Is this case bulge, or something else?

[Stefan A]

No problem.
Do you have a micrometer and a case gauge?
Crimping is something to slowly apply in increments until the desired result is achieved. Desired result in a revolver round is just enough to drop in the cylinders of the gun...and that's it.
Again, roll crimping is for WW-296, H-110 and a few other slow, maximum velocity powders.
What powder are you using?

no, I don’t have either of those items. I am using 4227

 

[GeoDudeFlorida]

4227

Are these for a lever action carbine? If so, that changes the metric a little bit.

 

[Stefan A]

Stefan A, a good set of dial calipers is a must. Then to get you started in case trimming, the inexpensive Lee case timmer[cartridge specific]. Perhaps someone here can post a picture as I'm not good at that. But, those items will put you in the right direction. Usually, when you trim handgun cases once, thats it.

I have digital calipers

 

[.45Coltguy]

That's a start.

 

[Stefan A]

Are these for a lever action carbine? If so, that changes the metric a little bit.

I am using this in both a Blackhawk revolver and a lever action rifle.

 

[Stefan A]

I have these things which came with my turret kit. Obviously never used. Will any of this help me with cases?

 

[LiveLife]

I have digital calipers

That's a start.

And next is getting pin gages for few dollars to verify accuracy of calipers (Like check weights for scales) - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...-unlimited-budget.912629/page-2#post-12465906

https://www.travers.com/product/vermont-gage-111235500-class-zz-pin-gage-58-203-550

I have these things which came with my turret kit. Obviously never used. Will any of this help me with cases?

Yes, you can use the cutter to trim the case mouth to same length and chamfer tool to remove sharp cut edges inside/outside (Especially inside chamfer to seat bullet and better apply crimp)

 

[GeoDudeFlorida]

I am using this in both a Blackhawk revolver and a lever action rifle.

Okay, then you do need a roll crimp, or a rightly done taper, but rolling the rim is better. You’ve got two different reasons for this: the revolver will tend to want to pull the bullet - inertia - and the tube magazine-lifter-feed ramp will tend to want to push the bullet back - tension + impact. With the Lee 4-die set, you have two options for method: either you really don’t want the seating die to crimp, just set the bullet to the correct depth, then use the FCD to apply just the roll crimp; or, don’t use the FCD at all and use the seater to apply the roll as it seats.
A word here also about IMR 4227: it’s a fast rifle powder that found favor in magnum handgun cartridges. As a dual use powder you really need to cater to its best use, and that’s in a longer barrel with a good crimp. It’s not a slow pistol powder, it’s a very fast rifle powder. I use the heck out of the stuff in 6” and longer handguns with heavy bullets - 170+ grains - and it’s one of my favorites. If that bullet you’re using is 158gr or lighter, you won’t get the best that powder has to offer in a handgun but it will still be good. It just won’t be clean or anything. Incomplete burn is common with 4227 in 4” and shorter revolvers.

 

[Stefan A]

Okay, then you do need a roll crimp, or a rightly done taper, but rolling the rim is better. You’ve got two different reasons for this: the revolver will tend to want to pull the bullet - inertia - and the tube magazine-lifter-feed ramp will tend to want to push the bullet back - tension + impact. With the Lee 4-die set, you have two options for method: either you really don’t want the seating die to crimp, just set the bullet to the correct depth, then use the FCD to apply just the roll crimp; or, don’t use the FCD at all and use the seater to apply the roll as it seats.
A word here also about IMR 4227: it’s a fast rifle powder that found favor in magnum handgun cartridges. As a dual use powder you really need to cater to its best use, and that’s in a longer barrel with a good crimp. It’s not a slow pistol powder, it’s a very fast rifle powder. I use the heck out of the stuff in 6” and longer handguns with heavy bullets - 170+ grains - and it’s one of my favorites. If that bullet you’re using is 158gr or lighter, you won’t get the best that powder has to offer in a handgun but it will still be good. It just won’t be clean or anything. Incomplete burn is common with 4227 in 4” and shorter revolvers.

Thanks. My revolver is 6” and the bullet is 158g.

 

[GeoDudeFlorida]

I have these things which came with my turret kit. Obviously never used. Will any of this help me with cases?

View attachment 1121640

There’s a Part B for that set.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1012838679?pid=391270

 

[.45Coltguy]

If that is for .38 spl, you're in. That's the one I mentioned earlier.

There’s a Part B for that set.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1012838679?pid=391270

Doh! Yes, that will help. Thanks GDF!

 

[GeoDudeFlorida]

Thanks. My revolver is 6” and the bullet is 158g.

You can expect some residue that looks like unburnt kernels in the case when you extract. Not a big deal, just don’t be surprised. Hold the RBH’s muzzle up when you punch out the empties and dump them out before putting them in your range bag. Ought to work really well in the rifle.

