I'm looking for nice revolver

[Katitmail]

Keyword is "nice". I'm new to revolvers, I bought GP100 (December 2013) and shoot it for a while. Decided I may need to do trigger work, replace sights and grip.

2014 - GP100 Match Champion came out and I decided to not pay for parts and/or work for mine and sold it. Bought GP100 MC.

GP100 MC is better, but not what I'd like to keep. I think it worth premium over regular GP100, I really do. But it still has raw surfaces inside, sharp edges and burrs. And I thought I didn't like "Read manual" sign on left side.. I don't like "Match Champion" even more I think it's really bad name regardless if you are novice or champion

I want nice 4 inch stainless 357 magnum in about the same form factor. With nice surface, internals, trigger, wood, etc. Just overall nice piece to look at. And it should be a shooter of course, not collectors item.. Possible? What should I be looking for?

 

[Snake Plisskin]

I would be looking for a nice Smith and Wesson 686 would fit your needs

 

[BYJO4]

I think the S&W model 686 is a excellent revolver in all aspects. An excellent condition prelock version would be my choice as they look nicer to me.

 

[Katitmail]

I read all those posts on "dash", "pre-dash" and so on. Can someone explain in simple terms what is this "lock" thingy?


And what about Colt revolvers? Are they expensive because of collectors value or they made better than S&W?

 

[Tacoma]

Colt is expensive as they are collected by people with too much money
Seriously, they are nice but not necessarily better in any way than a comparable S&W. If you want a high quality revolver, look no further than S&W. They are the benchmark in todays market and very affordable if you shop smart and used.
If you want stainless. 357 in a mid sized gun then either the 686 or 66 will fit the bill. Respectively 681 or 65 if you like fixed sights. The 68x is the larger L frame while the 6x series are the original K frame. ( L frame is close to the GP100in bulk/ size)
"dash" numbers are just engineering revisions at the plant done mostly for predictability/cost reasons. Lower dash numbers are almost always considered more collectable but all are good. Models made before 82' will have a pin in the frame where the barrel joins and recessed cylinders. These are also features that are considered desirable ( but add little /nothing in function.)
The "lock" will appear as a tiny hole just above the cylinder release. It's on newer models and installed as a safety feature. Most S&W collectors hate the lock. I've owned well over 100 S&W revolvers and never had any issues with them. Too much to list here. There is a great S&W forum out there if you search though.

Bottom line: Buy a smith and never look back.

hth

 

[PiratePenguin]

The lock is an internal "safety" feature. It disables the revolver when used. Some people have reported that the lock can be accidentally engaged on some models through normal shooting, so it's not very popular.

 

[dbmjr1]

I'm going to buck the trend. What you really want is a Dan Wesson 715VH. A pistol pack would be nice.

Sweetest trigger on a revolver. Open the side plate and marvel at it's simplicity. It may be a bit rough inside, but that's normal, and won't effect function.

Interchangeable barrels and sights make it uber versatile.

Perhaps not the most elegant revolver made, but it's function makes up for any shortcomings in aesthetics.

Oh, and it rotates in the right direction.

 

[Vodoun da Vinci]

I'm going to buck the trend. What you really want is a Dan Wesson 715VH. A pistol pack would be nice.

Sweetest trigger on a revolver. Open the side plate and marvel at it's simplicity. It may be a bit rough inside, but that's normal, and won't effect function.

Interchangeable barrels and sights make it uber versatile.

Perhaps not the most elegant revolver made, but it's function makes up for any shortcomings in aesthetics.

Oh, and it rotates in the right direction.

I'll second a Dan Wesson. My preference would be a 15-2VH with a 6" barrel. I have one of these and it is a second version of the very first revolver (very first handgun) I ever owned. I also have a 4" barrel and a 2 1/2" coming and 4 grips ranging from fancy finger groove hardwood to rubber combat style grip.

Beautiful guns with a deep blue finish and a robust revolver that is a tack driver right out of the box. Stainless or Blue in any barrel length the Dan Wessons are my choice of a beautiful, shootable revolver.

