rswartsell
Member
Maybe you are unless you can afford a Korth.
I'm looking for nice revolver
- Thread starter Katitmail
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It's mill finished partially, most of it plain cast surface
ColtPythonElite
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Rugers frames are cast...Colts are forged.
Perhaps this is a bit less (not much) than a Korth:
http://www.jtl.de/english/revolver/revolver_e.htm
Here is a Czech one if someone imports them:
http://www.alfa-proj.cz/en/products/firearms/licensed-arms/revolvers/
http://www.czechpoint-usa.com/alfa-proj-revolvers
and the Munurhin:
http://www.chapuis-armes.com/26-manurhin
I have had Rugers, Dan Wessons, Smiths and Colt Pythons and they all will have some roughness in the areas you show. In most cases finishing these areas would do nothing but raise cost. Given your comments probably it would have been better to retain the original GP100. The adjustable sight could have been replaced with a Bowen Target or Rough Country(several blade configurations) and the front sight with tritium or custom gold bead. The internals could have been smoothed and shimmed as on the Match Champion. Here is a link to Gemini Customs to show what can be done with the GP100:
https://www.geminicustoms.com/ruger-revolvers/
It is possible to remove the lettering on the side without too much work. The Ruger Forums have a number of ways suggested.
http://www.jtl.de/english/revolver/revolver_e.htm
Here is a Czech one if someone imports them:
http://www.alfa-proj.cz/en/products/firearms/licensed-arms/revolvers/
http://www.czechpoint-usa.com/alfa-proj-revolvers
and the Munurhin:
http://www.chapuis-armes.com/26-manurhin
I have had Rugers, Dan Wessons, Smiths and Colt Pythons and they all will have some roughness in the areas you show. In most cases finishing these areas would do nothing but raise cost. Given your comments probably it would have been better to retain the original GP100. The adjustable sight could have been replaced with a Bowen Target or Rough Country(several blade configurations) and the front sight with tritium or custom gold bead. The internals could have been smoothed and shimmed as on the Match Champion. Here is a link to Gemini Customs to show what can be done with the GP100:
https://www.geminicustoms.com/ruger-revolvers/
It is possible to remove the lettering on the side without too much work. The Ruger Forums have a number of ways suggested.
Original GP100 is gone. I have GP100 MC on my hands. Didn't shoot it yet.
My ideal sights is black on back and fiber in front. This is what MC have (Novaks) but they are not adjustable and they don't mount same as regular GP100, thats a problem.
My ideal sights is black on back and fiber in front. This is what MC have (Novaks) but they are not adjustable and they don't mount same as regular GP100, thats a problem.
tomrkba
Member
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- May 30, 2010
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- 2,370
I have spent nearly $10,000 on revolvers in the past eight years. I could have had a Korth at a mere $4,700.
You are being far too picky and are acting like a collector. If the gun is for collecting, then I understand the issues you have with the gun. However, it seems to me that you will be carrying and shooting this gun. In that case, the gun is just fine for the purpose. You should see the ugly mill marks on the inside of my SIGs' slides. They do not affect the function of the gun, so SIG leaves them there (and have always done so as far as I can tell, at least since 1997). I could care less about such things on a carry gun because it's going to get dinged up in training.
If the rear sight is a problem, then get a sight tool to drift it. You could always replace it.
No, I'm not collector. Won't carry it either, maybe on a hunt in addition to rifle/shotgun. But I will shoot it without thinking twice about retained value. I'm shooting all my guns and don't worry about "value".
I'm not sure if it makes sense but I'm trying to change gun purchase habbits so I don't collect stuff in a safe but have only things I like to shoot and show/look at.
I wonder if I should get 686 SSR instead. Kind of like looks of it and priced very close.
I'm not sure if it makes sense but I'm trying to change gun purchase habbits so I don't collect stuff in a safe but have only things I like to shoot and show/look at.
I wonder if I should get 686 SSR instead. Kind of like looks of it and priced very close.
One could have a good gunsmith weld up the rear sight slot in the topstrap and install a S&W type sight on it (they are the easiest to install) and Bowen makes rear sights for it:
http://parts.bowenclassicarms.com/i...Path=3&zenid=fc1d5572ac37d5880c16edaf10d7c30c
The gunsmith should be able to fit the proper front sight to suit your preference to go with the rear. Here is the link to one gunsmith I can think of that does such work (Jim Stroh of Alpha Precision):
http://www.alphaprecisioninc.com/
and the link showing a pic of some adjustables installed on a Ruger fixed sight SP101:
http://www.alphaprecisioninc.com/revolver/images/gallery_images/RugerSP1012.JPG
http://parts.bowenclassicarms.com/i...Path=3&zenid=fc1d5572ac37d5880c16edaf10d7c30c
The gunsmith should be able to fit the proper front sight to suit your preference to go with the rear. Here is the link to one gunsmith I can think of that does such work (Jim Stroh of Alpha Precision):
http://www.alphaprecisioninc.com/
and the link showing a pic of some adjustables installed on a Ruger fixed sight SP101:
http://www.alphaprecisioninc.com/revolver/images/gallery_images/RugerSP1012.JPG
boricua9mm
Member
Comparing my S&W pre-lock guns to my Wiley Clapp Ruger GP100, the Smith and Wessons are far more refined and they just look and feel as if they were built with much more TLC.
