Interesting read on gun lubricants.

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12 Volt Man

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Alright I normally wouldn't post a link over to Glock Talk. But I found these posts extremely interesting. I think it covers some of the debate that we have had here recently. Check it out.

Oil Shootout

Oil Shootout Part 2


Looks like Breakfree CLP is the best in his rust tests.
 
That just reinforces the other tests I've seen and read about regarding Breakfree. I was interested to see if Eezox could match it's rust defense abilities and it did.

However as some pointed out in the first link, this doesn't test the lubrication abilities of these products at all, just the rust prevention abilities. I wipe my guns down with breakfree but I use a drop of militec 1 on the slide rails. I think militec 1 makes for a good lube but it just sucks as a rust inhibitor compared to breakfree...I already knew that much.

brad cook
 
Eezox

My gunsmith turned me on to this product a few years ago. I have to order it online because it it impossible to find in Texas. I give out samples to all the gunnies I know and always get positive reviews.

I spent an extremely rainy (and cold) week this October with 2 other gentlemen in a tent on the Alaskan tundra hunting Caribou. We all 3 had blued guns. It was an informal test, but one guy uses CLP, and the other Rem oil. I had treated mine with Eezox before the trip. By the second day, you could almost watch the other guys' guns rust. Mine was perfect except for one scope ring screw I had not coated well. In the extremely rainy conditions we were in, we concluded that the dired-on film of Eezox held up better for extended exposure to rain.
 
While the tester certainly did a good test he should take into account that most traditional firearms finishes are meant to work withoil. In other words, work as a medium to hold the lubricant in their structure like bluing and parkerizing do.
 
I did a major write on the FN forum on lubes... would not even consider starting that up again. Mili-tec is good for lube as well as a rust inhibitor...IF you do it as advertised, with heat, for corrosion, bull frog, or corrosion x. did a 300+ mile ocean kayak trip...and ran a test with all of this stuff. use synthetic oil...nothing else... lots of snake oils out there..and lots of new break threws. Arc-Lite
 
Here is what I plan to do after reading this.

I have used Breakfree CLP for quite some time. I have tried a few other products, but I keep going back to CLP mostly because of availability. The best product I have tested was sent to me by a forum member to review some time back. I will have to find what that was called.

I also have used tetra grease or miltec greese on my slides. I have trusted CLP as a Lubricant on the internal moving parts. I think I will continue to go with the CLP for a protectant, a small amount of grease on the slides, and now I will try Mobil One synthetic oil for an internal lubricant.

We'll see how that goes.
 
I was stationed in Alaska from Aug 60 - Feb 64.

When I went hunting I coated the barrel and metal as well as I could with RIG. I was careful to oil the bolt and parts that grease would not be satisfactory. It seemed always to be wet when I hunted except in the winter, and the only time I got any rust is when I once carried a rifle in a case, and the grease wore off in a small spot. Other than that, I was in small boats in salt water, in the tall wet grass, wading streams and rivers, and getting rained on.

Some of the do it yourself hunts can get sorta miserable when it takes more than one day to climb above timberline, and you have to sleep in the wet grass, even though the sleeping bag is dry. The clothes never get dry until you get above timber line and they have time to dry. We did not have the Gore Tex boots and gear.

I suspect the new lubes and CLP are better now, but the grease on the parts that do not move worked very well.

Jerry
 
I used about all products I could purchase in the past 40 years and I'm sold
on FP10 as a lube, guns run better and stay cleaner. :)
 
Practically ANY grease will protect against rust better than ANY oil. That's because it provides a much more robust physical barrier.

Unfortunately coating an entire firearm with grease isn't always practical.

"dry-on" protectants also provide a very robust physical barrier against water (and therefore corrosion). However, they tend to be poor lubes.

CLP may not be the BEST lube on the market, but it's far from being a bad choice. When you throw in the excellent corrosion properties without having to maintain and deal with a grease coating, or worry about the possible poor lubrication qualities of a protectant coating, it looks like a pretty clear choice...
 
did a major write on the FN forum on lubes... would not even consider starting that up again. Mili-tec is good for lube as well as a rust inhibitor.

The man in the post claims that he did it as advertised, with heat. I believe the navy also performed their standardized salt spray test with Militec and also found it to be an inferior rust protector to some other products.

brad cook
 
12 Volt Man, thanks for the link, interesting read.
I use to use CLP but have moved to M-Pro 7....

Decisions decisions decsions.......


