Lee six pack pro opinions

I really appreciate you guys helping me out. So I ran the auto drum cycling the same primed case for what seemed like forever. I removed the decapping/Resizing die and Probably ran the case 25-35 times . I ran it through the expanding/charging station and through the powder cop just to watch it and get a good idea of a visual.

After that I drew up a crude hand drawn spread sheet with a sharpie and a piece of printer paper. I ran the same case through the press 50 times and weighed the powder charge after again running through removing the case at the bullet feeder station. I'm used to weighing all of my powder charges so relying on the autodrum is a little weird to me.

50 cases charged and weighed I found 11 cases were + a tenth gr from my set weight of 4.0gr and 8 were - a tenth gr. None of the powder drops were more than + or - a tenth of a gr. I assume with those results it is dialed in good enough to keep me out of trouble. I will still continue to weigh every 5-10 cases.

I then worked on the bullet feeder setup. I put a decent stack of 124gr 9mm bullets in the tube and adjusted to the point nothing would come out and slowly adjusted until it would drop one bullet as I would expect it to work.

I think I probably spent enough time on this thing in the last 2 days and I should probably call it a day at this point. I did run one case through from start to finish and it came out a complete round. I think I'm getting somewhere now.
 
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Looks like you are making good progress.

50 cases charged and weighed I found 11 cases were + a tenth gr from my set weight of 4.0gr and 8 were - a tenth gr. None of the powder drops were more than + or - a tenth of a gr. I assume with those results it is dialed in good enough
Yes.

FYI, small granule powders can capture enough powder granules inside the flash hole/primer to vary powder charge weight (When I am weighing powder charges, I will tap on the case with finger tip to ensure all the powder granules came out or plug the flash hole)

I then worked on the bullet feeder setup. I put a decent stack of 124gr 9mm bullets in the tube and adjusted to the point nothing would come out and slowly adjusted until it would drop one bullet as I would expect it to work.
Yes.

BTW, your Pro 6000 kit should have shipped with stepped "M" style powder through expander which will help prevent bullet tipping during shellplate indexing and prevent bullet tilting during bullet seating
 
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So it was just a Google search on the lee powder drum itself. I was a bit confused at first and the instructions/directions are not so good. No one ever accused me of being a genius.


I don't want to be that guy that always asks for help especially when the answer should be something that isn't rocket science. I am very happy I belong to THR and I probably belong to several other forums but I can't remember because this is the one I frequent. Thank you for for sharing all of your knowledge and experience I appreciate it.
So, I'm thinking your google search revealed there is no return spring on the Lee Powder Drum as it has an internal spring.
If there is interference with powder check die Lee sells a riser for the powder thru expander die for like $8 at Titan, and I run 2 of them stacked on my piggyback to clear the index linkage.

I hear you on those lame Lee mouse print instructions.
I find the instructions on Lee's or Titan's website, open up the pdf. files and blow them up to something you can actually read.
That and there a lot of youtube vids on the SPP.
Risers(under a Lee disc measure), that mirror is my powder check:
EverythingS.JPG
Good luck moving forward,
.
 
BTW, your Pro 6000 kit should have shipped with stepped "M" style powder through expander which will help prevent bullet tipping during shellplate indexing and prevent bullet tilting during bullet seating

I didn't notice if it was an "M" it came with the 3 die set of breach lock dies. I did notice it flares the case mouth slightly different than my other set of lee 9mm dies. I also use a stand alone taper crimp die.

I will hopefully have a little bit of time tomorrow after work to run some cases through it and see if can get all.the fine details tuned and double checked.
 
So, I'm thinking your google search revealed there is no return spring on the Lee Powder Drum as it has an internal spring.
If there is interference with powder check die Lee sells a riser for the powder thru expander die for like $8 at Titan, and I run 2 of them stacked on my piggyback to clear the index linkage.

I hear you on those lame Lee mouse print instructions.
I find the instructions on Lee's or Titan's website, open up the pdf. files and blow them up to something you can actually read.
That and there a lot of youtube vids on the SPP.
Risers(under a Lee disc measure), that mirror is my powder check

I'm thinking my Google search was trash but luckily it just good enough to spark a fire in my mind. I'm also pretty sure I was interrupted very soon after that video started and didn't watch much of it. More creative thinking got my powder drum mounted without much room to spare. The breach lock system makes it nice when you don't have to thread the entire die into the press. Adjustments are a little tight when trying to run the dies up and down while they are locked into the press though.