Comparing my beloved Smith and Wessons to a hand-fitted 60s Colt Python makes the S&Ws look rather pedestrian.
I think you might just need to get your hands on more of them to see if you can see and feel the nuances. To me it is plain as day.
Comparing my beloved Smith and Wessons to a hand-fitted 60s Colt Python makes the S&Ws look rather pedestrian.
I think you might just need to get your hands on more of them to see if you can see and feel the nuances. To me it is plain as day.
Katitmail said:
The 686SSR is a nice gun. IMO, though, the factory "tuning" of the SSR is very conservative, so a well-tuned standard 686 will very likely be the better shooting gun. If you don't want to mess with having a new 686 tuned (or if you just like how they look), the SSR variant is an option. The interchangeable front sight is a nice feature, and installation of an interchangeable front sight on a standard 686 will cost about $200ish, though you can have a pinned-in fiber optic installed for much less.
tomrkba
Member
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- May 30, 2010
- Messages
- 2,370
Keep the Ruger GP100 MC and try the 686. You'll likely end up keeping both because they're both great shooters.
Ah, yes, "The Eternal Struggle". You'll never win, especially if you're subscribed to any of the gun picture threads on this forum. And...just to make you feel pain in your wallet since "wimpy" 357 Magnum isn't much more than a fast moving BB:
S&W Model 24 with Ahrends stocks
Ruger Alaskan in 44 Magnum
S&W Model 58 in 41 Magnum
Last edited:
627PCFan
Member
ColtPythonElite
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- Jan 8, 2011
- Messages
- 10,475
Well since we are posting pics:
don quixote
Member
- Joined
- Aug 16, 2010
- Messages
- 19
Get the SSR. I have one and everybody that has shot it has been super impressed. Looks sexy, trigger is fantastic. My favorite gun I own to shootl
BlindJustice
Member
Katitmail
Same as the S&W 686 but not stainless steel
you might like the finish better
S&W 486 'Class' aka Distinguished Combat Magnum
4" & 6"Bbl LEn.
Blued Carbon Steel Wood Grips
http://www.smith-wesson.com/webapp/...57903_757767_757751_ProductDisplayErrorView_Y
Randall
Same as the S&W 686 but not stainless steel
you might like the finish better
S&W 486 'Class' aka Distinguished Combat Magnum
4" & 6"Bbl LEn.
Blued Carbon Steel Wood Grips
http://www.smith-wesson.com/webapp/...57903_757767_757751_ProductDisplayErrorView_Y
Randall
AABEN
Member
S&W 586 or 686 You can not go wrong!!
larbear
Member
I used a 686 for years, thousands of rounds never skipped a beat. I think Smith&Wesson is the way to go.
pittspilot
Member
I'm partial to the Model 27
Not the best picture, but this is my 27-1. It now wears period correct grips. Guess I need a new picture.
Not the best picture, but this is my 27-1. It now wears period correct grips. Guess I need a new picture.
BlindJustice
Member
I have a S&W 625 5" Bbl.
& it's had the Master Revolver Action Job $150 at the time at S&W
It also has Guy Hogue full profile checkered w/finger grooves rosewood
grip The gunsmith that opened it up for the APex Ignition system ie
forged firing pin said, it's all shiny in there.... that's wat they
do with the MRAJ.
S&W Model 27 is the top of the line .357 Mag
they came all polished up inside with extra frills on the top strap of the
frame etc Always wanted one with a 5" bbl.
My .357 ?
S&W Model 60-15 3" Bbl. ramp front W&E Adj. rear
it needs different grips
R-
.
& it's had the Master Revolver Action Job $150 at the time at S&W
It also has Guy Hogue full profile checkered w/finger grooves rosewood
grip The gunsmith that opened it up for the APex Ignition system ie
forged firing pin said, it's all shiny in there.... that's wat they
do with the MRAJ.
S&W Model 27 is the top of the line .357 Mag
they came all polished up inside with extra frills on the top strap of the
frame etc Always wanted one with a 5" bbl.
