Let’s talk .45 ACP target loads.! (Load report)

I use true blue with 230TC cast #2 loaded to 860 fps - only load that will print. W231 also but TB seems to do better in my colt gov. FMJ doesn't group as well in my 1911.

I tried some lower power rounds w 231 but bullets dont stay together. May just be my gun some shoot some don't.
 
It does not.... either 4" pistol.

I'm not debating it... it's just my experience. :confused:

Having thought about this a bit... I wonder...

WST is reverse temperature sensitive... I shoot a lot in the desert, and mostly during the summer, where I've recorded temps as high as 118F. There may be something to that...
 
Having thought about this a bit... I wonder...

WST is reverse temperature sensitive... I shoot a lot in the desert, and mostly during the summer, where I've recorded temps as high as 118F. There may be something to that...
I doubt it. I shoot 4.6gr WST under a 200gr LSWC (soft cast) here in Florida in 110F and it cycles my Springfield UltraCarry. Pretty darn accurate for a shorty 1911, too.

It’s just how some guns are. The Browning pattern 1911’s are pretty good with any kind of ammo you want to feed them; as long as it’s a 230gr FMJ-RN at 750fps. 😉
 
I can give you another example: Ramshot Competition.
I found a load for Competition thanks to @bigpower491 that works great in all of my .45’s except one - a Thompson/Auto Ordnance 1911A1. The same 200gr load that ran perfectly in an old Remington-Rand stove piped, FTE’d, and generally ran crappy. After some examination I found the extractor was worn. After decades of perfect functioning with Red Dot, Bullseye, No.5, and 700X, it took a target/light load of Competition to show up the weak extraction. Replaced the extractor and it is working fine with the same loads every other gun runs on.

Sometimes it is just something you take for granted will always work.
 
Here’s a test with a stock 5” 1911 seeing how low I could go and cycle. It doesn’t take a lot to cycle a stock 5” 1911.

Shorten it with stouter springs and all bets are off. Different guns, all bets are off, especially short barreled ones.

 
I have found that fast burn powders will cycle guns at a lower velocity than a med burn powder. The fast powder peaks sooner sealing off at the chamber where a med powder may not seal..

I need go go look at some of my notes. I've run WST down pretty low but I think I stopped when the velocity was around 600 fps. My Custom BE 1911 still functioning with std springs.

On 1911 the FP stop (and hammer spring) has a big influence on slide speed. If you have the std radius FPS with the large radius it easier vs a small radius. Small radius is great when your trying to control hot loads.

My Kimber Ultra carry II has problems with sub 725 fps loads. Anything above that no problem, if I grip the gun tight enough. I've updated mine to the Small Radius FPS since I shoot mainly full power defensive loads in that gun. Mine has the dual RS setup. These small springs give up strength pretty quick. After 1500 rounds the 18 lb springs are down to 14 lb. Kimber tells you to replace the outer one at 1500 then both at 3k. I replace them both at 1500 to keep from beating the Al frame gun up.
 
Shorten it with stouter springs and all bets are off. Different guns, all bets are off, especially short barreled ones.
This might be the entire problem with the 4" Kimber. It has a 20# recoil spring. My 3" Kimber has an 18# recoil spring, but runs pretty good with everything I've fed it except for a box of Herters that didn't want to chamber. My favorite load for the 3" gun is 4.7gr of W231 with a 185gr swc. Runs great, and I could go lower, and I have, but I've settled on this load for reliable cycling. I would have to check my notes but I think I went as low as 4.4gr before cycling became erratic.

Of course, every gun is different.

chris
 
My Kimber Ultra carry II has problems with sub 725 fps loads. Anything above that no problem, if I grip the gun tight enough. I've updated mine to the Small Radius FPS since I shoot mainly full power defensive loads in that gun. Mine has the dual RS setup. These small springs give up strength pretty quick. After 1500 rounds the 18 lb springs are down to 14 lb. Kimber tells you to replace the outer one at 1500 then both at 3k. I replace them both at 1500 to keep from beating the Al frame gun up.

Have you resprung yours?

This might be the entire problem with the 4" Kimber. It has a 20# recoil spring.

Actually, the 4" Kimbers have a 22# spring, which I change religiously. Kimber's change interval for the 4" .45 is 800 rounds, and I usually swap mine out between 500-600 rounds, or just when I tear it down for a good cleaning. Part of that is, like Blue mentions, one of my 4"ers is an alloy frame Pro Carry (not a II.) The WST loads, with 200grn bullets, are intended primarily for that pistol, not my stainless Pro Eclipse II, to spare it the battering of the full-house 230grn Unique loads the Eclipse normally gets. I'm not kidding when I say the WST loads were like shooting my Buckmark. I will also say that OAL... seating depth... has a LOT to do with how WST performs. I tend to load my bullets a little long, and that certainly has something to do with it. YMMV, need not be present to win, do not fold, bend, spindle, or mutilate.
 
Actually, the 4" Kimbers have a 22# spring
I wasn't sure if it was 20# or 22# so I checked Kimber's website and it shows 20# replacements, but either way that is a lot of spring.

The Ultra has two recoil springs. I change mine out on the 3" Ultra around 1.5K rounds, and do the inner spring every other change. I also run a small radius firing pin stop, and have seen no appreciable wear after about 12K rounds with an alloy frame.

And I just looked at their online manual, and it does show a 22# recoil spring. That just seems insane to me since the shorter gun uses a lighter spring, but it does use two springs so that may make sense. I guess I'm not an engineer, lol!

chris
 
I’m getting a whole set of recoil springs!!! Cheap too, even the good brand
 
I wasn't sure if it was 20# or 22# so I checked Kimber's website and it shows 20# replacements, but either way that is a lot of spring.

Yes, the Kimber 4" spring is proprietary... generic 'Colt' springs don't work... ask me how I know.

May be cheaper to buy from Wolff directly.

That's where I get mine. For some reason, Wolff doesn't make springs for the Kahr... :(
 
Yes, the Kimber 4" spring is proprietary... generic 'Colt' springs don't work... ask me how I know.



That's where I get mine. For some reason, Wolff doesn't make springs for the Kahr... :(
I didn’t know that. I’ve never had a Kahr so I wouldn’t have been looking but this is the first production handgun I’ve heard of Wolff not making springs for.
For the 1911 and other Browning pattern pistols I buy the tuning kits and find the spring that works best with my guns and loads. They’re cheap enough and I have yet to regret having extra springs on hand.
 
I didn’t know that. I’ve never had a Kahr so I wouldn’t have been looking but this is the first production handgun I’ve heard of Wolff not making springs for.
For the 1911 and other Browning pattern pistols I buy the tuning kits and find the spring that works best with my guns and loads. They’re cheap enough and I have yet to regret having extra springs on hand.

I always go on to Wolff hoping I'll see Kahr springs... but I never do. I suppose I could email them and axe why...

Because of how I run my pistols, the factory # always works for me... but I'll bet one of the tuning packs would be handy to have... :thumbup:
 
Yes, the Kimber 4" spring is proprietary... generic 'Colt' springs don't work... ask me how I know.
I can get the 3" springs from Wolff, but I can't reduce the spring rate. If I want a softer spring I have to shoot it until it wears out. I can get a 21# spring, but don't know if I would be able to rack the slide. I like my Kimbers, but it would be nice if I could get a tuning kit.

chris
 
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