Leveling optic cross hairs

Status
Not open for further replies.
I use my eyes to level optic cross hairs. They are far more remarkable tool that a bubble level.

I have a Wheeler level ^3 and up still usually eyeball my reticles. For my shooting it works great.

It all depends on the type of shooting you are doing. I want hunting accuracy at normal hunting distances (300 yds or less).

Precision and longer distance rifle shooters would be more interested in a precise and repeatable scope leveling system. Hence the spirit level incorporated into the sighting system.
 
I clamp the barrel in a barrel vice, chucked in a vice, level the gun, then use a hanging rope with a weight on it like a plumb bob the align the cross hairs.Not all scope caps are aligned with the cross hairs, not all flats on the bottom of scopes are aligned with the cross hairs. Not all levels read the same, and you need one that reads the same no matter which direction it is set (Set it in front of you and see where the bubble is, then turn it 180 degrees and see if the bubble sits in the exact same spot, many levels fail this.)
 

Attachments

  • DSC01899.JPG
    DSC01899.JPG
    219.1 KB · Views: 78
  • IMG_3107.JPG
    IMG_3107.JPG
    75 KB · Views: 23
  • 20191206_154807.jpg
    20191206_154807.jpg
    48.3 KB · Views: 22
  • DSC01895.JPG
    DSC01895.JPG
    287.6 KB · Views: 22
It all depends on the type of shooting you are doing. I want hunting accuracy at normal hunting distances (300 yds or less).

Precision and longer distance rifle shooters would be more interested in a precise and repeatable scope leveling system. Hence the spirit level incorporated into the sighting system.

This is very true.

I would just use levels on the rifle and scope and call it good on my hunting rifles years ago. Now that I do more precision shooting I make sure level everything up perfectly along with using scope mounted levels when shooting. Most of may shooting now days is with 22LR so I want the reticle and rifle as level as possible when shooting out to 250-300 yards.

Varminterror's method works just as well as other methods. With his method, the scope , mount and reticle are leveled first. And this method works well for installing a scope mounted level too. I have leveled scopes this way too.

As mentioned, the quality of the levels makes a difference too. And that is also why a plumb bob, store bought or home made, works very well of aligning the reticle.
 
Last edited:
I use that Wheeler bubble level set but only the part that mounts to the rifle. A LOT of scopes have reticles that aren't level with the turrets so I don't like to level the turret.

Basically, find a flat spot on the rifle, level it in a rest of some sort, then hang a makeshift plumbob (I just use some orange string tied to a fishing weight) from something with a white background. Align the vertical reticle line with the string.

For rifles with no flat spot to get a base level off if you can take a regular bubble level held vertically and make sure that the two screw holes on the buttstock are level, but results may vary there as that's not always whats level with the action. Typically I've only had this issue with a few single shots - you can almost always find a good flat on a bolt action along the rails.
 
For rifles without any flat spot, I will either use the method that Varminterror showed or I'll level up the rife using the ring mounts. When I use the ring mounts I also use a level that clamps to the barrel. I use the level on the mounts to get the rifle level then attach the barrel mounted level to match.

No matter which method you use, verify that the reticle is level with a plumb bob. The plumb bob can be store bought or home made.
 
I recently bought an EXD engineering scope verticle leveling Instrument from Brownells. I saw it on another forum. It is pretty slick. It aligns the centerline of the scope with the centerline of the bore and has a level as well. So it is simple to make sure the scope and bore are aligned on a vertical plane. You still have to rotate the scope to level with a plumb line which is the easy part. Someone else sell a similar device that looks good too. You don't have to find a flat square part on the gun or scope to use it or use multiple levels.
 
The other device I wish I'd found first is the Level Right Pro at RealAvid. It works like the EXD device but has a couple improvements. Either device will save you time and headaches. You don't need to level mounts because it aligns the bore centerline with the scope centerline and show when they are level.
 
No matter which method you use, verify that the reticle is level with a plumb bob. The plumb bob can be store bought or home made.
Or an old ball-peen hammer head on a rope hanging from a step ladder? :)
index.php
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top