Johnsons paste wax

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vongh

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I found Recluse's recipe for tumble lube. But where the heck does one find JPW?
 
I checked target , wal mart, home depot and I seen some online but the price seemed a bit high. What are your thoughts using turtle wax or some other wax?
 
JPW at the hardware store. I would rather spend some money on Alox or Rooster Jacket. JPW isn't cheap any more. I learned how to wax floors with it. Seems like dad bought it in a gallon sized can.
 
What is the purpose for tumbling lube?

I recently tried using a glob or two of cutting cream added to my walnut media, it's something my Son uses to buff out fresh paint jobs on cars. My brass comes out looking almost brand new, and it doesn't seem to tarnish from me handling it. I also don't end up with hardly any dust residue.

GS
 
If you want to do it the easy way, just go here and order direct,
Delux Liquid X-Lox~45-45-10

Then you don't have to sit there stirring and stirring while having to smell the fumes flash off while mixing it up yourself. If that had been available when I made up my batch I would have ordered it for sure. I plan on it once I get down close to the bottom of the bucket I am still using up.
 
White label (LLStuff) is a good company to buy from and their 45/45/10 is a great bargain for those who don't have the stuff or don't want to mix it.

I've bought their Alox and it is just like the Lee Alox, but much cheaper. 45/45/10 is easy to make and works much better than straight "mule snot" (Alox). It dries like a wax coating and pistol powder does not stick to it, it just brushes off.
 
I just bought this Delux Liquid X-Lox~45-45-10 a week or so ago. Fast delivery.
I have been accumulating equipment and supplies to start casting for a year or so. Saw the JPW in the cleaning supplies section of the grocery section of WalMart and picked up a couple of cans at like $4. each.
I finally decided I did not want to do the mixing and stirring to make the 45-45-10 so I bought the pre made.
 
For the amount of bullets a can of JPW will lube, it's still pretty cheap...
 
Another technique I found to be very useful in "tumble lubing" is the gallon sized Ziplock bags. Put the bullets in the bag, drizzle the 45/45/10 onto the bullets (it helps to first put the container in a bath of hot water in the sink) and gently massage the bullets until they are uniformly coated. I can easily lube 5-800 at once without a lot of banging of the lead and beating up of the bullets.

After sizing the bullets in the Lee push through sizer, you can "retumble" the bullets by simply adding a small amount of oderless mineral spirits in the bag. No additional lube needed and no over-lubing which just adds to smoke when shooting.
 
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http://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Fine-Wood-Paste-00203/dp/B0000DIWIM
Wax has some unusual properties.
When I experimented with torque on scope mount screws, I ran into the wax question.
If there are enough threads engauged, the threads do not strip, the screw breaks.
Different screws made of different metal have different yield tensions.

But wait. There's more.
Knowing a screw max tension does not tell a screw's max torque. Some torque is lost to friction.
So it looks something like this:
Max torque for that screw :
34 inch pounds dry
28 inch pounds with oil or grease
16 inch pounds with Johnson's paste wax

Another odd thing is that it does not break down in sunlight.
I put a new board on a deck as a rail and painted it, and thinly rubbed a layer of Johnson's wax on a small section.
Two years later the water was still beading up on the wax section.

There is not just wax in that can. There is some solvent in there too, with a high vapor pressure. The wife will smell that stuff and protest. Or wait a couple days before you bring the project in the house.
 
Thanks for advice 41 mag. I just ordered some. I cant wait till it comes in.
 
Even better than using the ziplock bags for tumbling, I have been using the Glad-style storage containers. Not only is there less mess than the ziplock, to dry the lube all I do is remove the lid and set the container aside. And I re-use the container multiple times. I did learn not to waste my time putting the container in the dishwasher, the soap didn't cut the dried lube.
 
I was using the Glad storage containers, but you can't "massage" the bullets around like you can with a Ziplock bag. The best coverage I got with the container method was to pour them from one container to the other back and forth. That method causes the bullets to hit each other and make a racket.

Clark,
Yes the solvent in JPW is pretty nasty. That's why the idea was to cook them out before adding in the Alox and the oderless mineral spirits. I really like the oderless variety because it's been de-sulferized and when drying a batch of TL'ed bullets, the only smell is a light hint of Alox and not a room full of paint thinner vapor hitting you.
 
I've been lubing bullets with 2 parts Minwax (because I had it already) to 1 part Alox with no cooking other than to melt it, and no additional solvent. It works great for .38 Specials. I don't know how well it'll work for Magnums because I didn't use real JPW -- it might make a difference, it might not.

One thing you need to watch out for is "green" labelled mineral spirits with low VOC. It has water added (a lot of water) and it will ruin your lube. I'm pretty sure it will ruin paint too, but it might be OK for cleaning brushes. It should be illegal to call that stuff "mineral spirits".
 
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