My .357 ?
S&W Model 60-15 3" Bbl. ramp front W&E Adj. rear
it needs different grips
R-
.
scythefwd
Member
You want internals that have no bearing or function on how the gun performs or feels in the hand or effects the trigger pull weight.
Stop looking at ruger, smith and colt. NONE of them polish everything except maybe on some of the pythons and the very expensive custom shop guns.
You're looking for a top teir revolver. Affordable.. not to me but maybe to some.
Start looking for a Korth.
Stop looking at ruger, smith and colt. NONE of them polish everything except maybe on some of the pythons and the very expensive custom shop guns.
You're looking for a top teir revolver. Affordable.. not to me but maybe to some.
Start looking for a Korth.
ArchAngelCD
Member.
I was going to suggest the M686 SSR and I see you already are looking at it. IMO it's exactly what you're looking for from what you have posted. It's part of the Pro Series so it's a cut above the standard catalog revolvers. (although it's really only what the other revolvers should be anyway!)
It has work done to it already like:
• Chamfered Charge Holes
• Custom Barrel with Recessed Precision Crown
• Bossed Mainspring
• Ergonomic Grip to Force High-Hand Hold
It's a really nice revolver, I have shot a friends M686 SSR and I was very impressed.
http://www.smith-wesson.com/webapp/...57895_757775_757751_ProductDisplayErrorView_Y
If you can spend a little more and you want something even heftier there is the Performance Center M627. That one is an N frame instead of an L frame and has a 5" barrel instead of the 4" barrel. It also holds 8 rounds instead of 6 which I kinda like.
http://www.smith-wesson.com/webapp/...75660_775655_757896_ProductDisplayErrorView_Y
Interesting fact. I did what we call "wall test". It's when people not related to guns who don't know anything about guns go by picture. Between GP100 Match Champion and 686 SSR all votes were GP100 as "more modern and stylish". Here we go 
Just being curious about factory "trigger tuning" I did some disassembly yesterday. As I said I didn't feel any difference. Lyman trigger pull gauge shows 4 1/3lb single stage and sometimes 11lb and sometimes maxes out on double stage. Those numbers not what many reviews online (sponsored?) show. Ruger doesn't advertise it though.
What Ruger says in general description "tuned action". In sales booklet they say "Match tuned action with polished and optimized internals..." and so on.
Upon disassembly I found that hammer was shimmed (good) but trigger group parts didn't have even slight clue of polishing.
With standard GP100 I noticed it was pinching my finger (search online), while dryfiring this one I noticed that indeed it does pinch my finger. Not sure what exactly was done to trigger - but it doesn't feel any different to me. Trigger guard below trigger need to be smoothed out, has very sharp corners that catch skin on a finger.
Just being curious about factory "trigger tuning" I did some disassembly yesterday. As I said I didn't feel any difference. Lyman trigger pull gauge shows 4 1/3lb single stage and sometimes 11lb and sometimes maxes out on double stage. Those numbers not what many reviews online (sponsored?) show. Ruger doesn't advertise it though.
What Ruger says in general description "tuned action". In sales booklet they say "Match tuned action with polished and optimized internals..." and so on.
Upon disassembly I found that hammer was shimmed (good) but trigger group parts didn't have even slight clue of polishing.
With standard GP100 I noticed it was pinching my finger (search online), while dryfiring this one I noticed that indeed it does pinch my finger. Not sure what exactly was done to trigger - but it doesn't feel any different to me. Trigger guard below trigger need to be smoothed out, has very sharp corners that catch skin on a finger.
I would seriously doubt any unmolested factory 686 or GP100 will have a DA trigger pull under 10lbs, no matter how much factory "tuning" it received. 11lbs - 12lbs is about normal.
More important than pull weight is how smooth the action is. I'd take factory weight and smooth over light and rough any day.
"Match-tuned" is subjective. Again, the factory tuning is relatively conservative (read: minimal), and serious match shooters nearly all have their actions tuned by gunsmiths (or themselves) rather than the factory. Still, the Ruger Match Champ and S&W SSR have some features not on the standard version, so if one just wants to shoot a factory gun without having to deal with having a gunsmith work on it, they are viable options.
More important than pull weight is how smooth the action is. I'd take factory weight and smooth over light and rough any day.
"Match-tuned" is subjective. Again, the factory tuning is relatively conservative (read: minimal), and serious match shooters nearly all have their actions tuned by gunsmiths (or themselves) rather than the factory. Still, the Ruger Match Champ and S&W SSR have some features not on the standard version, so if one just wants to shoot a factory gun without having to deal with having a gunsmith work on it, they are viable options.
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