The mirror trick is pretty cool. I think I have an old motorcycle mirror somewhere I will have to check now.
 
I'm back to being pissed off at this thing again. I'm seriously trying to understand why it won't just work. I got about 20 rounds loaded in about 2 hours. The priming system is doing weird things again.

The flat plastic slider piece that the metal primer piece connects to is randomly hanging up in the track. I bent the end down a bit so it doesn't snag on the track guide piece. That's the second time I have done that and now it appears to be working again for now.

Second problem is the primers seem to appear to being seated and the upstroke doesn't have a primer in the primer arm like I would expect if it working properly but the it's actually losing the primer but getting jammed up under the shell plate.

I hate to say it buy my confidence level has dropped at this point. I guess I can keep hand priming my cases and skip the first station all together and only use the second station to change cases. That makes total sense on a progressive press.

I don't know know what to do or even if I trust this thing at this point.
 
I'm seriously trying to understand why it won't just work. I got about 20 rounds loaded in about 2 hours. The priming system is doing weird things again.
Disclaimer: Since we don't know what you did to the SPP/Pro 6000 kit during 5-6 hours, we will try to pick up from post #31

The priming system is doing weird things again ... The flat plastic slider piece that the metal primer piece connects to is randomly hanging up in the track. I bent the end down a bit so it doesn't snag on the track guide piece. That's the second time I have done that and now it appears to be working again for now.
What "weird things"?

Primer slider can hang in the "track" or channel/trough due to number of reasons:
  • Spring end hitting the 4 hold down tabs (Your press should have shipped with updated spring with small ends but you can check if spring end is hitting the 4 hold down tabs as slider moves back and forth)
  • Debri in the "track" or channel/trough (Likely powder granules. Primer slider channel/trough is designed to be self-cleaning with cleaning holes along the edge of "track" and in the center. Back and forth movement of slider should drop debri through these holes but if you see debri that's not clearing, you can remove it by hand or blow it off the channel/trough (You can even remove the slider completely to clean the channel/trough but note that there's a protrusion towards the end that you need to lift the slider over)
  • Primer guide that attaches to the end of slider needs to be installed flat with the slider and opening facing towards the primer attachment (Check the end of slider to ensure opening/fingers are not bent/damaged which will hinder smooth sliding of slider)
  • Before primer guide enters station #2, check to ensure top of priming pin/rod dropped down slightly below surface or primer guide could bump up and not enter the station fully (If not, your carrier cover should be updated self-cleaning and simply push up on the priming pin/rod from bottom a few times until debri/powder granules clear from sleeve hole and top of priming pin/rod drops down slightly below flush)
  • If shellplate is not tight (I mentioned this in the "Best Practices ..."), could prevent primer guide from entering station fully.
  • Bent spring could hinder smooth sliding motion of slider by bending and if you cannot return the spring back straight, it needs to be replaced.
  • Slider must be flat and straight. If not, could bind in the channel/trough. If plastic "memory" won't stay flat and straight, slider may need to be replaced.
So check your press/priming system as outlined above to identify the source of your slider "hanging".


Second problem is the primers seem to appear to being seated and the upstroke doesn't have a primer in the primer arm like I would expect if it working properly but the it's actually losing the primer but getting jammed up under the shell plate.
Once again, we don't know what happened up to this point but will go from here with some "assumptions".

Priming system should pick up a primer from the attachment and insert into station #2 but if not seated into a case, primer guide should pull it back and hold the primer and slide back and forth until primer is seated into a case.

First, check to ensure shellplate is not loose (If you spilled any powder or lost primer under the shellplate, I would remove the shellplate and inspect the carrier cover and clean as necessary).

Then check to ensure priming pin/rod is dropping slightly below surface (Priming pin/rod not dropping could prevent primer guide from entering station freely and could tip up guide from slider end and cause primer to flip/go sideways to jam under the shellplate).

