Is it difficult to build an AR Upper?

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Any opinions on the "reaction rod" instead of a receiver block?

The Magpul block mentioned above works similarly, a steel insert engages the barrel extension so the forces are steel to steel.

And it comes with a block for working on lowers.

All for under $100.

BSW
 
The Magpul block mentioned above works similarly, a steel insert engages the barrel extension so the forces are steel to steel.

And it comes with a block for working on lowers.

All for under $100.

BSW
The Magpul BEV looks excellent - cheaper, too. Thanks for the heads up.
 
Any opinions on the "reaction rod" instead of a receiver block?

I have one and it's a POS compared to the Magpul block. Unless you use a piece of leather to grip it in the vise it isn't secure.
 
Be sure to install your combination wrench on the torque wrench at a right angle otherwise you'll apply more torque to the barrel nut than indicated on the torque wrench

The torque value given in the TM is with the correct tool inline with the torque wrench
 
The torque value given in the TM is with the correct tool inline with the torque wrench.

The combination wrench, installed in-line, adds 2" to the effective length of the torque wrench, which increases the amount of torque applied and can lead to application of torque in excess of 80 ft/lbs. The combination wrench is, in essence, a crowfoot extension, and proper installation of of a crowfoot on a torque wrench is at a right angle, which does not increase effective length.
 
I Have a Magpul block and clam devices, both work fine as torque on the parts is not normally a problem. The Magpul block as indicated in other posts locks into the barrel extension, upper receiver with a pin and using the carrier locks the rear of the block in straight alignment. I have read where blocks of wood and vise grips are used, kind of reminds me of a Three Stooges comedy and a wonderful way to ruin expensive parts. With correct tools a totally disassembled AR can be built in about an hour or two cups of coffee whichever comes first. Once properly done the rifle is good for a heck of a lot of shooting fun so I encourage others to give it a try. My problem is how to shed the AR fever and stop building them! The racks and safes are full but new barrels, rails. stocks etc are constantly being waved in front of me via internet specials.
 
The combination wrench, installed in-line, adds 2" to the effective length of the torque wrench, which increases the amount of torque applied and can lead to application of torque in excess of 80 ft/lbs. The combination wrench is, in essence, a crowfoot extension, and proper installation of of a crowfoot on a torque wrench is at a right angle, which does not increase effective length.

I repeat- The torque value given in the TM is with the proper tool inline with the torque wrench. It so states in the TM. It does mean the actual torque will exceed 80 ft/lbs if the nut is torqued to maximum, but that has already been taken into account. Conversely, turning the tool 90 degrees means the nut will be under torqued if the gas tube notch lines up when the wrench indicates minimum torque has been reached.

The proper torque is actually indicated torque + arm of tool
 
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