Inaccurate Yugo M48

[angry_platypus]

So I have this Yugo Mauser, and I can't get it to print at all. To the extent that I can't even hit the paper at 25 yards consistently. So, I'm trying to figure out why. I've given it a ridiculously thorough cleaning, I've tried Yugo surplus ammo, and new commercial stuff. It has a really dark bore, but the rifling is still there and looks strong as far as I can tell. The crown doesn't look damaged, but this is my first milsurp, and my only other rifle is a 10/22, so I don't exactly know what I should be looking for. Anyone have any thoughts as to what would make this rifle so dreadfully inaccurate? I mean, I would think it would at least hit the paper at 25 yards consistently, so I'm starting to wonder if it isn't a total loss.

 

[pbhome71]

Make sure that your sight is not loose in any way.

Check all the action screws. If I remember correctly, here is one in the front of the mag well, one in the back of the mag well, and one right after trigger guard.

Have you try to put a cartridge down the muzzel? How far did it go in?

I have 2 Yugo. One is very accurate. However, at 25 yards, it should be able to print a group. Not hitting paper may be the sight is way off?

Good Luck.

-Pat

 

[BigG]

If it's a typical milsurp bolt action, it is probably set to shoot a minimum of about 500 yards. In other words the rear sight will not go lower. You need to aim at the bottom of the edge of the paper to maybe hit the top edge. Try that and report back. HTH

 

[MilsurpShooter]

Check the ladder sight, make sure it's not cantered left or right, should be roughly flat against the barrel. Perhaps something is wrong with the leaf spring holding it on there?

Take one of your rounds and place it, nose first in the barrel, see how far the bullet drops down. Should roughly go to the first wide point of the bullet and stop. There are two screws located on the bottom, check and make sure those are relatively tight.

Take the barrel and action out of the stock and visually inspect the barrel to make sure it's straight, ruler, yardstick, straight 2x4 will help with this. Move it along the barrel from action to muzzle and see if you notice any gaps between barrel and the straight edge.

And it may sound stupid but what are the dimensions/measurements of your ammo and are you sure your M-48 wasn't re-chambered for a larger round?

 

[angry_platypus]

Ok, so I checked the action screws, both were tight. The sights don't seem to be loose, took it apart and checked the barrel with a ruler, seems straight as far as I can tell. It's marked 8mm by CAI, so I have no reason to believe it's chambered in anything else, but I have no way to check that on my own. Only thing I can think is the muzzle, I put a round in, and it seems like it might be going in too far, but I can't really tell, like I said, this is my first centerfire rifle, so I don't know what's normal. I've attached two pictures, one is of the round in the muzzle, the other is the round itself, I drew a line on it around where it stops. There's 24mm of bullet protruding from the casing, and the line is 17mm away from the end of the round. Maybe someone here with more experience can tell me if this is normal, or if there's excessive muzzle wear? I don't know what else would be wrong with it other than that.

 

[GRIZ22]

The muzzle wear looks fine. Did you make sure the sight is at it's lowest range like jay said (mine goes down to 100 meters).

 

[Lovesbeer99]

I'd get a realy big piece of cardboard, maybe even tape several together so that you have a 4x4 target. Then try shooting again and see where you are hitting. Is it always to the same side, is it totally random?

If that doesn't help take it to a gunsmith and have it checked for headspace.
(if the bolt doesn't match the reciever, and even sometimes if it does, you might have a headspace issue). It can be fixed.

Shoot safe - (I do)

Lovesbeer99

 

[MilsurpShooter]

Hmm, ok CAI 8mm import is the same as my Yugo M48. And don't worry, I thought the same thing about the bullet when I did my first test, the thing to remember is that the bullet stops at it's first widest point so the tip goes in a bit of a ways before stopping.

Ok, so the common problems are out of the way, is your gun all matching numbers? For instance, if you check the number on the floor plate, and compare it with the number on the bolt, are they the same?

How is the headspace? If you don't have the Go or No Go gauge a poor mans test would be covering the back end of the bullet with a piece of Masking tape, just make sure it's not wider then the bolt face, want to see if the bolt closes and locks, won't do that if the tape jams up the extractor. I've heard of people putting one piece on and the bolt not being able to close, if you have to add more then 2 pieces then I'd shelve the gun and have a proffesional look at it.

What type of Surplus is it you use? I've fired a number of brands out of mine and found that Ecuadorian ammo is horrible in my gun.

 

[MechAg94]

What do you mean by hitting paper consistently? Are you hitting dead center one shot then a foot left with another shot? Describe a 5 shot scenario and where each one would go.

What kind of target are you using? Letter size paper or a big rifle target? How far off is "missing paper".

Are you using a stable bench?

 

[angry_platypus]

I do have the sight down as far as it goes (200m on mine). All the serial numbers match up, and I checked the headspace, it would close on one piece of tape, but wouldn't close on two, so I'm guessing the headspace is fine. The surplus ammo is Yugoslavian surplus, which I hear mixed reviews on, but I also tried some Remington Express and had the same problem so I'm pretty confident it isn't the ammo. The targets I was using are "100 yard sighting targets," they're 14"x14" so they aren't huge.

