. I'm working on and off with a couple in particular; we have 5 or so at club matches depending, and I count 19 from the sanctioned state match I shot this year; I don't know most of them though.
 
To win the matches, the draw matters. The faster you can get the gun out means you have more time to make an accurate shot.

But, what is your goal? To win matches, or to become the best you can be using your real carry gear?
 
I started shooting IDPA to get reps with my real carry gear, and have been doing that casually for 5 years. I've recently decided I want to win and shoot in sanctioned matches.
 
Comptac paddle came in today; I will need some practice with it since it changes the position of the grip both vertically (higher) and horizonally (outward), but overall I think it will do exactly what I want it to do. It will be slightly faster, but more importantly I can get the web of my hand around the grip before the gun moves. I did about 75 draws with it this afternoon. Looking forward to getting some hot reps with it. Though generally I agree with this:

a 1.2 draw helps, reloads help, but the speed of engagement is where it's at on anything but a very small stage.
 
I am only a SSP MA but the following has not been mentioned. The rulebook discusses some important holster dimensions:

H. May not position the firearm where the breech face (autos)
or rear of the cylinder (revolvers) is below the center of the
belt. NOTE: IWB style holsters are exempt from this criterion.

Not permitted:
H. Cutting of the front edge of the holster more that 1¾” below
the breech face on pistols or 1” below the rear of the cylinder
on revolvers.

So any holster you get I would think the closer to having the breach face to the center of the belt and having the front of the holster open down to 1 ¾” blow the breach face will help with the draw speed.

I use a first generation FOBUS, rivets removed, cut down breach face with a hack saw, shimmed together and tie-wraps in the place of rivets.
- Holds loaded gun upside down.
- Open front down to the legal dimension 1 ¾”
- Breach face just above the center of the belt
- It’s a paddle holster so I added Velcro to hold in position on belt

For carry I use a Fobus evolution.

I agree every split second counts.

I would measure your holster against these dimensional limits.
 
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