Then cycle the ram lever while watching the primer slider/guide/primer to ensure they are sliding smoothly and entering station #2 fully.


my confidence level has dropped at this point. I guess I can keep hand priming my cases and skip the first station all together and only use the second station to change cases.
To build up your confidence again, you need to master/check off each station/process until you can perform them reliably.

Looks like you may have rushed through the stations/processes without fully understanding new press operations and as mistakes/mis-operation/user errors occurred, instead of catching them, they stacked on top of each other causing damage/frustration.

Can you take some pictures of primer slider, spring (especially end that attaches to slider), end of slider where primer guide goes? I want to check whether these parts are proper or need replacement from damage.


Here are some pictures to help (A picture is worth a thousand words, right?):

This is spring end that could snag on 4 hold down tabs (2 shown). As slider moves back and forth, check to see if there's contact between spring end with hold down tabs (Early production black slider shown. Updated grey slider is longer)

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Old and updated primer sliders shown with smaller spring end of grey slider (You can see "self-cleaning" rectangle holes along the channel/trough in addition to the round hole by primer attachment)

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Updated grey primer slider in the extended position (No spring tension) with primer guide ready to pick up a primer

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Shellplate removed for checking for debri under the shellplate

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Top of priming pin/rod slightly below flush

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Primer guide fully inserted into station and top of priming pin/rod pushed up

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You push up through the hole in the channel/trough to replace primer guide. Check end of slider for flaring/damage which could bind/hang up while sliding.

index.php
 
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I will re read this and take some pictures tomorrow after work. It seems like I can test each individual process and get good results. If load a few cases and bullets and try to run it as it should normally be operated from start to finish I get about 3 loaded rounds before something goes wrong. I'm over it tonight i will try again tomorrow with a fresh start.
 
I will re read this and take some pictures tomorrow after work. It seems like I can test each individual process and get good results. If load a few cases and bullets and try to run it as it should normally be operated from start to finish I get about 3 loaded rounds before something goes wrong.
Yes, take it slow and do step by step.

There's no reason to rush things.

Remember? This is "supposed" to be a fun hobby. 😁

I am having lunch with my daughter around noon PST and we are grocery shopping so I can response before noon and after shopping.
 
So as it's been retold so many times, "There are no dumb questions, just the ones you don't ask

True! True! True!

I tell myself this all the time and anyone else who will listen!!!

Stick with it @Waterboy3313! I'm sure when you get your process down (which takes time)! It will be worth it!!!!

Hang in there and God Bless!!!
 
It would really help folks understand the issues you're having if you either post videos or offer more detailed descriptions of what is frustrating you.

I'm well into my second thousand .45ACP on the Pro 6000 and haven't offered any solutions as I haven't encountered the issues you seem to be having
 
It's been a long day. I got home from work and decided to remove the shell plate. I wanted to make sure it was clean and unobstructed. There was a bit of powder and two or three primers wedged into the primer area.

I cleaned all of that up and put the shell plate and the plastic guide ring around the shell plate back in as well as the indexing rod and the bullet feeder die. I cycled the press without cases, primers or bullets several times. Watching everything multiple times.

The plastic slider piece that holds the small or large primer was not moving smoothly it was jerking and hanging up. The spring is the gold spring with two different sized hooks. I removed the plastic slider as well as the metal primer holder and inspected the metal track it rides in/on.

I used a Q tip with some brake cleaner on it to clean the metal surface. I also used some metal polish on a Qtip to polish the track a little bit. I didn't go crazy and make it look like chrome but I did make it a little more slick and clean. Right or wrong I did it anyway.

I installed the plastic slider and the primer holder and noticed it operated smoothly up until the last point. The last little tap on top of the track that holds it down was a hang up point. With the handle all the way down on the press and the slider not fully above the primer pin I could press down on the plastic slider where the round end connects to the metal primer holder and it would snap into place.

I removed everything from the priming system and inspected again. I noticed several possible hangup points. The plastic end with the round Simi circle seemed slightly raised and probably the biggest and real problem. The metal primer holder had some rough edges like it got nicked jamming into something.