What will happen is this, the first shot will hit say, the far lower right of the target, the next 3 won't even hit the target (the backer is shot up enough that I can't tell where they hit) and then the 5th shot will hit the center of the target or the far upper left, or really anywhere. The whole time I'm holding on the center. Obviously that's just an example... the shots will basically just be all over the place without any kind of consistency. I'm shooting from bags off of a rather sturdy bench.

Now, I wouldn't rule out the possibility that I'm the problem. Like I said before, this is my first centerfire, all I've shot before this is a 22 and a shotgun, could it be I've just got a ridiculous flinch going on?

 

[MythBuster]

It is obvious what is happening here. His only other rifle is a .22.

He starts shooting a rifle with a huge muzzle blast and heavy recoil.

You figure out the rest.

 

[BigG]

could it be I've just got a ridiculous flinch going on?

The rifle will only do what you tell it to. You are the boss. You may be flinching. In that case the rifle is all over the place because you are not in control. You have to eliminate one variable at a time. Cure the possible flinch, then move on to the next thing if that doesn't fix the groups.

 

[MilsurpShooter]

Yeah but the M48 recoil is comprable to a shotgun no? I know I had bruises the very first time I fired my M48 lol.

Ok here's what you do. Head out to Wally World or some other gun place and find a Pacmyer slip on recoil pad, medium size IIRC, it's going to fit very snug but it'll go on with some coaxing. That steel buttplate on your rifle is very unforgiving, very good for breaking cocnuts though lol.

Don't worry so much about aiming, just learn how to fire with the recoil pad and feel the difference, might help if you bring a bandanna or something as well, put it under your shirt on your shoulder. Remember, no shame in a recoil pad, especially for guns like this. Heck I've asked people if they want to take a shot or two and they decline saying they like there shoulders when they're not dislocated.

And I did have a flinch in the beginning. I noticed it greatly the first time I had a FTF from the Ecuadorian. Pulled the trigger, clicked and saw my front site jump even though the round never went off.

Recoil Pad, make sure it's firmly on your shoulder, I actually put pressure on mine and pull it into my shoulder slightly, and then just standard shooting practice after that.

For a sure fire test, I know the Range Officers at the place I go will do it, have them take a few shots with the rifle. I consistantly hit to the right and in the 8 ring with my rifle. One of the range guys talked me through some things, gave me some pointers, then sat down and fired off 5 rounds himself after I expalined to him where I was aiming and where I was holding. All his went in the X ring so I knew from there it was me that was me doing it and not the sites on the rifle.

 

[cracked butt]

Try some remington 8x57 ammo if you can find it, its very lightly loaded and is of higher quality than some fo the milsurp out there.

Work on cheekweld and triggerpull. YOur cheekbone needs to be in the exact same spot from one shot to the next. The method I use is to rest my cheek against a joint on my right thumb the same way every time. Trigger pull-pull the trigger back with a light touch until it stops, at this point pres the trigger with increasign pressure until it breaks. If you jerk the triger, you will get no accuracy whatsoever.

As far as recoil goes a recoil pad will help you some, good hearing protection will help you more. Most recoil is perceived, better hearing protection reduces this perception. The steel buttplate on the yugo is not a problem, its a lot wider than many sporting rifles and distributes recoil over a larger surface. If the recoil of the rifle hurts, you have the butt of the gun planted in the wrong spot. It needs to be held firmly in the meaty part of the shoulder 1/2 down the collar bone - resting it on the collar bone or shoulder joint is not only incorrect, but its going to hurt.

 

[Geno]

MythBuster:

Any affiliation with the Myth Buster Program? Or just like the program as much as I do? By the way, I see you are new here. Welcome! You will like this forum. Most of the people are quite professional, and contribute to informative discussions on a very diverse set of topics.

Doc2005

 

[angry_platypus]

Alright, so it's definitely sounding like it's probably me then. I'll go pick up a recoil pad before I hit the range this weekend, I'll also see if I can't find some better hearing protection. Probably pick up some disposable plugs and double up. Most of my shotgun shooting has been with light target loads shooting trap, so recoil-wise wasn't that bad, the M48 is a lot worse. I think I'll also try to get a big piece of posterboard or cardboard or something, maybe that will help me figure out what's going on. I do have some Remington 8x57, so I'll give that a try as well, see if I have any better luck with that. Worst case I'll see if there is anyone else at the range I can ask to take a few shots, eliminate myself as the source of the problem.

Assuming this is me flinching, anyone have any other advice on how to best get rid of the flinch? Obviously the recoil pad and better hearing protection... I guess dry firing a lot might help too?

