AJC1
Member
As I always told the guys, anything worth doing is worth doing the best you can.
Is this case bulge, or something else?
- Thread starter Stefan A
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ballman6711
Member
Chamfering is worth doing, it allows your bullet to seat easier/smoother into the case. I used the handheld tool (similar to yours) that came with my Hornady kit, and that got old real quick. I bought a powered unit to chamfer and deburr my brass, and haven't looked back. I still have the little hand held tool in case the power goes out.
FWIW, I don't trim my pistol or revolver brass, although I have thought about it for some calibers.
chris
4227 is both a tad slow and a tad bulky for .357 Mag, although it can work. You're seeing a lot of "un-burnt" kernels because it's a tad too slow and is not burning efficiently. This is worse the lower you go.
2400 however, is the bees knees in .357 Mag with 158 Gr bullets. There are several powders that will work better than 4227.
2400 however, is the bees knees in .357 Mag with 158 Gr bullets. There are several powders that will work better than 4227.
AJC1
Member
As I always told the guys, anything worth doing is worth doing the best you can.
I tend to support this assertion and add that #9 is very nice as well. 4227 is a lot like 4198 and I use it in many of the same rolls as an alternative in testing.
Scooter22
Member
I see I trim or don't trim posts. I think when you start out with new or mixed batch of cases you trim them all so they are all the same. For safety and one less variable in the process. Then after that....... From what the OP said about never trimming I think it was a long case. That crimp looks like a roll crimp which would crush a over length case. Not the Lee FCD. jmo
lordpaxman
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Not necessarily. If all cases are longer than your trim length, and your trim job is good, then yes all cases are at the trim length. If some cases are shorter than your trim length, there may be a mix of trim length and less than trim length. You’d need to make sure you set up the roll crimp on the longest case. That lessens the chance of a buckled case. I process mixed range brass so this happens more often than not and I’m not going to find the shortest case and trim to that.
OP
OP
Stefan A
Member
Other than looking at my manual, I don’t know how to choose a powder. 4227 was there, so I used it. Like I said earlier, the amount of unburnt powder was insignificant. And there was no problem out of my rifle. I do not have any 2400. I guess I could use N340. But I dont see the problem with 4227. Shot fine for me. Was hitting my 100 yard target handheld with the revolver. I’d say thats good.
CoalCrackerAl
Member
Stefan don't feel bad for your casing. I ruined a new starline 32H&R case tonight. Because i didn't bell the mouth before seating.
AJC1
Member
I love the sweet smell of it. As long as your near max the unburnt amount isn't bad. Calculation have the amount burnt in the low 90s for a percent. It gets ugly fast as you go lower in the load range. Strangly it doesn't seem to terribly effect accuracy.
OP
OP
Stefan A
Member
Nah - I don’t feel bad about the casing. It’s the wasted primer that gets me
CoalCrackerAl
Member
The primer is probably ok. When i pull a round. I decap real easy like.
GeoDudeFlorida
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Meh. With the 170gr Speer DCFP on up to the Cast Performance 200gr WFN-GC I get better (meaning more consistent at the close ranges I hunt) overall performance with a compressed load of IMR 4227 than Accurate No.9. About as good as 2400. But that’s from a 6-1/2” Blackhawk. It’s one of those “all depends” things.
If you're happy, I'm happy.
I agree. I trim 357 brass because I crimp it pretty hard for h110. I used to randomly get what the OP did until I started trimming everything. Now mixed headstamp doesn't even cause issues.
OP
OP
Stefan A
Member
So, was this a problem of overcrimping AND a case that was too long? I’m sure I’ve overcrimped before, but haven’t had this issue.
ballman6711
Member
That is the most likely answer. Back your die body out 1/8-1/4 turn to reduce the amount of crimp and you should be good to go.
chris
BRatigan
Member
Case Trimmers - Forster Products I have been using this trimmer for 35 years. It can turn necks, trim brass, ream necks etc. It is worth it and it works with nearly every caliber once you have the collets, pilots etc for your caliber. There are others that are just as good or better but as a long term tool for getting your brass right, these systems are invaluable. Also, a question, are you using same manufacturers brass? Sorry if someone also asked that question.
Highland Lofts
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I've loaded thousands upon thousands of pistol brass with lots of different brands of brass.
All my brass is range pick up or bought as range pick up brass. I resize, flare, set the primer, charge the case, seat the bullet and crimp. I never trimed any caliber of straight walled pistol case.
As cheap as range brass is I'll throw the bulged cases into the scrap bucket.
I do knock the bad ammo apart and reuse the primer.
I crimp all pistol brass in a separate step.
If the bullet has a cannlure it gets a roll crimp.
If it doesn't has a cannlure it gets a taper crimp.
I have lots of die sets. Once set up for a certain caliber it stays set up.
I have two dies sets set up for 38, one set with a roll crimp die snd the other set has the taper fie set.
Same with 357 magnum, two die sets set up with both crimp dies.
