Is there an rcbs ammomaster users support group?

If you want a progressive press I would recommend a Dillon, just my 2 pennies.
I have nothing against RCBS I have one on the other side of my bench. Works awesome for single stage loading.

Agree......I have an RCBS Pro2000 and it's all right, but I wished I'd have gotten a Dillon
 
Agree......I have an RCBS Pro2000 and it's all right, but I wished I'd have gotten a Dillon
I’m not sure who said buy once cry once…
But I occasionally still tear up when I have to buy more “stuff” for the Dillon. So the sobbing isn’t over :( I have all the bugs worked out of it and it runs really well now.
 
But…
There is something the RCBS Ammomaster can do that none of those other brand progressive press are able to do…..

Switch out the top plate and reload 50 BMG single stage!!!
 
Agree......I have an RCBS Pro2000 and it's all right, but I wished I'd have gotten a Dillon

I've been happy with mine....totally so, once I created and added case and bullet feeders. Besides the APS system (with a mod to take it off line when I want) I've created and added case and bullet feeders to it, and with those I can load trouble free. I also like the primer depth screw under the plate, that makes every primer seat the exact same depth. My brother bought that Dillon...a 650...which I maintain for him. I can guarantee it's a mortal machine too, and not a mount and forget asset so many seem to think it is. There's advantages and disadvantages to both. I have no desire to trade him....he has no desire to trade me....so we're both happy.;)

I’m not sure who said buy once cry once…
But I occasionally still tear up when I have to buy more “stuff” for the Dillon. So the sobbing isn’t over :( I have all the bugs worked out of it and it runs really well now.

That's one of the disadvantages of the Dillon.....they are both pricey at first, but Dillon continues to be pricey the more calibers you add, if you continue to buy caliber kits. All I have to buy for the 2000 is a shell plate and a powder die for each caliber, and it's a quick change operation....once the dies are adjusted the first time of maybe 2 minutes.

The disadvantage of the 2000 is no case feeder......and I'd rather have a tool head minus the permanent powder measure station, which I mostly use now for just powder checks.

But…
There is something the RCBS Ammomaster can do that none of those other brand progressive press are able to do…..
Switch out the top plate and reload 50 BMG single stage!!!

That's true.....but you gotta be a masochist to want to shoot that caliber.;) I don't even like 7mm Mag.

I have only one claim to have improved the Pro Chucker offerings.......it was me who bugged and bugged RCBS's head R&D engineer, until I convinced him they were killing the product with the expensive tool head-powder measure caliber change kit. All they needed was to sell the powder die separate from the powder measure like Hornady already did. (picture below.... Hornady's is the metallic grey one on the left, mounted in the Pro 2000 tool head, which also worked with the RCBS Uniflow.) Took them a year to add it to their products and save us lots of cash. Unfortunately for them, probably a year was too slow.
IMG-1916.jpg

Can't prove it and the companys won't admit it, but I think Hornady bought rights to the Uniflow design and created the perfect case activated powder die for it, then RCBS who really had a lousy case activated system under their Uniflows on their early progressives, bought rights to the Hornady case activated system. Maybe even the second deal erased the first one...so they both had both duty-free. (that's my guess as they are nearly identical)
 
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I'll sign up for the support group. I have an Ammomaster and will agree even after you've set it up, you have to watch all the functions carefully to keep it from running amok. I've been tempted to order the parts to make it a single stage press more than once.
 
I'll sign up for the support group. I have an Ammomaster and will agree even after you've set it up, you have to watch all the functions carefully to keep it from running amok. I've been tempted to order the parts to make it a single stage press more than once.
And just so you know, that single stage change over kit will cost you north of $300, last time I checked anyways, a few years ago.
:what:.
Not sure if that single stage kit is even available now.
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@Tilos I spent an hour or so cleaning and adjusting and tweaking on the ammomaster this afternoon. I managed to get 190 9mm loaded in about an hour and a half (maybe less i wasn't really watching the clock)
Chamfering the hole in the primer slide made it run smoother. Also adjusting the spring on the priming pin seemed to help as well. I'm going to see about the powder drop tube next. What parts did you use to mount the Lee powder measure?
 
@Tilos I spent an hour or so cleaning and adjusting and tweaking on the ammomaster this afternoon. I managed to get 190 9mm loaded in about an hour and a half (maybe less i wasn't really watching the clock)
Chamfering the hole in the primer slide made it run smoother. Also adjusting the spring on the priming pin seemed to help as well. I'm going to see about the powder drop tube next. What parts did you use to mount the Lee powder measure?

Thanks for reading my other posts here.
Good question
Good to know you are working thru the bugs and have not given up on the press.

I use a Lee Pro Auto Disc because of its simplicity and ease of throwing a verifying test charge.
LEE PRO AUTO-DISK POWDER MEASURE - Titan Reloading
I tried the Lee Auto Drum measure and found it to more finicky than the AD, but Lee has "improved" that AD since then.

I have 2 Lee powder measure risers between the Lee thru the expander die and the Auto Disc, so the indexing rod clears the powder measure when the ram/shell plate are at the top of stroke.
LEE POWDER MEASURE RISER - Titan Reloading
I don't use the bead chain or wrap-around spring on the Auto Disc measure, but have added a spring to the measure arm connected to an adjoining die.
Some have simply hung a length of wire and a weight on the measure arm (extended if needed) and that has worked as well.
Know that I use ball powder so the measure works buttery smooth.
EverythingS.JPG

So, 2 risers and that Auto Disc measure adds up to quite an expense but well worth the investment, in my view.