 

[Riss]

If you have flinch, which I acquired after getting a Savage in 300 WSM, it will take some work to undo the problem. You just need to sit down and shoot. The advice to use better "ears" is good. If you have the cheapo clamshell type that have foam in them, take them apart and remove the foam. Mask the outside with tape and spray rubber undercoating inside them. It will help to deaden the plastic and give another layer for the noise to get through. A good coating or two will do the job. Reassemble them and go to the range. WAIT a day for the undercoat to dry first. Shoot from a bag of some sort. Anything you got, school gym bag, backpack, anything. Then put a sling on the rifle. It will help to hold the rifle in position ON your shoulder. If it sits in front of your shoulder the recoil will feel like you are getting punched. BECAUSE YOU ARE. Then just take your time, line up your shot, pull the gun in good to your shoulder, BREATHE, confirm aiming point, gently pull gun in to you, breathe out, SLOWLY pull the trigger until it goes BOOM. Remember that the exact moment that the gun goes off should be a surprise. You know its going to go off, so keep the rifle shouldered, aimed and breathe easily. Best time to shoot is when breathing out, slowly. Take your time. Trigger control, breathe control and sights is all you need.

 

[Cosmoline]

What will happen is this, the first shot will hit say, the far lower right of the target, the next 3 won't even hit the target (the backer is shot up enough that I can't tell where they hit) and then the 5th shot will hit the center of the target or the far upper left, or really anywhere.

Sounds like a loose receiver. Check your screws. The Yugos aren't usually tack drivers, but they are good workaday Mausers and unless something is dangerously wrong should not be behaving this way. Either that or you're really jerking it.

To eliminate possible flinch, shoot it in a rest or sled.

 

[silverlance]

well, the yugos are pretty lousy in terms of accuracy, at least most of the ones on the market, but my totally beat up m48 can still do about 6-8" groups at 50 yards. i figure at 100 i'll confidently be able to do minute of Hairy Fat Man.

I have a somewhat unconventional suggestion. Ditch the bags,t he rest, the sled, all that crud. Get down on one knee, support your supprting arm on your leg, take two sharp quick breaths, hold the 3rd, focus on the front sight, put the center of the target (ideally with a big orange sticker on it) on top of the front sight, then let five or six shots fly.

You may find yoursel fdoing better this way.

You see, many people get into such awkward positions using bags on a bench that they screw up their aim. i no longer shoot sitting down. when i want a supported position, i kneel on the ground and support myself off of the seat. this is partially because i'm short but i've see tall people try to contort themselves into wierd positions as well.

kev

ps: here is a pic of what you're supposed to do.

 

[RUT]

>>Any affiliation with the Myth Buster Program?<<

Is that you Carrie??

 

[cracked butt]

well, the yugos are pretty lousy in terms of accuracy,

I used to think that too, until I fed mine handloads. I almost gave up on it after shooting turk ammo for the first time- my turk, czech and persian mausers all shot turk ammo from degrees of ok to spectacular accuracy while I couldn't keep the shots on a 2x2' piece of carboard at 100 yards with the M48. With handloads its easily shoots under 2" 5-shot groups.

I have a love-hate relationship with my M48, I love the way it shoots, but I hate its shoddy workmanship.

 

[Slamfire]

It can get more complicated. However first thing is to make sure all action screws are tight. Grab the front and rear sight and try to twist them. If they move easy, then it is likely your sights are loose and shifting with every shot.

If these are OK you are going to have more fun figuring it out.

First thing I do is check the bedding of the rifle in the stock and the bedding of the barrel in the channel. To check the bedding of the action in the stock I "glassbed" the action". If you want to know how to glassbed, google it and I am certain someone has a page on this. As for bedding of the barrel in the channel. The barrel should lightly touch the stock at 60C on the barrel the length of the final step down section of the barrel. The barrel should not be touching the stock on the sides of the barrel. Only on the bottom. The barrel should have some clearance on the inside of the barrel band. You should try to check the barrel clearances before bedding and align the barrel so you have to relieve the minimum amount of wood.

About 20 years ago, I did all this on a Nazi K98 that the Yugo's rebuilt. It had a beautiful brand new barrel and the bluing was upper 90's. After making sure that the rifle was mechanically tight, and getting the bedding correct, I still had a had an inaccurate K98. Bedding my rifle resulted in having round groups, but they were still large, like 6 or 8 inches at 100 yards.

I was totally baffled. :banghead: But one day, I decided to stick a dial caliper in the muzzle and measure the distance between grooves. The groove distance should have been .323 (please forgive if my memory is faulty)but instead it was .327". I had a brand new Big barrel!! Since I was shooting standard 8mm ammunition, I was hosed. The only way to tighten the groups was to get a tighter barrel. And I ain't planning on doing that.

I hope your rusted out barrel is not the source of inaccuracy, but your groups should not be as big as they are at 25 yards, even if you were firing a smooth bore musket.

You may be flinching, it never hurts to practice, always wear your ear and eye protection.

 

[DWARREN123]

Have someone else shoot it and see how they do. It could be you or may be the rifle.

 

[KINGMAX]

TRY new ammo

Try new ammo, shoot atleast 20 - 3 round groups at 25 and 50 feet. That will let you know how you are grouping as a shhoter. That will tell what you will need to adjust.

 

[lowes79]

The best way to tell if you have a flinch is to go to the range with a friend. have them load the gun and hand it to you. Tell them to not load it (just pretend to) once in a while. this way you'll be expecting the gun to go off every time you pull the trigger. If the gun dosen't go off but the sights jump up, you have a flinch.