Same with 44 special and 44 magnum.
I never trimmed a pistol case and never will.
On my most used rifle calibers I have trimmers all set up for each caliber so I don't have to readjust the length on the trimmer.
It cost a little but the convenience is well eoth the cost of the extra trimmers.
And when it's all over I will recoup the cost of the extra equipment when I dispose of it.
When reloading I want it as easy as it can get without playing around readjusting stuff.
All my brass is range pick up or bought as range pick up brass. I resize, flare, set the primer, charge the case, seat the bullet and crimp. I never trimed any caliber of straight walled pistol case.
As cheap as range brass is I'll throw the bulged cases into the scrap bucket.
I do knock the bad ammo apart and reuse the primer.
I crimp all pistol brass in a separate step.
If the bullet has a cannlure it gets a roll crimp.
If it doesn't has a cannlure it gets a taper crimp.
I have lots of die sets. Once set up for a certain caliber it stays set up.
I have two dies sets set up for 38, one set with a roll crimp die snd the other set has the taper fie set.
Same with 357 magnum, two die sets set up with both crimp dies.
Same with 44 special and 44 magnum.
I never trimmed a pistol case and never will.
On my most used rifle calibers I have trimmers all set up for each caliber so I don't have to readjust the length on the trimmer.
It cost a little but the convenience is well eoth the cost of the extra trimmers.
And when it's all over I will recoup the cost of the extra equipment when I dispose of it.
When reloading I want it as easy as it can get without playing around readjusting stuff.
buck460XVR
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I doubt the case was too long by where the crimp ended up in the cannelure. Otherwise your short cases would have missed the cannelure altogether. I suspect something else since you only got one buckled case. Maybe you bulged it when you seated the bullet.
buck460XVR
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I never have either.......revolver cases tho are a different story. Even then, it is mainly for heavy loads for hunting, as consistent crimps are important for the consistent ignition of hard to ignite magnum powders, which is important for best accuracy. It also ensures a consistent heavy crimp to eliminate heavy bullets jumping crimp under heavy recoil. Only way to achieve this is by trimming or sorting cases to a consistent length. JMHO.
As for the OP's use of IMR4227, while it may not be the best powder for .357 usage to achieve maximum velocity, it will, if loaded to near or slightly compressed, deliver excellent accuracy, especially in his carbine. The way powder supplies have been of late, using appropriate powders has been difficult. Appropriate can different than the "best", and IMR4227 is definitely appropriate.
I would think the Lyman M dies (and RCBS says their newer dies have this feature, as well) would help with setback for lever ammunition. For revolvers, they do tend to walk out if you don't have sufficient roll crimp. At least, my magnum loads do. I'm okay with a little bit of movement, as long as the case mouth still lines up with the cannelure. I can dial in the roll crimp, but then, with mixed headstamp brass, I still get a few that move a bit. I'm okay with that.
AJC1
Member
If your having movement with jacketed, you may be better off with noe expanders than Lyman because you can adjust your expansion therefore neck tension.
If there are burrs ore other small defects in the case mouth I may chamfer. Normally I do not. I have Lee powder through flaring dies, a Lee Universal flaring die, and 3 Lyman M dies. I flare every case I reload, some very lightly and some a heavier, as much as is needed for a particular case/bullet.. "Too much" flare is when the case scrapes the ID of the seating die and is removed in the final step; deflaring (aka taper crimp die) or crimping...
Reloading tends to be very "personalized". They are your handloads, your time, your preferences, not mine. You may want to polish your brass to a high mirror finish, pristine primer pockets (resize/cleaned each reload). You may want to trim every case to a .001" variation. You may weight your cases after sorting by headstamps and mike your bullets. It's all good if that's what you want. Handloads are much better if you are happy with them (proven "fact", Happy Handloads shoot much better). Forum members may make suggestions, but in the end it's up to you. Ain't no Reloading Police gonna raid your reloading room and confiscate your ammo 'cause it don't fit what they think the methods used are right, what they should be...
Go slow. Double check everything. Most important, have fun!
Reloading tends to be very "personalized". They are your handloads, your time, your preferences, not mine. You may want to polish your brass to a high mirror finish, pristine primer pockets (resize/cleaned each reload). You may want to trim every case to a .001" variation. You may weight your cases after sorting by headstamps and mike your bullets. It's all good if that's what you want. Handloads are much better if you are happy with them (proven "fact", Happy Handloads shoot much better). Forum members may make suggestions, but in the end it's up to you. Ain't no Reloading Police gonna raid your reloading room and confiscate your ammo 'cause it don't fit what they think the methods used are right, what they should be...
Go slow. Double check everything. Most important, have fun!
243winxb
Member
When the crimp die is set on the case with the shortest trim length, the longest one will be over crimped, and possibly bulge.
So, find the longest trim length case to set the crimp on. Its that simple.
Or follow manual instructions & trim the brass. SAAMI gives trim length.
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