VooDoo

 

[orionengnr]

I read all those posts on "dash", "pre-dash" and so on. Can someone explain in simple terms what is this "lock" thingy?

S&W dash-upgrades depend upon the model, and are easily found...search is your friend. Likewise the lock. Tons and tons of info available at your fingertips. Start wit "S&W ILS" and go from there.

And what about Colt revolvers? Are they expensive because of collectors value or they made better than S&W?

Colt has not built revolvers for quite a while. As a result, pretty much all of their revolvers are "collector" items...whether they are actually quantifiably "better" or not is another issue. And subject to considerable discussion.

 

[tomrkba]

I want nice 4 inch stainless 357 magnum in about the same form factor. With nice surface, internals, trigger, wood, etc. Just overall nice piece to look at. And it should be a shooter of course, not collectors item.. Possible? What should I be looking for?

Not really unless a gunsmith goes over it. You never know what you're going to get in a used gun. It turns out my Model 24 had a J-Frame spring in there! Someone did a home trigger job at one point, though they did manage to keep the sideplate screws pristine.

Of all the current production revolvers out there, my favorite is the GP100. I think it is the best. S&W's current production revolvers can be good, but several examples I have seen in gun stores were not put together well (dinged sideplates, barrels not centered, etc).

S&W prelocks, on the other hand are very nice. The problem is getting parts and maintaining them. Sand Burr Gun Ranch helped me out when S&W was unable to do so. It's up to you which way to jump, but the GP100 Match Champion seems to me to be a top notch revolver that will do everything you would ask a 357 Magnum revolver to do.

My GP100 needed no trigger work out of the box. It felt as smooth as any other revolver I have with a tuned trigger (and I have an excellent example from Grant Cunningham). I even sent it back to the factory and they slicked up the replacement trigger parts. It came back with a better trigger.

Keep in mind the features on the GP100 MC that will cost quite a bit to acquire (not to mention a $76 FedEx trip ONE way):

Chamfered charge holes
Removable front sight
Angled cylinder
Good trigger

You can easily add night sights without a gunsmith. I paid $175 to have Meprolights installed on my S&W Model 24. Don't forget, it's $152 in (roundtrip) shipping before any work is done.

The only gun that I can think of right now that has those features (including a slightly beveled front edge on the cylinder) is the S&W M&P R8 or TRR8. However, it has the S&W internal firing pin which cannot stand up to frequent dry fire (with AZOOM SnapCaps). Changing it is easy, but you shouldn't have to do it in the first place. Firing pins from other manufacturers are available that may withstand the dry firing. And, it still has THE LOCK! :banghead:

 

[Katitmail]

Keep in mind the features on the GP100 MC that will cost quite a bit to acquire (not to mention a $76 FedEx trip ONE way):

Chamfered charge holes
Removable front sight
Angled cylinder
Good trigger

I'm not 100% about GP100 MC trigger yet. It's brand new and GP100 had about 300 rounds through it. I honestly can't tell if it's better. I probably need to go and measure pull just to make sure.

I'm aware of all the features and thats a reason I dropped GP100 for this one.

However, I don't know what you mean saying sights are good. I'd rather keep regular GP100 sights. $23 front HiViz sight works much better for me than this "blob". And rear sight was adjustable. Now I have fixed front(there is no pin like in GP100) and rear adjustable for windage only. Kind of stupid. I bet there is none aftermarket available yet...

 

[Fremmer]

Buy a new Smith and Wesson. Don't worry about the lock, or disable it.

 

[Katitmail]

I kind of like 686 SSR, this suppose to be ready to go out of the box. I guess I need to handle it somewhere and see if it really so cool

 

[Crunchy Frog]

When I first got interested in handgunning, the .357 revolver was king. The choice was Smith & Wesson, Colt or Ruger (OK, the Dan Wesson also had a strong following; my college roommate had a Dan Wesson .357 and it was a great revolver).