I pulled out some 2000 grit sand paper and a 1 inch thick sheet of glass. I removed a very small and almost un noticeable amount material off the end of the plastic slider and slightly tapered it to avoid Hangups. I also ran the metal primer holder over the paper with an X pattern to make sure it was flat and also polished the bottom surface to fight resistance.

Call me stupid, crazy or whatever you would like but my primer setup seems to run like a well oiled machine without the use of oil. I ran a total of 10 cases through the press and came out with 10 loaded rounds that at least have consistent OAL measurements.
 
Perfect example of the difference between us and the apes. We analyze and test......repeat.....until we succeed in improving our tools and thus our lives every day. A few collage campuses this week has me worried that some are reverting back. ;) Congratulations on your success! The press really is a capable tool......just needs intelligence and patience added.

Lee really has made the reloading hobby accessible for all.....now with fewer limitations than ever before! Not only an impressive press for the money, an impressive press period!
 
I will admit the older I get the more short on patience I get. Life is busy with work, family and life. I am easily frustrated and that is probably my downside. I constantly have have things to do and feel like there just isn't enough time in the day.

I think the reason I thought a progressive setup would be good is because I was hoping it would cut down my loading time and make that time more available for other important things. It is proving to be a little bit on the stressful side.

I pull the handle slow as slow probably can go. I am checking the primer feeder making sure there is a primer going into a case and the arm is empty coming out, the powder system is moving when and where it should, the powder cop die is showing a charge has been dumped and tryingto visually verify the powder in the case, the bullet feeder is dropping one and only one bullet when its supposed to be etc, etc, etc.

Is there a point where your brain gets used to this and can multi task enough to not feel hyper sensitive to every little thing? I'm still a little nervous about this thing.
 
For me progressives were the last option......was about to give it all up due to arthritis pain......just too many strokes on my Rock Chucker. But multitasking for me had to be simplified, and my setup was not simple. Feeders are the answer to finally get there, and Lee's tube and shaker ones just wasn't enough for me.

I picked a progressive that wasn't ready for real (electric) case or bullet feeders, (RCBS Pro 2000). I had to manually feed both cases and bullets. Those steps plus priming and powder charge and seating and crimping too, was just too many things to juggle......and I made mistakes trying to. Jmorris kept telling me that electric case and bullet feeding was the only good way to use a progressive, and I resisted for a couple of months, then finally bought a Hornady pistol bullet feeder, and created a homemade case feeder......and it made a huge difference. So then I could focus on the two important things primers and powder and the press did the rest......at least for pistol.

Then jmorris, introduced me to 3D printers with his early posts on them. And Ed Dwan showed me great options to buy, and introduced me to TylerR and his CastBoolit thread contributions. That made all the difference, as I soon was able to make electric collators and bullet collators for both pistol and rifle.....for about $60 a piece. (not counting the cost of the printer, of course, but that one pricey expenditure keeps on giving..... yes, I'm up to 5 collators now and still printing.) Once progressive loading is simplified to only having to watch and worry about primers and powder charge, it started being fun again.....needing just a fraction of the press strokes that be hard on old farts like me. ;) Younger guys may juggle better, but I can't.
 
I gave up on my 3d printer about a year ago. I made some neat stuff I copied off the internet. I never was good.at designing my own stuff. There was nothing like a 24 hour print failing several hours after it started.

My problems come down to time and one new health issue. I recently found out I have 3 blood clots on my left leg. I am not supposed to sit much but I can stand and walk around as long as I don't over do it. I built my reloading bench tall so I can stand in front of it. After working all day I come home in some pain in my leg. Definitely doesn't help me focus on doing what I want to do. It actually has put me in a funk that has me a little stressed out. It just reminds me Im getting older and starting to get pay the price for all of the things in the past.
 
You don't have to design your own stuff...... This is Tyler R's stuff which is free......
Like this 9mm case collator in test mode going way faster than I use it when loading.....

A little slower feeding into the Lee 6000......

Below...my first test on the 6000 making the very first 9mm round on the press.....case was just dropped in the tube (not yet connected to the collator, but the bullet feeder was done and fed perfectly.....yes if you carefully watch in full screen mode you'll see it is full of powder......ended up loading 99 more that day.....just had to carefully test the first one. ;) I mean it was a brand new press, didn't know much about it....so went slow at first.