 

[hdbiker]

I find Reminton pistol brass to be somewhat thinner, a heavy crimp will cause that

 

[Stefan A]

You can expect some residue that looks like unburnt kernels in the case when you extract. Not a big deal, just don’t be surprised. Hold the RBH’s muzzle up when you punch out the empties and dump them out before putting them in your range bag. Ought to work really well in the rifle.

A very insignificant amount.

 

[mdi]

Just my experience. I do not trim any handgun brass. From what I can tell (with many thousand rounds under my belt starting waaaay pre web) the small variation in case length, 99% of the time less than .004"-.008", does not make a measurable difference in a roll crimp. Of course in theory the small variation will be noticeable. Not in performance/accuracy or consistency. Maybe if one measured bullet "pull" against a crimp, but in real life, on the target or across the chrony, very little if any measurable difference. Now this is for my handloads and if one wants to trim every case to +/- .0005" cool, it's your ammo, your time, and your methods...

I just want to show another side to this subject as many newer reloaders look in forums for information and should hear all sides...

 

[.45Coltguy]

Just my experience. I do not trim any handgun brass. From what I can tell (with many thousand rounds under my belt starting waaaay pre web) the small variation in case length, 99% of the time less than .004"-.008", does not make a measurable difference in a roll crimp. Of course in theory the small variation will be noticeable. Not in performance/accuracy or consistency. Maybe if one measured bullet "pull" against a crimp, but in real life, on the target or across the chrony, very little if any measurable difference. Now this is for my handloads and if one wants to trim every case to +/- .0005" cool, it's your ammo, your time, and your methods...

I just want to show another side to this subject as many newer reloaders look in forums for information and should hear all sides...

Pretty much how I do handgun brass. Been working for a long time.

 

[Stefan A]

Just my experience. I do not trim any handgun brass. From what I can tell (with many thousand rounds under my belt starting waaaay pre web) the small variation in case length, 99% of the time less than .004"-.008", does not make a measurable difference in a roll crimp. Of course in theory the small variation will be noticeable. Not in performance/accuracy or consistency. Maybe if one measured bullet "pull" against a crimp, but in real life, on the target or across the chrony, very little if any measurable difference. Now this is for my handloads and if one wants to trim every case to +/- .0005" cool, it's your ammo, your time, and your methods...

I just want to show another side to this subject as many newer reloaders look in forums for information and should hear all sides...

Thanks. I am deciding now if I should start trimming and I’m looking for these comments. I see a few on this thread are adamant about it. I can see that with my mixed brass I am getting the crimp in slightly different parts of the cannelure. But the real question is if it really matters.

Also, how important is the chamfering? I did it to a couple pieces of brass and it does make it look nice. But how important is it?

 

[buck460XVR]

Yes, Lee 4 die set. I am using the crimp die that came with the set.

You can crimp with two dies in that set. If you are using the 4th die, or the FCD, I can't see how that would leave a buckle as it post sizes the case as it crimps.

 

[.38 Special]

I don't trim revolver brass either. I do use brass from one lot, each fired the same number of times. That way, any changes in dimension should be relatively similar across all the cases.

I never chamfer handgun brass.

 

[Blue68f100]

If your going to use the LFCD there is no reason to trim. If using the std seating die to crimp, yes the trimming makes it easier to get a consistent crimp.

 

[blackd24]

First, I would read a manual and watch YouTube videos. Then decide what works best for you. I trimmed 1000 38 special mixed brass and I will never do it again.

 

[Soonerpesek]

I trimmed 1000 38 special mixed brass and I will never do it again.

Meaning that they won't need to be trimmed again................or trimming them sucked that bad.......?

 

[blackd24]

Meaning that they won't need to be trimmed again................or trimming them sucked that bad.......?

Time consuming to trim by hand, chamfer and debur. I bought used brass at the height of the pandemic so it was all over the place in OAL. I won’t ever trim that brass again, or any revolver brass because it’s tedious and sucks.

On a similar note, I bought 1000 pieces of brand new 9mm from RMR. When I remembered I had to chamfer and debur those… never again. I have a good stock of starline revolver brass that I prepped (no trimming) so I think I’ll be good for a very long time.

Long story short, I’m never going to be a good enough shooter to notice a difference if I trim or don’t trim brass. I don’t have as much time as I used to so trimming handgun brass is out.

 

[savagelover]

I’d be interested to know if you trimmed all the cases and/or measured them before seating and crimping? Uneven case lengths when you want to roll crimp will not make for a good reloading session. It’s one of the few times I do trim pistol cases. Keep in mind even if you trim, you need to make sure you set the roll crimp on the longest case.

If you trim them properly there should be no longer case.?

 

[Stefan A]

I won’t ever trim that brass again, or any revolver brass because it’s tedious and sucks.

Im leaning toward not bothering. I feel like I am doing well with my untrimmed brass. I decided to break open my little package of case preparation tools that I posted above. I used the primer pocket cleaner and then chamfered 30 pieces of brass. That alone was enough to make me question if I want to keep doing it - much less add the trimming step. I don't doubt that it is a good thing to do - I just don't see the benefit considering all I'm doing is shooting steel for fun.