Colt has long since abandoned the double action revolver market. You will pay a "collector's" premium for a Colt now.

In my opinion, there is nothing wrong with a Ruger DA revolver. In my youth, I wanted a Colt Python but didn't think I could afford one, so I ended up with a Ruger Security Six .357. It was not as "refined" as a Smith & Wesson but I put thousands of rounds through that revolver and it has performed well.

When S&W introduced the "L frame" .357 revolvers it seemed to me to be an almost perfect revolver. I bought one of the "no dash" four inch 686 revolvers and shot the doghair out of that revolver.

It's hard to go wrong with a 686. Since I bought mine S&W introduced the seven shot "plus" models. I am keeping my eyes open for a five or six inch barreled 686 plus.

I would prefer one that does not have the external lock, but I could probably live with one of the late models.

 

[Poper]

Colt has not built revolvers for quite a while. As a result, pretty much all of their revolvers are "collector" items...whether they are actually quantifiably "better" or not is another issue. And subject to considerable discussion.

Not true. Colt still makes single action revolvers. They quit making double action revolvers.

Colt Python revolvers are very, very nice and very, very good shooters. There are still "affordable" Pythons to be found, but it will take diligence and effort. Colt made a lot of them like nearly 700,000 of them if memory serves me correctly.
Prices of Pythons (or any of Colt's "snake" guns) in collectible condition and configurations are going for silly money. The "shooter" grade ones are generally in the $1200 to $1600 neighborhood. I bought a 4" python that showed significant holster wear but was mechanically perfect and showed very little evidence of being fired for $1125. They are out there, and as has been said before, "The search is more than half the fun."

Good luck with whatever you decide to buy.

 

[Stevel]

Instead of a new revolver at the moment, $15 on some 38/357 snap caps and pull the trigger about 5000 times. Then you will have a good idea how the trigger will be. I'd also suggest a $12 Wolfe spring kit.

Once you've settled into the GP for a while, then look around to see if something better meets your needs.

If you want a revolver that has all what you want there is always the Python route ("nice" examples about $2000 or so), or send the MC to a gunsmith and have them clean it up.

All previous is just one opinion of course.....

 

[ColtPythonElite]

Colt King Cobra

 

[Kernel]

The Smith & Wesson Model 66 is one you should consider. It's what's called a K-frame revolver. The K-frame was S&W's bread and butter for 80 years, since it's the direct decedent of a design Smith brought out around the turn of the 19th century.

The M66 was a very common law enforcement sidearm in the 70's and 80's. For that reason many were made, and there are still a lot on the market today. Anything you want, from a $250 well worn police turn-in, to a $650 unfired "no dash" collectible, to the current 2014 production version.

The picture shows a Model 66-4 with a 4" barrel and the less common round butt configuration.

 

[Katitmail]

To be honest 66 model doesn't look appealing to me (new user).

Colts look great (king cobra), but they kind of expensive And when looking at detailed pictures I see the same raw surfaces on a frame, so this aspect is not better than Ruger's

Snap caps: Are they necessary? I read that Ruger with transfer bar can be dry fired as much as I want. Not true?

 

[Ash]

Ruger specifically states you can dry fire their revolvers.

 

[788Ham]

Start looking around for Colt revolvers, they are out there, and they are not all in the $2000 range. I picked up a Colt Trooper .38 Spl 4" at a pawn, $325 OTD. Still had the original box, original grips, slight holster wear on the RT muzzle area, carried a lot, but shot little. Very, very accurate. I realize you might be looking for a .357 revolver, but they're out there !

 

[Katitmail]

I shoot 38sp rounds, so 357 is not really a requirement. I just like the beefy frame and form-factor of GP100/686 type of revolver.

 

[ColtPythonElite]

Describe "raw surface frame", please.

 

[Katitmail]

All this doesn't look any better than Ruger at least on pictures. Like I said maybe I'm just too picky

 

[ColtPythonElite]

Yes, you are too picky. Those hidden areas are gonna be mill finished only on most.