Collators, feeder dies were TylerR's available on the CastBoolit thread.........stl files for parts connecting to the 6000 are mine.....but they are available in one of my old posts here on THR for anybody interested.
 
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That's pretty cool. I think that's a little more involved than I want to be though. I would imagine printing some of those parts took 24+ hours. The only thing it's missing is a motor to run the operating handle.

If I can keep mine doing what it did last night I would be happy. I'm sure with time I will get a feel for it and know what I should be watching at what time.

A friend of mine has been talking about getting into reloading for the last few years and has zero experience. He bought a Dillon 750 and hasn't opened the box yet. I tried to talk him into a simple single stage but he wouldn't listen. I couldn't imagine not knowing anything and jumping into a progressive setup. Sounds like recipe for trouble.
 
A friend of mine has been talking about getting into reloading for the last few years and has zero experience. He bought a Dillon 750 and hasn't opened the box yet. I tried to talk him into a simple single stage but he wouldn't listen. I couldn't imagine not knowing anything and jumping into a progressive setup. Sounds like recipe for trouble.
Depends on the resources available to him

I'm finally getting a friend into reloading, because he got tired of not being able to buy on-line. We evaluated his goals and interest levels and we settled on his first press being a progressive. He was considering the Dillon 750 and the Hornady LNL, but we figured the Lee 6000 really met his needs better...I've had all three presses on my bench so there isn't any brand bias.

Granted he's lucky that he has me to introduce him to the process. It's easier to learn on the LNL due to it's larger frame window and room around the die platform. but that's just for introduction before I get him working on his own Pro 6000...the advantages shared between the LNLN and Pro is the ability to easily install and remove dies during the learning process. It is also easier with the Lee's reliable priming system
 
That's pretty cool. I think that's a little more involved than I want to be though. I would imagine printing some of those parts took 24+ hours. The only thing it's missing is a motor to run the operating handle.

If I can keep mine doing what it did last night I would be happy. I'm sure with time I will get a feel for it and know what I should be watching at what time.

A friend of mine has been talking about getting into reloading for the last few years and has zero experience. He bought a Dillon 750 and hasn't opened the box yet. I tried to talk him into a simple single stage but he wouldn't listen. I couldn't imagine not knowing anything and jumping into a progressive setup. Sounds like recipe for trouble.
Have your friend open that 750 box, pull out the manual, and tell you how many pages that manual has.
Compare that to your 6-pack manual (I'm thinking 4 pages max), and you will see how setting up that Dillion will go...
jmo,
.
 
Have your friend open that 750 box, pull out the manual, and tell you how many pages that manual has.
Compare that to your 6-pack manual (I'm thinking 4 pages max), and you will see how setting up that Dillion will go...
jmo,
.
If it's anything like the 650 manual, he may need another year before he finishes that tome and actually uses the press.;) The RCBS Pro 2000 manual was maybe a 1/4 of the Dillon manual.....but it was enough. The Pro Chucker manual? Can't recall.....must not have read it....at all. :uhoh:

The Lee 6000 manual was a breath of fresh air......but then I have the advantage of having some experience with progressives......I might have panicked had it been my first one.......sorta like the O.P. understandably did on his first day.

I noticed with my first Lee press, the APP, that it helped to read the instruction (folder) several times and more carefully each time.....and the accessory kit instruction sheets the same way. The swager kit instruction sheet NEEDS a careful reading.....or two. (Pay attention to details) But once understood it's now my go-to swager over the bench swager I have. (its the case feeder) :)
 
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I didn't have much time after work today tondo much of anything I wanted to do. I did manage to load 30 rounds of 9mm though. I had one problem that was an obvious me problem that was easy to fix with the bullet feeder. Like I said my fault.

Discovered that I noticed an unnerving sound somewhere in the beginning. It almost sounded like a popping or a breaking sound of some kind. I noticed it again today. I originally thought it might have been the primer slider binding up in the track. I discovered it is the pin that shakes the primer feeder when it hits the 2 grooves in upright support.

All in all for a short amount of time I learned something as well as loaded some rounds. I will call this a successful but short day.
 
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