K frame barrel removal?
- Thread starter Holloman
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calaverasslim
Member
Barrel
Based on your simple but clear post, it appears that you have no experience with a job that requires specialized equipment nor knowledge of gunsmithing.
That being said, I would recommend that you take your gun and kit to a qualified gunsmith and have it done.
I have assisted (read watched) a gunsmith friend of mine in several barrel removeals and the job is pretty ez if you know what your doing and have the right gear.
Good luck
Based on your simple but clear post, it appears that you have no experience with a job that requires specialized equipment nor knowledge of gunsmithing.
That being said, I would recommend that you take your gun and kit to a qualified gunsmith and have it done.
I have assisted (read watched) a gunsmith friend of mine in several barrel removeals and the job is pretty ez if you know what your doing and have the right gear.
Good luck
CSA 357
Member
It Wont Cost Alot, And If You Bend The Frame Its Over! Good Luck
I agree that it sounds like you are in over your head. What "kit" do you reference? If you mean the barrel and other parts to transform a longer gun into a 2" model, it would be much cheaper to sell what you have and buy what you want.
Having said that, I did a barrel swap years ago on a K frame that had a bulged barrel. Got the gun for $60 due to the damage and picked up a barrel on ebay for $5 so not much to lose if I messed it up. I swapped a 4" tube for a 5" version so I didn't need to change the ejector rod.
I have no specific gunsmithing experience, but I do have a degree in Industrial Arts so I know my way around a work bench. On a pre-1982 S&W the barrel pin must be driven out and the barrel unscrewed from the frame. It's very easy to bend the frame so I went very slowly and carefully after soaking the gun in penetrating oil to loosen the barrel threads. It turned right off. I was very lucky in that the new one screwed in place with the sight on top and the barrel/cylinder gap at an acceptable level. No fitting required. Drive the pin back in (hardest part for me was getting the little holes lined up).
If the gun is a newer one with no pin and crush fit, for get it. It takes an expert to remove that barrel without ruining the gun.
Like I said, sell the parts, sell the gun, buy what you want.
Having said that, I did a barrel swap years ago on a K frame that had a bulged barrel. Got the gun for $60 due to the damage and picked up a barrel on ebay for $5 so not much to lose if I messed it up. I swapped a 4" tube for a 5" version so I didn't need to change the ejector rod.
I have no specific gunsmithing experience, but I do have a degree in Industrial Arts so I know my way around a work bench. On a pre-1982 S&W the barrel pin must be driven out and the barrel unscrewed from the frame. It's very easy to bend the frame so I went very slowly and carefully after soaking the gun in penetrating oil to loosen the barrel threads. It turned right off. I was very lucky in that the new one screwed in place with the sight on top and the barrel/cylinder gap at an acceptable level. No fitting required. Drive the pin back in (hardest part for me was getting the little holes lined up).
If the gun is a newer one with no pin and crush fit, for get it. It takes an expert to remove that barrel without ruining the gun.
Like I said, sell the parts, sell the gun, buy what you want.
Changing the barrel any any revolver, including and in particular a K-frame S&W is not a screw-it-in, screw-it-in sort of thing, and a mistake will leave you with a bent frame. Also barrels were individually fitted to each frame, and it is improbable that a barrel removed from one gun will fit perfectly on another one. The same can be said about the cylinder, yoke, and some other parts.
Most if not all of these "kits" are made up of parts removed from a revolver, which for whatever reason had to be destroyed. To meet the legal requirements the frame was destroyed after the parts were stripped off. The good folks that sell the kits presume the buyer knows that they can't simply be assembled on to another gun or frame without extensive knowledge, experience and specialized jigs and fixtures - not to mention a machine shop.
Unfortunately buyers always ask questions after they buy the parts, not before. Doing it the other way around could same them a lot of money.
Most if not all of these "kits" are made up of parts removed from a revolver, which for whatever reason had to be destroyed. To meet the legal requirements the frame was destroyed after the parts were stripped off. The good folks that sell the kits presume the buyer knows that they can't simply be assembled on to another gun or frame without extensive knowledge, experience and specialized jigs and fixtures - not to mention a machine shop.
Unfortunately buyers always ask questions after they buy the parts, not before. Doing it the other way around could same them a lot of money.
Man, i'm glad I asked first.
The kit was "a complete model 10, minus the frame". This kit came with a 2" barrel, which I wanted to put on my model 10.
I did notice the cylinder rod length being different, so I knew it wouldnt be easy...
I'll talk to a smith.
Thanks.
The kit was "a complete model 10, minus the frame". This kit came with a 2" barrel, which I wanted to put on my model 10.
I did notice the cylinder rod length being different, so I knew it wouldnt be easy...
I'll talk to a smith.
Thanks.
Before you do anything else, sit down and start with the value of the revolver as it is. Then add in the cost of the parts kit. Next whatever the gunsmith will charge to fit the shorter barrel and other associated parts - and be sure the 'smith is qualified to do the work.
Take the total $$$ for all of this, and see if it might be less expensive to sell the gun you have, and in place of it buy the kind you want.
Take the total $$$ for all of this, and see if it might be less expensive to sell the gun you have, and in place of it buy the kind you want.
JoeG52
Member
Old Fuff speaks wise words. Trade it for one you want, or better yet, keep it AND buy the one you want.
Spartacus451
Member
+1 to Old Fuff. Unless you are trying to create a configuration that is extremely rare or doesn't exist then it rarely makes sense to do a barrel swap.
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