RTFM
 
Top of the day... again in just a short time, this thread has drifted from lubes to rust protectors... which is cool....both good subjects. We all will agree, that our needs and the Navy's needs are different, and the ways in which we clean, lube, and potect is also different....my needs consist of something that will work, correctly for maybe a few weeks at the most, not months rolling on the high seas. I can treat the surfaces with heat, as adverised, where the navy might have a problem, treatinga 12" cannon. I prefer the synthetics lubes, because they draw no or less dirt and dust... also to me an important point. I live in the west, where dust, dirt, sand, rain, snow, low temp and high temps. are in the years events, I sea kayak for weeks on a single trip, 4x4, into every location of interest, and clean and lube, after every use. My personal tests, were done, simple, I cleaned some regular nails, with steel wool, placed them into jar, of hot water, and added a tablespoon of salt, mixed it up, and let it sit. All but one nail, was coated with the substance, of choice, this time being, Mili-tec1, corrosion x, and a test nail, clean and with lube or protectant. At the end of a seven day run, the water looked BAD, red with rust, cloudy, BAD. I poured the water out, and inspected each nail, corrosion x was shinny, no rust ... Milit-tec1 shinny, no rust, test nail, rust and gooky, whiped each one, and the only one, that left anything on the cotton ball, was the test nail, good test? bad test? make the call. Because of my chosen pass times, I usually send my weapons off, to have them treated, by a true pro, before using them, on my outings. this treatment guarantees them against rust for life, pretty simple, gets tougher with age, improves reliability, does not reflect light, and this process is done, on the outside, as well as ALL working inside parts, shy a few springs and pins, a bottom seal coat of parkerizing, and a top coat of molybdenum disulfide, or polly coat, this polly coat gives a self lubricant, it embeds into the surface and reduces all frictions. I do not defend Mili-tec1, corrosion x, bull frog, or this process, for me, they work, I am not the navy, and the cleaning and lubing I do, on my weapons, is detailed, not saying the navy doesn't, just saying, I do not watch the clock, when maintaining my weapons. If you are interested in the guaranteed for life, against rust process, the link is www.shootiniron.com. The owner, Mac, is first class, old school, and a gentleman. Lots of stuff out there, new, old, stuff we each believe in, if you use it, and pay attention to detail, it will all server you well...but to make it work, you must DO IT, does not do much, in its bottle on the shelf. Arc-Lite
 
Yo fumegator...pax on the fn forum, here. Just got my shorty 870 back, with this finish yesterday. One bad, if you can call it bad, is the first handling, makes your hands black, till wiped the first time, also the way Mac packages his products, TONS of those styrofoam balls, man...went all over the house,when I tore into the package like a 2 year old at Christmas. Arc-Lite
 
I've been using Breakfree CLP for some 15 years or so. It's always done well by me.
 
Several people over at www.xdtalk.com have had their guns refinished by Mac's Shooting irons as well and had equally positive comments. Sounds like good stuff.

brad cook
 
Mac's

So far with Mac...I am real, real happy, old school, fine eye for detail, great price, gets back with you, for updates..and it is nice, to use hot water and dish soap, to clean your guns. Another nice point, is that when he does all the inside pieces, if you choose, he can replace the old springs and parts, with new ones, just did this with the shortie, went out looking like an old war horse, came home lookin and acting like a new washed happy filly... cool !!! Another great lube, is dri-slide. Arc-Lite
 
"Sounds like good stuff."

Tuff-Gun is Gunkote applied over parkerizing.

Not unlike Wilson's current Armor Tuff........
 
Yup ...gun coat is the base finish, done in his high tech ovens... and the way I understand it...a great coat to absorbe the molybdenum disulfide, and this stuff is SLICK SLICK, so you get protection and lube, embeded, into the surface. Another good point, is Mac, unlike alot of specialists, you call him, you get him, you write, he writes...if your impressed with him and his work your wise, he is not one, to tell you, how impresed he is in himself. Arc-Lite
 
I was sent some stuff from Break-free company -called COLLECTOR , supposed to be a long storage preservative, going to try it on an older piece 1st then leave it in plastic "only" in the basement for a few months. should be intersting...........check back around JUNE 05, I figure 6 months should be a good test.
 
again in just a short time, this thread has drifted from lubes to rust protectors
Not really. It started out that way. The title says lubricants but the test was only for rust protection.

But here's my take on lubes.

It's not terribly hard to tell if a lube is lubing. You can feel it if parts are grating together and you can see the wear marks. I've used lots of different oils and they all work pretty well. You can get into exotics like moly grease when you need special slickness or for high-wear areas. It's great stuff. But for general purpose light duty lube, any oil will probably do the trick. For evidence of this, you can just look around on the forums, there are more than a few shooters who use plain motor oil for gun lube. My guess is that you can find just about any easily available oil being used to lubricate firearms and with good effect.

But getting great corrosion protection from a decent lube is a TREMENDOUS bonus. And clearly, while most lubes are reasonably comparable in performance, they are not at all comparable in terms of corrosion resistance.
 
Has anyone used Corrosion X? I have been using it for a few years, and love it. They started in protecting million dollar airplanes. What I don't like about the films, is it doesn't get below the stock lines.....And it tends to collect dirt, etc.
 
For basic purposes, lube is lube is lube. Sure, there are greases and slick-film beasties and specialty mixes, but after a while slippy is slippy enough. What I need in a gun oil is rust prevention. Between being in a relatively humid location and my skin oils being kin to Alien blood when it comes to standard steel surfaces, i need rust prevention a lot more than I need a squidgen more slippery.

that said, it looks like my FP-10 is going to be repurposed as range lube and the CLP will come back to the front of the cleaning bench. If I happen to see any Eezox at a show, who knows... it might just make it's way home with me to meet the parents. :)
 
CLP generally does the lube/preservation for me.

Mobil1 has the advantage of being REALLY cheap WRT the other CLPs. That's why my dad slathers it all over his guns in long term storage.
 
Just a wierd thought. I know some folks use WD40 on guns. It gets bashed from time to time. Definately not much of a lube, but might serve as a protectant.
-I wonder how it would do in a test like that?
 
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