For even more productivity, I have added a Hornady bullet feeder die so my left hand only inserts the case, and my right hand never leaves the press handle.
I use 3' long tubes to fill the bullet feeding dies, and they hold more than 50 9mm bullets each.
So after loading 100 rounds via 2 pre-loaded tubes, I have to replenish the primers also.

Lee now sells a bullet feeding die that has proven to be quite reliable since introduced but is not a must have for you.
And you will find 3D printed bullet feeding dies on Esty for about $20.
Here's is one, there are others:
Bullet Feeder Cal .44 .45 9mm .357 .223 - Etsy
Ships from Austria:what:
With Tubes:
356 /9mm Bullet Feeder Die Kit Comes With 4 Tube Feedr System - Etsy
Here's a search:
Bullet feeder dies - Etsy
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I still have my auto disk from the Lee 2000. I've even had it mounted once before on the ammomaster and the rock chucker, now that I think about it.
2 risers for 20 bucks plus shipping doesn't seem too steep. It will give me options at least.
 
I still have my auto disk from the Lee 2000. I've even had it mounted once before on the ammomaster and the rock chucker, now that I think about it.
2 risers for 20 bucks plus shipping doesn't seem too steep. It will give me options at least.
Good deal
You can "upgrade" to the auto disk that you are already familiar with.
Get the adjustable disc if your powder weight falls between 2-disc sizes, I've done that.

Here's a pics of the weight used for PM return.
The arm extension is to clear the die plate, etc.
It's in your vision and close to your hand when you load a case, so if it stuck up or partially up you would see it.
Wt2.JPG
Anything heavy can be slid over the wire to add weight and the added length of the lever makes it work with less weight.
good luck,
.
 
Sign me up for an Ammomaster sub-group. I chamfered my large primer slide today on my Ammomaster Auto. I'm going to try to get the bullet feeder working tomorrow dropping 280 grain LBT WFN-GC bullets into 45 Colt cases.
 
Update: I've been tinkering with this thing and it's running better. I took a good hard look at the powder measure and found places where powder could hang up and then spill out onto the base plate after the cartridge had moved. Some simple adjustments have practically eliminated that with the red dot powder I'm using. I still have to watch every step in the process like a hawk, but I'd have to do that with any loader so that's OK. I'm going to add a single, solar powered, L.E.D above the seating station so I can better see powder in the pistol cases. I ran 90 45acp cases through it today and it ran quite smooth. Especially after I gave the ram shaft a good squirt of GT85.
 
Thanks that's pretty much what I've been thinking about. Amazing what those 3d printers can do.
Which do you use and how do you like it?
I use the desktop version and I have 3 of them. I may have too many shell plates. I get a shell plate every time I'm thinking about a new caliber. I'm still waiting to find the perfect .220 Swift rifle ... but I've got shell plate #11 just in case. :) I'm very happy with them. They are tougher than you'd think for 3D printing. He uses a PLA+ filament.
 
Does anyone have a preferred die lock ring that you like on the Ammomaster / Piggyback / Pro2000 platform with it's tight die spacing / radius? I'm thinking about giving those Lee spline drive locks with their little 1/2 wrench a try.
 
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Does anyone have a preferred die lock ring that you like on the Ammomaster / Piggyback / Pro2000 platform with it's tight die spacing / radius? I'm thinking about giving those Lee spline drive locks with their little 1/2 wrench a try.

I have bought Dillon die lock nuts because they are 1" hex (so very thin) and Dillon's wrench for them.
I was not impressed with them though.
Here's some on Amazon, pricey though:
Amazon.com : Dillon Precision 10669 1" Die Lock Rings 5 Pack 7/8" x14 5 Ring Per Package Zinc : Sports & Outdoors
Lee rings might be better, but I have not used them as yet.
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I bought an Ammomaster back in the 90s. It was terrible. The pushrod activated uniflow powder measure system was a nighmare. I replaced it with a Pro Autodisk on advice and it worked so much better. I thought the priming system was a bit rinky dink as well. There were a few other problems and I eventually tossed it.
 
I have the Lee ones that came with the dies. They work, but it is a tight fit. I have some RCBS ones I think, but I've not used them. Bo reason for that. Just haven't.
 
@Rimfire McNutjob
I just ordered the last two wall mounted holders that he had in stock. Looks like he's out of town for another week, but I'm in no hurry. Luckily I went and counted plates and I have a total of 8 so one wasnt enough.

Thanks for the tip. Those are just what I wanted. Pretty cheap too!
 
How do you guys identify the shell plates? I know there is a number on them and you can use the references chart, or memorize that number 8 is 9mm (just tossing number together). I think I'm going to take an electric stencil pen to mine and engrave the caliber I use it for on it. Better suggestions?
 
How do you guys identify the shell plates? I know there is a number on them and you can use the references chart, or memorize that number 8 is 9mm (just tossing number together). I think I'm going to take an electric stencil pen to mine and engrave the caliber I use it for on it. Better suggestions?
A silver magic marker is my go to for marking everything black.
BinderClip.JPG
:)
 
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